98RON or 95RON

Author
Discussion

PAV911

128 posts

179 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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I have been using BP Ultimate. Anyone else using this also?!

Sunnysidebb

1,373 posts

168 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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yep I do, 97 octane and some times its all you can get Esso is the same. I have always used Super my Cosworths needed it even more than my 996tt.
I,m interested in what JPJPJP said clapabout Tesco fuel being 99 will have to look at the Tesco in our area, if so that would be great. Its hard finding Shell V power in some areas.smile

Appyarry

165 posts

182 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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I don't think Ron being 95, 98 or even 99 really matters, if you put him in my turbo at his age he's gonna be pretty bloody shakey when he gets out!!!!

Tino

1,948 posts

284 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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Sunnysidebb said:
Absolutely.

Your Car is set up for 98 ron from the factory . Use Shell V power its the only one that is 98. ESSO & BP are 97 ron.

Your Ecu will have adapted its self to 95 and will have set the timing accordingly to stop any detonation so you wont notice the difference at first. Eventually the ECU will adapt to the 98 Octane but its going to take a very long time( 100 engine cycles I think corect me if i'm wrong). So long as you know your radio/ PCM code disconnect the battery with the key in position 1 ( stops alarm sounding) and the ECU will re-set the adaption values to the factory setting. You will notice a difference then.

Frank
I thought that you could turn the ignition on for 10 secs, and then off for 3, or something similiar, to reset adaptations.
Though, if engine cycles means what I think, at 200rpm, its not gonna take long to go through 100 revs

Greenwich Ross

1,219 posts

174 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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"V-Power - Ferrari fuel for your car"

Boo!

Wills2

23,091 posts

176 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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Sunnysidebb said:
Nano2nd said:
Sunnysidebb said:
Absolutely.

Your Car is set up for 98 ron from the factory . Use Shell V power its the only one that is 98. ESSO & BP are 97 ron.

Your Ecu will have adapted its self to 95 and will have set the timing accordingly to stop any detonation so you wont notice the difference at first. Eventually the ECU will adapt to the 98 Octane but its going to take a very long time( 100 engine cycles I think corect me if i'm wrong). So long as you know your radio/ PCM code disconnect the battery with the key in position 1 ( stops alarm sounding) and the ECU will re-set the adaption values to the factory setting. You will notice a difference then.

Frank
are your sure? so if you use one tank of 95ron coz they've sold out of v power u need to start you engine 100 times before it goes back to 98ron mode? that sounds like horse **** to me
Read up on the ECU and adaptivity also check out what 100 cycles means and it not starting the car 100 times either.
Its up to you, you wont harm the car using 95 ron it will look after its self but don't think it will restore any timing that it has pulled as soon as you put 98 in the tank. Its not even going to loos megga horse power but you wont get the best fuel consumption and it wont pull quite as well. I have some Millers octane improver just in case I cant get 97 super up in the highland and islands.
As I have said have a read up on the topic, better still have a chat with your Porsche dealer. They can also reset the nominal Factory values. However they wont condone using 95 octane fuel.

Edited by Sunnysidebb on Thursday 3rd June 23:01
I'm not sure I or others understand what you are saying could you expand a little? Please explain 100 cycles? Octane improvers do nothing they've been tested and give nothing in the way of improved performance, and as for what your OPC will say about 95RON well mine said there is no problem using it you'll just get lower performance it even states 98/95ron on the fuel filler cap!

nxi20

778 posts

206 months

Friday 4th June 2010
quotequote all
Tino said:
Sunnysidebb said:
Absolutely.

Your Car is set up for 98 ron from the factory . Use Shell V power its the only one that is 98. ESSO & BP are 97 ron.

Your Ecu will have adapted its self to 95 and will have set the timing accordingly to stop any detonation so you wont notice the difference at first. Eventually the ECU will adapt to the 98 Octane but its going to take a very long time( 100 engine cycles I think corect me if i'm wrong). So long as you know your radio/ PCM code disconnect the battery with the key in position 1 ( stops alarm sounding) and the ECU will re-set the adaption values to the factory setting. You will notice a difference then.

