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Jackal83
Original Poster
49 posts
1 month
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Hi Guys
Had problems with the driver door leaking... When i got the car the window was'nt going up properly... so i got all the door card off and found the rear runner was'nt attached at the top... so put a new bolt in know bother front and back runners dont have a middle bolt in them!!! i did try with middle bolt in but i could'nt get the window to go up all the way due to the window locking up on the runner.
Anyway managed to set it all up again (what a ball ache of a thing to do) window goes up to the seal but there is a small cap at the top of the window between the window and the seal... you cand sea it but if you push the seal it openes up... where as on the passenger side you cant actually push the seal. Very Odd cos its going up all the way!!!
so i still have wind noise... i replaced the rubber things on both sides of the door still getting water in the foot well.... water isent running down the inside of the window and door card so it aint the gap in the window.... with all this rain latly its just got really bad... Is there an easy way to find out where its coming from????
Cheers
Jack
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SimonKD
826 posts
58 months
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Well it's getting towards that time of year again when our glorious weather finds out even the smallest leaks on our cars unfortunate enough to have to be kept outside.
Here is my list of water ingress points on the front offside on the Cerb usually resulting in wet drivers feet.
1. The grommets which the throttle cable, water temperature capillary tube brake servo hose pass through
2. Clutch master cylinder cover
3. Pedal box securing bolts
4. Brake master cylinder reservoir bolts
5. Bolts securing bonnet stay rod bracket
6. Oil pipe union
7. Scuttle panel securing riv-nut
8. Brake block mounted on toe board
9. Grommets in floor pan
10. Bonnet release shaft
11. Windscreen
12. Bolts securing bonnet lock bracket
13. Door seals
14. Steering column bearing
15. Indicator side repeater
And the nearside footwell........
1. Wiring loom grommet or multiplug connector on early cars.
2. Grommet for wiper motor wiring
3. Wiper motor securing bolts
4. Expansion tank bracket securing bolts
5. Heater pipes
6. Battery tray securing bolts
7. MAP sensor pipe (barometric pressure pipe from rear l/h airbox)
8. Rivnut for scuttle panel
9. Windscreen
10. Door seals
11. Grommets in floorpan
12. Indicator side repeater
and as for the rear nearside & offside rear
1. Seat belt securing bolts
2. Door seals
3. Grommets in floorpan
4. Rear screen
This should help anyone find where the water is getting in.
Regards
Simon
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JensenA
2,923 posts
57 months
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The Window runners need to be bolted in to the door with countersunk allen headed screws. If you use an ordinary bolt then the head protrudes and theglass caztches on the runner. The height of the window can be adjusted - there is a small M6 bolt at the top of the window regulator that can be wound up and down to adjust the glass height.
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Jackal83
Original Poster
49 posts
1 month
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cheers simon!!! somethings i never thought bout in that lot!!!!
Jensen... yer i put countersunk bolts in... they are the same as what holds the door card onto the door!!! but only has 2 in each...
the window isent hitting its limit and seems abit slow going up and down compared to the other window... wounder if its had its day and i need a new one..
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Jackal83
Original Poster
49 posts
1 month
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Just taken all the carpets out of the drivers side to put to dry!!!! thety where dripping wet...  . notied that the door car is wet underneath the speaker in the door... so i'm guessing its something do do with the front of the door somehow.
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JensenA
2,923 posts
57 months
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Jackal83 said: cheers simon!!! somethings i never thought bout in that lot!!!!
Jensen... yer i put countersunk bolts in... they are the same as what holds the door card onto the door!!! but only has 2 in each...
the window isent hitting its limit and seems ablow going up and down compared to the other window... wounder if its had its day and i need a new one.. Lubricate the Spiral thingy in the Window regulator mechanism, spray Silicone lubricant in the runners, tighten the runners when the window is fully up, to make sure they are not 'squeezing' the glass as it winds up. Also there is room for some adjustment of the glass - Undo the 2 clamps that hold the glass in place, and pull the glass up slightly then retighten the clamp - then wind the window up to see if that has cured the gap at the top.
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al 350i
204 posts
22 months
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hi jack, did you say that you had replaced the rubber door strip that goes all the way arond on the inside, if so try spraying some silicone spray on it as new ones can make the window go slow because the seal becomes tight. does your window drop down a long way before the door opens, if so there is a halt switch at the front half of the window if you gently bend the plastic tab up a bit it will stop the window coming down to far and when it goes back up it will seal better. plan B: build a garage 
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Jackal83
Original Poster
49 posts
1 month
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how far down does a cerbera window come down when you open it????
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Jackal83
Original Poster
49 posts
1 month
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Well had a proper look round today and seen a few problem areas around the door!!! Great!
Biggest problem is the seal on the front of the door card is missing... looks like its been ripped off somehow... its only a little short thing isent it... the rvt silicone is still there but its been ripped at the top corner!! Anyone know where i can get one of these from?
Also the gromet that the temp sensor cable goes through was split wipe open so re done that....
Jack
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JensenA
2,923 posts
57 months
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Jackal83 said: how far down does a cerbera window come down when you open it???? There should be about 25mm maximum of glass protruding above the top of the door. Do you mean the Triangle shaped rubber thingy at the top front edge of the door is missing? I'd try Racing Green, they have managed to obtain all sorts of obscure bits and peices for me.
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Jackal83
Original Poster
49 posts
1 month
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no i mean the seal thats siliconed to the door card that presses on the door seal. going down the front of the door card.
Jack
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Tanguero
607 posts
28 months
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I am fairly certain that any seal stuck along the front edge of the door card is not original. Mine had these - they had even been resprayed around at some time - but in attempting to cure a persistent leak I decided to remove them. Presto! No more leak.
If you dust the edge of the door seal with talc then wipe the door edge with a damp cloth then close the door, you will be able to see where the door is hitting the seal and where any gaps are.
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Jackal83
Original Poster
49 posts
1 month
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they dont look like an add on seal. I'll try the talc idea buddy.
Jack
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JensenA
2,923 posts
57 months
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Jackal83 said: no i mean the seal thats siliconed to the door card that presses on the door seal. going down the front of the door card.
Jack
That seal shouldn't be there - There are no seals attached to the door card.
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Jackal83
Original Poster
49 posts
1 month
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hmmmm very odd... Cant understand why someone has put it there then... i'll take it off and see if it makes any diffrence.
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JensenA
2,923 posts
57 months
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The Inner Fibre Glass door moulding presses against the rubber seal that is fitted around the door aperture to form a watertight seal. I guess someone has fitted that bit of a rubber in an attempt to cure a leak - all that would do is transfer the leak somewhere else!
The door hinges have shims fitted between the bodywork and the hinge to move the door in or out. No shims will bring the door closer to the seal, The addition of shims will push the door out from the seal. Check and see if yours has shims fitted, if it does, slacken off the hinge bolts and remove the shims. If that does't work, you'll have to buy a new door seal - about £20.
PS - Only loosen one hinge at a time to prevent the door shifting position.
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