Cerbera - most common problems...

[verminator]

Starter motor playing up. Sounds like it's just
spinning and not engaging. Could someone tell me
where the s. motor is on A 1998 4.2?

[SXS]

verminator said:

Starter motor playing up. Sounds like it's just spinning and not engaging. Could someone tell me where the s. motor is on A 1998 4.2?

Directly behind the engine, above the gearbox - stand in front of the car, and stick your hand all the way down behind through the top above-behind engine (in the centreline of the bay)....

[verminator]

[quote=SXS ]

Directly behind the engine, above the gearbox - stand in front of the car, and stick your hand all the way down behind through the top above-behind engine (in the centreline of the bay)....[/quote]

Thanks for your help. I will let you know how I get on.

Verminator

[Tam Lin]

Symptom: Door opens, immobiliser flashes after 30 seconds, but black starter button does nowt: no electric feed to dash, no desired sound effects

Cause: Mickey Mouse immobiliser key has twisted round again

Solution: turn Mickey Mouse immobiliser key until effectiveness of Black Button restored

[Dildomaloneo]

ah hello all.. i decided to treat myself to a 97 4.2 cerbera fully knowing that for some serious fun it would need some looking after..
ive only had it a couple of months and the first thing to go.. christmas eve was the battery/alternator.. the lights went dull and the ignition or injection system seemed to stop so it just rolled to a halt unable to be restarted. I assumed, as im new to all things TVR, that it was the alternator so i called Austec and spoke to a chap called Martin who explained about the 1OOamp fuse on the alternator and said to just link it out as its not needed.. well that saved me a few quid so thanks martin.
now i seem to have trouble with my cluch.. at first i thought my mat was stuck under it as i struggled to get it into 1st and 2nd but over night it seemed to go completely. there seems to be no resistance behind the clutch pedle at all now and i cant get it into any gear. ive been told it could bee the master cilinder? any advice will be gladly taken on board as im eager to learn as much as poss about these beauties.
oh, ive got the usual wet footwells but im sure i will find the info here some place.
anyway, im new the tvr and forums so forgive my lack of knowledge!
regards
Dyllan

[Gazzab]

Check the clutch fluid resovoir, if it is empty or full of bits of black rubber then your slave cylinder has gone.

[Byker28i]

Check my profile for the workshop manual

The clutch slave cylinder is hidden under a panel on the drivers side inner wing. You have to remove the rear engine bay shroud (two allen key bolts) then it's that eliptical shape of black sealent.

Carefully trim the sealent away with a sharp modeling knife and you'll find two screws to undo as well.

Check the fluid and as a starter I'd flush it through with some clean stuff as a starter as I don't think mine had ever been replaced. The bleed pipe is a braided one rising up from the clutch and finishing somewhere on the rear bulkhead, usually cable tied in.

When you put it all back make sure you seal that panel up well otherwise you'll have wet feet.

Or it could be an indication your clutch fingers have broken - common fault with original cluches.
If it is the Clever Trevor clutches are considered to be a good replacement, and probably worh replacing master and slave cylinders at the same time

[Buffoon]

2 more common ones are the old immobiliser problem not letting you start the car unless you hold the start button down for a couple of minutes.. Fixed by bypassing immobiliser

And one of this weekend's beuties was indicator not auto-cancelling.. Fixed by rotating the steering wheel alignment disc that passes through the optical sensors.

Both fixes zero cost. Can't say the same for all the other work I've had done mind you, but you do get a feel good factor when you can do things yourself cheaply

[Dildomaloneo]

thanks for the help Gazzab and Byker 28i, ive got it up on ramps today so ill post when its sorted.

[Ireland]

I reckoned it might be worth bumping up this thread as it contains a bit of useful info for new and long-term Cerb owners.

[Pursyluv]

I've checked the thread top and bottom and can't find the answer to:-

Unable to adjust wing mirror position using button on door, so can anyone save Pursyluv £50+ for a garage repair, i know it's not a fuse issue, but where next?
Thanks

[Ireland]

Pursyluv said:

I've checked the thread top and bottom and can't find the answer to:-

Unable to adjust wing mirror position using button on door, so can anyone save Pursyluv £50+ for a garage repair, i know it's not a fuse issue, but where next?
Thanks

Try taking off the inner door panel and cleaning the contacts in the multi-plugs.

A quick spray of contact cleaner onto to the opened plugs usually sorts out and door electrics issues on my car.

It's worth a try.

[Pursyluv]

Ireland said:

Pursyluv said:

I've checked the thread top and bottom and can't find the answer to:-

Unable to adjust wing mirror position using button on door, so can anyone save Pursyluv £50+ for a garage repair, i know it's not a fuse issue, but where next?
Thanks

Try taking off the inner door panel and cleaning the contacts in the multi-plugs.

A quick spray of contact cleaner onto to the opened plugs usually sorts out and door electrics issues on my car.

