Getting gearbox back in
Discussion
It's always the clutch plates.
Forget the gearbox for now, assuming you don't have a spare input shaft or alignment tool, with your assistant pressing the clutch pedal use a long screwdriver to ensure that BOTH plates are completely free to move in all directions and turn as well. If not then something is not quite right with clutch.
Forget the gearbox for now, assuming you don't have a spare input shaft or alignment tool, with your assistant pressing the clutch pedal use a long screwdriver to ensure that BOTH plates are completely free to move in all directions and turn as well. If not then something is not quite right with clutch.
Thanks fellas.
Gotcha----- the first clutch plate had moved downwards.
Right so now how to align a twin plate clutch?
I have replaced many a single before and have a single alignment tool that holds the flywheel clutch plate in place but the other one is not being centred!
I'm presuming that I need a complete input shaft type alignment tool to keep both in place?
Now comes the tricky part - do I then have to push the gearbox in without having someone press the clutch pedal down? Surely if they are aligned, when I go to bleed the clutch hydraulics and press the clutch pedal, the plates will move as they will be "free?" I'm thinking I may have to force the gearbox in without the clutch being released by the pedal, or at least part of the way in to keep the plates aligned?
Gotcha----- the first clutch plate had moved downwards.
Right so now how to align a twin plate clutch?
I have replaced many a single before and have a single alignment tool that holds the flywheel clutch plate in place but the other one is not being centred!
I'm presuming that I need a complete input shaft type alignment tool to keep both in place?
Now comes the tricky part - do I then have to push the gearbox in without having someone press the clutch pedal down? Surely if they are aligned, when I go to bleed the clutch hydraulics and press the clutch pedal, the plates will move as they will be "free?" I'm thinking I may have to force the gearbox in without the clutch being released by the pedal, or at least part of the way in to keep the plates aligned?
God I hate this car at the moment. I've taken the clutch off, re-aligned the plates, put it all back on and the box still will not go in. Pretty p####d off to say the least. Anymore of this crap design and it will be for sale to the highest bidder. I'm over the crap design/ engineering. I does not matter how well it goes, the engineering is crap. I've never worked on any car like it.
My 10c.
My 10c.
Wolvesboy said:
God I hate this car at the moment. I've taken the clutch off, re-aligned the plates, put it all back on and the box still will not go in. Pretty p####d off to say the least. Anymore of this crap design and it will be for sale to the highest bidder. I'm over the crap design/ engineering. I does not matter how well it goes, the engineering is crap. I've never worked on any car like it.
My 10c.
I know what you're saying but with out the alignment tool your snookered. When I put my gearbox back I thought I could just eyeball it and line the plates up, but it just wouldn't go. As soon as I used the tool (which I had sat on the side but thought I could do with out) it went back instantly. Nothing to do with the design really. That's a two plate clutch. My 10c.
Oh and the broom handle route is going to be hit and miss as the teeth on the two clutch plates can be misaligned. Doh.
Edited by m4tti on Sunday 5th June 19:12
Jeez I was annoyed earlier! Apologies!
UKKID - if the clutch plates are too loose they just drop down out of alignment. This happened when I first bled the clutch hydraulics before putting the box in. I did this so that the clutch pedal could be pressed and apparently help!
I will get the alignment tool from TVR Parts and hopefully the plates line up.
All I have done is just taken the clutch off and replaced it using the recommended 25lbs torque after re- aligning it by eye.
Maybe I should have just tried to push it back in before I bled the clutch - it would have been as is. Instead I followed the advice of using the pressed clutch pedal to make it easier.
Bloody thing is too heavy to mess about like this.
UKKID - if the clutch plates are too loose they just drop down out of alignment. This happened when I first bled the clutch hydraulics before putting the box in. I did this so that the clutch pedal could be pressed and apparently help!
I will get the alignment tool from TVR Parts and hopefully the plates line up.
All I have done is just taken the clutch off and replaced it using the recommended 25lbs torque after re- aligning it by eye.
Maybe I should have just tried to push it back in before I bled the clutch - it would have been as is. Instead I followed the advice of using the pressed clutch pedal to make it easier.
Bloody thing is too heavy to mess about like this.
Wolvesboy said:
UKKID - if the clutch plates are too loose they just drop down out of alignment. This happened when I first bled the clutch hydraulics before putting the box in. I did this so that the clutch pedal could be pressed and apparently help!
Yes, they will move out of alignment when your assistant presses the clutch. But if they are free to move they will easily shift back into place with the clutch pressed (they can only move a couple of mm).When used with an assistant the alignment tool is only to check they are released properly, not to align them (sounds silly I know).
However, you are welcome to align them (has to be absolutely perfect otherwise the input shaft won't fit in the pilot), and then discover in a couple of days time when you try to drive the car that the clutch doesn't release properly. Think you're peed off now, you wait.
Alright, I managed to pop into TVR Parts and got the alignment tool as suggested. (Pretty shocked it is plastic mind!)
