DB9 engine ticking noise - help please
Discussion
Most of our cars are out of warranty and don't know what they may be so concerned about - so they should not have an issue just revealing what the "fix" was post 2009. It would be worth pursusing as I don't have a problem paying for the solution, just need to know what to do as it has stumped local AM mechanics.
AMDBSNick said:
AMDBSNick said:
Mav. I understand your car has been inspected by a very reputable Indy. What may I ask were their views?
BUMP
Just posted this on AMOC site:
To add fuel to this debate: in discussion with service engineer at AMW Dubai, who has replaced lash adjusters on at least 2 cars - to no avail - I mentioned that several times the possibility of low oil pressure had cropped up on AMOC and PH. This intrigued him and he went on to explain that the pressure gauge on the DB7 V12 - and all others since - does not actually read a pressure; rather, it makes an electronic calculation based on several factors, inc eng speed, but it doesn't actually take a pressure from the oil supply! When I went on to mention that some had mooted the idea of increasing the oil pressure by modifying the oil pump set-up, this, he said, made mechanical sense - unlike a fault with the lash adjusters which he thinks is unlikely to be the root cause of the ticking; he went into the parts lists and discovered that the DB7V oil pump part number has been changed 3 times - the current iteration is the same as the original Vanquish (1R12-04-10703); I recall that there were some posters on PH suggesting seeing if the Vanquish oil pump could be fitted as it provides a significantly higher oil pressure than DB7V one. So have AM possibly recognised that the original pump was not good enough? He also went on to explain that the V12 engines built from 2000 to 2008 were the ones built by Cosworth(?) and are now well known for this ticking in AM service agent circles; the Vanquish engine was a different design so didn't tick, and since 2009 the V12 has been re-designed - funnily enough they don't tick. Also, it is AM policy to not repair these older V12 engines; instead, AM offered training to individual agents on how to repair such engine issues, but the cost of the work actually exceeds getting a replacement engine! I am now weighing up having the oil pump replaced at my next service - along with cam chain adjusters as it seems prudent to do so when front of engine is off....... Thoughts gentlemen?
To add fuel to this debate: in discussion with service engineer at AMW Dubai, who has replaced lash adjusters on at least 2 cars - to no avail - I mentioned that several times the possibility of low oil pressure had cropped up on AMOC and PH. This intrigued him and he went on to explain that the pressure gauge on the DB7 V12 - and all others since - does not actually read a pressure; rather, it makes an electronic calculation based on several factors, inc eng speed, but it doesn't actually take a pressure from the oil supply! When I went on to mention that some had mooted the idea of increasing the oil pressure by modifying the oil pump set-up, this, he said, made mechanical sense - unlike a fault with the lash adjusters which he thinks is unlikely to be the root cause of the ticking; he went into the parts lists and discovered that the DB7V oil pump part number has been changed 3 times - the current iteration is the same as the original Vanquish (1R12-04-10703); I recall that there were some posters on PH suggesting seeing if the Vanquish oil pump could be fitted as it provides a significantly higher oil pressure than DB7V one. So have AM possibly recognised that the original pump was not good enough? He also went on to explain that the V12 engines built from 2000 to 2008 were the ones built by Cosworth(?) and are now well known for this ticking in AM service agent circles; the Vanquish engine was a different design so didn't tick, and since 2009 the V12 has been re-designed - funnily enough they don't tick. Also, it is AM policy to not repair these older V12 engines; instead, AM offered training to individual agents on how to repair such engine issues, but the cost of the work actually exceeds getting a replacement engine! I am now weighing up having the oil pump replaced at my next service - along with cam chain adjusters as it seems prudent to do so when front of engine is off....... Thoughts gentlemen?
The oil sender unit is screwed in to the back of the cylinder head, for RH drive models this is on the drivers side and is the higher of the two gallery end points. (nearest the inlet side)
There are 4 blanking points in total with the one above used.
You can very easily use any of the other 3 to either add your own oil pressure sender or bridge across the end galleries Low-High across the opposing engine sides.
What this would do in the unfortunate event of possibly low oil pressure to one gallery the pressure form the others will cross feed in to the rear end to maintain supply.
The only exception to this wold be total failure of the pump to provide any oil pressure at all either momentarily or permanently.
I still like the idea of an oil Accumulator system. This is a pressurised vessel that holds a quantity of oil.
Upon powering up the ignition it pre-oils all the cam journals which then will bleed down to the sump.
Upon engine start the oil galleries will be pre-filled and pressure will come up instantly so no more cold start rev rash.
The accumulator then re-charges over several minutes so it does not reduce the normal running pressure.
This would usually be completed during the initial warm up cycle before most people would even pull away.
The system not only provides pre-start pre-oiling but in the event of a drop in pressure during use, the system detects this and increases oil to the engine.
It's not a fix for problem but it's most certainly a safety net and the pre-oiling attributes make a lot of sense when cold cranking, as the oil is pressure fed to the engine before it even turns a single millimeter.
So beats the foot down cold crank to bring up pressure.
Also it is a belief that sludge can build up at the end of the cam galleries, as they are essentially a dead end.
Cross flowing the ends of these galleries with external pipe/tubing will remove the dead ends and allow clean oil to flow more freely.
The later higher capacity pumps wont eliminate sludge build up but they will provide much more oil to the gallery ends which is where the tappy lashes are often found.
It's all food for thought!
There are 4 blanking points in total with the one above used.
You can very easily use any of the other 3 to either add your own oil pressure sender or bridge across the end galleries Low-High across the opposing engine sides.
What this would do in the unfortunate event of possibly low oil pressure to one gallery the pressure form the others will cross feed in to the rear end to maintain supply.
The only exception to this wold be total failure of the pump to provide any oil pressure at all either momentarily or permanently.
I still like the idea of an oil Accumulator system. This is a pressurised vessel that holds a quantity of oil.
Upon powering up the ignition it pre-oils all the cam journals which then will bleed down to the sump.
Upon engine start the oil galleries will be pre-filled and pressure will come up instantly so no more cold start rev rash.
The accumulator then re-charges over several minutes so it does not reduce the normal running pressure.
This would usually be completed during the initial warm up cycle before most people would even pull away.
The system not only provides pre-start pre-oiling but in the event of a drop in pressure during use, the system detects this and increases oil to the engine.
It's not a fix for problem but it's most certainly a safety net and the pre-oiling attributes make a lot of sense when cold cranking, as the oil is pressure fed to the engine before it even turns a single millimeter.
So beats the foot down cold crank to bring up pressure.
Also it is a belief that sludge can build up at the end of the cam galleries, as they are essentially a dead end.
Cross flowing the ends of these galleries with external pipe/tubing will remove the dead ends and allow clean oil to flow more freely.
The later higher capacity pumps wont eliminate sludge build up but they will provide much more oil to the gallery ends which is where the tappy lashes are often found.
It's all food for thought!
Hello Boys and Girls, Have been away for a while and now the cooler weather is back I want to try and look at resolving this matter, it’s gone on long enough, although whether this problem is for resolving is another matter. 
Over the past few months I have been in contact with a few quite tech minded individual, 2 very good guys up north, one in Northern Ireland, Florida and more recently our Dubai contact, really does sound like a script from James Bond, with people that far away…..
DB7 and DB9 engines are, obviously different, but also the same, there seems to be a number of noises and ticks that emanate from them, there was a guy in Spain with a DBS and I understand that it was more an oscillation problem.
Our friend in Dubai and I think up north are (and it’s a guess) having problem with the Lashes etc, Myself and Florida are suffering a more deeper seated tick, but less intrusive.
What I did not know is that there are a lot of people with some sort of noise and as the V12’s get higher mileages, 50k + so the noises are starting to appear, what I’m saying is, its not just a few of us whack-ball idiots with a problem, more and people are joining our ranks.
There are some quite considerable forum threads on this and people are still adding to them now ....
http://www.dubaipetrolheads.com/car-chat/aston-db7...
http://www.dubaipetrolheads.com/car-chat/aston-db7...
http://www.amoc.org/forum/index.php?action=printpa...
http://www.astonmartinlife.com/forums/engine-ticki...
Not forgetting Piston heads
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=122...
…and of course this thread
There has been a number of ideas as to what it could be, very common were the changes of Lashes etc on the top of the engine. There has been a lot of talk about this and some people have done it and others have not. In some cases the lashes etc have been changed and no difference has occurred or the noise has come back after a while. TBH, I can see this coming back, if the lashes are responsible for the noise and they are changed, only the symptoms are being addressed and not the cause.
For me, I changed the lashes and a huge metallic, “tick”, on the drivers side of the engine went immediately, brilliant. But then ONLY AFTER the engine warmed up and reached normal operating temp, did a lesser tick appear, I think that tick was always there, but was hidden by the nice big tick on the top of the engine.
