Scaffolding poles + old VW bits + Rotary engine....
Discussion
I'm beginning to regret this suspension, finding springs is being a complete nightmare, I think it's going to end up on 4 different springs on each corner just to use the travel whilst still having the right rates at the rear and not having it change spring rates right at the intended ride height (which is not a good thing for stability, or driver confidence either )
But, it's sunny, so I've thrown all the spring catalogues in a heap and sat outside with a pint instead, maybe the fairies will fix it.
But, it's sunny, so I've thrown all the spring catalogues in a heap and sat outside with a pint instead, maybe the fairies will fix it.
Yep, nice low rpms for plenty of airflow without too much heat, which is the usual Eaton problem, it's why an M112 was stuck in there even though a '90 or even an overspun MP62 might have managed it.
Plus, plenty of headroom
Those paneling fairies also make oil and water header tanks to fit in tight spaces, nice of them:
Plus, plenty of headroom
Those paneling fairies also make oil and water header tanks to fit in tight spaces, nice of them:
Air you still mounting the intercooler in a V with the main rad? will you pull air through the intercooler (out the top of the car) or let air come in through the intercooler, maybe with a scoop?
Think you should make some mounting brackets for the Honda engined lotus guys. They seem to love spinning the bks off little M62s to make boost!
Think you should make some mounting brackets for the Honda engined lotus guys. They seem to love spinning the bks off little M62s to make boost!
Intercooler will have it's own scoop, on top of the existing roof scoop. Scoop on a scoop
That way the radiator fans can be switched on at the start line to pull air through and keep the charge temperatures down while the launch control is running and it the slow technical sections.
I think you'd want to make a short snout version for wedging in the elise though!
That way the radiator fans can be switched on at the start line to pull air through and keep the charge temperatures down while the launch control is running and it the slow technical sections.
I think you'd want to make a short snout version for wedging in the elise though!
Edited by PhillipM on Thursday 6th June 00:43
Wiring fairies aren't very fast though, only just finished the engine bay wiring. Bah. Taking ages, and still got the main connector to put on and the rear lights (once we've made a bonnet).
Although in my defence I did modify a few crimp tools as I wasn't happy with the quality of the crimp, now you can swing off them
On the other hand, all the connectors are on, everything is sealed and lubed, every wire has strain relief loops before terminations (so does the main loom before the bulkhead connectors, etc), and has the heatshrink over those bonded on with polyurethane to make sure the insulation takes any strain rather than the conductor even if it gets some serious abuse. Which, lets face it, is bound to happen when we end up taking something off with a hammer
The whole lot is shielded from EMI, and has heat reflective foil under an abrasion resistant braiding, and any connectors that didn't originally have seals I've made some for using some high-temp silicone and some creative use of heatshrink for moulds
Basically, made it as bulletproof and ham-fisted-idiot-proof as possible, so should last a few years, even if we keep up our normal routine and end up unplugging it every week to fix something
Still, only the dash loom, cabin loom and the forward loom for the PAS/horn/battery/fuel pump, etc, to go.....anyone want a job?
Although in my defence I did modify a few crimp tools as I wasn't happy with the quality of the crimp, now you can swing off them
On the other hand, all the connectors are on, everything is sealed and lubed, every wire has strain relief loops before terminations (so does the main loom before the bulkhead connectors, etc), and has the heatshrink over those bonded on with polyurethane to make sure the insulation takes any strain rather than the conductor even if it gets some serious abuse. Which, lets face it, is bound to happen when we end up taking something off with a hammer
The whole lot is shielded from EMI, and has heat reflective foil under an abrasion resistant braiding, and any connectors that didn't originally have seals I've made some for using some high-temp silicone and some creative use of heatshrink for moulds
Basically, made it as bulletproof and ham-fisted-idiot-proof as possible, so should last a few years, even if we keep up our normal routine and end up unplugging it every week to fix something
Still, only the dash loom, cabin loom and the forward loom for the PAS/horn/battery/fuel pump, etc, to go.....anyone want a job?
Edited by PhillipM on Saturday 15th June 20:45
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff