Discussion
Montego turbo. 
The original factory fitted bulbs are in the boot. I run the after market ones simply because they are brighter, seeing and being seen is a priority over durability. As I said £3.99 a year is no hardship and if I ever do enter the car in a Rover show (
) I can put the originals in for that. 
The original factory fitted bulbs are in the boot. I run the after market ones simply because they are brighter, seeing and being seen is a priority over durability. As I said £3.99 a year is no hardship and if I ever do enter the car in a Rover show (
) I can put the originals in for that. Nothing for nine months and the bonnet was up again today. Well last night as well. Wet HT leads. 
Who's idea was it to put the coil on the inner wing next to where spray from the drivers side wheel ends up?
The HT leads are probably the original factory ones and were looking a little tired and I'm still running Fiat Panda spark plugs so I'll add those to the list of bits. Maybe find a flame thrower coil as well because I've never liked the box ones.
Who's idea was it to put the coil on the inner wing next to where spray from the drivers side wheel ends up? The HT leads are probably the original factory ones and were looking a little tired and I'm still running Fiat Panda spark plugs so I'll add those to the list of bits. Maybe find a flame thrower coil as well because I've never liked the box ones.
Edited by Liquid Knight on Friday 4th November 11:23
How decidant...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1988-ROVER-216-VDP-EFI-G...
..shame the engine's not as good as the 1.3 eh?
High mileage...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1987-Rover-216-SE-89-000...
...and pricey.
I've always liked these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-216-GTI-Honda-twin...
..but it's expensive for a "project" and I'd need my Passport to get it.
This looks nice...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-216-Coupe-White-3-...
...twelve months M.O.T and three months warantee as well.
Chav'd...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-COUPE-216-Excellen...
...but not completely ruined.
Better the Devil you know for now unless Kev' finally buys the old girl by Wednesday.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1988-ROVER-216-VDP-EFI-G...
..shame the engine's not as good as the 1.3 eh?
High mileage...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1987-Rover-216-SE-89-000...
...and pricey.
I've always liked these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-216-GTI-Honda-twin...
..but it's expensive for a "project" and I'd need my Passport to get it.
This looks nice...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-216-Coupe-White-3-...
...twelve months M.O.T and three months warantee as well.
Chav'd...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-COUPE-216-Excellen...
...but not completely ruined.
Better the Devil you know for now unless Kev' finally buys the old girl by Wednesday.
Hmmm, warm starting issues now. Cold start she's on the button, warm start I can nearly run the battery flat before she fires up. Could be where the coil got wet the other day or it could be because the car nearly ran out of petrol and I have either crap or air in the fuel filter. Can't really do much while I'm at work so it'll have to wait until Wednesday now.
New HT leads are available for £10-£30 but where's the fun in that?
Just bough these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140629010121?ssPageName=...
Just need some plug ends to go with the powerboat HT cable in my shed and I can make my own.
Just bough these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140629010121?ssPageName=...
Just need some plug ends to go with the powerboat HT cable in my shed and I can make my own.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I see. A Rover 400 with a different grille.
My SD3 is a Honda Concerto with a different grille so I can't shoot you down for it.
I had a Gunmetal Grey one. Not a bad car until someone tried driving a forklift on an icy day.
I see. A Rover 400 with a different grille.
My SD3 is a Honda Concerto with a different grille so I can't shoot you down for it.
I had a Gunmetal Grey one. Not a bad car until someone tried driving a forklift on an icy day.
Just started my new policy with "Green Insurance". Two reasons for this. Firstly they were over £1,000 cheaper than my renewal quote. Secondly they plant a load of trees to offset Carbon emmissions.
So why the t'shirt reference? They are a partner company of Qwick Fit Insurance and underwritten by Aviva. So going to a company that brokers deals for Aviva works out 10% of the price going to Aviva direct?
If you want to get a quote give them a call on 0844 8425448
If you're happy with your quote and go for it mention my postcode (via PM if you need it) and get £20 of high street vouchers as well.
I also get £20 of vouchers that would be used on beer and Jaffa Cakes.
So while I'm waiting for the new fuel pump to arrive I thought I'd run some carb' cleaner through in case I got some grit in the slow running jet.
Started the car on choke without the air box and all was normal until I let the choke off the car made the noisy fuel pump sound again and cut out. The thing is though this time it was a lot louder.
I traced the noise to this bit of pipe...
...it is a vacum pipe from the bottom of the carb that connects an air temprature probe in the airbox...
...to the cold/hot air delivery flap at the front of the airbox via this junction...
...this pipe didn't have a very good seal on the junction and it was leaking and is why I thought was the fuel pump diafram was leaking. To test this I blocked the end of the pipe with an M6 bolt and the car ran perfectly again. So it's either a leaking pipe or the plactic junction bit was knackered. I trimmed a few millimetres from the end of the pipe, put a cable tie around it...
..and made sure it was tight with a pair of pliers.
1.5p cable tie saves the day.
I'm such an idiot because it has been so long since I have worked on a carb' car that doesn't have either bike carb's a Webber or K&N style filters I'd forgotten the inner workings of a standard air box.