I can live with the tick, but for me I ask myself, “why should I”, and to be honest it detracts fro the love of the machine, who wants a gloriously elegant machine with a tick?
Other ideas, and sound ideas as well, were not the cause. I changed the injectors, the exhaust joints, the exhaust manifold gaskets, more recently I was told it could be bearings or piston slap. I dropped the sump and changed the bearings. I am currently putting the engine back together and hope to start to run it in the next week or so, but the bearing shells I took out were as good as the day they went in, I also looked at the rest of the engine and piston bores were perfect, almost text book like, so is it piston slap, I very very much doubt it.
I also was told that the flywheel and the, pressure plate bolted to it, could be cracked and making the ticking noise, this sounded like a serious contender. Changed the plate, but it did not resolve the issue.
When running I will warm her up and wait for the tick, then disconnect the ancillaries and see if any of those were making a noise. I very much doubt this will do anything, but its certain a easy way of checking a lot quickly. If the bearing were going on the alternator, then I have a feeling that a grinding noise would be made.
Incidentally I asked Aston Martin for a tool that slackens off the drive belt, they said it was about £350.00 plus vat, but they would not sell it to me in any event, as they only sold it to Aston garages, so I went on to eBay and bought this…
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-Piece-Ratchet-Action-...
Seems to fit mine and 10% of the costs, result. Thanks Aston, you saved me over £400.00.
Oil viscosity, there has been a discussion about this, I too have used different oils, all to no avail. DB9 is 0-40, available is 5-50 and 10-60, in the USA 0-50 is available (but not in the UK). Personally I have come to the conclusion not to. Use the 0-40, if you read through one of the forum threads, GTDB7 has discussed this and explained that the thicker oil may not make it all the way to the top of the engine, which is what we don’t want. GTDB7 does go into some detail.
In theory, in hot countries they should use thicker oil. But thinking about it, you only need thinner oil in a cold country on start up. Once started, the engines (all over the world) should run, “about”, the same temperature.
I could drone on and on, but the other forum links are interesting, and worth a read
if you have this issue, or if your engine is starting to get noisy. This is important, my engine did NOT develop a noise over night, it was a very slow process and gradually got worse, but then once a noise was apparent, it has not got any worse.
Other people on the link have terrible rattley engines, only to be told by Aston, “its normal”, in the links these people have had engine failures, which is understandable. If the engine came out of the factory, nice and tight and quiet, it cannot be normal for the engine to tick like a bag of nails.
From all nations across the world, people seem to be ranting on about the oil pump.
Either the oil pump is making the noise its self, or its not pumping enough oil and making something else tick through lack of oil or oil pressure. The oil pump could be worn and not providing enough pressure. Again GTDB7 has said that at tick over, the oil pressure is low and returns to normal when driving.
This could be important….
My tick ONLY appears when the engine is warmed up, and appears on queue….! As I rev the engine, even slightly, the tick goes, so I am not driving around with a ticky engine, only when stuck in traffic …….. Question is, is this a pump issue.
Alternatively, is the tick still there, but that the noise of the engine overtakes the tick, and the tick is still there, but I just cannot hear it. Having said that, I have driven quite a few miles and the engine runs like a turbine
, not a hint of a problem.
If it was the pump, what can be done?
Correct me if I am wrong, I’m sure people will, did this engine not start out as a XJS engine? Certainly the DB7 engine is the same as the DB9 and the Vanquish and indeed the DBS, its just all the bits and pieces on the outside that are the same and the engines itself has just been evolved.
The original DB9 oil pump part number has changed some what…
Original --- 4G4E-6621-AB
Ist evolution --- 8G43-6660-AB
Final evolution --- 8G43-04-11112
A Franchise dealer tells me that the current pump is the same for the DB9 as the DBS, so if I wanted a pump for my DB9, they will give me a DBS pump, brilliant ……..
So why does someone not just change the pump and see?
Ummmm, well first it cost £528.00 plus VAT
, then you have the labour to put the damned thing in. Its not bolted on the side of the engine, its embedded in the engine.
I’m not certain as to what to do, but it looks like you take off the AirCon radiator, and the Coolant radiator, then the drive belt and any ancillaries, the camshaft covers, then the front engine cover. Then the cam chain, or chains, replace the pump and put back.
I contacted HR Owen in Cheltenham who want 26 hours at £136.00 per hour plus vat. Cardiff want 20 hours, and gave a cost of £3,300.00 plus vat, but he might be able to cut me a deal.
But at £4,000.00 plus vat, plus other stuff, then £5,000.00 is a lot of money to bury in a theory…..
I did take the car to Exeter Franchise dealer, who looked at the engine and said, “we don’t know”, then charged me £180.00 for the privilege of that information. I was impressed……
So what to do now
, I think, aside from the oil pump and the ancillaries, I’ve tried most things. GT has just emailed and pointed out that whilst we can try all these things, at the end of the day it could be anything such as a piston ring etc.
What to do now …… ?
I have posted a separate thread on Piston Heads asking if anyone knows of an email address for Gaydon Tech Engineers. We could really do with their help….. I am guessing they are fearful that there will be a long trail of law suits, but I don’t think there will. If the engine fails after 6 months then, yes, Aston have an issue, but with the engines making a decade old and 100k miles, then I fail to see what Aston are worried about.
Having said that, are our engines designed for this kind of mileage? Look at the Lambo V12, I’m told a clutch lasts 5000 miles (if you’re lucky) and the engines are being rebuild all the time.
…am of course very interested as to what others are experiencing with this issue…….
Over the past few months I have been in contact with a few quite tech minded individual, 2 very good guys up north, one in Northern Ireland, Florida and more recently our Dubai contact, really does sound like a script from James Bond, with people that far away…..
DB7 and DB9 engines are, obviously different, but also the same, there seems to be a number of noises and ticks that emanate from them, there was a guy in Spain with a DBS and I understand that it was more an oscillation problem.
Our friend in Dubai and I think up north are (and it’s a guess) having problem with the Lashes etc, Myself and Florida are suffering a more deeper seated tick, but less intrusive.
What I did not know is that there are a lot of people with some sort of noise and as the V12’s get higher mileages, 50k + so the noises are starting to appear, what I’m saying is, its not just a few of us whack-ball idiots with a problem, more and people are joining our ranks.
There are some quite considerable forum threads on this and people are still adding to them now ....
http://www.dubaipetrolheads.com/car-chat/aston-db7...
http://www.dubaipetrolheads.com/car-chat/aston-db7...
http://www.amoc.org/forum/index.php?action=printpa...
http://www.astonmartinlife.com/forums/engine-ticki...
Not forgetting Piston heads
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=122...
…and of course this thread
There has been a number of ideas as to what it could be, very common were the changes of Lashes etc on the top of the engine. There has been a lot of talk about this and some people have done it and others have not. In some cases the lashes etc have been changed and no difference has occurred or the noise has come back after a while. TBH, I can see this coming back, if the lashes are responsible for the noise and they are changed, only the symptoms are being addressed and not the cause.
For me, I changed the lashes and a huge metallic, “tick”, on the drivers side of the engine went immediately, brilliant. But then ONLY AFTER the engine warmed up and reached normal operating temp, did a lesser tick appear, I think that tick was always there, but was hidden by the nice big tick on the top of the engine.
I can live with the tick, but for me I ask myself, “why should I”, and to be honest it detracts fro the love of the machine, who wants a gloriously elegant machine with a tick?
Other ideas, and sound ideas as well, were not the cause. I changed the injectors, the exhaust joints, the exhaust manifold gaskets, more recently I was told it could be bearings or piston slap. I dropped the sump and changed the bearings. I am currently putting the engine back together and hope to start to run it in the next week or so, but the bearing shells I took out were as good as the day they went in, I also looked at the rest of the engine and piston bores were perfect, almost text book like, so is it piston slap, I very very much doubt it.
I also was told that the flywheel and the, pressure plate bolted to it, could be cracked and making the ticking noise, this sounded like a serious contender. Changed the plate, but it did not resolve the issue.
When running I will warm her up and wait for the tick, then disconnect the ancillaries and see if any of those were making a noise. I very much doubt this will do anything, but its certain a easy way of checking a lot quickly. If the bearing were going on the alternator, then I have a feeling that a grinding noise would be made.
Incidentally I asked Aston Martin for a tool that slackens off the drive belt, they said it was about £350.00 plus vat, but they would not sell it to me in any event, as they only sold it to Aston garages, so I went on to eBay and bought this…
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-Piece-Ratchet-Action-...
Seems to fit mine and 10% of the costs, result. Thanks Aston, you saved me over £400.00.
Oil viscosity, there has been a discussion about this, I too have used different oils, all to no avail. DB9 is 0-40, available is 5-50 and 10-60, in the USA 0-50 is available (but not in the UK). Personally I have come to the conclusion not to. Use the 0-40, if you read through one of the forum threads, GTDB7 has discussed this and explained that the thicker oil may not make it all the way to the top of the engine, which is what we don’t want. GTDB7 does go into some detail.
