DIY 243 cylinder heads
Discussion
As I bought these from a member on here and Ringham was kind enough to post them on I'll post some pics of the progress I've made doing some home DIY modification.
Comments welcome, criticism expected
Firstly I've read stuff and looked at lots of pics and will be watering down to my level as I'm not expecting any miracles and from what I've done so far. You need the patience of a Saint which I certainly don't have, neither the ideal tools. Oh and a flow bench of course.
I'm using my trusty Dremmel to do the majority of the work and it's not ideal for removing lots of metal or working deep in the ports. Not having a workshop at home I've made a small work area from a large server box to catch all the swarf as it flies off the heads!
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
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Starting with the combustion chambers. Here's a standard LS6 chamber from a low mileage engine. There's obviously more carbon build up round the exhaust port but not too bad (looks worse in the pic). Compare to my current LS1 heads the chamber is smaller for more compression. Mainly due to the addition of a squish area next to the spark plug (go look up squish or quench in Google).
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
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Here's the chamber after removing most of the carbon. As I did this I noticed there's an area of trapped carbon either side of the combustion chamber. This is caused by a machining mark from when the valve seats were inserted. Using a round head burr I de-pocketed this area to remove the carbon and improve the flow around the edge of the valve.
I considered un-shrouding the chamber wall some more but when I put the gasket from a 3.9" bore 5.7 LS1 there's actually no room left. There may be benefits on the 4.0" bore LS2 which these came from.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url]
Moving to the exhaust valve seat inserts my aim was to smooth the transition from the inlet/exhaust tracks to the back of each seat. On the exhaust side the inserts were flush but immediately below there was another machining mark which left a ridge in the exhaust track. So I reduced that ridge with a flat burr then using the round head burr I contoured the opening to a more rounded profile.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url]
On the inlet side the inserts are smaller in diameter than the actual aluminium inlet track. So there is step down at the beginning of the valve seat insert then an angle cut in to the leading edge to blend the insert to the narrowest section. On a lot of DIY/CNC heads I've seen the insert is simply machined away until the valve insert is flush with the inlet track.
Only problem is the inserts are really hard and I'm struggling to remove any significant metal from them using the Dremel. So for now I've smoothed the area immediately behind the inserts and tried to make each port match at least. I'm still a bit apprehensive about removing so much metal from the inserts anyway so any comments welcome?
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url]
For the inlet valve guide bosses I've again been conservative. Below on the left side of the pic you can see a "swirl ramp" which actually aids combustion at high flow rates and valve lift. I've seen many heads with them removed but as I'm also using a mild cam I'm keeping them in place for better combustion. So I've narrowed down the boss a little and widened the ramps as a result.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
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[URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
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Here's the inlet runner with no changes below. The obvious area to work on here is the lump of aluminium protruding in the inlet (lower left).
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
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I reduced the lump with a flat sided burr then smoothed over a bit with the round burr. I was at the limit of the reach of the Dremel working here. Also this the sort of job that would benefit from a proper 6mm die grinder as it was a bit slow going.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url]
After that I removed the swarf and used a 60 grit sanding band to clean the rest of the inlet. The finish doesn't need to be much smoother this on the inlet side as the roughness promotes fuel atomisation.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url]
Now when you look back down the inlet tract you may spot why there was a lump in the factory casting. There's a cam cover bolt almost directly above the inlet and removing the lump exposes the bottom of the bolt hole
Just need to remember to use thread lock on the bolts so oil doesn't seep down the threads. Might even be worth using a threaded stud in place of the cam bolts. Then I can screw it all the way down in to the inlet tract and the grind the end off flush with the wall.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url]
As for the exhaust boss I removed excess aluminium and created a "bullet" shape to the boss and valve guide to help the gasses flow past. The aluminium was obviously heat hardened as it was slower to work on compared to the inlet side.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
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[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
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I again used 60 grit sanding bands to shape the exhaust tract but this will benefit from a much finer finish, even polished if I can really be arsed! Comments on additional work here welcome.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url]
Comments welcome, criticism expected
Firstly I've read stuff and looked at lots of pics and will be watering down to my level as I'm not expecting any miracles and from what I've done so far. You need the patience of a Saint which I certainly don't have, neither the ideal tools. Oh and a flow bench of course.
I'm using my trusty Dremmel to do the majority of the work and it's not ideal for removing lots of metal or working deep in the ports. Not having a workshop at home I've made a small work area from a large server box to catch all the swarf as it flies off the heads!
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] Starting with the combustion chambers. Here's a standard LS6 chamber from a low mileage engine. There's obviously more carbon build up round the exhaust port but not too bad (looks worse in the pic). Compare to my current LS1 heads the chamber is smaller for more compression. Mainly due to the addition of a squish area next to the spark plug (go look up squish or quench in Google).
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] Here's the chamber after removing most of the carbon. As I did this I noticed there's an area of trapped carbon either side of the combustion chamber. This is caused by a machining mark from when the valve seats were inserted. Using a round head burr I de-pocketed this area to remove the carbon and improve the flow around the edge of the valve.
I considered un-shrouding the chamber wall some more but when I put the gasket from a 3.9" bore 5.7 LS1 there's actually no room left. There may be benefits on the 4.0" bore LS2 which these came from.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] Moving to the exhaust valve seat inserts my aim was to smooth the transition from the inlet/exhaust tracks to the back of each seat. On the exhaust side the inserts were flush but immediately below there was another machining mark which left a ridge in the exhaust track. So I reduced that ridge with a flat burr then using the round head burr I contoured the opening to a more rounded profile.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] On the inlet side the inserts are smaller in diameter than the actual aluminium inlet track. So there is step down at the beginning of the valve seat insert then an angle cut in to the leading edge to blend the insert to the narrowest section. On a lot of DIY/CNC heads I've seen the insert is simply machined away until the valve insert is flush with the inlet track.
Only problem is the inserts are really hard and I'm struggling to remove any significant metal from them using the Dremel. So for now I've smoothed the area immediately behind the inserts and tried to make each port match at least. I'm still a bit apprehensive about removing so much metal from the inserts anyway so any comments welcome?
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] For the inlet valve guide bosses I've again been conservative. Below on the left side of the pic you can see a "swirl ramp" which actually aids combustion at high flow rates and valve lift. I've seen many heads with them removed but as I'm also using a mild cam I'm keeping them in place for better combustion. So I've narrowed down the boss a little and widened the ramps as a result.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] [URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/URL] Here's the inlet runner with no changes below. The obvious area to work on here is the lump of aluminium protruding in the inlet (lower left).
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] I reduced the lump with a flat sided burr then smoothed over a bit with the round burr. I was at the limit of the reach of the Dremel working here. Also this the sort of job that would benefit from a proper 6mm die grinder as it was a bit slow going.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] After that I removed the swarf and used a 60 grit sanding band to clean the rest of the inlet. The finish doesn't need to be much smoother this on the inlet side as the roughness promotes fuel atomisation.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] Now when you look back down the inlet tract you may spot why there was a lump in the factory casting. There's a cam cover bolt almost directly above the inlet and removing the lump exposes the bottom of the bolt hole
Just need to remember to use thread lock on the bolts so oil doesn't seep down the threads. Might even be worth using a threaded stud in place of the cam bolts. Then I can screw it all the way down in to the inlet tract and the grind the end off flush with the wall.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] As for the exhaust boss I removed excess aluminium and created a "bullet" shape to the boss and valve guide to help the gasses flow past. The aluminium was obviously heat hardened as it was slower to work on compared to the inlet side.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] [url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] I again used 60 grit sanding bands to shape the exhaust tract but this will benefit from a much finer finish, even polished if I can really be arsed! Comments on additional work here welcome.
[url="http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/url] Edited by bimbleuk on Tuesday 18th June 08:33
I don't have any criticism as i don't know much about polishing/porting heads.
Have read about this on various forums. one i plucked from a quick google search, so look into it.
http://johnmaherracing.com/tech-talk/3-angle-valve...
Not sure how doable it is at home, but could potential add a few horses.
You might find useless but interesting
Have read about this on various forums. one i plucked from a quick google search, so look into it.
http://johnmaherracing.com/tech-talk/3-angle-valve...
Not sure how doable it is at home, but could potential add a few horses.
You might find useless but interesting
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_2_zpsa2c07f39.jpg.html"){kind=link}
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_3_zpse2ef5cbc.jpg.html"){kind=link}
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_4_zpsde787ab2.jpg.html"){kind=link}
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_5_zpse794a590.jpg.html"){kind=link}
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_6_zps0ccafd4d.jpg.html"){kind=link}
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_8_zps97972cf9.jpg.html"){kind=link}
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_10_zps6e4d1884.jpg.html"){kind=link}
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_11_zpsc09b8b5f.jpg.html"){kind=link}
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_13_zpsdf90130e.jpg.html"){kind=link}
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_14_zps38dcca1b.jpg.html"){kind=link}
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_15_zpsbd53bc5e.jpg.html"){kind=link}
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_17_zps73b81895.jpg.html"){kind=link}
![http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb](http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimbleuk/media/Mazda%20RX7%20V8%20-%20Porting/Cylinder_Head_Porting_16_zpsfe8cf332.jpg.html"){kind=link}
john93t said:
I don't have any criticism as i don't know much about polishing/porting heads.
