E61 530i - What should I be looking for? (Advice)
Discussion
Surprisingly they’re halogen, H7 I’m assuming. Everything I’ve read says LCI is xenon but they aren’t, yet everything else is LCI, as far as I am aware. Certainly registered with the increased power of the LCI!
Going to try a straight bulb replacement this eve if I can get the lighting down the street. If not it’s a job tomorrow before I head for the expansion tank and coolant flush
I’ll report back any problems if they arise!
Going to try a straight bulb replacement this eve if I can get the lighting down the street. If not it’s a job tomorrow before I head for the expansion tank and coolant flush
I’ll report back any problems if they arise!
Big birds got a problem!
First real issue I've had with her and I'm preparing for something expensive, good job its bonus month at work
Starting up from cold - very sluggish start almost every start-up now. Rev's dip and fluctuate around 300 rpm and at points feels as though the car is going to stall. 50% of the time it recovers after a few dips, the other 50% it throws up the Engine Management in amber. When it does that, a quick stop start and she runs a dream.
Its been running OK after start up for the last few days - while I've got her booked in for Thursday afternoon, however this morning; hitting the start button the car didn't start. Took 5 attempts to get going, sluggish start again, EML in amber, stopped it and started again and away she goes. Now she's sounding a little more grunty and exhausted than ever before.
I had a little plug in after the first instance. Shown a misfire but that's as much as my tool will tell me, hopefully tell me more on Thursday when its in with a local Indy. Doesn't seem like the rough cold idle and failure to start would be just a misfire, however?
Any idea on the above?
Im hoping worst case is a/few new injectors? if so can you replace to different index on just one or a few or should you do the lot/a bank?
Fella at work reckons starter motor on small convo we just had now.
Ill be put out of my misery tomorrow i'm sure but a headsup on what to expect would be appreciated!
First real issue I've had with her and I'm preparing for something expensive, good job its bonus month at work
Starting up from cold - very sluggish start almost every start-up now. Rev's dip and fluctuate around 300 rpm and at points feels as though the car is going to stall. 50% of the time it recovers after a few dips, the other 50% it throws up the Engine Management in amber. When it does that, a quick stop start and she runs a dream.
Its been running OK after start up for the last few days - while I've got her booked in for Thursday afternoon, however this morning; hitting the start button the car didn't start. Took 5 attempts to get going, sluggish start again, EML in amber, stopped it and started again and away she goes. Now she's sounding a little more grunty and exhausted than ever before.
I had a little plug in after the first instance. Shown a misfire but that's as much as my tool will tell me, hopefully tell me more on Thursday when its in with a local Indy. Doesn't seem like the rough cold idle and failure to start would be just a misfire, however?
Any idea on the above?
Im hoping worst case is a/few new injectors? if so can you replace to different index on just one or a few or should you do the lot/a bank?
Fella at work reckons starter motor on small convo we just had now.
Ill be put out of my misery tomorrow i'm sure but a headsup on what to expect would be appreciated!
bmwmike said:
If it's the n53 engine check for evidence of injectors and coilpacks etc being done fairly recently. If it's cheap and seems too good to be true it probably needs a set of injectors. You need to see it cold start after standing all night, check exhaust for black smoke puff or blue smoke puff, both of which may mean leaky injector, as fuel leaks into the chamber overnight. It may start misfiring too. If the idle is smooth and no smoke, may be ok.
If it's n52 less issues.
2007 is cut over for n52 then later n53 so it could be either.
Like this... If it's n52 less issues.
2007 is cut over for n52 then later n53 so it could be either.
bmwmike said:
Did the garage do any actual diagnosis, read the codes, etc, or just swap the coils?
Full diagnosis, aside for a little AC sensor issue and another couple minor alerts just the misfire, they’ve swapped them and soon as the EML happens again I can just whip it in for a quick check. Obviously hoping it’s a cheaper issue, but that being said, if it’s an injector I’m going to take the dive and go for all 6 on index 12s.
In for a penny, in for a pound, the missus won’t be happy but I just paid for her airport parking at £60, so I’d say that’ll cover it
I did notice the power steering fluid has slightly leaked through the cap, noticeable because the engine bay is absolutely immaculate all the time, and only done 63k miles so there’s barely any wear and tear in there.
Been told sometimes it vents out if it’s reached a high temp/pressure, so I’ve wiped it down and will monitor, but it’s nothing related to the current issue…. Or I can’t see how it can be!
d_a_n1979 said:
Hero Dan! 