In theory, in hot countries they should use thicker oil. But thinking about it, you only need thinner oil in a cold country on start up. Once started, the engines (all over the world) should run, “about”, the same temperature.
I could drone on and on, but the other forum links are interesting, and worth a read
if you have this issue, or if your engine is starting to get noisy. This is important, my engine did NOT develop a noise over night, it was a very slow process and gradually got worse, but then once a noise was apparent, it has not got any worse.Other people on the link have terrible rattley engines, only to be told by Aston, “its normal”, in the links these people have had engine failures, which is understandable. If the engine came out of the factory, nice and tight and quiet, it cannot be normal for the engine to tick like a bag of nails.
From all nations across the world, people seem to be ranting on about the oil pump.
Either the oil pump is making the noise its self, or its not pumping enough oil and making something else tick through lack of oil or oil pressure. The oil pump could be worn and not providing enough pressure. Again GTDB7 has said that at tick over, the oil pressure is low and returns to normal when driving.
This could be important….
My tick ONLY appears when the engine is warmed up, and appears on queue….! As I rev the engine, even slightly, the tick goes, so I am not driving around with a ticky engine, only when stuck in traffic …….. Question is, is this a pump issue.
Alternatively, is the tick still there, but that the noise of the engine overtakes the tick, and the tick is still there, but I just cannot hear it. Having said that, I have driven quite a few miles and the engine runs like a turbine
, not a hint of a problem. If it was the pump, what can be done?
Correct me if I am wrong, I’m sure people will, did this engine not start out as a XJS engine? Certainly the DB7 engine is the same as the DB9 and the Vanquish and indeed the DBS, its just all the bits and pieces on the outside that are the same and the engines itself has just been evolved.
The original DB9 oil pump part number has changed some what…
Original --- 4G4E-6621-AB
Ist evolution --- 8G43-6660-AB
Final evolution --- 8G43-04-11112
A Franchise dealer tells me that the current pump is the same for the DB9 as the DBS, so if I wanted a pump for my DB9, they will give me a DBS pump, brilliant ……..
So why does someone not just change the pump and see?
Ummmm, well first it cost £528.00 plus VAT
, then you have the labour to put the damned thing in. Its not bolted on the side of the engine, its embedded in the engine. I’m not certain as to what to do, but it looks like you take off the AirCon radiator, and the Coolant radiator, then the drive belt and any ancillaries, the camshaft covers, then the front engine cover. Then the cam chain, or chains, replace the pump and put back.
I contacted HR Owen in Cheltenham who want 26 hours at £136.00 per hour plus vat. Cardiff want 20 hours, and gave a cost of £3,300.00 plus vat, but he might be able to cut me a deal.
But at £4,000.00 plus vat, plus other stuff, then £5,000.00 is a lot of money to bury in a theory…..
I did take the car to Exeter Franchise dealer, who looked at the engine and said, “we don’t know”, then charged me £180.00 for the privilege of that information. I was impressed……
So what to do now
, I think, aside from the oil pump and the ancillaries, I’ve tried most things. GT has just emailed and pointed out that whilst we can try all these things, at the end of the day it could be anything such as a piston ring etc.What to do now …… ?
I have posted a separate thread on Piston Heads asking if anyone knows of an email address for Gaydon Tech Engineers. We could really do with their help….. I am guessing they are fearful that there will be a long trail of law suits, but I don’t think there will. If the engine fails after 6 months then, yes, Aston have an issue, but with the engines making a decade old and 100k miles, then I fail to see what Aston are worried about.
Having said that, are our engines designed for this kind of mileage? Look at the Lambo V12, I’m told a clutch lasts 5000 miles (if you’re lucky) and the engines are being rebuild all the time.
…am of course very interested as to what others are experiencing with this issue…….
The very simple solution to determining whether it is an oil pressure issue is to install an oil pressure gauge. This would not diagnose a mechanical tick from the pump, but would diagnose a loss of oil pressure at idle below an acceptable level.
If this were to be the case, then replacing the oil pump would not be a waste of time. I believe 0W40 is too thin anyway and so would try the 10W60 and then recheck the oil pressure under the same conditions.