Have read about this on various forums. one i plucked from a quick google search, so look into it.
http://johnmaherracing.com/tech-talk/
Not sure how doable it is at home, but could potential add a few horses.
You might find useless but interesting
Have read about this on various forums. one i plucked from a quick google search, so look into it.
http://johnmaherracing.com/tech-talk/
Not sure how doable it is at home, but could potential add a few horses.
You might find useless but interesting
Useful link the more I dig the more I think it may be worth a trip to see Roger @ Sabre Heads as he did a 20V Toyota head for me a few years back. Even if I just lap the valves in, put some Engineer's Blue on the seats to mark the valves and then get him to check the valves for an appropriate cutback.
Good to see someone having a go. They say 80% of gains are in the first 1" of port starting from the valve.
The step under the seat you can probably fill with epoxy to smooth it out.
Dont forget to port your throttle too. What intake are you running? Fast90? If you are on the stock 75mm throttle port that too..!
You could then get a valve job done that will add quite a bit too.
The step under the seat you can probably fill with epoxy to smooth it out.
Dont forget to port your throttle too. What intake are you running? Fast90? If you are on the stock 75mm throttle port that too..!
You could then get a valve job done that will add quite a bit too.
ringram said:
Good to see someone having a go. They say 80% of gains are in the first 1" of port starting from the valve.
The step under the seat you can probably fill with epoxy to smooth it out.
Dont forget to port your throttle too. What intake are you running? Fast90? If you are on the stock 75mm throttle port that too..!
You could then get a valve job done that will add quite a bit too.
The step under the seat you can probably fill with epoxy to smooth it out.
Dont forget to port your throttle too. What intake are you running? Fast90? If you are on the stock 75mm throttle port that too..!
You could then get a valve job done that will add quite a bit too.
I believe you are right from what I've read and also from speaking to Roger @ Sabre heads.
Spec. is '04 LS1
80mm Edelbrock cable TB
85mm LS2 MAF
LS6 intake manifold
0280 155 811 injectors (41.9 lbs @ 58 PSI)
Custom made mid headers and no cats, minimal silencing.
EFI Live tuning by me on the near standard engine to learn it in prep.
To fit.
Comp Cams XR275HR-12 222/224 .566/.568
Dual springs, LS7 lifters, hardened rods etc.
ATI damper pulley
I bought the cam before buying the heads so maybe I would have chosen differently but I've got it now.
I've bought a new bit and will have another go at the seats otherwise I'll see about finishing them off at Sabre heads with a valve seat cut.
bimbleuk said:
ringram said:
Good to see someone having a go. They say 80% of gains are in the first 1" of port starting from the valve.
The step under the seat you can probably fill with epoxy to smooth it out.
Dont forget to port your throttle too. What intake are you running? Fast90? If you are on the stock 75mm throttle port that too..!
You could then get a valve job done that will add quite a bit too.
I believe you are right from what I've read and also from speaking to Roger @ Sabre heads.The step under the seat you can probably fill with epoxy to smooth it out.
Dont forget to port your throttle too. What intake are you running? Fast90? If you are on the stock 75mm throttle port that too..!
You could then get a valve job done that will add quite a bit too.
Spec. is '04 LS1
80mm Edelbrock cable TB
85mm LS2 MAF
LS6 intake manifold
0280 155 811 injectors (41.9 lbs @ 58 PSI)
Custom made mid headers and no cats, minimal silencing.
EFI Live tuning by me on the near standard engine to learn it in prep.
To fit.
Comp Cams XR275HR-12 222/224 .566/.568
Dual springs, LS7 lifters, hardened rods etc.
ATI damper pulley
I bought the cam before buying the heads so maybe I would have chosen differently but I've got it now.
I've bought a new bit and will have another go at the seats otherwise I'll see about finishing them off at Sabre heads with a valve seat cut.
Great project BTW, and good luck with it! I'm sure you will be pleased with the end result. Is the ATI an underdrive?
MyM8V8 said:
Only comment from me would be my preference for beehives instead of the dual springs on a relatively small cam (which should do a good job for you). Rationale, less harmonics and more compliant.
Great project BTW, and good luck with it! I'm sure you will be pleased with the end result. Is the ATI an underdrive?
Fair comment but they came with the cam and I was less versed in the LSx engine at the time. How would the LS2 springs (yellow beehive) fair seeing as I have two sets of them now?Great project BTW, and good luck with it! I'm sure you will be pleased with the end result. Is the ATI an underdrive?
ATI is a 10% under drive. Also it only has one drive ring as I don't have hydraulic power steering or air con in my project car. So parasitic loses are quite low too.
I'm doing a lot of the work by eye but to keep some sort quality control I bought a set of bore gauges to compare dimensions between ports. I will volume the chambers before assembly and might even measure the port volumes but remembering to block the holes in the inlet side walls first!
I mentioned before the valve seat inserts were giving me some trouble. I tried some 6mm carbide burrs in a hand drill which would work but a hand drill is not fun to use so close to the valve seats. So I bought a 3.2mm tungsten carbide burr for my Dremel. I doubted such a small bit would work but as it was £7 I gave it a go and was surprised to find it had no problem removing metal from the inserts.
The main area needing attention is the roof of the inlet port where there's a lot of flow. They stick out quite a bit at that point. The exhaust inserts are all pretty much flush already so just need a light touch up.
I mentioned before the valve seat inserts were giving me some trouble. I tried some 6mm carbide burrs in a hand drill which would work but a hand drill is not fun to use so close to the valve seats. So I bought a 3.2mm tungsten carbide burr for my Dremel. I doubted such a small bit would work but as it was £7 I gave it a go and was surprised to find it had no problem removing metal from the inserts.
The main area needing attention is the roof of the inlet port where there's a lot of flow. They stick out quite a bit at that point. The exhaust inserts are all pretty much flush already so just need a light touch up.
Edited by bimbleuk on Tuesday 18th June 21:39
bimbleuk said:
How would the LS2 springs (yellow beehive) fair seeing as I have two sets of them now?
Only one way to find out. Fit them and measure everything and spring pressures. I've used a set of Comp 918s with mine and they have been faultless - no sign of valve bounce etc.Just had a look at the work on the inlet ports, I'm assuming you will be port matching with the LS6 intake? Every little helps. (Great slogan for a mediocre supermarket!)
Edited by MyM8V8 on Wednesday 19th June 15:43
[quote=MyM8V8
Just had a look at the work on the inlet ports, I'm assuming you will be port matching with the LS6 intake? Every little helps. (Great slogan for a mediocre supermarket!)
Yep for now I just smoothed the seams as I'll have to wait till I take the current heads off and do a temp reassembly with the olds gaskets to see how it all lines up.
I think I will check the installed heights with the dual springs later and if they don't need shimming I may as well use them. I bought them from Craig @ Dyno Torque and he was certain they would be fine with the cam I did ask at the time. Also looking at the Comp Cams website they are listed as one of the recommended spring kits for my cam.
For reference.
LS2: 90/295 Seat/open
918: 130/318
921: 135/400
I guess a lot depends on where the power peaks and how far I'm prepared to rev the motor.[/
Just had a look at the work on the inlet ports, I'm assuming you will be port matching with the LS6 intake? Every little helps. (Great slogan for a mediocre supermarket!)
Edited by MyM8V8 on Wednesday 19th June 15:43
[/quote] Yep for now I just smoothed the seams as I'll have to wait till I take the current heads off and do a temp reassembly with the olds gaskets to see how it all lines up.
I think I will check the installed heights with the dual springs later and if they don't need shimming I may as well use them. I bought them from Craig @ Dyno Torque and he was certain they would be fine with the cam I did ask at the time. Also looking at the Comp Cams website they are listed as one of the recommended spring kits for my cam.
For reference.
LS2: 90/295 Seat/open
918: 130/318
921: 135/400
I guess a lot depends on where the power peaks and how far I'm prepared to rev the motor.[/
Edited by bimbleuk on Thursday 20th June 08:11
bimbleuk said:
Yep for now I just smoothed the seams as I'll have to wait till I take the current heads off and do a temp reassembly with the olds gaskets to see how it all lines up.
Yeah. It just looked as though you had taken the sharp edges of the port entrance and I wouldn't have done that until I'd mounted (offered up) the intake for the port match. i.e. Edited by bimbleuk on Thursday 20th June 08:11
What are you doing about the throttle body?
Edited by MyM8V8 on Thursday 20th June 08:47
[quote=MyM8V8
Yeah. It just looked as though you had taken the sharp edges of the port entrance and I wouldn't have done that until I'd mounted (offered up) the intake for the port match. i.e.
What are you doing about the throttle body?
No that's a good spot and all I've done is lightly run a sanding band up the edge as there were some tiny slithers of metal around the edge. Very sharp so I got a couple of scratches when I stuck my fingre in to feel the finish.
I've already fitted an Edelbrock 80mm cable TB. My aim was small gains everywhere without the expense of a Fast inlet and 90mm TB. Bonnet clearance might be an issue with a 90mm TB anyway with my setup.
[URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/URL]
Yeah. It just looked as though you had taken the sharp edges of the port entrance and I wouldn't have done that until I'd mounted (offered up) the intake for the port match. i.e.
What are you doing about the throttle body?
Edited by MyM8V8 on Thursday 20th June 08:47
[/quote] No that's a good spot and all I've done is lightly run a sanding band up the edge as there were some tiny slithers of metal around the edge. Very sharp so I got a couple of scratches when I stuck my fingre in to feel the finish.
I've already fitted an Edelbrock 80mm cable TB. My aim was small gains everywhere without the expense of a Fast inlet and 90mm TB. Bonnet clearance might be an issue with a 90mm TB anyway with my setup.
[URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/URL]Still working on the cylinders heads after two weeks but I reckon I'll be finished this weekend as far as I want to go.
I discovered one cockup about my dual springs. I actually don't have any seats for them doh! Never checked when I bought them as they come separately but I quickly found the relevant part numbers on the Comp Cams website. They are effectively in 3 parts. Hardened seat, stem seals and shims. I shouldn't need the shims with my setup but as they are coming from the US via my sis I added them to the list anyway being quite cheap (~£15).
Last couple of evenings I worked on the exhaust ports after the guides. There's a pic above that shows the back of one of the guides. In that pic you can just about see that the D shape ports are a bit wonky on the top and right side. There's actually overhang on the top and right side of the ports so I aimed to straighten the ports and take them out slightly to meet the gasket line I traced on the heads.
One of areas to be aware of is the roof of the exhaust port where it dips down so I removed very little metal from that area. My imaginary line was a bit shallower than the one in the pic below.
This is a shot back down the port after a quick tidy up with an 80 grit sanding band
To keep some consistency I was using the bore gauges between each port while I worked. Final step will be to create a finer finish in the exhaust ports.
I discovered one cockup about my dual springs. I actually don't have any seats for them doh! Never checked when I bought them as they come separately but I quickly found the relevant part numbers on the Comp Cams website. They are effectively in 3 parts. Hardened seat, stem seals and shims. I shouldn't need the shims with my setup but as they are coming from the US via my sis I added them to the list anyway being quite cheap (~£15).
Last couple of evenings I worked on the exhaust ports after the guides. There's a pic above that shows the back of one of the guides. In that pic you can just about see that the D shape ports are a bit wonky on the top and right side. There's actually overhang on the top and right side of the ports so I aimed to straighten the ports and take them out slightly to meet the gasket line I traced on the heads.
One of areas to be aware of is the roof of the exhaust port where it dips down so I removed very little metal from that area. My imaginary line was a bit shallower than the one in the pic below.
This is a shot back down the port after a quick tidy up with an 80 grit sanding band
To keep some consistency I was using the bore gauges between each port while I worked. Final step will be to create a finer finish in the exhaust ports.
Edited by bimbleuk on Saturday 22 June 08:58
Little update as I had a break while the heads were being skimmed 10 thou to get the best sealing surface and while there I asked the machinist to recut the top angle on each port as they were poorly defined on the heads.
I spent a fair amount of time this weekend swapping the heads and cam over. I was planning to do it all in the time but ended up spending quite a bit cleaning the block surfaces and chasing crude out of the head bolt holes etc. I definitely didn't want to bugger up the torque to yield head bolts!
[URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
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[URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
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[URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/URL]
[URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/URL]
Here's where I got to before the heat and back ache finally defeated me!
[URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/URL]
I spent a fair amount of time this weekend swapping the heads and cam over. I was planning to do it all in the time but ended up spending quite a bit cleaning the block surfaces and chasing crude out of the head bolt holes etc. I definitely didn't want to bugger up the torque to yield head bolts!
[URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/URL] [URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/URL] [URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/URL] [URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
[/URL] Here's where I got to before the heat and back ache finally defeated me!
[URL=http://s154.photobucket.com/user/bimb]
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