Started the car on choke without the air box and all was normal until I let the choke off the car made the noisy fuel pump sound again and cut out. The thing is though this time it was a lot louder.
I traced the noise to this bit of pipe...
...it is a vacum pipe from the bottom of the carb that connects an air temprature probe in the airbox...
...to the cold/hot air delivery flap at the front of the airbox via this junction...
...this pipe didn't have a very good seal on the junction and it was leaking and is why I thought was the fuel pump diafram was leaking. To test this I blocked the end of the pipe with an M6 bolt and the car ran perfectly again. So it's either a leaking pipe or the plactic junction bit was knackered. I trimmed a few millimetres from the end of the pipe, put a cable tie around it...
..and made sure it was tight with a pair of pliers.
1.5p cable tie saves the day.
I'm such an idiot because it has been so long since I have worked on a carb' car that doesn't have either bike carb's a Webber or K&N style filters I'd forgotten the inner workings of a standard air box.
Right so it isn't that either. Same symptomms today only once warm the car refused point blank to start. Good spark on all four, fuel was filling the carb' nicely and even with the air box open it would fire off sequence and stall the starter motor.
After about an hour of pilocking about I gave up and put everything back. She started first turn of the key and ticked like a well made watch again.
Got the car home turned the engine off, turned the key again and she fired up without a suggestion of throttle or choke.
Could something that was sucked up when I nearly ran out of petrol be acting like a valve against the fuel filter?
I'll replace that next.
After about an hour of pilocking about I gave up and put everything back. She started first turn of the key and ticked like a well made watch again.
Got the car home turned the engine off, turned the key again and she fired up without a suggestion of throttle or choke.
Could something that was sucked up when I nearly ran out of petrol be acting like a valve against the fuel filter?
I'll replace that next.
Replacing the fuel filter on a Rover 213S.
Up until 1987 the fuel pump had a screw in the top and an "O" ring so you could simply undo the top and clean/replace the filter mesh and if needs be pay one or two New Pence for a new "O" ring from your local plumbing suplies store. However; because my car is of 1988 vintage...
...it the newer sealed unit so the only way to change the filter is to change the pump.
Actually.
Pain in the cheeks bloody car if the new pump doesn't fix it I'm fitting a Tomcat/VVC/KV6/K1.8T/B20/B23!
While I was looking for things to swear about I took the one way valve off the main fuel line looked at it, breathed through it a few time to make sure it was working and put it back on again.
If the new pump doesn't arrive tomorrow I hope the weather's okay Saturday because I'll be cycling to work.
Up until 1987 the fuel pump had a screw in the top and an "O" ring so you could simply undo the top and clean/replace the filter mesh and if needs be pay one or two New Pence for a new "O" ring from your local plumbing suplies store. However; because my car is of 1988 vintage...
...it the newer sealed unit so the only way to change the filter is to change the pump.
Actually.
Pain in the cheeks bloody car if the new pump doesn't fix it I'm fitting a Tomcat/VVC/KV6/K1.8T/B20/B23!
While I was looking for things to swear about I took the one way valve off the main fuel line looked at it, breathed through it a few time to make sure it was working and put it back on again.
If the new pump doesn't arrive tomorrow I hope the weather's okay Saturday because I'll be cycling to work.
New pump arrived today...
..."made in Japan"
Complete with new pipe and clamps.
So take the air box off so you can access the pipework...
...and remove...
...next take the plastic cover away from the pump so you can get to the retaining nuts...
...and that's the old pump off...
...fit the new pump in place...
...plumb in the new pipework...
...I fitted an inline filter for reassurance (the filter cost more than the new pump)...
...I then started the car without the air box to make sure all of the pipework was sealed. Put the air box back on as the car appeared to be back to normal (when cold I never had any trouble anyway).
Drove the car to the shop and was a bit spluttery all the way there and failed to start for a ten minutes after I had been in the shop for five minutes. Once eventually started if the rpm dropped below 1000 the engine would cut out and not start again. Grrrrr! Next.
..."made in Japan"
Complete with new pipe and clamps.
So take the air box off so you can access the pipework...
...and remove...
...next take the plastic cover away from the pump so you can get to the retaining nuts...
...and that's the old pump off...
...fit the new pump in place...
...plumb in the new pipework...
...I fitted an inline filter for reassurance (the filter cost more than the new pump)...
...I then started the car without the air box to make sure all of the pipework was sealed. Put the air box back on as the car appeared to be back to normal (when cold I never had any trouble anyway).
Drove the car to the shop and was a bit spluttery all the way there and failed to start for a ten minutes after I had been in the shop for five minutes. Once eventually started if the rpm dropped below 1000 the engine would cut out and not start again. Grrrrr! Next.
Got the old girl going again and the spluteryness was different this time. So I took the distributor cap off to find the worst looking rotor arm and cap I have ever seen. The centre HT pin was had burned away level with the casing no wonder it wasn't running very well if the contacts were this crap.
WD40 in the cap to get me home and I've ordered a new set.
WD40 in the cap to get me home and I've ordered a new set.
Gassing Station | Rover | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff