Volkswagen Corrado G60
Discussion
It's been a busy time at work in the last month or so, and while there are jobs that need dealing with on this, the Morris and the bike, today was not the day for that. Instead I spent hours washing and polishing, which is most unlike me, but was an amazing mental restorative!
I even broke out a clay bar to tackle the paintwork, although the tree sap appears deeply ingrained!
I did tackle the vital jobs of tidying up the rear VW badge, and in polishing, the Corrado badge needed some attention too as the mountings weren't great.
Happy with the outcome though
I even broke out a clay bar to tackle the paintwork, although the tree sap appears deeply ingrained!
I did tackle the vital jobs of tidying up the rear VW badge, and in polishing, the Corrado badge needed some attention too as the mountings weren't great.
Happy with the outcome though
Edited by darkyoung1000 on Saturday 6th July 21:54
@Spinakerr, I can always find an excuse...
In this case, genuine, in that the Morris needs a spot of work before I can move the Corrado into the back yard to do the exhaust (as I don't fancy doing it on the street).
Also, the front brake calipers on the bike need attention, however, once that's done...!
Thanks for the compliments about the colour, the closer I get, the more scratches there are unfortunately.
There arent any upgraded handbrake mechanisms made by clubs that I'm aware of, the mostly focus on the trim stuff that is unobtainable anywhere else now.
In this case, genuine, in that the Morris needs a spot of work before I can move the Corrado into the back yard to do the exhaust (as I don't fancy doing it on the street).
Also, the front brake calipers on the bike need attention, however, once that's done...!
Thanks for the compliments about the colour, the closer I get, the more scratches there are unfortunately.
There arent any upgraded handbrake mechanisms made by clubs that I'm aware of, the mostly focus on the trim stuff that is unobtainable anywhere else now.
Finally I could procrastinate no longer, and set about doing the exhaust yesterday (on a Sunday, because you never need any additional parts of course....).
This is the original exhaust before I started, and I had my shiny new one all the way from Germany ready to go.
The old exhaust predictably enough put up a fight - both clamp bolts were seized solid, and I actually managed to break a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer before doing what I should have done in the first place, and breaking out the angle grinder....
A spot of hammering and twisting later, and both sections were off. Ah....
Can anyone else spot the problem here.... This photo was actually taken after I'd found the problem, hence the sharpie markings and the presence of the exhaust clamp in the photo. The supplier from Germany seems to have sent me the part for a G60 without a Catalytic converter (which also fits a 1.8 16v from the packaging. This was unfortunately some months ago, and I've already sprayed parts of it up with VHT paint to better protect it from the elements. No going back then, time yo get creative....
What I actually did yesterday was break out the calipers and measure the old and the new, to see what I could come up with.
Two options really - I could either cut a section out of the new exhaust and weld the flared section back on, or cut the end off and clamp it onto the existing section with the cat in it. I did contemplate removing the cat entirely (it legally doesn't need one as it just predates the change in law), but that seemed like a lot more work. Interesting to note that the new pipe is a larger diameter all the way back, presumably as it's designed for something without a cat
Given the fact that my welding isn't great; the welder was across town in a friend's garage and that the location of the weld would be subject to stress and likely to fatigue (especially given the quality of my welding), I went with the clamp option.
Measure, measure again, mark up, test fit, mark up some more and then prepare to cut a section out of £260 of new exhaust....
You wee beauty. A gap of only a few mm between the car section, and the new mid-section.
Before breaking out the exhaust paste and hanging it properly, it was time to see what I could do with the handbrake mechanism mounting. I originally had grand ideas of drilling through the floorplan into the exhaust tunnel so that I could prevent it from lifting again (see previous remarks about my welding skills). However, the bolt that holds the handbrake mechanism to the sheet metal mounting is captive - they must put it in then weld it in place. There's no easy way to drill an additional hole without disturbing the front bolt, so I'm afraid I settled for battering it back into place (the section size is a few mm) and hoping that I've not fatigued it too much. I suspect it will rise again, but for now I'll just go easy on the handbrake....
This newly reset handbrake (the first time it's ever been flat when down while in my ownership), meant I had to re-adjust the cables of course, before I could return to finish off the exhaust!
I reset a loose bit of heatshield over the mid-box and then put it all together:
I had to heat the rubbers a little bit as I was re-using the old ones (the new ones supplied with the exhaust were to hang it on a different mounting - presumably a Golf or Valver).
However, it's now all on (and yes, I know it looks a little skewed in the above photo - I did adjust it after taking that one, I couldn't live with it!), and it seems to have cured the paste OK. All clamps tightened a little further, and no obvious blowing from the system. I think my wife is taking it up to Newcastle tomorrow, so that will be a full test....
Oh yes, and while I had the rear wheels up off the ground, I checked my suspicion that the noise was the rear wheel bearings. It is....
That's been added to the list (and I picked up the bearings when I got the clamp) so I'll try and tack them next. Hopefully I've learned from when I did it on the Mk2 Golf many years ago, over-tightened them, and was overtaken by my own rear wheel about half a mile after setting off!
