where is the big fuse?
Discussion
I can tell you Halford don't seem to have them, a proper motor factor place might - I tend to get mine off ebay for ease - good one here
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10x-Strip-Link-Fuses-40-50-6...
£2.50 for a pack of 10
Location is under the beauty cover thing and a bit fiddly to access (but easier on a 4.2 than a 4.5 as I discovered on Saturday night) - Cover off and then look down between fuel rail and bulkhead and there will be a little black box, flip back the lid to reveal fuse. Oh and disconnect battery before changing it or you will likely cause fun and games with your tools shorting things out.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10x-Strip-Link-Fuses-40-50-6...
£2.50 for a pack of 10
Location is under the beauty cover thing and a bit fiddly to access (but easier on a 4.2 than a 4.5 as I discovered on Saturday night) - Cover off and then look down between fuel rail and bulkhead and there will be a little black box, flip back the lid to reveal fuse. Oh and disconnect battery before changing it or you will likely cause fun and games with your tools shorting things out.
sorry for the horror pic, but this shows the beastie itself. The windscreen (or remnants thereof) are at the top of the picture.
My 5p's worth re the Big Fuse, which seems to have achieved mythical status: it protects the charging circuit. If it blows, the effect is the same as disconnecting the alternator. It won't stop the car from starting, or any other functions like doors, windows or immobiliser, assuming the battery is charged. The first symptom of a big fuse failing is the battery dash light staying on (with engine running). Without charge from the alternator you have maybe 10 mins of driving time, depending on current draw, from a fully charged battery before the engine stalls.
Having said that, if the fuse is making intermittent contact (dirty contacts), it will cause the voltage coursing through your wiring loom to jump about as the alternator's output kicks in and out, which can cause erratic behaviour of instruments eg rev counter. For this reason it is important to sand down the O-connectors and do up the 8mm nuts tight to maintain good contact. Bad contacts generate heat which can contribute to fuse failure.
My 5p's worth re the Big Fuse, which seems to have achieved mythical status: it protects the charging circuit. If it blows, the effect is the same as disconnecting the alternator. It won't stop the car from starting, or any other functions like doors, windows or immobiliser, assuming the battery is charged. The first symptom of a big fuse failing is the battery dash light staying on (with engine running). Without charge from the alternator you have maybe 10 mins of driving time, depending on current draw, from a fully charged battery before the engine stalls.
Having said that, if the fuse is making intermittent contact (dirty contacts), it will cause the voltage coursing through your wiring loom to jump about as the alternator's output kicks in and out, which can cause erratic behaviour of instruments eg rev counter. For this reason it is important to sand down the O-connectors and do up the 8mm nuts tight to maintain good contact. Bad contacts generate heat which can contribute to fuse failure.
FarmyardPants said:
sorry for the horror pic, but this shows the beastie itself. The windscreen (or remnants thereof) are at the top of the picture.
My 5p's worth re the Big Fuse, which seems to have achieved mythical status: it protects the charging circuit. If it blows, the effect is the same as disconnecting the alternator. It won't stop the car from starting, or any other functions like doors, windows or immobiliser, assuming the battery is charged. The first symptom of a big fuse failing is the battery dash light staying on (with engine running). Without charge from the alternator you have maybe 10 mins of driving time, depending on current draw, from a fully charged battery before the engine stalls.
Having said that, if the fuse is making intermittent contact (dirty contacts), it will cause the voltage coursing through your wiring loom to jump about as the alternator's output kicks in and out, which can cause erratic behaviour of instruments eg rev counter. For this reason it is important to sand down the O-connectors and do up the 8mm nuts tight to maintain good contact. Bad contacts generate heat which can contribute to fuse failure.
feck! that looks an expensive cook up! is that your car?My 5p's worth re the Big Fuse, which seems to have achieved mythical status: it protects the charging circuit. If it blows, the effect is the same as disconnecting the alternator. It won't stop the car from starting, or any other functions like doors, windows or immobiliser, assuming the battery is charged. The first symptom of a big fuse failing is the battery dash light staying on (with engine running). Without charge from the alternator you have maybe 10 mins of driving time, depending on current draw, from a fully charged battery before the engine stalls.