Another trick I use in this sort of case is to listen to the noise and see if it relates directly to engine speed or half engine speed. That then narrows it down to either a rotating mass at the bottom end or if half speed, a cam/valve issue. You can actually put a paint mark on the crank pulley and your eyes and ears can usually determine if you hear the click every time the paint matk flashes past. Easiest with an old fashioned timing light but difficult to get access to the ignition on the V12.
A video with audio thats slowed down significantly can show this clearly and maybe even worth renting a camera for a day to try if you do not have access to such a camera.
If this were to be the case, then replacing the oil pump would not be a waste of time. I believe 0W40 is too thin anyway and so would try the 10W60 and then recheck the oil pressure under the same conditions.
Another trick I use in this sort of case is to listen to the noise and see if it relates directly to engine speed or half engine speed. That then narrows it down to either a rotating mass at the bottom end or if half speed, a cam/valve issue. You can actually put a paint mark on the crank pulley and your eyes and ears can usually determine if you hear the click every time the paint matk flashes past. Easiest with an old fashioned timing light but difficult to get access to the ignition on the V12.
A video with audio thats slowed down significantly can show this clearly and maybe even worth renting a camera for a day to try if you do not have access to such a camera.
Thats top end noise then.
Everything attached directly to the crank runs at engine speed.
I would therefore be looking at cam, followers and valve springs. Favourite guess would be a lash adjuster.
The lash adjusters are effectively hydraulic cylinders fitted with a non return valve and a pressure relief valve. If either are weeping or stuck, then the lower oil flow at idle could allow the adjuster to bleed-off too much oil and start tapping. As soon as the revs pick up, the oil flow increases and could effectively flow more in than the cylinder weeps out.
The test for this is remove the cam covers and any lash adjusters that are loose, have a weep as the valve clearance on these is effectively zero.
However, depending on your budget capability, having gone that far, I would always replace them as a set.
Have you tried hydraulic follower/tappet cleaner. It was a MAJOR problem on the Ford Zetec engine, and the AM V12 aint a million miles away from the same design.
FORD tappet.........
[pic]
[/pic]
ASTON V12 tappet.........
[pic]
[/pic]
8Tech
Everything attached directly to the crank runs at engine speed.
I would therefore be looking at cam, followers and valve springs. Favourite guess would be a lash adjuster.
The lash adjusters are effectively hydraulic cylinders fitted with a non return valve and a pressure relief valve. If either are weeping or stuck, then the lower oil flow at idle could allow the adjuster to bleed-off too much oil and start tapping. As soon as the revs pick up, the oil flow increases and could effectively flow more in than the cylinder weeps out.
The test for this is remove the cam covers and any lash adjusters that are loose, have a weep as the valve clearance on these is effectively zero.
However, depending on your budget capability, having gone that far, I would always replace them as a set.
Have you tried hydraulic follower/tappet cleaner. It was a MAJOR problem on the Ford Zetec engine, and the AM V12 aint a million miles away from the same design.
FORD tappet.........
[pic]
[/pic]ASTON V12 tappet.........
[pic]
[/pic]8Tech
Edited by 8Tech on Friday 30th August 17:19
You add it to the oil and then run the car for a while, then change oil and filter.
I have used Wynns with some success but since the Ford problem, there are plenty out there on the market with slightly differing methods of use.
As you will hopefully only need it once, use a well known branded product and follow the instructions to the letter.
Good luck, it could save a huge repair bill.
I have used Wynns with some success but since the Ford problem, there are plenty out there on the market with slightly differing methods of use.
As you will hopefully only need it once, use a well known branded product and follow the instructions to the letter.
Good luck, it could save a huge repair bill.
I can't remember who/where I read about loosening and then pre-loading one of the camshaft bearing caps to eliminate the noise (Duratec V6), which was quite astounding to read, especially since it was a Ford developed procedure in response to customer complaints of ticking engines. Since the engine valve train is the same, this would be something I would definitely try before ripping apart an engine or replacing any parts.
Didn't we share this info on one of these threads related to engine ticking and rebuilds?
Didn't we share this info on one of these threads related to engine ticking and rebuilds?
The Ford TSB for the Cam caps is a slightly different valve train.
Those engines use buckets and shims whereas the AM uses followers and lashes.
Unsure if the cam cap (bearing cap) is of the same design.
I guess it couldn't hurt applying some of the logic and checking during a top end rebuild.
Those engines use buckets and shims whereas the AM uses followers and lashes.
Unsure if the cam cap (bearing cap) is of the same design.
I guess it couldn't hurt applying some of the logic and checking during a top end rebuild.
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