1999 Honda S2000 JDM
Discussion
nebpor said:
That's a shame! I (along with many others) fitted AP Racing clutches to our DC2s - they had a nice bite, were just as nicely sprung as stock, but coped better with trackdays ... was pretty much OEM price as well
Interesting… I’ll have google for the S2000 equivalent. Is that still a single plate? Where did you get it from?Thanks for looking, my googling also ended up in the same AP twin plate hole. Think that’s overly complex for my son’s car so we will keep it simple.
As of this afternoon the box is now out, it’s all in the technique to get it past the manifold! Small subframe drop, including disconnecting the rack was the magic method.
The clutch friction disc itself isn’t too worn, but as expected the sleeve the release bearing slides on was completely chewed. The release bearing and pressure plate look well past their best.
I guess last time it had ‘a clutch’ it literally just had a new friction disc.
I think our clutch slip may have been the release bearing sticking on the sleeve and holding the clutch open. New three piece clutch will be going back in, probably OE as other than something like AP I don’t trust anything else!
Box will now be heading off for a rebuild once the box of Honda bearings and things turn up from Japan.
Slowly but surely getting there!
As of this afternoon the box is now out, it’s all in the technique to get it past the manifold! Small subframe drop, including disconnecting the rack was the magic method.
The clutch friction disc itself isn’t too worn, but as expected the sleeve the release bearing slides on was completely chewed. The release bearing and pressure plate look well past their best.
I guess last time it had ‘a clutch’ it literally just had a new friction disc.
I think our clutch slip may have been the release bearing sticking on the sleeve and holding the clutch open. New three piece clutch will be going back in, probably OE as other than something like AP I don’t trust anything else!
Box will now be heading off for a rebuild once the box of Honda bearings and things turn up from Japan.
Slowly but surely getting there!
Box is now well and truly apart thanks to a local S2000 forum member who does these things for fun and showing wear in all the expected places.
A full set of new Honda bearings is going on together with sorting the 2nd gear synchro.
Should be super crisp
(I hope!)
New OEM clutch has arrived so just need a set of the outer mounting bolts and that can go on.
A full set of new Honda bearings is going on together with sorting the 2nd gear synchro.
Should be super crisp
(I hope!) New OEM clutch has arrived so just need a set of the outer mounting bolts and that can go on.
Clutch is on with new mounting bolts, the kind chap that did the box lent us an old input shaft as an alignment tool so that saved loads of hassle.
…and I’ve also fitted the ‘precious one’ also known as an OE engine mount. Theft pricing, but that’s what you get for a bespoke part on a (relatively) low volume car I suppose.
The old one had torn and dropped its liquid guts.
My Son collected the box from Warrington last night (in his MX5!) so that’s ready to go on, maybe this weekend
Had a fun afternoon putting the box back on today. One of the alternator bolts took 1.5 hours…
That wasn’t the worst one, that’s the top starter bolt. I’ve never used over a metre of 3/8 extensions to get one bolt in before!
Think this new release bearing guide might be better than the old one!
The position of choice for the subframe is a 3” drop at the back and a gentle tilt of the engine with a jack on the sump. Like this you can get to all the bolts and slide the box on with relative ease with a trolley jack under the middle.
Hope to get it running again this weekend and fingers crossed it all works!
That wasn’t the worst one, that’s the top starter bolt. I’ve never used over a metre of 3/8 extensions to get one bolt in before!
Think this new release bearing guide might be better than the old one!
The position of choice for the subframe is a 3” drop at the back and a gentle tilt of the engine with a jack on the sump. Like this you can get to all the bolts and slide the box on with relative ease with a trolley jack under the middle.
Hope to get it running again this weekend and fingers crossed it all works!
I feel your pain! The starter bolt is completely inaccessible and invisible, so it’s stabbing in the dark until you find it.
I’m not surprised you found a few loose bolts, I’ve found the same on the Honda. The box has been out before and I can see how a mechanic working under time pressure would just say f’it I’m done. The bottom alternator bolt wasn’t done up and the manifold support to block was missing.
I’ve been through the car now end to end and all the bolts are now present and correct and done up!
A new serpentine belt is arriving Saturday then I can put the front end and intake back together.
I’m not surprised you found a few loose bolts, I’ve found the same on the Honda. The box has been out before and I can see how a mechanic working under time pressure would just say f’it I’m done. The bottom alternator bolt wasn’t done up and the manifold support to block was missing.
I’ve been through the car now end to end and all the bolts are now present and correct and done up!
A new serpentine belt is arriving Saturday then I can put the front end and intake back together.
It took a couple of attempts, but we finally have a sweet gearshift and a non slipping clutch!
There was an horrendous rattling noise on our first drive out this morning, disappeared when you dipped the clutch, worry being I’d done something badly wrong on the installation. Then the clutch slipped…
Turned out the noise was the hydraulic pipe from the master to slave resonating on the inlet manifold…
The slipping clutch was the pedal adjustment having no free play, so the clutch was effectively slightly pressed the whole time. No excuse, just forgot to check it after the replacement.
10 minutes under the car and another 10 in the footwell and finally we have all gears, all synchros and that deeply satisfying feeling when you can heal and toe downshift to 2nd at 60mph (and 9000 rpm) and it snicks neatly in.
We stopped off at a local disused petrol station for a few pics. Great location for when I get the 911 back up and running
There was an horrendous rattling noise on our first drive out this morning, disappeared when you dipped the clutch, worry being I’d done something badly wrong on the installation. Then the clutch slipped…
Turned out the noise was the hydraulic pipe from the master to slave resonating on the inlet manifold…
The slipping clutch was the pedal adjustment having no free play, so the clutch was effectively slightly pressed the whole time. No excuse, just forgot to check it after the replacement.
10 minutes under the car and another 10 in the footwell and finally we have all gears, all synchros and that deeply satisfying feeling when you can heal and toe downshift to 2nd at 60mph (and 9000 rpm) and it snicks neatly in.
We stopped off at a local disused petrol station for a few pics. Great location for when I get the 911 back up and running
Final job before going to storage was to inject the sill and arch cavities. Grim work and it’s now literally dripping brown from every hole
Now we have to work out where all the grommets we pulled out go back
I’ll be doing this on the 911 as first job when it gets back, but think I may have panic bought a bit too much! Two cans was enough for the Honda, and a very complete soaking.
Now we have to work out where all the grommets we pulled out go back
I’ll be doing this on the 911 as first job when it gets back, but think I may have panic bought a bit too much! Two cans was enough for the Honda, and a very complete soaking.
rm36house said:
Awesome thread Sir.
What do you use for underbody sealing your car? I have all clear what you use for arch and sills cavity. What is the correct steps to do it by your own?
Hi, it’s all back up in the thread somewhere but summary of stages: What do you use for underbody sealing your car? I have all clear what you use for arch and sills cavity. What is the correct steps to do it by your own?
- back to metal with wire brush in angle grinder and drill.
- repair any corrosion - not skim over, repair.
- 2k epoxy- I use 121 chassis mastic from rust.co.uk
- Raptor - this is tinted to ‘match’ the paint. It doesn’t match but looks ok.
- Inject Dinitrol ML everywhere you can. You can just about get to the back of the rear arches through the boot.
Everyone has a preference for products but this is mine.
I’ve a decent compressor as I wouldn’t contemplate a job of this size out of cans.
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