Frank
I thought that you could turn the ignition on for 10 secs, and then off for 3, or something similiar, to reset adaptations.
Though, if engine cycles means what I think, at 200rpm, its not gonna take long to go through 100 revs
No, it's actually ignition on for 1 minute - do NOT touch the throttle - then off & start within 10 seconds. I find it best to do this when the engine is already warm & then go for a 20 minute run over mixed road conditions.

davek_964

8,873 posts

176 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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nxi20 said:
No, it's actually ignition on for 1 minute - do NOT touch the throttle - then off & start within 10 seconds. I find it best to do this when the engine is already warm & then go for a 20 minute run over mixed road conditions.
Is this true? I thought that you had to turn off the ignition for at least 10s, not less than 10s?

Wills2

23,091 posts

176 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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davek_964 said:
nxi20 said:
No, it's actually ignition on for 1 minute - do NOT touch the throttle - then off & start within 10 seconds. I find it best to do this when the engine is already warm & then go for a 20 minute run over mixed road conditions.
Is this true? I thought that you had to turn off the ignition for at least 10s, not less than 10s?
Surely the knock sensor would detect the differing fuel grades and adapt timing accordingly

Sunnysidebb

1,373 posts

168 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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The reset cycle has been covered.
If you drive your car hard on 95 it will adapt to that fuel. Millers does work. It wont give you power if the car dos,t require the octane rating. The higher the octane rating of a fuel the lower the specific energy that fuel has. However its ability to stop detonation increases which means you can run more advancement and boost curves. Reversely, if your car has adapted its advance curve to 98 fuel and you give it "what for especially on a hot day" on 95 then the ECU will play safe and pull back what iggnition it thinks is necessary. If you put Octane improver into 95 and bring it up to 97 or 98 it wont pull out as much timing. More timing better or should I say original response and power.
Putting octane improver into 98 or 99 fuel will not do a thing unless your car is modded and been mapped to run on a high octane rating for eg 100. Again if you run 98 on a program written for 100 it will pull back timing.
If you have gone to all the effort to run such mods or why compromise on the fuel you put in it. Same goes with a standard 996tt run the best fuel available which is Shell V Power. My 2002 996tt says 98 RON super unleaded only in German and English.

Incidental my Cosworth Rally car ran Super 97 and 10% Toluene.The anti lag was so aggressive and produced so much heat it needed it. The ecu I had did not run a knock sensor so it wouldn't pull timing.T he first you would know of a problem is a hole in the piston from detonation.
And before you say you can hear detonation there are 2 types. Low rev det which you can hear and high rev detonation which you cant.



Edited by Sunnysidebb on Friday 4th June 10:30

Dr S

4,999 posts

227 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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I used to run v-Power on my old 997S for years. Eventually I switched to 95 (after a trip to Italy where 98 is hard to get) and found that the mpg actually improved with the lower octane fuel

Wills2

23,091 posts

176 months

Friday 4th June 2010
quotequote all
Sunnysidebb said:
The reset cycle has been covered.
If you drive your car hard on 95 it will adapt to that fuel. Millers does work. It wont give you power if the car dos,t require the octane rating. The higher the octane rating of a fuel the lower the specific energy that fuel has. However its ability to stop detonation increases which means you can run more advancement and boost curves. Reversely, if your car has adapted its advance curve to 98 fuel and you give it "what for especially on a hot day" on 95 then the ECU will play safe and pull back what iggnition it thinks is necessary. If you put Octane improver into 95 and bring it up to 97 or 98 it wont pull out as much timing. More timing better or should I say original response and power.
Putting octane improver into 98 or 99 fuel will not do a thing unless your car is modded and been mapped to run on a high octane rating for eg 100. Again if you run 98 on a program written for 100 it will pull back timing.
If you have gone to all the effort to run such mods or why compromise on the fuel you put in it. Same goes with a standard 996tt run the best fuel available which is Shell V Power. My 2002 996tt says 98 RON super unleaded only in German and English.

Incidental my Cosworth Rally car ran Super 97 and 10% Toluene.The anti lag was so aggressive and produced so much heat it needed it. The ecu I had did not run a knock sensor so it wouldn't pull timing.T he first you would know of a problem is a hole in the piston from detonation.
And before you say you can hear detonation there are 2 types. Low rev det which you can hear and high rev detonation which you cant.



Edited by Sunnysidebb on Friday 4th June 10:30
Interesting, But I still maintain my car can detect the fuel grade used and then retard/advance accordingly for 95/98 ron fuel and no secret society rituals are needed,

The engine will detect via the knock sensor what fuel you have and adjust itself accordingly.

You are IMHO wasting money on Octane booster's but heh it's your money biggrin

neilski

2,563 posts

236 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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V-Power every time.

I used to have an Audi TT that would do 400 miles to a tank on regular unleaded but 500 on V-Power so the extra 7p / litre actually worked out cheaper in the long run. (I was doing big miles for work so economy mattered.)

But surely you didn't buy the porker for economy? If you're only sticking cooking petrol in you're not getting the full potential out of the engine that's designed to run on super UL.

AndrewMontgomery

471 posts

196 months

Friday 4th June 2010
quotequote all
nxi20 said:
Tino said:
Sunnysidebb said:
Absolutely.

Your Car is set up for 98 ron from the factory . Use Shell V power its the only one that is 98. ESSO & BP are 97 ron.

Your Ecu will have adapted its self to 95 and will have set the timing accordingly to stop any detonation so you wont notice the difference at first. Eventually the ECU will adapt to the 98 Octane but its going to take a very long time( 100 engine cycles I think corect me if i'm wrong). So long as you know your radio/ PCM code disconnect the battery with the key in position 1 ( stops alarm sounding) and the ECU will re-set the adaption values to the factory setting. You will notice a difference then.

Frank
I thought that you could turn the ignition on for 10 secs, and then off for 3, or something similiar, to reset adaptations.
Though, if engine cycles means what I think, at 200rpm, its not gonna take long to go through 100 revs
No, it's actually ignition on for 1 minute - do NOT touch the throttle - then off & start within 10 seconds. I find it best to do this when the engine is already warm & then go for a 20 minute run over mixed road conditions.
Presumably it would be better to do this after using a full tank of the newer fuel and then refuelling again as if you are adding the newer stuff to a tank that isnt totally empty there will be a mix of fuel grades and the older stuff in the fuel pump?

Oh, and living in Northern Ireland, which apparently requires no 98 ron fuel (its the Dark Ages here it seems) I have to use 97 ron. Is there a significant difference between this and 98 in a 996TT?

Sunnysidebb

1,373 posts

168 months

Friday 4th June 2010
quotequote all
Wills2 said:
Sunnysidebb said:
The reset cycle has been covered.
If you drive your car hard on 95 it will adapt to that fuel. Millers does work. It wont give you power if the car dos,t require the octane rating. The higher the octane rating of a fuel the lower the specific energy that fuel has. However its ability to stop detonation increases which means you can run more advancement and boost curves. Reversely, if your car has adapted its advance curve to 98 fuel and you give it "what for especially on a hot day" on 95 then the ECU will play safe and pull back what iggnition it thinks is necessary. If you put Octane improver into 95 and bring it up to 97 or 98 it wont pull out as much timing. More timing better or should I say original response and power.
Putting octane improver into 98 or 99 fuel will not do a thing unless your car is modded and been mapped to run on a high octane rating for eg 100. Again if you run 98 on a program written for 100 it will pull back timing.
If you have gone to all the effort to run such mods or why compromise on the fuel you put in it. Same goes with a standard 996tt run the best fuel available which is Shell V Power. My 2002 996tt says 98 RON super unleaded only in German and English.