It's worth a try.

Thanks, i'll give it a go midweek

[Gray_101]

Pursyluv said:

Ireland said:

Pursyluv said:

I've checked the thread top and bottom and can't find the answer to:-

Unable to adjust wing mirror position using button on door, so can anyone save Pursyluv £50+ for a garage repair, i know it's not a fuse issue, but where next?
Thanks

Try taking off the inner door panel and cleaning the contacts in the multi-plugs.

A quick spray of contact cleaner onto to the opened plugs usually sorts out and door electrics issues on my car.

It's worth a try.

Thanks, i'll give it a go midweek

If your gonna take the door card off, get an old bit of carpet and put it under the door, might save your door card from a few un wanted scratches in case you drop it

[Pursyluv]

Gray_101 said:

Pursyluv said:

Ireland said:

Pursyluv said:

I've checked the thread top and bottom and can't find the answer to:-

Unable to adjust wing mirror position using button on door, so can anyone save Pursyluv £50+ for a garage repair, i know it's not a fuse issue, but where next?
Thanks

Try taking off the inner door panel and cleaning the contacts in the multi-plugs.

A quick spray of contact cleaner onto to the opened plugs usually sorts out and door electrics issues on my car.

It's worth a try.

Thanks, i'll give it a go midweek

If your gonna take the door card off, get an old bit of carpet and put it under the door, might save your door card from a few un wanted scratches in case you drop it

Don't worry i'll pass it to you when it's off

[Gray_101]

Pursyluv said:

Gray_101 said:

Pursyluv said:

Ireland said:

Pursyluv said:

I've checked the thread top and bottom and can't find the answer to:-

Unable to adjust wing mirror position using button on door, so can anyone save Pursyluv £50+ for a garage repair, i know it's not a fuse issue, but where next?
Thanks

Try taking off the inner door panel and cleaning the contacts in the multi-plugs.

A quick spray of contact cleaner onto to the opened plugs usually sorts out and door electrics issues on my car.

It's worth a try.

Thanks, i'll give it a go midweek

If your gonna take the door card off, get an old bit of carpet and put it under the door, might save your door card from a few un wanted scratches in case you drop it

Don't worry i'll pass it to you when it's off

Cheers Pal, im always glad to be of help

[WorAl]

Quick history of my cars slave cylinder.

Problem - Leaking Slave
Solution - Replace with better seals. Wait until seals corrode again and the piston scores the cylinder wall. Replace whole unit. Wait 6 months until seals fail again. Replace seals with "upgraded seals". Wait another 6 months for seals to fail and piston to score the Cylinder wall, again. Re-design the system and seals. Problem solved.

[WorAl]

chenchen21621 said:

_____________________________________________________________________
[url=http://www.eluxurywow.net/]gucci[/url]/[url=http://www.eluxurywow.net/]louis vuitton women[/url]/[url=http://www.thomassabocharmsverkauf.com/]thomas sabo anhänger[/url]/[url=http://www.eluxurys-store.com/]louis vuitton handbags[/url]

WTF is that

[Mr Completely]

Byker28i said:

Check my profile for the workshop manual

The clutch slave cylinder is hidden under a panel on the drivers side inner wing. You have to remove the rear engine bay shroud (two allen key bolts) then it's that eliptical shape of black sealent.

Carefully trim the sealent away with a sharp modeling knife and you'll find two screws to undo as well.

Check the fluid and as a starter I'd flush it through with some clean stuff as a starter as I don't think mine had ever been replaced. The bleed pipe is a braided one rising up from the clutch and finishing somewhere on the rear bulkhead, usually cable tied in.

When you put it all back make sure you seal that panel up well otherwise you'll have wet feet.

Or it could be an indication your clutch fingers have broken - common fault with original cluches.
If it is the Clever Trevor clutches are considered to be a good replacement, and probably worh replacing master and slave cylinders at the same time

As this thread has popped up again I just thought I'd point out to newbies that Byker28i actually meant to say Master Cylinder and not Slave Cylinder here.

The slave cylinder is a dirty great piston arrangement, cunningly concealed in the Bellhousing

HTH

[Incognegro]

Wipers not working= Get a reconditioned Wiper motor as that blown fuse stops headlights and indicators from working.

Jerky Drive= Not necessarily throttle bodies needing replacement. Have them brushed and new Thermal pads installed (perfect fix for me).

In my experience different places say different things. I say get down to TVR Power Coventry you get the facts and an awesome job backed by ultimate warranty!

I found out after lots of niggles and minor fixes £50 here and there that 2 of 6 cylinders were down on pressure (blown topend rebuild needed)! I've decided to go for a full 4.0 rebuilt straight 6 engine with Decat/EPROM upgrade. 100k mile warranty! All in all I'll be blowing doors off a 4.2 and going blow for blow with the 4.5s.