Rover 200 BRM - 1.8 K-Series turbo project

Rover 200 BRM - 1.8 K-Series turbo project

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Discussion

Stuballs

Original Poster:

218 posts

102 months

Wednesday 3rd October 2018
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Thanks guys. I'm still enjoying the process and she now looks exactly how I envisioned. Everything is how I want it except the engine, so I'm very excited for the new build. I've learned a lot from the two engines that haven't worked out, so I've no regrets!

The new pistons will produce a static compression of just under 9:1 and are tall enough to maintain squish with the shorter rods (meaning the ring lands are chunky as 'eck). I have new steel rods and a new crank is on the way, plus a lighter flywheel. Everything will be balanced. I'll be using a brand new block with Westwood ductile iron liners.

The icing on the cake is the brand new in box VVC cylinder head I was able to source. To avoid exposing any porosity (sometimes an issue with these) I'll not be fettling it except perhaps port-matching the inlet side.



I'm currently talking to Owen Developments about turbo choice. Over the years the car has moved away from a daily road car so I'm prepared to go a little more extreme, whilst still keeping in mind the limitations of the drivetrain. A larger turbine (than the gt2560r on it previously) will help the whole thing breathe and reduce ebp which was costing power at the top end on the last build. I'm currently leaning towards a Gen 2 Garrett GTX2867R. I could run that at a safe 250bhp on low boost but would have scope for 350-400bhp if I ever felt the need.


Stuballs

Original Poster:

218 posts

102 months

Wednesday 10th July 2019
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Well I've had a mental year this year what with getting married and having to move house unexpectedly (the week before the wedding) to a house with no garage (I know). The BRM has therefore taken a back seat (and been banished to a random lockup 15 miles away from my house).

Earlier this year I did manage to get all of the new engine components balanced AND I've also had my turbo modified to a similar spec to gtx2867r. It's basically my old turbo's front and rear housings machined to fit bigger wheels, and a whole new centre housing.

I have a lovely timber garage going up next month so that will give me somewhere to unpack all my tools and stuff and finally build the new engine and get it in. Plan is just to have the car maps and run in before the end of the year.






















s3 akr

262 posts

154 months

Wednesday 10th July 2019
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I wondered what had happened here. I read the piece from end to end a while back and it just stopped. Keep it going - interesting read and a lot of work going into a very rare car.

itcaptainslow

3,713 posts

137 months

Wednesday 10th July 2019
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Nice to see something at the other end of the scale to my standard one! smile

Stuballs

Original Poster:

218 posts

102 months

Friday 12th July 2019
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s3 akr said:
I wondered what had happened here. I read the piece from end to end a while back and it just stopped. Keep it going - interesting read and a lot of work going into a very rare car.
Thanks. I expect most people have stopped reading it now given all the problems and questionable decisions, but I feel compelled to keep it going

itcaptainslow said:
Nice to see something at the other end of the scale to my standard one! smile
Thanks. Seen yours and it looks tidy!

Comeinhandy

15 posts

133 months

Tuesday 5th November 2019
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An interesting read, It would be nice for it to come to a conclusion on the build spec for a fast but reliable setup of say 200-250bhp. I am starting on a 1.8 turbo in a freelander, so there were some interesting tips in your blog so far. Keep it up please. Jon

mattdavies

254 posts

158 months

Wednesday 6th November 2019
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Just spent the last couple of hours reading this. A very interesting read.

The one thing I would say is that with a bigger turbo you will need a full 3" exhaust at least, this will allow your turbo to spool quicker and also reduce your EGTs

s3 akr

262 posts

154 months

Thursday 14th November 2019
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This thread needs to be brought back to life. Don't let it die!!

Stuballs

Original Poster:

218 posts

102 months

Tuesday 19th November 2019
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Thanks for the comments

Updates are on the way. I've recently been collecting parts and just setting up to start the new build. Hopefully get the piston rings gapped and plastigauge the main and big end to ensure clearances are within spec after the crank was polished.

Starting this one with a brand new block...


anonymous-user

55 months

Tuesday 19th November 2019
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Stuballs said:
Thanks for the comments

Updates are on the way. I've recently been collecting parts and just setting up to start the new build. Hopefully get the piston rings gapped and plastigauge the main and big end to ensure clearances are within spec after the crank was polished.

Starting this one with a brand new block...

Where did you get the block, can't be that many new K series parts around on shelves somewhere can there?

I've always wondered if the block could be modified in any way to better support the bottom of the liners and try to prevent the dreaded liner sink.......

Megaflow

9,486 posts

226 months

Tuesday 19th November 2019
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Max_Torque said:
Where did you get the block, can't be that many new K series parts around on shelves somewhere can there?

I've always wondered if the block could be modified in any way to better support the bottom of the liners and try to prevent the dreaded liner sink.......
I might be wrong, but I believe the Scholar 1.9 conversion deals with that issue, the block is bored out and the new liners are a light press fit.

anonymous-user

55 months

Tuesday 19th November 2019
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Megaflow said:
Max_Torque said:
Where did you get the block, can't be that many new K series parts around on shelves somewhere can there?

I've always wondered if the block could be modified in any way to better support the bottom of the liners and try to prevent the dreaded liner sink.......
I might be wrong, but I believe the Scholar 1.9 conversion deals with that issue, the block is bored out and the new liners are a light press fit.
It would be an interesting exercise to understand the load paths with that conversion, ie where the head fastening loads are resolved?