This is the original exhaust before I started, and I had my shiny new one all the way from Germany ready to go.
The old exhaust predictably enough put up a fight - both clamp bolts were seized solid, and I actually managed to break a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer before doing what I should have done in the first place, and breaking out the angle grinder....
A spot of hammering and twisting later, and both sections were off. Ah....
Can anyone else spot the problem here.... This photo was actually taken after I'd found the problem, hence the sharpie markings and the presence of the exhaust clamp in the photo. The supplier from Germany seems to have sent me the part for a G60 without a Catalytic converter (which also fits a 1.8 16v from the packaging. This was unfortunately some months ago, and I've already sprayed parts of it up with VHT paint to better protect it from the elements. No going back then, time yo get creative....
What I actually did yesterday was break out the calipers and measure the old and the new, to see what I could come up with.
Two options really - I could either cut a section out of the new exhaust and weld the flared section back on, or cut the end off and clamp it onto the existing section with the cat in it. I did contemplate removing the cat entirely (it legally doesn't need one as it just predates the change in law), but that seemed like a lot more work. Interesting to note that the new pipe is a larger diameter all the way back, presumably as it's designed for something without a cat
Given the fact that my welding isn't great; the welder was across town in a friend's garage and that the location of the weld would be subject to stress and likely to fatigue (especially given the quality of my welding), I went with the clamp option.
Measure, measure again, mark up, test fit, mark up some more and then prepare to cut a section out of £260 of new exhaust....
You wee beauty. A gap of only a few mm between the car section, and the new mid-section.
Before breaking out the exhaust paste and hanging it properly, it was time to see what I could do with the handbrake mechanism mounting. I originally had grand ideas of drilling through the floorplan into the exhaust tunnel so that I could prevent it from lifting again (see previous remarks about my welding skills). However, the bolt that holds the handbrake mechanism to the sheet metal mounting is captive - they must put it in then weld it in place. There's no easy way to drill an additional hole without disturbing the front bolt, so I'm afraid I settled for battering it back into place (the section size is a few mm) and hoping that I've not fatigued it too much. I suspect it will rise again, but for now I'll just go easy on the handbrake....
This newly reset handbrake (the first time it's ever been flat when down while in my ownership), meant I had to re-adjust the cables of course, before I could return to finish off the exhaust!
I reset a loose bit of heatshield over the mid-box and then put it all together:
I had to heat the rubbers a little bit as I was re-using the old ones (the new ones supplied with the exhaust were to hang it on a different mounting - presumably a Golf or Valver).
However, it's now all on (and yes, I know it looks a little skewed in the above photo - I did adjust it after taking that one, I couldn't live with it!), and it seems to have cured the paste OK. All clamps tightened a little further, and no obvious blowing from the system. I think my wife is taking it up to Newcastle tomorrow, so that will be a full test....
Oh yes, and while I had the rear wheels up off the ground, I checked my suspicion that the noise was the rear wheel bearings. It is....
That's been added to the list (and I picked up the bearings when I got the clamp) so I'll try and tack them next. Hopefully I've learned from when I did it on the Mk2 Golf many years ago, over-tightened them, and was overtaken by my own rear wheel about half a mile after setting off!
bolidemichael said:
Hello Tom,
I came across this thread a few days ago and have been enjoying catching up with it. I can confirm that your mantra is, "installation, as they say, is the reverse of removal"
A couple of things that I'd like to ask. Firstly, what makes a G60 different to other Corrado models? Is it the supercharger and perhaps even rear wheel drive? Your thread appeals very much to the VW cognoscenti, despite being a very interesting 'project' inofitself, and my curiosity has hitherto remained unfulfilled.
Secondly, I was intrigued by the thermal imaging that you shared. You spotted that one of the cylinders seemed to be running hotter than the rest, but left it as an observation. However, a little later you discovered corrosion on one of the HT lead terminals (cheap items that you sourced from ECP at a bargain price and relaxed with high spec items). It occurred to me that perhaps this may have been the same cylinder that was running hotter than the rest?
Michael
Evening Michael,I came across this thread a few days ago and have been enjoying catching up with it. I can confirm that your mantra is, "installation, as they say, is the reverse of removal"
A couple of things that I'd like to ask. Firstly, what makes a G60 different to other Corrado models? Is it the supercharger and perhaps even rear wheel drive? Your thread appeals very much to the VW cognoscenti, despite being a very interesting 'project' inofitself, and my curiosity has hitherto remained unfulfilled.
Secondly, I was intrigued by the thermal imaging that you shared. You spotted that one of the cylinders seemed to be running hotter than the rest, but left it as an observation. However, a little later you discovered corrosion on one of the HT lead terminals (cheap items that you sourced from ECP at a bargain price and relaxed with high spec items). It occurred to me that perhaps this may have been the same cylinder that was running hotter than the rest?
