1958 Austin A35 - the family heirloom...

[Bobupndown]

It may be beyond sensible economic repair but as a family car with such a long history it's got to be worth saving. You'll never make your money back on it but I don't think that's the issue here.

[Ambleton]

You're right. Just gotta suck it up.

Once the shell is solid then I can take my time on the other bits but right now doing anything else (that's not shell related) is a waste of time.

Need good foundations!

I'd like the engine and box out before the end of the week.

Tonight's mission is fuel line off, exhaust off, front seats out.

Hopefully interior tomorrow, then engine+box after that.

Then I can start cleaning off the grot to assess the underside for my welder friend to come over.

[covmutley]

Bobupndown said:

It may be beyond sensible economic repair but as a family car with such a long history it's got to be worth saving. You'll never make your money back on it but I don't think that's the issue here.

Agree.

I find it a bit odd that people look so closely at repair costs anyway. People will happily lose thousands buying brand new cars, even decent second hand cars lose thousands. Plus it's a hobby for most. Obviously you have to have the money, but how many people don't play golf on the basis they don't see a return on their £1500 (or whatever) membership fee? They either stump up the cash, or don't play.

[Chunkychucky]

bigothunter said:

and31 said:

A single 1.75 inch SU HIF44 will work great with a 1275,twin carbs are great if running big power but they are expensive and not really necessary for the power you are looking for

Also twin SUs tend to foul with an A35's steering idler.

Hmmm, not sure what inlet manifold you were trying, i've got twin 1.5" SUs mounted on mine, even the float chamber hanging off the rearward carb is a good 2+ inches away from the steering idler

[Ambleton]

Had another decent couple of evenings in the garage!

Last night I took off the rear lights, numberplate, exhaust (more holes than rust, more rust than metal), fuel line and brake line to the frame cylinder.

I only took one photo last night...



I gingerly tried the prop shaft fasteners but they were absolutely solid.

This morning before work I popped to the local Screwfix at 7am to pick up a can of plusgas. Got home and doused all the remaining visible fasteners before heading to work.

When I got home I drenched them all again before dinner, then one last time before attempting removal, so far every single fastener has come out!

I bloody love plusgas. Forget WD40.

First off were the passenger side seat brackets that bolt into the floor.

Next was the propshaft....



Then I drained the engine and gearbox oil and removed the clutch linkage.

I was on a bit of a roll at this point so I had a look about and decided that I could probably drop the engine and gearbox tonight too assuming no fk ups ...

Gearbox cradle fasteners came out sweet and all of the engine mounts bolts came off too, dropped the car down, supported the gearbox, dropped that down, lifted the engine at the front, removed the mounts, dropped the engine through the hole, raised the car! Simple!

It all went rather perfectly!

Tomorrow's job is to drag the engine and box away, remove the rear anti roll bar and finish tearing the interior out.

Then time for a deep clean!

Edited by Ambleton on Tuesday 22 August 23:11

[ferret50]

If you want a job doing, ask a busy man!

First rate progress, well impressed.

[Ambleton]

It's amazing how quickly you can crack on with stuff when you're not messing about designing/making/building from scratch as you go along. This is "just" a case of unbolting and bolting stuff together!

I can sense progress may slow down once I actually have to start thinking about stuff though - like pedal box mounting (for the brakes/hydraulic clutch) and handbrake. But so far I'm just ripping her to bits so im motoring along at a fair lick.

One thing I'll need to think about when re-assembling is fasteners. I'm used to metric so I have no idea on imperial sizes - something to read up on

[bigothunter]

Are you intending to use a spit for repairing the body underside? Spits are very useful.

ps A35 even has removable bulkhead panels for spits used during production. Attaching onto body points for bumper irons is an option, providing they are structurally solid.

[Ambleton]

I'm not sure what my welder friend wants to do yet, wether he needs one or not is up to him, he may have a spit already or he may make one out of some scaff or box I don't know. I agree that a spit would probably be beneficial though.

[Chunkychucky]

Ambleton said:

It's amazing how quickly you can crack on with stuff when you're not messing about designing/making/building from scratch as you go along. This is "just" a case of unbolting and bolting stuff together!

I can sense progress may slow down once I actually have to start thinking about stuff though - like pedal box mounting (for the brakes/hydraulic clutch) and handbrake. But so far I'm just ripping her to bits so im motoring along at a fair lick.

