The Cobra Adventure
Discussion
After doing 200 miles in it over the weekend, I've decided it could be even better.
The steering is very direct but the column at the steering wheel moves about 1mm in all directions, which gives a horrible disconnected feeling. Most classics have this kind of float, due to rubber bushes and not overly tight tolerances.
So I've stripped the upper column out of the car. on measuring, I think I can get some proper needle bearings in there.
I've ordered some press on inner races and correctly sized needle bearings to try.
Sadly I've not got enough room to get some conical bearings in there, so I will have to just use tension to stop thrust movement in the shaft, but that shouldn't add any more weight to the unassisted steering.
Its also time for me to accept my temporary placement of the wideband 02 sensor in the cylinder 1 manifold branch, is no longer good enough for fine engine tuning. So I'll be adding a boss onto my 4-1 collector to hopefully give me that extra level of accuracy for part throttle tuning.
I've also noticed my belt run is being dragged off line by the alternator pulley, so I'll be shimming the alternator to get that perfect too. Good job its raining this weekend!
The steering is very direct but the column at the steering wheel moves about 1mm in all directions, which gives a horrible disconnected feeling. Most classics have this kind of float, due to rubber bushes and not overly tight tolerances.
So I've stripped the upper column out of the car. on measuring, I think I can get some proper needle bearings in there.
I've ordered some press on inner races and correctly sized needle bearings to try.
Sadly I've not got enough room to get some conical bearings in there, so I will have to just use tension to stop thrust movement in the shaft, but that shouldn't add any more weight to the unassisted steering.
Its also time for me to accept my temporary placement of the wideband 02 sensor in the cylinder 1 manifold branch, is no longer good enough for fine engine tuning. So I'll be adding a boss onto my 4-1 collector to hopefully give me that extra level of accuracy for part throttle tuning.
I've also noticed my belt run is being dragged off line by the alternator pulley, so I'll be shimming the alternator to get that perfect too. Good job its raining this weekend!
wilksy61 said:
The steering is very direct but the column at the steering wheel moves about 1mm in all directions, which gives a horrible disconnected feeling. Most classics have this kind of float, due to rubber bushes and not overly tight tolerances.
I made this for my Lenham for exactly the reason you have described, I bored out the original column mount to basically make it round and then made a PTFE headed bush to fit the column bush and steering shaft, worked very well, no rattle or shake.
Nice neat solution. I made this for my Lenham for exactly the reason you have described, I bored out the original column mount to basically make it round and then made a PTFE headed bush to fit the column bush and steering shaft, worked very well, no rattle or shake.
Sadly my column isn't really that well machined tolerance measured in mm not thou(!). So I'll have to press the nice flat round races on and hope they stay flat and round.
In an ideal word I'd get a new collapsible upper column made with somewhere for the brarings to go!
Happy Jim said:
Although not "original" you might want to consider power steering, it made a massive difference on mine when doing the Alps/Track Days etc
Regards
Jim
I've got used to the heaviness now, its just the column which is doing my head in. Regards
Jim
I know what I'd need for a PAS system, but I'm sure it'd just highlight another issue down the line!
My bearings came. They don’t fit though. Neither the column or the surround is round, so unless I epoxy them in, it isn’t happening. Will have a rethink.
Sorted the steering, had a brain wave to use set screws to make the bearing captive.
Steering now has zero play!
Sorted the steering, had a brain wave to use set screws to make the bearing captive.
Steering now has zero play!
Edited by Waitey on Monday 19th June 10:59
No room for it to be anywhere else.
They have to be mounted in the flow so I can't get away with one of the 90degree adapters. The adaptors are fine for a gauge but not for one the ECU is using to build a map.
You also can't mount them below 10deg above the 90 degree point or condensation knackers them.
So I was pretty limited to where it goes.
They have to be mounted in the flow so I can't get away with one of the 90degree adapters. The adaptors are fine for a gauge but not for one the ECU is using to build a map.
You also can't mount them below 10deg above the 90 degree point or condensation knackers them.
So I was pretty limited to where it goes.
Edited by Waitey on Tuesday 22 June 16:54
Struggling to get this running spot on. Seems to struggle with AFR's at idle and just after idle once hot.
So took the tune off it along with a data log from a good 30 min drive.
Everything looks fine bar not wanting to meet AFR targets.
So I go through all my individual parameters. Only one doesn't make sense. This thing makes a lot of vacuum. Way more than it should with the cam its got.
In the engine bay, off the brake booster, to the TB another little line disappears off into the car. After a lot of pissing about, I follow it through to the rear.
Guess what there is......
A bloody vacuum pump, fine on a carb, but will totally f**k with a ECU which relies on a accurate MAP signal.
Stripped it all out.
Junked the old map out of the ECU as the pump will have wrecked the calibration.
Just on with making a new base map now.
So took the tune off it along with a data log from a good 30 min drive.
Everything looks fine bar not wanting to meet AFR targets.
So I go through all my individual parameters. Only one doesn't make sense. This thing makes a lot of vacuum. Way more than it should with the cam its got.
In the engine bay, off the brake booster, to the TB another little line disappears off into the car. After a lot of pissing about, I follow it through to the rear.
Guess what there is......
A bloody vacuum pump, fine on a carb, but will totally f**k with a ECU which relies on a accurate MAP signal.
Stripped it all out.
Junked the old map out of the ECU as the pump will have wrecked the calibration.
Just on with making a new base map now.
Edited by Waitey on Monday 19th June 11:05
Since I now have a bigger lack of trust in all the work done in the past to this car, after the brake issues and hidden vacuum pump fun, I decided to check even the most basic of basic stuff with this..
Today task was timing. Since I'm relatively young.. timing to me, is cam and crank sensors and pressing page up on a ECU table to change it.
Dizzy's and timing lights are new to me.
So I bought one!
Ford Windsors have an odd firing order
Which is what gives them their destinctive sound.
Anyway, I watched a youtube video of setting timing on a Ford Windsor then set about checking and changing mine.
I spoke to Smeding Performance who built the engine and they recommend 16deg static timing advancing to 32deg.
And.....
Mine was set to 25deg static, over 40(!)deg advance.
Timing was easy to reset though and it runs far better!
Today task was timing. Since I'm relatively young.. timing to me, is cam and crank sensors and pressing page up on a ECU table to change it.
Dizzy's and timing lights are new to me.
So I bought one!
Ford Windsors have an odd firing order
Which is what gives them their destinctive sound.
Anyway, I watched a youtube video of setting timing on a Ford Windsor then set about checking and changing mine.
I spoke to Smeding Performance who built the engine and they recommend 16deg static timing advancing to 32deg.
And.....
Mine was set to 25deg static, over 40(!)deg advance.
Timing was easy to reset though and it runs far better!
samoht said:
It must be very satisfying to get the engine fuelling properly and running nicely.
Do you think the tyres might be a bit old and hard, or is it just that light and powerful that full throttle in second isn't realistic?
Looks great in that pic too.
The tyres are 7 years old. So getting on a bit. Do you think the tyres might be a bit old and hard, or is it just that light and powerful that full throttle in second isn't realistic?
Looks great in that pic too.
They’ve never really seen UV though so they are in very good nick.
They are on the list to be changed next year though for some CR Avon’s with the classic style tread.
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