Incidental my Cosworth Rally car ran Super 97 and 10% Toluene.The anti lag was so aggressive and produced so much heat it needed it. The ecu I had did not run a knock sensor so it wouldn't pull timing.T he first you would know of a problem is a hole in the piston from detonation.
And before you say you can hear detonation there are 2 types. Low rev det which you can hear and high rev detonation which you cant.



Edited by Sunnysidebb on Friday 4th June 10:30
Interesting, But I still maintain my car can detect the fuel grade used and then retard/advance accordingly for 95/98 ron fuel and no secret society rituals are needed,

The engine will detect via the knock sensor what fuel you have and adjust itself accordingly.

You are IMHO wasting money on Octane booster's but heh it's your money biggrin
The point is if you use the super unleaded you dont have to use Octane improvers. Dont get hung up on Octane improvers I mentioned it as an egample as to the requirement for octane and what can be done if you cant get super and only 95. I would run 95 without worry but I would reset the adaptive values next time I was in a maintenece mood. Simple.
You are correct about paying and making choices.
I, amongst many others will naturally opt for V Power.
And yes your car detects lower grade fuel automatically and retards/pulls iggnition instantly to a safe level and yes it returns the level back to norm, but very very slowly. It samples very small degrees to assertain if the problem that caused the knok in the first place has been removed. Its a slow process of inching back the iggnition amongst other values.

Edited by Sunnysidebb on Friday 4th June 11:59

anonymous-user

55 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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Here is some blurb about the tesco SUL 99, made by Greenergy

www.greenergy.com/tesco_99_octane/index.html

they talk a good story

Sunnysidebb

1,373 posts

168 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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I wonder how many on PH have used it. Would be interesting to find out views.

Mario149

7,767 posts

179 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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nxi20 said:
No, it's actually ignition on for 1 minute - do NOT touch the throttle - then off & start within 10 seconds. I find it best to do this when the engine is already warm & then go for a 20 minute run over mixed road conditions.
That doesn't work for all 996s/986s. Earlier ones with a different engine management thingy have to have a few fuses pulled for 30s, or battery disconnected if memory serves. Also, it seems that the engine management thingy will only ever retard ignition for lower octane fuel, it'll never advance it if you go back to 98 RON or whatever (there were engineering reasons behind it, I forget though). For what it's worth, I did it to my 996 and it seemed to develop a bit more mid range grunt so I used to do a reset every month or so

There's a detailed thread on this in PorscheClubGB forums which is worth digging out

lynchygt3

633 posts

184 months

Friday 4th June 2010
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Appyarry said:
I don't think Ron being 95, 98 or even 99 really matters, if you put him in my turbo at his age he's gonna be pretty bloody shakey when he gets out!!!!
smile

red_slr

17,365 posts

190 months

Friday 4th June 2010
quotequote all
Re the cossie - did you not run a knock link then? Any megaturbotutter car I have seen thats worth its salt has one so you can see det in real time - all the time. Can save a £10k engine!

As for my car (997S), I run Tesco 99 or V-Power.

The higher the ron the slower and more complete burn you get - thus reducing pre ignition detination and meaning the car will not have to retard the timing to prevent det. The ignition of the A/F mix should happen at the correct time you see.

As such, it should make its quoted power. Big power cars can often see a 5% reduction in HP when the wrong grade fuel is used. And it will only retard so far - so it might still cause problems. Turbo cars esp....

If the car is mapped to run a certain RON then you need to run that fuel really. Less is not better I can assure you! Also, there is not really much point to running anything higher... however its quite well proven that V-Power and T-99 both go "off" quite quickly and this reduces the RON. So, as I only fill my car up about once a month I am happy to run 99RON.

I might actually do an ECU re-set on my car over the weekend as it will be interesting to see if it makes any difference.