Michael
Edited by bolidemichael on Thursday 15th August 23:50
Apologies for the delayed response, before I knew it the weekend had arrived and rolled over me with the myriad of things I had on (none of them Corrado related unfortunately).
Thanks for your post - I hadn't noticed until you pointed it out, however, I'm sure that the FLIR image of the hotter plug, does tally with the HT lead that was more corroded than the others. As to its long term implications I can only speculate, but I'm hoping they're minor!
As to what makes the G60 different, the drive is perhaps regrettably still the front wheels, being based largely on a mixture of Mk2 Golf and Passat underpinnings. The main difference was in the power plant - where the 8v engine (again found in the Mk2 Golf) was given a scroll-type supercharger to boost the power from about 115bhp to 160bhp. This was a healthy dose more than the 16v Corrado/Mk2 Golf. The charger itself was designed in the early 20th century, but required more modern metallurgical advances to allow them to manufacture it! As the halo model of the early range, the charger was unfortunately marketed as requiring no maintenance, when actually they need regular servicing to inspect and replace the oil seals (and smaller pulleys will reduce the service interval). Subsequent failures really dented their reputation (which wasn't great to start with, being vastly more expensive than the Scirocco that it was sold along side of for the first 3 years).
The same engine was found in the Mk2 Golf and Passat, but I think it was only sold in LHD with a 4WD system. If you want completely bonkers, they also put a smaller output charger into the 1.3 Mk2 Polo (but didn't upgrade the brakes to match by all accounts)....
I like it because I like the principles of supercharging and the way the engine responds. I also love the looks, the relative rarity (it was a commercial failure that VW would rather forget), and the way it drives overall. There are faster, better handling cars out there for sure, but I'm smitten (or addicted).
Thanks,
Thom
@Tommie38 - I'd agree with you, I'm just aware that it is a criticism that could be levelled at it. Certainly, in my experience, I love the handling, the experience and the feel of it, however, at Snetterton in the wet, it certainly behaved in a predictable but flawed fashion Loved it though! You were right about EVO Magazine btw, although they were talking about the VR6 in that instance...
@griffin dai - this seems to follow on nicely... Performance wise, well, its not as quick in a straight line and the noise isn't as good, but in terms of A & B road performance in the real world, I think that the G60 holds its own very well. In standard form it's 30 hp down on the VR6, but about 100kg lighter (I think), although the gearbox means that it loses out on the 0-60 time as it only hits 58 in second.... Number top trumps aside - having had both on track, I thought the G60 felt less nose heavy, and if I wanted to, releasing that extra 30hp through a smaller pulley and a re-chip would be easy enough. However, it's never going to be as swift as my 400cc bike (let alone my other half's 1100...) so I've not bothered.
@bolidemichael indeed! I still have more fun round track on my 400 than I did on my 1000! Just hilarious in the way it felt, cornered, and went around the outside of larger bikes!
Anyway, back to the G60 - managed to get a little bit of work done over the weekend - gave it a wash (nothing special there), but also tried to look at some of the issues I've been having...
The wipers on the Corrado are notoriously poor - a combination of the slant of the windscreen and the weaker springs on the wiper arms, means that clearing the windscreen of water is not their forte. A common modification used to be fitting the arms from the Lupo GTI, however, that's now stupidly expensive, so I chose the other modification... Pull the wiper arms off and break out the 'I can't believe it's not a Dremmel' and file down the stops...
In theory, this will allow the existing spring to pull the wiper harder onto the screen, meaning it might actually prove effective above 60mph....
I also started looking for the electrical gremlins that are causing the clock needles to twitch at random. Starting with the battery negative terminal, I cleaned the contacts on all earths using emery paper and contact cleaner. The one behind the battery, the one on the passenger bulkhead that connects to the rocker cover, the one on the water pump, and crucially a large multi earth point on the inside of the drivers wing which was corroded....
This was a swine to get at, but once I realised it would come out easily, cleaning it became simple! One 10mm nut later....
Crusty!
Having done all of this yesterday, I took it out this evening (when it was wet) to see if there was any change....
Well, the wipers are better. Not GOOD ,but better. They now clear the screen above 60mph, and after that, I can use Rainex, so not all bad. I might file down a little more and look as shorter springs though....
As the the dial twitch - no change unfortunately. I thought it was fine, but then did what it normally does, waited for 30 minutes until it was warm, and then started sporadically twitching. Bugger.
It might be related to the intermittent wiper setting though, so the next step is to take the steering wheel off and look at the stalk connections.
On a related note, I had a ball driving it round the north ring road. It was wet, and I managed to get a full wheel spin to the limiter in second moment coming off the roundabout and putting my foot down. Not entirely planned, but hilarious nonetheless! I was a lot more gentle on the next roundabout, which (back to @Tommie38) highlighted exactly how good that chassis is!
@griffin dai - this seems to follow on nicely... Performance wise, well, its not as quick in a straight line and the noise isn't as good, but in terms of A & B road performance in the real world, I think that the G60 holds its own very well. In standard form it's 30 hp down on the VR6, but about 100kg lighter (I think), although the gearbox means that it loses out on the 0-60 time as it only hits 58 in second.... Number top trumps aside - having had both on track, I thought the G60 felt less nose heavy, and if I wanted to, releasing that extra 30hp through a smaller pulley and a re-chip would be easy enough. However, it's never going to be as swift as my 400cc bike (let alone my other half's 1100...) so I've not bothered.
@bolidemichael indeed! I still have more fun round track on my 400 than I did on my 1000! Just hilarious in the way it felt, cornered, and went around the outside of larger bikes!
Anyway, back to the G60 - managed to get a little bit of work done over the weekend - gave it a wash (nothing special there), but also tried to look at some of the issues I've been having...
The wipers on the Corrado are notoriously poor - a combination of the slant of the windscreen and the weaker springs on the wiper arms, means that clearing the windscreen of water is not their forte. A common modification used to be fitting the arms from the Lupo GTI, however, that's now stupidly expensive, so I chose the other modification... Pull the wiper arms off and break out the 'I can't believe it's not a Dremmel' and file down the stops...
In theory, this will allow the existing spring to pull the wiper harder onto the screen, meaning it might actually prove effective above 60mph....
I also started looking for the electrical gremlins that are causing the clock needles to twitch at random. Starting with the battery negative terminal, I cleaned the contacts on all earths using emery paper and contact cleaner. The one behind the battery, the one on the passenger bulkhead that connects to the rocker cover, the one on the water pump, and crucially a large multi earth point on the inside of the drivers wing which was corroded....
This was a swine to get at, but once I realised it would come out easily, cleaning it became simple! One 10mm nut later....
Crusty!
Having done all of this yesterday, I took it out this evening (when it was wet) to see if there was any change....
Well, the wipers are better. Not GOOD ,but better. They now clear the screen above 60mph, and after that, I can use Rainex, so not all bad. I might file down a little more and look as shorter springs though....
As the the dial twitch - no change unfortunately. I thought it was fine, but then did what it normally does, waited for 30 minutes until it was warm, and then started sporadically twitching. Bugger.
It might be related to the intermittent wiper setting though, so the next step is to take the steering wheel off and look at the stalk connections.
On a related note, I had a ball driving it round the north ring road. It was wet, and I managed to get a full wheel spin to the limiter in second moment coming off the roundabout and putting my foot down. Not entirely planned, but hilarious nonetheless! I was a lot more gentle on the next roundabout, which (back to @Tommie38) highlighted exactly how good that chassis is!
bolidemichael said:
As for the rainX, go for a proper hydrophobic coating and you'll negate the requirement for wipers over 40mph. Angelwax or GTechniq.
Thanks for that - sounds good, I’ll get some and give it a try!A very minor update - no photos as (whisper it) I paid someone else to do it due to a shortage of time. The shame.
I’ve mentioned I have trust issues when it comes to garages, but I’ve used this chap before, so fingers crossed. I bought the parts and he fitted them too, which is a great bonus, but he is an old school mechanic with an interest in old stuff (he has a Jag hearse, a Calibra and a few other interesting things).
New rear wheel bearings, disks and pads supplied by me, labour, swearing and trouble getting the rear brakes bled up supplied by him. You know what? For £80, I’m more than happy.
Car feels much nicer (although I’ve only been across town) but that might be just not having the hum of a pair of knackered wheel bearings accompanying my every move....
All good with the replaced wheel bearings, the car still feels a delight to drive.
However, I have been having to top up the cooling system. I wondered if I'd made an error with the cooling system, perhaps not having tightened up a clamp, but no Fortunately (?) it's not the clamps, but another component.
In standard form the oil 'cooler' allows the oil and water to mix next to each other, and is attached to the block,and the oil filter spins on to it. It looks like it's failed as there's signs of emulsification on the surface (although thankfully no obvious mixing in the oil or the coolant).
I had the same failure on a Passat (and possibly a Mk2 Golf too), and the part isn't expensive (about £20). I did think about deleting it when I put a propoer oil cooler in a number of years ago, but it actually still serves a purpose. It actually warms through the oil nicely as I think the coolant comes up to temperature more swiftly. I'll get it replaced shortly, although it's a pain to do as the bumper will need to come off as some idiot put an oil cooler in the way....
However, I have been having to top up the cooling system. I wondered if I'd made an error with the cooling system, perhaps not having tightened up a clamp, but no Fortunately (?) it's not the clamps, but another component.
In standard form the oil 'cooler' allows the oil and water to mix next to each other, and is attached to the block,and the oil filter spins on to it. It looks like it's failed as there's signs of emulsification on the surface (although thankfully no obvious mixing in the oil or the coolant).
I had the same failure on a Passat (and possibly a Mk2 Golf too), and the part isn't expensive (about £20). I did think about deleting it when I put a propoer oil cooler in a number of years ago, but it actually still serves a purpose. It actually warms through the oil nicely as I think the coolant comes up to temperature more swiftly. I'll get it replaced shortly, although it's a pain to do as the bumper will need to come off as some idiot put an oil cooler in the way....
