My vmax rx7 build
Discussion
Gaz. said:
I think you're going to come unstuck with that turbocharger as it won't cope with the heat generated by a petrol engine.
I was thinking about your cooling, you could house two smaller coolers (either radiators for the engine or intercoolers for the turbo) in the bumper infront of the wheels, with a rear vent to the wheel well, it's a low preasure zone so air will naturaly be drawn out of the radiator (Toyota did this with the intercooler on the Supra).
the turbocharger is fine, it has been run successfully on rotary engines pushing over 700whp at 33psi of boost and multiple 8 and 9 sec qtr miles.I was thinking about your cooling, you could house two smaller coolers (either radiators for the engine or intercoolers for the turbo) in the bumper infront of the wheels, with a rear vent to the wheel well, it's a low preasure zone so air will naturaly be drawn out of the radiator (Toyota did this with the intercooler on the Supra).
on the front bumper that you can the 2 'holes' that are at each end contain oil coolers and brake ducts so i cannot block those off with other things, due to high oil temps.
The rx7 runs watercooled turbo chargers standard which aswell as dumping heat into the oil it also dumps it into the water. Now my new turbo will only be oil cooled so thats one less heat source for the water to deal with and with an enlarged radiator it should cope with the temps, ill set my fans to kick in at a lower temp so that the engine will be running very cool(waterwise) before the run is placed, as long as the water temperature is kept below 103c then it will stay within my parameters.
The biggest issue i think i will face is keeping the air temps down at high boost, but im going for the biggest cooler i can fit and im gonna spray 700cc of water into the turbo, theres not much more that i can do.
the scoot rx7 hit 204mph with 680bhp down a little bumpy B road in new zealand, which alot more drag parts, ill have a much greater advantage than they do
to give you an idea of size, here it is next to a coke can
Obviously you have this massive turbo, your gonna need to connect it to the engine, this is where a forum member on pf called rickylee comes into force.
Now after seeing his manifold he made on his turbo civic build thread, after seeing that i got in touch with him about making me a manifold, really nice chap and he will be building it, will also run a 5inch downpipe to help with spool and top end power which will exit behind the drivers side wheel.
Is this ricky lee from rotherham southyorkshire white civic turbo if it is can i have a link to the build thread please.
my oils arrived today.
Love that i worked for silkolene, free oils, would have cost me £320 if i needed to buy all that!!
thats fully syn 15w50 oil
gearbox and diff oil
gonna replace it all sometime this week when i get chance
here is the link about the civic, probably an old build from when he first did on other forums but should give you an idea
http://passionford.com/forum/restorations-rebuilds...
Love that i worked for silkolene, free oils, would have cost me £320 if i needed to buy all that!!
thats fully syn 15w50 oil
gearbox and diff oil
gonna replace it all sometime this week when i get chance
here is the link about the civic, probably an old build from when he first did on other forums but should give you an idea
http://passionford.com/forum/restorations-rebuilds...
Another update is ive changed my injector setup to try and give me a more reliable setup, make mapping easier and save some money
There was a few issues with my original idea which i did not foresee.
One was that the additional 1600cc injectors are low impediance which means i would have to install resistors before the injectors, i knew of this and didnt think that was a big deal.
I assumed that would make them act like high imp ones, and my apexi ecu would control them as such(thats normally true) i was gonna trick my ecu into thinking that each injector was infact 2450cc(1600cc+my original 850cc) so that they fire together, the issue is the ecu will end up messing up the transition from small primary 550cc to the 2 big ones and flood the engine.
I have now solved this problem by coming across 'injector dynamics' 2000cc injectors, they are special injectors that even when the fuel pressure is increased they provide a consistant spray pattern.
by running these at 50psi base pressure they will provide 2500cc each which as i need 6000cc and i have 1000cc in primarys in the car this will be perfect.
the other benefit is i now dont need to by injector holders to weld into my upper inlet manifold which saves me money, the injectors are more expensive thant he 1600cc, but i think its work it for simplicity.
So i ordered them last night from america so id imagine they will be here sometime next week.
There was a few issues with my original idea which i did not foresee.
One was that the additional 1600cc injectors are low impediance which means i would have to install resistors before the injectors, i knew of this and didnt think that was a big deal.
I assumed that would make them act like high imp ones, and my apexi ecu would control them as such(thats normally true) i was gonna trick my ecu into thinking that each injector was infact 2450cc(1600cc+my original 850cc) so that they fire together, the issue is the ecu will end up messing up the transition from small primary 550cc to the 2 big ones and flood the engine.
I have now solved this problem by coming across 'injector dynamics' 2000cc injectors, they are special injectors that even when the fuel pressure is increased they provide a consistant spray pattern.
by running these at 50psi base pressure they will provide 2500cc each which as i need 6000cc and i have 1000cc in primarys in the car this will be perfect.
the other benefit is i now dont need to by injector holders to weld into my upper inlet manifold which saves me money, the injectors are more expensive thant he 1600cc, but i think its work it for simplicity.
So i ordered them last night from america so id imagine they will be here sometime next week.
my new intercooler arrived today so i thought id chuck some pics up.
Now originally i had decided to go with a 70mm thick rs500 intercooler, the reason for this is that it would fit pretty well into the enginebay and is known to flow well for 700bhp.
When i was chatting to my manifold guy on msn he mentioned inlet/outlet sizes, i said well the standard cossie is 2.5inch throttle body and the rs500 was 3inch from what i had been told, so if its aimed at the 700bhp market then it will have 3inch pipes(it didnt say on the website) He recommended i check with them just incase.
I emailed them and they confirmed that they were infact only 2.5inch......since the outlet of my turbo is already being reduced from 3.5in to 3inch i didnt want to go down in size again, asking how much it would be to cut them off and weld in 3in he said £60-80, which would take the price of the cooler up to £370 which in my eyes was to much as i would have to make savings somewhere else to hit budget.
So then i looked at other options and come across this cooler i now have recieved.
They retail at £180 on ebay but luckily they had on that was on auction, with a bid of sniping i got it for £72!! Now i again need some work doing to it but its a big saving over the other cooler
the core is 600mmx290mmx120mm...yep its a thick one.
it has a larger overall capacity than the 70mm cooler and ive seen it push 900bhp in america so hopefully it will do the job for me.
big box arrives this morning!
woohoo, no damage anywhere
its rather thick
its also rather bloody heavy!
put in hot water for 10mins to test for any air leaks, seems fine
compared to standard cooler
now just need to do some measurements to compare it on the car to see what needs to be modded to fit
Now originally i had decided to go with a 70mm thick rs500 intercooler, the reason for this is that it would fit pretty well into the enginebay and is known to flow well for 700bhp.
When i was chatting to my manifold guy on msn he mentioned inlet/outlet sizes, i said well the standard cossie is 2.5inch throttle body and the rs500 was 3inch from what i had been told, so if its aimed at the 700bhp market then it will have 3inch pipes(it didnt say on the website) He recommended i check with them just incase.
I emailed them and they confirmed that they were infact only 2.5inch......since the outlet of my turbo is already being reduced from 3.5in to 3inch i didnt want to go down in size again, asking how much it would be to cut them off and weld in 3in he said £60-80, which would take the price of the cooler up to £370 which in my eyes was to much as i would have to make savings somewhere else to hit budget.
So then i looked at other options and come across this cooler i now have recieved.
They retail at £180 on ebay but luckily they had on that was on auction, with a bid of sniping i got it for £72!! Now i again need some work doing to it but its a big saving over the other cooler
the core is 600mmx290mmx120mm...yep its a thick one.
it has a larger overall capacity than the 70mm cooler and ive seen it push 900bhp in america so hopefully it will do the job for me.
big box arrives this morning!
woohoo, no damage anywhere
its rather thick
its also rather bloody heavy!
put in hot water for 10mins to test for any air leaks, seems fine
compared to standard cooler
now just need to do some measurements to compare it on the car to see what needs to be modded to fit
Little update, my quickshift arrived today, yes it wont have any benefits for top speed but just fancied one.
simple design
Its actually a B&M replica but its actually better than the real thing because the real ones are made out of aluminum, yes thats great for weight but there is a flaw in that the material isnt strong enough in my opinion, infact i snapped one in half at the drag strip so i know it isnt.
The replicas are made all steel so while they are heavier, they are also stronger.
ok time to install!!
stock
remove gearknob, just unscrews
remove covering
remove rubber sound deadening/wind resistance thingy
remove stick and bolts hold in, hit with hammer to break seal, becareful of gear oil going everywhere
pull plastic boot off original and fit to new quick shift
bolt new quickshift down with supplied washers and bolts
replace rubber covers, replace big plastic cover, reconnect switches, good as new
Well first impressions, my god!! Its so short and feels like im using a completely different box, gonna take some practice on the gear changes as it is very notchy, reminds me of a HKS dog box in a GTR that i once drove, it should settle down as i break it in but feels pretty mad at the moment!
Also taken all the slack out of the gear change so theres no movement at all
Will hopefully have another update on monday
simple design
Its actually a B&M replica but its actually better than the real thing because the real ones are made out of aluminum, yes thats great for weight but there is a flaw in that the material isnt strong enough in my opinion, infact i snapped one in half at the drag strip so i know it isnt.
The replicas are made all steel so while they are heavier, they are also stronger.
ok time to install!!
stock
remove gearknob, just unscrews
remove covering
remove rubber sound deadening/wind resistance thingy
remove stick and bolts hold in, hit with hammer to break seal, becareful of gear oil going everywhere
pull plastic boot off original and fit to new quick shift
bolt new quickshift down with supplied washers and bolts
replace rubber covers, replace big plastic cover, reconnect switches, good as new
Well first impressions, my god!! Its so short and feels like im using a completely different box, gonna take some practice on the gear changes as it is very notchy, reminds me of a HKS dog box in a GTR that i once drove, it should settle down as i break it in but feels pretty mad at the moment!
Also taken all the slack out of the gear change so theres no movement at all
Will hopefully have another update on monday
Fantastic project chum, heres hoping you can break the 200mph barrier!
Hopefully this thread will help shift some of the internet myths about what is really a bloody good engine, in one of the prettiest cars ever made! Reading through this makes me want to keep mine and spend money i dont have!
Hopefully this thread will help shift some of the internet myths about what is really a bloody good engine, in one of the prettiest cars ever made! Reading through this makes me want to keep mine and spend money i dont have!
Another ebay purchase
No damage
thickness of end tanks
thickness of core
Marking up placement
Pretty tight!!
Checking for leaks
One the issues with running an intercooler of 120mm thickness is that you struggle to cool the water temps due to the restriction of air getting to the radiator.
By only covering half the radiator with the rad you gain the benefit of a thick intercooler and alot of air passing though the rad, thats my theory behind why this should work so fingers crossed.
like this
Just need to get my intercooler over the local aluminum welding place to cut it to my specs
No damage
thickness of end tanks
thickness of core
Marking up placement
Pretty tight!!
Checking for leaks
One the issues with running an intercooler of 120mm thickness is that you struggle to cool the water temps due to the restriction of air getting to the radiator.
By only covering half the radiator with the rad you gain the benefit of a thick intercooler and alot of air passing though the rad, thats my theory behind why this should work so fingers crossed.
like this
Just need to get my intercooler over the local aluminum welding place to cut it to my specs
Got bored today so decided to put the battery in the boot, it needed doing to make room for my intercooler/rad setup
Sorry for lack of pics going through it all but it was raining hard and didnt want to spend forever outside
removed from engine bay and ran live feed to rear of car
bolted tray down to chassis then built everything else back up, connect live and ran earth wire to a bolt hole near by
Since the car will run 60psi base pressure of fuel and the engine will need 6000cc/min of fuel at peak power i worked out id need 360 litres per hour worth of pumping power.
now pumps that you see the specs for arnt rated for that certain fuel pressure.
A 305LPH flows 230LPH at 60psi so im gonna run 2 pumps to give 460LPH
These are gonna be both intank strapped together
ill be using a Y piece to connect the pumps together inside the tank....2x -6 to a -8 Y piece
Then -8 fuel line running to a -8 fuel filter, then -8 fuel line to a Y piece with 2x -6 to split to the 2 fuel rails.
the primary rail will be running the original 550cc injectors(obviously at 60psi fuel pressure they will be higher, maybe 600cc)
the secondary rail will be running ID 2200cc injectors(at 60psi will be 2500cc)
the reverse will be the same as above as a Y piece will connect them back up together before heading to the FPR, that line will be -8
Through the FPR and a -8 return line back the tank.
I know that might not be written very well but this is my first go at setting up a fuel system and im not really sure the easiest way to explain it so i have included a picture.
For refence the reason the the rails connect back together with a Y piece before going to the FPR is because ill be using the stock FPR and injectors for a while until i buy my rail/injectors/FPR at a later date, at that time ill send each injector rail outlet into the 2 inlets on the adjustable FPR
Sorry for lack of pics going through it all but it was raining hard and didnt want to spend forever outside
removed from engine bay and ran live feed to rear of car
bolted tray down to chassis then built everything else back up, connect live and ran earth wire to a bolt hole near by
Since the car will run 60psi base pressure of fuel and the engine will need 6000cc/min of fuel at peak power i worked out id need 360 litres per hour worth of pumping power.
now pumps that you see the specs for arnt rated for that certain fuel pressure.