One thing I'll need to think about when re-assembling is fasteners. I'm used to metric so I have no idea on imperial sizes - something to read up on

Good to see more progress OP! Trying to recall if you had mentioned previously but I saw there were some reconditioned radiators being advertised on the A35 Owners Club page on Faceache, not sure if you're a member of that group already but worth joining for the parts people advertise occasionally.

Also enjoy immersing yourself in the world of Imperial sizes - losing a 10mm socket is sooooo basic, real men lose 3/8" sockets

[Ambleton]

Chunkychucky said:

Good to see more progress OP! Trying to recall if you had mentioned previously but I saw there were some reconditioned radiators being advertised on the A35 Owners Club page on Faceache, not sure if you're a member of that group already but worth joining for the parts people advertise occasionally.

Also enjoy immersing yourself in the world of Imperial sizes - losing a 10mm socket is sooooo basic, real men lose 3/8" sockets

I'm half tempted to convert to metric but I know that will be a proper pain in the ass unless I can do every single component, which I can't (easily/realistically)

I am on that group. I'll find the price to get mine re-cored first as it should be cheaper. I have already agreed to take my midget gearbox and diff to Claire to refurb, just need to work out when. I need to check the numbers but I'm almost certain it's a 3.7diff, which I believe are relatively difficult to get hold of!

[bigothunter]

Ambleton said:

I'm not sure what my welder friend wants to do yet, wether he needs one or not is up to him, he may have a spit already or he may make one out of some scaff or box I don't know. I agree that a spit would probably be beneficial though.

Wether is a ram or goat that has been castrated at a young age

[bigothunter]

Ambleton said:

I'm half tempted to convert to metric but I know that will be a proper pain in the ass unless I can do every single component, which I can't (easily/realistically)

I am on that group. I'll find the price to get mine re-cored first as it should be cheaper. I have already agreed to take my midget gearbox and diff to Claire to refurb, just need to work out when. I need to check the numbers but I'm almost certain it's a 3.7diff, which I believe are relatively difficult to get hold of!

3.7 diff is too high for an A35 especially at 948cc. You would struggle to get out of third gear.

Optimum road diffs are 4.2 for 948cc and 3.9 for 1275cc. Standard A35 has a lowish 4.55.

[Ambleton]

It's going to be have a rebuilt 1275 in it with circa 75-80bhp.

I also have another midget diff (can't recall ratios now), and the existing standard A35 diff to choose from.

[bigothunter]

Ambleton said:

It's going to be have a rebuilt 1275 in it with circa 75-80bhp.

I also have another midget diff (can't recall ratios now), and the existing standard A35 diff to choose from.

Midget came with 4.2 and 3.9 diffs.

[Ambleton]

bigothunter said:

Midget came with 4.2 and 3.9 diffs.

As far as my research goes:
1275 midgets came with 4.22
1500 midgets came with 3.9
The very last 1500 midgets and US spec 1500s had 3.7

Standard 948 A35s were 4.55.

Top gear on all gearboxes 1:1

[bigothunter]

Ambleton said:

bigothunter said:

Midget came with 4.2 and 3.9 diffs.

As far as my research goes:
1275 midgets came with 4.22
1500 midgets came with 3.9
The very last 1500 midgets and US spec 1500s had 3.7

Standard 948 A35s were 4.55.

Top gear on all gearboxes 1:1

Later 1275 Midgets had 3.9 diffs.

3.7 diffs were fitted to Wolseley 1500 and Riley 1.5

Standard 948 A35 with 4.55 diff is actually undergeared. It has higher top speed and better fuel economy on a 4.2 diff. Very odd choice of ratio by Austin.

[Ambleton]

bigothunter said:

Later 1275 Midgets had 3.9 diffs.

3.7 diffs were fitted to Wolseley 1500 and Riley 1.5

Standard 948 A35 with 4.55 diff is actually undergeared. It has higher top speed and better fuel economy on a 4.2 diff. Very odd choice of ratio by Austin.

Interesting, thanks for the info! I'll dig out what I have and go over the numbers once the shell is clear and its out the way whilst it goes for some surgery

Edited by Ambleton on Wednesday 23 August 11:30

[smn159]

I put a 3.9 diff into the A35 van that I had and it went very well. As above, the original was woefully under geared

[bigothunter]

smn159 said:

I put a 3.9 diff into the A35 van that I had and it went very well. As above, the original was woefully under geared

Which engine did you have?