Anyhow, I have taken the bell/ clutch off again and re- aligned the plates with the tool going straight in and knocking the end as it should. Replaced the bell housing and the gear box still won't go in! It stops at the point in the photo approx 50mm away. Definitely knocking against something and I think it is the inner housing of the clutch slave.
I don't think that I have actually put the slave cylinder back together correctly as the input shaft seems to be catching too early.
The alignment tool still goes straight in through the bell housing so the plates are lined up ok.
Taken the bell housing off (again) and these photos show the clutch slave in position.
![](http://thumbsnap.com/sc/ECBoUq1B.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/kI2ey9tx" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/kI2ey9tx.jpg)
Anybody got a picture/ photo etc of the correct alignment of the clutch slave parts? I'm virtually sure I got them correct but I do stand to be corrected if necessary!
Thanks.
Anyhow, I have taken the bell/ clutch off again and re- aligned the plates with the tool going straight in and knocking the end as it should. Replaced the bell housing and the gear box still won't go in! It stops at the point in the photo approx 50mm away. Definitely knocking against something and I think it is the inner housing of the clutch slave.
I don't think that I have actually put the slave cylinder back together correctly as the input shaft seems to be catching too early.
The alignment tool still goes straight in through the bell housing so the plates are lined up ok.
Taken the bell housing off (again) and these photos show the clutch slave in position.
Anybody got a picture/ photo etc of the correct alignment of the clutch slave parts? I'm virtually sure I got them correct but I do stand to be corrected if necessary!
Thanks.
Hi Wolvesboy,
Sorry to see you are still having trouble with this!
From what i can see your slave set up looks correct to me, however, in the picture where you are holding up the ruler to the gearbox gap, it looks as though you may need to jack the engine up a bit to make the gaps at the top and bottom of the gearbox and bellhousing the same. It looks like you are going in at too much of an angle.
Place a bit of wood (to spread the load) and a jack under the sump (try to keep as near to the vertical wall/edge of the sump for strength). Try to keep the distance of the gap between the gearbox and bellhousing the same all the way around. I used the jack out of the wifes car.
If you are getting to the point where you are only 5cm away then you are past the slave cylinder so thats not your problem, i think it just that you need to jack up the engine to bring everything into line.
Once you have passed the 5cm point there is another potentially difficult alignment point at about 1 to 2cm so be ready for that one, again, aim for equal gaps top and bottom and side to side. Keep going with gentle circular movements
with the gearbox then suddenly it will all slide into place........ Sorry for the slightly sexual similarities here, but i can assure you when it all goes together there's only gonna be one orgasm!!!! Just make sure you get the bolts in first......... Sorry ladies, but you know how it is!!!!! 
Good luck
Sorry to see you are still having trouble with this!
From what i can see your slave set up looks correct to me, however, in the picture where you are holding up the ruler to the gearbox gap, it looks as though you may need to jack the engine up a bit to make the gaps at the top and bottom of the gearbox and bellhousing the same. It looks like you are going in at too much of an angle.
Place a bit of wood (to spread the load) and a jack under the sump (try to keep as near to the vertical wall/edge of the sump for strength). Try to keep the distance of the gap between the gearbox and bellhousing the same all the way around. I used the jack out of the wifes car.
If you are getting to the point where you are only 5cm away then you are past the slave cylinder so thats not your problem, i think it just that you need to jack up the engine to bring everything into line.
Once you have passed the 5cm point there is another potentially difficult alignment point at about 1 to 2cm so be ready for that one, again, aim for equal gaps top and bottom and side to side. Keep going with gentle circular movements
with the gearbox then suddenly it will all slide into place........ Sorry for the slightly sexual similarities here, but i can assure you when it all goes together there's only gonna be one orgasm!!!! Just make sure you get the bolts in first......... Sorry ladies, but you know how it is!!!!! Good luck
TeeHee - I love a bit of Finbar Saunders! (Remember Viz)? Thanks for the tip re the engine needing to be up! Will try this also as got nothing else to lose.
As I've got the bell housing out, I might even get the gearbox out to the side and see if I can slip the Bell onto the end! If you know what I mean!
Cheers.
As I've got the bell housing out, I might even get the gearbox out to the side and see if I can slip the Bell onto the end! If you know what I mean!
Cheers.
While you there make sure the clutch is working fine!
I inserted the alignment tool, wedged the phone on a crossmember on video mode.
I could see the tool wobble and go loose when the clutch pedal went in and firm up when it released.
As said by others a block of wood and a sissor jack under the sump helps.
I had no trouble refitting my box on my own, I took alot of time making sure the alignment was right with the tool, also hi temp grease I used on my Honda fleet gearbox input shafts on the splines too (very sparingly), I think I read anti size compound somewhere in Tvr literature.
Hth
I inserted the alignment tool, wedged the phone on a crossmember on video mode.
I could see the tool wobble and go loose when the clutch pedal went in and firm up when it released.
As said by others a block of wood and a sissor jack under the sump helps.
I had no trouble refitting my box on my own, I took alot of time making sure the alignment was right with the tool, also hi temp grease I used on my Honda fleet gearbox input shafts on the splines too (very sparingly), I think I read anti size compound somewhere in Tvr literature.
Hth
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