A 305LPH flows 230LPH at 60psi so im gonna run 2 pumps to give 460LPH
These are gonna be both intank strapped together
ill be using a Y piece to connect the pumps together inside the tank....2x -6 to a -8 Y piece
Then -8 fuel line running to a -8 fuel filter, then -8 fuel line to a Y piece with 2x -6 to split to the 2 fuel rails.
the primary rail will be running the original 550cc injectors(obviously at 60psi fuel pressure they will be higher, maybe 600cc)
the secondary rail will be running ID 2200cc injectors(at 60psi will be 2500cc)
the reverse will be the same as above as a Y piece will connect them back up together before heading to the FPR, that line will be -8
Through the FPR and a -8 return line back the tank.
I know that might not be written very well but this is my first go at setting up a fuel system and im not really sure the easiest way to explain it so i have included a picture.
For refence the reason the the rails connect back together with a Y piece before going to the FPR is because ill be using the stock FPR and injectors for a while until i buy my rail/injectors/FPR at a later date, at that time ill send each injector rail outlet into the 2 inlets on the adjustable FPR
Edited by turbotoaster on Wednesday 31st March 17:43
ok next part of my ebay part special build arrived today
The elbow that bolts onto my throttle body, as previously mentioned the reason im going for this is to maintain my pipework size so that there is no airflow restrictions which in theory will maximise the air entering the inlet manifold, i know the differences are minimal, but as a famous supermarket once said, every little helps!
Got it £79 delivered which was the cheapest around i could find it
looks like this is the company thats paying china for it
have to say, casting internally is pretty poor, so im gonna spend this afternoon with some sand paper and smooth it all out
heres what i mean about there being an internal step, this is the point at which im gonna cut it off, hence losing the narrow part
Checking its the same size as my intercooler...good to go!!
Not sure what to do next, either order my 2 fuel pumps or mod my intercooler so i can fit it with my rad, will have a think about when i next get paid
The elbow that bolts onto my throttle body, as previously mentioned the reason im going for this is to maintain my pipework size so that there is no airflow restrictions which in theory will maximise the air entering the inlet manifold, i know the differences are minimal, but as a famous supermarket once said, every little helps!
Got it £79 delivered which was the cheapest around i could find it
looks like this is the company thats paying china for it
have to say, casting internally is pretty poor, so im gonna spend this afternoon with some sand paper and smooth it all out
heres what i mean about there being an internal step, this is the point at which im gonna cut it off, hence losing the narrow part
Checking its the same size as my intercooler...good to go!!
Not sure what to do next, either order my 2 fuel pumps or mod my intercooler so i can fit it with my rad, will have a think about when i next get paid
Fantastic build, you obviously know your stuff, for me just one small part of the build would have taken this long!!
I had a '96 Type-R and did induction, ECU, exhaust, and quick shift gearbox, this was after the original engine blew so had to get that rebuilt. Got 330BHP on a RR and it was pretty brutal to drive with just that, cant begin to imagine what this will be like with over 500BHP.
Good luck with it all, looking forward to seeing how it progresses.
I had a '96 Type-R and did induction, ECU, exhaust, and quick shift gearbox, this was after the original engine blew so had to get that rebuilt. Got 330BHP on a RR and it was pretty brutal to drive with just that, cant begin to imagine what this will be like with over 500BHP.
Good luck with it all, looking forward to seeing how it progresses.
Tokoloshe said:
Fantastic build, you obviously know your stuff, for me just one small part of the build would have taken this long!!
I had a '96 Type-R and did induction, ECU, exhaust, and quick shift gearbox, this was after the original engine blew so had to get that rebuilt. Got 330BHP on a RR and it was pretty brutal to drive with just that, cant begin to imagine what this will be like with over 500BHP.
Good luck with it all, looking forward to seeing how it progresses.
You got 330bhp with induction kit, ECU and exhaust?I had a '96 Type-R and did induction, ECU, exhaust, and quick shift gearbox, this was after the original engine blew so had to get that rebuilt. Got 330BHP on a RR and it was pretty brutal to drive with just that, cant begin to imagine what this will be like with over 500BHP.
Good luck with it all, looking forward to seeing how it progresses.
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