'Get it replaced shortly' has unfortunately become 'get it to a garage at short notice as it overheated when stuck in traffic for 45 minutes.'
Getting pressure tested this week which will hopefully prove the weak link to be the cooler and not the HG.
On the plus side, it's given us the opportunity to borrow back an old friend while the investigations are conducted...
The AX is back!
Getting pressure tested this week which will hopefully prove the weak link to be the cooler and not the HG.
On the plus side, it's given us the opportunity to borrow back an old friend while the investigations are conducted...
The AX is back!
@rickygolf83 thanks man. It was not terrible news, although slightly embarrassing....
Having investigated, pressure tested the system, the good news is that the HG hasn’t gone yet...and neither has the oil cooler. Turns out one of the bottom hose clips wasn’t on to the rally spec ‘FT’ and the system pressurised to the point of allowing some coolant to leak out.
This is this first time it’s done this since replacing all the hoses, and likely related to the fact that the fuse for the second stage fan speed had blown. A combination of exceptional traffic and a blown fuse then. Still annoying, but I’m glad it was nothing worse.
Having investigated, pressure tested the system, the good news is that the HG hasn’t gone yet...and neither has the oil cooler. Turns out one of the bottom hose clips wasn’t on to the rally spec ‘FT’ and the system pressurised to the point of allowing some coolant to leak out.
This is this first time it’s done this since replacing all the hoses, and likely related to the fact that the fuse for the second stage fan speed had blown. A combination of exceptional traffic and a blown fuse then. Still annoying, but I’m glad it was nothing worse.
One of the advantages of being on my 4th Corrado is that some problems that crop up have been seen before...
For example, when the headlights stopped working on high beam on a twisty back road in North Yorkshire in winter, with a corner approaching, once the immediate problem of illuminating the road was solved, I knew where to look...
The upgraded headlight loom that I installed a number of years ago was the most likely candidate, as its an addition to the existing circuit and not seamlessly integrated. I remembered that it had pulled a similar trick (taking the dipped lights away that time) on a previous Corrado.
Yup, same problem:
New (waterproof) relays on order, and I'll keep the one that's not completely knackered as a spare.
There's also a road speed related hum from the front wheels (I think). Having jacked the car up, the wheels don't spin freely, so it's either a sticking caliper, or the front bearings. It doesn't feel like it's grumbling, so I'll check the calipers first...
For example, when the headlights stopped working on high beam on a twisty back road in North Yorkshire in winter, with a corner approaching, once the immediate problem of illuminating the road was solved, I knew where to look...
The upgraded headlight loom that I installed a number of years ago was the most likely candidate, as its an addition to the existing circuit and not seamlessly integrated. I remembered that it had pulled a similar trick (taking the dipped lights away that time) on a previous Corrado.
Yup, same problem:
New (waterproof) relays on order, and I'll keep the one that's not completely knackered as a spare.
There's also a road speed related hum from the front wheels (I think). Having jacked the car up, the wheels don't spin freely, so it's either a sticking caliper, or the front bearings. It doesn't feel like it's grumbling, so I'll check the calipers first...
@bolidemichael, the additional loom for the lights was bought as a unit (one of the first things I did of I recall!). While I sealed it in a sandwich tub to keep out any splash, this looks like condensation induced corrosion, and I didn't think it would have been too much of an issue at the time. Live and learn!
I think I will add the relays to the annual service inspection list though....
I think I will add the relays to the annual service inspection list though....
Thanks @bolidemichael and @Spinakerr for the suggestions. The new units are in and treated with some ACF50 which I use on the bike for winter riding. I like the look of the Bilt Hamber stuff though and I think that the underside of the Corrado and the Morris have a date with their underseal...
Of course in fitting the replacements, there was some head scratching as to whether I'd wired up the N/S headlight relay correctly. I had, it's just that I'd also blown the high beam and the sidelight. Luckily the headlight unit is 2 8mm bolts and a Philips screw to remove it.
All (hopefully) ready for moving us about over Christmas!
Of course in fitting the replacements, there was some head scratching as to whether I'd wired up the N/S headlight relay correctly. I had, it's just that I'd also blown the high beam and the sidelight. Luckily the headlight unit is 2 8mm bolts and a Philips screw to remove it.
All (hopefully) ready for moving us about over Christmas!
@Spinakerr - will do thanks, I've really enjoyed following your Triumph thread, so I look forward to checking it out.
@okenemem thanks - still more work to do but I'll get there....
Speaking of which, despite proving the overheating was a loose hose, I'm still pretty sure that the old oil cooler is leaking, so I've ordered as replacement along with oil and filter to go with it.
So far, I have the oil and the cooler, but I'm missing the filter, and the most important part - the new front wheel bearings and hubs.
The Corrado got me to London and back for a shift on Boxing Day (secure parking in the middle of London was a definite bonus while on a 14 hour day), however the front wheel bearings are really not happy.
Once the parts have arrived, then I have a friendly garage who will fit them for me if I don't have time or inclination. I also have plans to polybush the suspension, but we'll see how that goes... Not sure how easy pressing the old ones out will be....
@okenemem thanks - still more work to do but I'll get there....
Speaking of which, despite proving the overheating was a loose hose, I'm still pretty sure that the old oil cooler is leaking, so I've ordered as replacement along with oil and filter to go with it.
So far, I have the oil and the cooler, but I'm missing the filter, and the most important part - the new front wheel bearings and hubs.
The Corrado got me to London and back for a shift on Boxing Day (secure parking in the middle of London was a definite bonus while on a 14 hour day), however the front wheel bearings are really not happy.
Once the parts have arrived, then I have a friendly garage who will fit them for me if I don't have time or inclination. I also have plans to polybush the suspension, but we'll see how that goes... Not sure how easy pressing the old ones out will be....
The new front wheel bearings and hubs went on, although from the garage report, I'm glad I gave it to Mick to do... Tales of woe from siezed bolts, although apparently the hubs were the one thing that were fine! The handbrake mechanism and brake balance mechanism are not enjoying being parked on the street though, and are seizing up, so more regular applications of lubrication are required (along with just parking in gear).
I've still not got to replacing the oil cooler, although now the clocks have changed, I might be able to have an hour or two on it in the evenings. With the current situation however, work is busier then ever, so we'll see....
The priority this weekend however was fishing the driver's door handle, which, rather embarrassingly broke as I was trying to get back into it on the hard shoulder of the M62. At night. Really not ideal having to open it from inside and shove it far enough so that it stayed open while hoping it didn't get taken out by a truck....
Still, I've been here before. 5 years ago checking the thread (blimey), so I ordered another repair kit, slightly annoyed that the first one hadn't lasted as long as I'd hoped, and got to work....
Glad I had the thread from last time when I'd done 3 screws and thought they was it. Although, in case they're is a next time, the way to pry the inner handle off to reveal the screws is like this..
Eventually, we got to this:
Which wasn't broken, just sticking really badly. Excellent result. Lots of oil and grease later and it wasn't sticking any more. Bloody marvellous, job done...
Reassembled the whole lot...to find it didn't work. Oh. Lots of head scratching, peering through the door seeing it operate the latch mechanism, taking it out, double checking it eventually resulted in me spotting this :
A small piece of the mechanism has broken off, meaning the return spring returns the striker a far as it can because there is nothing to stop it. While the mechanism now moves beautifully, the striker doesn't depress the latch far enough to open the door. Most annoying.
Possibly more annoying is the fact that a single replacement handle appears to go for £70+ secondhand online, with presumably the same amount of wear and fatigue.
A trawl of my memory resulted in me thinking about the popular 'de-locked passat handle' modification from 20 years ago (back when alarms were manadatory for insurance). A little research into part numbers suggests that while a pair of B3 Passat handles won't work as they are (the strikers are the wrong way round), the strikers are a straight swap (with some drilling of course).
They're also £8 for a pair of new handles with 2 keys. Bargain. Good job I bought those striker pins after all then. Looks like that's my job for the Easter weekend then!
I've still not got to replacing the oil cooler, although now the clocks have changed, I might be able to have an hour or two on it in the evenings. With the current situation however, work is busier then ever, so we'll see....
The priority this weekend however was fishing the driver's door handle, which, rather embarrassingly broke as I was trying to get back into it on the hard shoulder of the M62. At night. Really not ideal having to open it from inside and shove it far enough so that it stayed open while hoping it didn't get taken out by a truck....
Still, I've been here before. 5 years ago checking the thread (blimey), so I ordered another repair kit, slightly annoyed that the first one hadn't lasted as long as I'd hoped, and got to work....
Glad I had the thread from last time when I'd done 3 screws and thought they was it. Although, in case they're is a next time, the way to pry the inner handle off to reveal the screws is like this..
Eventually, we got to this:
Which wasn't broken, just sticking really badly. Excellent result. Lots of oil and grease later and it wasn't sticking any more. Bloody marvellous, job done...
Reassembled the whole lot...to find it didn't work. Oh. Lots of head scratching, peering through the door seeing it operate the latch mechanism, taking it out, double checking it eventually resulted in me spotting this :
A small piece of the mechanism has broken off, meaning the return spring returns the striker a far as it can because there is nothing to stop it. While the mechanism now moves beautifully, the striker doesn't depress the latch far enough to open the door. Most annoying.
Possibly more annoying is the fact that a single replacement handle appears to go for £70+ secondhand online, with presumably the same amount of wear and fatigue.
A trawl of my memory resulted in me thinking about the popular 'de-locked passat handle' modification from 20 years ago (back when alarms were manadatory for insurance). A little research into part numbers suggests that while a pair of B3 Passat handles won't work as they are (the strikers are the wrong way round), the strikers are a straight swap (with some drilling of course).
They're also £8 for a pair of new handles with 2 keys. Bargain. Good job I bought those striker pins after all then. Looks like that's my job for the Easter weekend then!
@MightyBadger very nice! I have (mostly) fond memories of both of my 16v Corrados, the 1.8 handled particularly well (but I think that was the suspension tweaks more than the motor...)
I was almost tempted to pick up another valver when they were going for a song - kicking myself now that I didn’t!
I was almost tempted to pick up another valver when they were going for a song - kicking myself now that I didn’t!
A very busy Easter weekend on site and dealing with an incident yesterday meant I only got to the handle investigation today.
Here are the pair for comparison where you can see the difference in the striker pins:
The plan was to drill out the pin holding the striker and just swap it over. Unfortunately, it wasn't as simple as that...
There are other differences to the handles (I suspect the replacement Passat handle is a cheap knock off which won't help).
The mount for the locking mechanism as well as the mechanism itself are slightly different.
Fine, I'll remove the circlip and swap them.
Oh wait, the spring that is crucial to the operation of the handle is also different.
Ok, I'll swap that as well with the old spring.
Oh, the body of the Passat handle by the striker is slightly (2mm) thicker so it won't work without filling it down....
Oh, and the metal piece that had also failed in the old handle is different in he new one, but should still work right....
At this point however, I did what I should have done in the first place. Extricate the metal part from both, and just swap the new one for the broken one and then resemble the old handle with this part in it. I only realised this of course having spent hours tackling each new obstacle!
It was one of those jobs that needed a lot of unconventional tools and a bit of lateral thinking. I used a cheap cycling chain link splitter, g-clamp with and without the flexible foot, picks, punches and a drill. In truth though, I could have done without the drill if it's chosen the correct course of action in the first place of course.
In the end though, it's now assembled and back on the car, and the door handle action is the best it's ever been since I've owned it! Good thing too given the time and effort, but I'm pleased the repair was only £8 not £70+
Here are the pair for comparison where you can see the difference in the striker pins:
The plan was to drill out the pin holding the striker and just swap it over. Unfortunately, it wasn't as simple as that...
There are other differences to the handles (I suspect the replacement Passat handle is a cheap knock off which won't help).
The mount for the locking mechanism as well as the mechanism itself are slightly different.
Fine, I'll remove the circlip and swap them.
Oh wait, the spring that is crucial to the operation of the handle is also different.
Ok, I'll swap that as well with the old spring.
Oh, the body of the Passat handle by the striker is slightly (2mm) thicker so it won't work without filling it down....
Oh, and the metal piece that had also failed in the old handle is different in he new one, but should still work right....
At this point however, I did what I should have done in the first place. Extricate the metal part from both, and just swap the new one for the broken one and then resemble the old handle with this part in it. I only realised this of course having spent hours tackling each new obstacle!
It was one of those jobs that needed a lot of unconventional tools and a bit of lateral thinking. I used a cheap cycling chain link splitter, g-clamp with and without the flexible foot, picks, punches and a drill. In truth though, I could have done without the drill if it's chosen the correct course of action in the first place of course.
In the end though, it's now assembled and back on the car, and the door handle action is the best it's ever been since I've owned it! Good thing too given the time and effort, but I'm pleased the repair was only £8 not £70+
@Spinakerr, thank you. It does make it seem worthwhile when it all goes back together smoothly (no matter how long it's taken!)
With the door handle fixed and the car roadworthy again, they meant I could go out on site.... It's a rare thing to take the Corrado to work, we're usually supplied with a tracked, limited (possibly auto) diesel, always in white and suitably adorned in company livery. These really are white goods and are terribly dull to drive, so this made a nice change!
It also managed to highlight another issue that needs fixing... My colleague in the car behind pointed out that he thought my exhaust was hanging a little low, and sure enough, when we got to the next site, there was a scraping noise as I parked up....
(No the bridge isn't in good condition, but yes, the arch profile is mostly as built).
Despite being on the supplied hanger rubbers, it looks like that adapted 16v exhaust needs a touch more attention to get it just so!
The fuel economy reading on the MFA was also suspiciously low (20mpg} suggesting a problem with the vacuum line at the back of the clocks. Good job they needed to come out anyway in the eternal hunt for what is causing the needles to flicker!
With the door handle fixed and the car roadworthy again, they meant I could go out on site.... It's a rare thing to take the Corrado to work, we're usually supplied with a tracked, limited (possibly auto) diesel, always in white and suitably adorned in company livery. These really are white goods and are terribly dull to drive, so this made a nice change!
It also managed to highlight another issue that needs fixing... My colleague in the car behind pointed out that he thought my exhaust was hanging a little low, and sure enough, when we got to the next site, there was a scraping noise as I parked up....
(No the bridge isn't in good condition, but yes, the arch profile is mostly as built).
Despite being on the supplied hanger rubbers, it looks like that adapted 16v exhaust needs a touch more attention to get it just so!