Having said that, if the fuse is making intermittent contact (dirty contacts), it will cause the voltage coursing through your wiring loom to jump about as the alternator's output kicks in and out, which can cause erratic behaviour of instruments eg rev counter. For this reason it is important to sand down the O-connectors and do up the 8mm nuts tight to maintain good contact. Bad contacts generate heat which can contribute to fuse failure.
also does the speed six have the same fuse?
warpig1 said:
FarmyardPants said:
sorry for the horror pic, but this shows the beastie itself. The windscreen (or remnants thereof) are at the top of the picture.
My 5p's worth re the Big Fuse, which seems to have achieved mythical status: it protects the charging circuit. If it blows, the effect is the same as disconnecting the alternator. It won't stop the car from starting, or any other functions like doors, windows or immobiliser, assuming the battery is charged. The first symptom of a big fuse failing is the battery dash light staying on (with engine running). Without charge from the alternator you have maybe 10 mins of driving time, depending on current draw, from a fully charged battery before the engine stalls.
Having said that, if the fuse is making intermittent contact (dirty contacts), it will cause the voltage coursing through your wiring loom to jump about as the alternator's output kicks in and out, which can cause erratic behaviour of instruments eg rev counter. For this reason it is important to sand down the O-connectors and do up the 8mm nuts tight to maintain good contact. Bad contacts generate heat which can contribute to fuse failure.
feck! that looks an expensive cook up! is that your car?My 5p's worth re the Big Fuse, which seems to have achieved mythical status: it protects the charging circuit. If it blows, the effect is the same as disconnecting the alternator. It won't stop the car from starting, or any other functions like doors, windows or immobiliser, assuming the battery is charged. The first symptom of a big fuse failing is the battery dash light staying on (with engine running). Without charge from the alternator you have maybe 10 mins of driving time, depending on current draw, from a fully charged battery before the engine stalls.
Having said that, if the fuse is making intermittent contact (dirty contacts), it will cause the voltage coursing through your wiring loom to jump about as the alternator's output kicks in and out, which can cause erratic behaviour of instruments eg rev counter. For this reason it is important to sand down the O-connectors and do up the 8mm nuts tight to maintain good contact. Bad contacts generate heat which can contribute to fuse failure.
also does the speed six have the same fuse?
FarmyardPants said:
Without charge from the alternator you have maybe 10 mins of driving time, depending on current draw, from a fully charged battery before the engine stalls.
When my alternator failed in Le mans this year I managed to drive 500 odd miles back home. Needed to get a jump start away from the petrol station and the ferry though. On the way back rev counter was all over the place, as was the speedo. Good job I had sat nav to keep me within a reasonable speed range 
speedo was reporting 50mph when I was doing 80! Ended up getting an alternator from TVR Car Parts.
FarmyardPants said:
The first symptom of a big fuse failing is the battery dash light staying on (with engine running). Without charge from the alternator you have maybe 10 mins of driving time, depending on current draw, from a fully charged battery before the engine stalls.
This is what happened to me Sat night, coming through Rotherhithe tunnel battery light on and car was losing power even with revs up, died on me about 10 mins later, thankfully not in the tunnel.RAC were called who cahrged the battery enough for me to get home, so they thought, but 10 mins into driving it died again.
Thankfully had some very helpful p'hers with me who had a big fuse, so that was changed, in the pouring rain at 0400 in the morning, again big thanks to Paul v
and car has been fine since 
its definately worth getting some big fuses and keeping them in the car along with a torch, umbrella and of course the tools to do it.
100 amp fuses
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10-x-TVR-100-Amp-Main-Fuse-C...
just posting the links so you know what they look like
and
always a good idea to keep a few in the car
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10-x-TVR-100-Amp-Main-Fuse-C...
just posting the links so you know what they look like
and
always a good idea to keep a few in the car
arebrec said:
Bugger!! 
was just about to order that and its ended I'm already selling the 100 amp strip fuses as part of my glow fuse packs and will be putting 100 amp fuse holders & packs of 4 x 100 amp fuses up on my website within the next couple of days.
www.tvrextras.co.uk
www.tvrextras.co.uk
arebrec said:
arebrec said:
Bugger!! was just about to order that and its ended See link here
arebrec said:
There you are Rog, dont mess about waiting for the insurance. Start rebuilding the old girl now Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff