850 CSi - first steps
Discussion
niki0712 said:
and that was it for yesterday! Well, not quite, I also changed the windscreen wipers. Not sure exactly why though.
Now, today I want to refill the transmission oil.
Two questions: is that the right screw?
and if yes - how to get it loose?! That thing is solid...I soaked it in WD40, and I hope that will have done the job. Can@t get to it with a wrench - it'll have to be muscle power...
Any advice?
If you don't want a rounded bolt stuck in the sump, then :Now, today I want to refill the transmission oil.
Two questions: is that the right screw?
and if yes - how to get it loose?! That thing is solid...I soaked it in WD40, and I hope that will have done the job. Can@t get to it with a wrench - it'll have to be muscle power...
Any advice?
A good quality socket and one of these
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
Rocksteadyeddie said:
NiceCupOfTea said:
Use lashings of plusgas or equivalent rather than wd40, and leave overnight.
^^This^^ If space permits make a small "well" around the offending bolt with some electricians tape to avoid all the Plusgas just running straight off. There will be a correct way to set the level in the transmission that will involve having the engine running with the car up in the air and level. The oil will need to be a known temperature within low limits and you will need to move it through the gears at idle, so it needs to be very stable! Preferably on a hoist.
For now I'd do as suggested and check what has come out and put the same amount back. You will probably struggle to get it back in to the same volume without the engine running so keep a note of what goes in so when it's up and running you can get a bit more in before having it checked properly.
I'd maybe lay out a list of jobs and get some expert advice via this thread on the order to attack them - from above it sounds like doing the plugs at the rear of the engine while the cabin filters were out would save you taking them out again to gain access to the plug
For now I'd do as suggested and check what has come out and put the same amount back. You will probably struggle to get it back in to the same volume without the engine running so keep a note of what goes in so when it's up and running you can get a bit more in before having it checked properly.
I'd maybe lay out a list of jobs and get some expert advice via this thread on the order to attack them - from above it sounds like doing the plugs at the rear of the engine while the cabin filters were out would save you taking them out again to gain access to the plug
Adrian E said:
There will be a correct way to set the level in the transmission that will involve having the engine running with the car up in the air and level. The oil will need to be a known temperature within low limits and you will need to move it through the gears at idle, so it needs to be very stable! Preferably on a hoist.
For now I'd do as suggested and check what has come out and put the same amount back. You will probably struggle to get it back in to the same volume without the engine running so keep a note of what goes in so when it's up and running you can get a bit more in before having it checked properly.
Correct advice if it was an auto. For now I'd do as suggested and check what has come out and put the same amount back. You will probably struggle to get it back in to the same volume without the engine running so keep a note of what goes in so when it's up and running you can get a bit more in before having it checked properly.
I would have a mini blowlamp on the alloy around that fill plug and a good fitting spanner. Make sure you get the exact spec oil for the (Manual) box.roofer said:
Adrian E said:
There will be a correct way to set the level in the transmission that will involve having the engine running with the car up in the air and level. The oil will need to be a known temperature within low limits and you will need to move it through the gears at idle, so it needs to be very stable! Preferably on a hoist.
For now I'd do as suggested and check what has come out and put the same amount back. You will probably struggle to get it back in to the same volume without the engine running so keep a note of what goes in so when it's up and running you can get a bit more in before having it checked properly.
Correct advice if it was an auto. For now I'd do as suggested and check what has come out and put the same amount back. You will probably struggle to get it back in to the same volume without the engine running so keep a note of what goes in so when it's up and running you can get a bit more in before having it checked properly.
I would have a mini blowlamp on the alloy around that fill plug and a good fitting spanner. Make sure you get the exact spec oil for the (Manual) box.Still helps to have it level when filling and I'd still check if there's a specific method according to BMW for filling it, just in case.
I'll get my coat.....
griffter said:
olly22n said:
6 sided spanner and give it a good, sharp thwack with a lump hammer.
Or as long a breaker bar as you can find. Then pull on the breaker bar and thwack with the hammer at the same time. Discovering and using these techniques is all part of the fun!griffter said:
Or as long a breaker bar as you can find. Then pull on the breaker bar and thwack with the hammer at the same time. Discovering and using these techniques is all part of the fun!
This is what i'd use, looks like there is enough space to get a socket and bar onto it, use a single hex socket rather than double as there is less chance of it rounding.If it's still solid some gentle heat from a blow torch will help, WD40 is only any use for cleaning stuff.
Looking forward to this firing up, the way these things are built though i wouldn't be surprised if it fires and runs perfect first turn.
Hope the clutch is ok though.
The Getrag type E 6 speed box is a chunky beast. Strong and beautifully made, it is well worth taking great care of. The internal parts are tricky to source and can be horrendously expensive. The oil that came out is probably BMW's 'sealed for life' Dextron ATF, though there will be a yellow sticker or tag on the box to confirm which oil to use.
The gearchange can be a bit clunky, stiff and recalcitrant, particularly when cold. The general consensus on oil amongst the CSi community is that Redline MTF suits it best, smoothing the feel and operation. Its expensive but really looks after the gearbox! I use it in mine and I like the way it feels. You'll have no internal wear with that mileage. Only 3rd gear synchromesh wears a bit over (a long) time. The gearchange linkage bushes also wear but again, yours should be fine as long as they're not all perished, which I doubt.
The gearchange can be a bit clunky, stiff and recalcitrant, particularly when cold. The general consensus on oil amongst the CSi community is that Redline MTF suits it best, smoothing the feel and operation. Its expensive but really looks after the gearbox! I use it in mine and I like the way it feels. You'll have no internal wear with that mileage. Only 3rd gear synchromesh wears a bit over (a long) time. The gearchange linkage bushes also wear but again, yours should be fine as long as they're not all perished, which I doubt.
To check for the correct oil, there will be a sticker on the side of the box as seen here on mine in orange.
The oil filler plug is the one you can see wire locked on the rear lower 3rd of the transmission in the pic. You keep pumping oil in until it starts to leak out of the filler plug, then you are done. Use a long series, 6 sided wrench and shock it with a dead blow hammer that should not skid off the wrench when hit.
8Tech.
The oil filler plug is the one you can see wire locked on the rear lower 3rd of the transmission in the pic. You keep pumping oil in until it starts to leak out of the filler plug, then you are done. Use a long series, 6 sided wrench and shock it with a dead blow hammer that should not skid off the wrench when hit.
8Tech.
Edited by 8Tech on Saturday 1st February 19:27
Talkwrench said:
The Getrag type E 6 speed box is a chunky beast. Strong and beautifully made, it is well worth taking great care of. The internal parts are tricky to source and can be horrendously expensive. The oil that came out is probably BMW's 'sealed for life' Dextron ATF, though there will be a yellow sticker or tag on the box to confirm which oil to use.
The gearchange can be a bit clunky, stiff and recalcitrant, particularly when cold. The general consensus on oil amongst the CSi community is that Redline MTF suits it best, smoothing the feel and operation. Its expensive but really looks after the gearbox! I use it in mine and I like the way it feels. You'll have no internal wear with that mileage. Only 3rd gear synchromesh wears a bit over (a long) time. The gearchange linkage bushes also wear but again, yours should be fine as long as they're not all perished, which I doubt.
It sounds like the same gearbox that's in my evo. If it is, theyre a bag of sThe gearchange can be a bit clunky, stiff and recalcitrant, particularly when cold. The general consensus on oil amongst the CSi community is that Redline MTF suits it best, smoothing the feel and operation. Its expensive but really looks after the gearbox! I use it in mine and I like the way it feels. You'll have no internal wear with that mileage. Only 3rd gear synchromesh wears a bit over (a long) time. The gearchange linkage bushes also wear but again, yours should be fine as long as they're not all perished, which I doubt.
t until they warm up, then theyre excellent.Have you checked for a CDV on it yet? If it has one, junk it and rebleed the system, it'll improve the change significantly.
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