The fuel economy reading on the MFA was also suspiciously low (20mpg} suggesting a problem with the vacuum line at the back of the clocks. Good job they needed to come out anyway in the eternal hunt for what is causing the needles to flicker!
As always thanks for the useful information all. I'll take a look at the tank straps when I investigate the exhaust further. That likely to be when I've finished painting the car shelter for the Morris, so some time next year at this rate....!
Still, as it was forecast for heavy rain this afternoon, I took a break from the painting and did a brief wash and polish and the most minor of jobs. The rear badge holding grommets. The originals has disintegrated, and I'd used motorbike fairing panel pins as a temporary measure (there was gaffer tape involved).
This made the badge stand prouder than I was happy with, so I spent 10 minutes post polish setting it back to rights:
Much better!
It's the little things that make you smile
Still, as it was forecast for heavy rain this afternoon, I took a break from the painting and did a brief wash and polish and the most minor of jobs. The rear badge holding grommets. The originals has disintegrated, and I'd used motorbike fairing panel pins as a temporary measure (there was gaffer tape involved).
This made the badge stand prouder than I was happy with, so I spent 10 minutes post polish setting it back to rights:
Much better!
It's the little things that make you smile
A few quick updates...
I obtained powerflex bushes for the exhaust, however I managed to hang them wrong in the first instance so the exhaust still rubbed on the rear beam. Blast.
Old rubbers definitely needed replacing though:
... and the new ones look much better:
I also decided to tackle the leaking heat exchanger /oil cooler. Knowing that these fail and mix water and coolant, and having spotted emulsified oil previously, this seemed like a good idea.
Grill off, bumper off, oil cooler out:
There it is:
Could I do it without draining the cooling system...? Could I heck.
New versus old:
Wait a moment, what do you mean they haven't put a bloody gasket in the box? But the car is up on stands with no oil or coolant in it!
Time to improvise....
After a lot of searching and swearing, I finally found an acceptable alternative. The spare filter from a six cup stovetop espresso maker. Well, I know it will cope with temperature and pressure!
Also tweaked a couple of the hangers on the centre box to get it a bit higher :
New air filter, oil and filter and coolant recycled back in (it is only 6 months old) and time for a test drive.
Bloody brilliant fun, I remember why I love this car on damp bits of the ring road! The exhaust isn't rubbing any more either... for at least 30 minutes. Arse.
Time to see if powerflex will honour that lifetime warranty....
I obtained powerflex bushes for the exhaust, however I managed to hang them wrong in the first instance so the exhaust still rubbed on the rear beam. Blast.
Old rubbers definitely needed replacing though:
... and the new ones look much better:
I also decided to tackle the leaking heat exchanger /oil cooler. Knowing that these fail and mix water and coolant, and having spotted emulsified oil previously, this seemed like a good idea.
Grill off, bumper off, oil cooler out:
There it is:
Could I do it without draining the cooling system...? Could I heck.
New versus old:
Wait a moment, what do you mean they haven't put a bloody gasket in the box? But the car is up on stands with no oil or coolant in it!
Time to improvise....
After a lot of searching and swearing, I finally found an acceptable alternative. The spare filter from a six cup stovetop espresso maker. Well, I know it will cope with temperature and pressure!
Also tweaked a couple of the hangers on the centre box to get it a bit higher :
New air filter, oil and filter and coolant recycled back in (it is only 6 months old) and time for a test drive.
Bloody brilliant fun, I remember why I love this car on damp bits of the ring road!
The exhaust isn't rubbing any more either... for at least 30 minutes. Arse. Time to see if powerflex will honour that lifetime warranty....
Edited by darkyoung1000 on Monday 20th July 07:10
Thanks for the comments all, nice to combine my love of cars and coffee, although perhaps not in the way originally planned....
chrismc1977, nice to know its not just me I suppose.... Really not impressed with them as the second one on the centre mount went today as well. I'm going to refit the old rubber ones tonight as a temporary measure.
In better news, the run out from York to Filey today didn't leave any puddles under the car, so the power of the coffee gasket has been tested! It was also absolutely lovely to watch it being driven along sweeping roads! A couple of things struck me - it's still handsome (yes I'm biased); it's really not that large compared to modern cars; and it's not slow for in great acceleration.....
I was watching because I was on this newly acquired machine:
Absolutely marvellous run out!
chrismc1977, nice to know its not just me I suppose.... Really not impressed with them as the second one on the centre mount went today as well. I'm going to refit the old rubber ones tonight as a temporary measure.
In better news, the run out from York to Filey today didn't leave any puddles under the car, so the power of the coffee gasket has been tested! It was also absolutely lovely to watch it being driven along sweeping roads! A couple of things struck me - it's still handsome (yes I'm biased); it's really not that large compared to modern cars; and it's not slow for in great acceleration.....
I was watching because I was on this newly acquired machine:
Absolutely marvellous run out!
Edited by darkyoung1000 on Tuesday 21st July 07:26
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