The std K has the through bolts, that pull the head to the block face, and take the majority of the load into the liners (to seal the fire face interface) and that load is passed down the liners, and into the lower zone of the block, through the main bearing webs, up against which the lower bedplate (with the other half of the main webs) is pulled by the head bolts.

The "liner sinking" is caused, iirc, by the liners fretting and expanding (thermal expansion difference to the ally block) and i think, wearing down into the supporting block material, but it also could be that the liners actual are yielding the block at that high load interface? Has anyone measured a "sagged" block and worked out where the sag actually occurred? Without being able to carry a higher load reliably in this area, then that prohibits the use of a higher head clamp load, which means forced induction or high CR engines are always going to suffer from top end sealing issues....

Megaflow

9,486 posts

226 months

Wednesday 20th November 2019
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I wasn’t sure, so I did some more reading, and I might have oversold them, DVA stopped using them in 20154 for leaking issues, so maybe they didn’t solve that issue.

AER

1,142 posts

271 months

Friday 22nd November 2019
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That block is a Chinese N-series block which are floating about now.

As far as liners sinking, I think it's really only a problem if the alloy gets a bit on the hot side although decking the block and lapping the liners into place with some paste to maximize bearing area probably helps, as does ensuring the liners are all the same height. The limiting factor on the shoulder area that the liner sits on is the bore pitch unless you get fancy with non-circular liners.

anonymous-user

55 months

Friday 22nd November 2019
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AER said:
That block is a Chinese N-series block which are floating about now.

As far as liners sinking, I think it's really only a problem if the alloy gets a bit on the hot side although decking the block and lapping the liners into place with some paste to maximize bearing area probably helps, as does ensuring the liners are all the same height. The limiting factor on the shoulder area that the liner sits on is the bore pitch unless you get fancy with non-circular liners.
Is there any scope for sandwiching a steel re-enforcing ring into the block to bedplate joint, or the bedplate to sump joint, and somehow having some load carrying supports come up to the area of the liner bottom faces?

Stuballs

Original Poster:

218 posts

102 months

Saturday 23rd November 2019
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Elise Parts sell the blocks new. They're supposed to be "stronger" on account of the ribbing. I've seen other comments that the ribbing reduces noise from the engine, possibly allowing it to run a knock sensor. Not sure I buy any of that. I just wanted to rule out having a block that could have been overheated and sunk the liners. As you say, the weak link of this engine eally comes down to how narrow the liner seats are, and how easily the liners sink when the block is overheated.

The last built engine was a 1. 9 Scholar. My non-engineering brain figured an added bonus of the press-fit system was the liners would be harder to sink given the frictional forces between the bottom half of the liners and the alloy block. One reported problem with this conversion (but I have no evidence) was ovalisation. My engine suffered with epic engine noise and when I stripped it down to investigate and sort the pressurising coolant I discovered knarly pistion/bore contact inlet and exhaust sides. So bad in fact it had written off the block and the pistons. I had always intended to investigate and have everything measured properly by my engineering shop. However in a last minute unexpected house move (to a new place with no garage) I just chucked the lot in a skip!









There probably is a way to reinforce the liners, but ultimately it would come down to cost - benefit I guess? MaxTorque I'm no engineer so didn't follow a lot of what you said. The K-series was so widely used I expect if there was an affordable (or even an unaffordable) solution it would have been tried.

Of note: The 1.8t saic/kavachi/tci-tech engine in the mk1 mg6 (and used extensively in China) is effectively the same architecture as the K-series (different head) but doesn't suffer the same hgf issues the original K-series did. I really want to get hold of one and strip it down to see exactly what is different!

Coakers

245 posts

90 months

Tuesday 26th November 2019
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Very enjoyable read and I admire your perseverance with this car. Many people would have given up by now! Its given me a great insight into the K series and its always good to see a more obscure car like this getting a lot of love and attention! Looking forward to more updates.

AER

1,142 posts

271 months

Wednesday 27th November 2019
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The liners on the K are pretty slim so pressing them into a wobbly block isn't going to make for maintaining a round bore under thermal and mechanical loads. I'd suspect the K assembly needs to be kept loose aside from cylinder head to liner clamp loads which need to stay tight for obvious reasons.

IMO it's a bit of a silly engine to attempt to boost beyond its known power and pressure limitations because the structural limitations are flaming obvious. That and the piston crown height and rod length that has been pushed to slightly beyond ridiculous.

As an S1 Elise owner I browse for K pictures on the web from time to time with ambitions to up-engineer it. The reality is though, there are other engines out there now that are much more robust and very nearly as light these days - the Duratec, for example - with headroom for spectacular power upgrades due to better bore-stroke ratios, bigger valves and sensible conrod lengths. It just doesn't make any sense to thrown effort at the K . It's old technology - useful still, but old and limited.

227bhp

10,203 posts

129 months

Wednesday 27th November 2019
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Those pistons look like they were too tight in the bore.
The aforementioned Mazda Duratec block is also alloy with cast iron liners, but they cast them in situ so the whole of the liner (including top and sides) is encased in alloy.

anonymous-user

55 months

Wednesday 27th November 2019
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I've seen a few bad Scholar installaions, mainly due to how they fitted the liners, i.e. not true.

When my old VHPD went pop it was found that the liner protrusion wasn't great. The solution, as I didn't want a new block was to remove everything and then dress the block surface back to get all four at the top of their tolerances.

Good thread. Thanks for the updates.