If this doesn’t turn out to be an expensive endeavour I may have to jump on those
bmwmike said:
That's just what hydraulic PS systems do in my experience. Maybe change the fluid if its not still red.
Re the injectors, sounds like they just read the codes. Fair enough, and indeed, a misfire could well be a coilpack, or plugs, or injectors, but it won't cause a sluggish start as you previously mentioned, assuming i'm interpreting your description accurately. I'd maybe check the battery voltage and health, if its the original or unknown etc it might be time for a new one, or just a charge up with a charger if the car is used for short journeys.
Morning Mike,Re the injectors, sounds like they just read the codes. Fair enough, and indeed, a misfire could well be a coilpack, or plugs, or injectors, but it won't cause a sluggish start as you previously mentioned, assuming i'm interpreting your description accurately. I'd maybe check the battery voltage and health, if its the original or unknown etc it might be time for a new one, or just a charge up with a charger if the car is used for short journeys.
I had the battery changed as par for course a few months ago, and registered. Its a OEM+ replacement from my Approved indy so I assume it was up to the job! Its run faultless since its change up until a couple weeks ago, but I did raise it when I was there, In fairness they had the car near 3 hours digging, and I have a good relationship with them so Im hopeful they checked it over as I relayed your comments from above!
Its far from over so Ill persevere! Ill have a check over the paperwork this evening and check the replacement re:specs though, so thank you!
d_a_n1979 said:
Just get them bought and then slip into denial
Not cheap either and rarely crop up; my pal wanted a set for his E90 M3 and never found them in the 12 months he had the car; there is a set here though
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186260683026?itmmeta=01...
You'll need fairly aggressive spacers too; E6x offset for 18s is around 20 IIRC - so you'll need thick spacers to get them to sit right unfortunately
IMO these would be a much better buy:
https://www.bmautosport.co.uk/showroom/product_inf...
20ET from my head for mine aye, looks as though those 260s really sit in them! Not cheap either and rarely crop up; my pal wanted a set for his E90 M3 and never found them in the 12 months he had the car; there is a set here though
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186260683026?itmmeta=01...
You'll need fairly aggressive spacers too; E6x offset for 18s is around 20 IIRC - so you'll need thick spacers to get them to sit right unfortunately
IMO these would be a much better buy:
https://www.bmautosport.co.uk/showroom/product_inf...
But anyway you're a bad influence
Edited by axel1990chp on Friday 19th April 09:53
So the issue continues.
Pack to cylinder 2, plug to cylinder 3.
Issue still pops up on cylinder 1.
Injector swapped to cylinder 3.
Issue STILL pops up on cylinder 1.
I guess it isn’t looking good right this moment, any ideas where to start looking next?
Going to have a compression and leak test booked in, hoping it’s some seal that’s the issue (problem only occurs on cold start), but it’s also leaving me wondering, what could be the worst case here? Full rebuild?
Feeling a pretty time consuming and expensive way forward, not sure I have that available to me at this current time in life!
Pack to cylinder 2, plug to cylinder 3.
Issue still pops up on cylinder 1.
Injector swapped to cylinder 3.
Issue STILL pops up on cylinder 1.
I guess it isn’t looking good right this moment, any ideas where to start looking next?
Going to have a compression and leak test booked in, hoping it’s some seal that’s the issue (problem only occurs on cold start), but it’s also leaving me wondering, what could be the worst case here? Full rebuild?
Feeling a pretty time consuming and expensive way forward, not sure I have that available to me at this current time in life!
bmwmike said:
The DME measures the combustion on a per bank basis. Basically a lean or rich (leaky injector) condition in one cylinder can show up as a misfire in an adjacent cylinder as the DME struggles to manage the trims/ratios.
Explains better than I can: https://bimmerprofs.com/misfires-lambda-probes/
Cheers Mike I’ll give that a scowering over dinner tonight! Explains better than I can: https://bimmerprofs.com/misfires-lambda-probes/
DKIE92 said:
At the mileage your car is at, I wouldn’t be thinking about a rebuild just yet.
Is it right that your car is at a dealer? You can test the injectors on ISTA which is dealer level software, so if the car is at a dealer I assume they’ve done that?
It’s at a Local approved Indy, they’ve been straight shooters with me and there’s a good relationship, not sure if they have this available to them, but I’ve fired off an email with some info I’ve managed to quickly compile so they can assure me of what they’re going to try and do and why! Is it right that your car is at a dealer? You can test the injectors on ISTA which is dealer level software, so if the car is at a dealer I assume they’ve done that?
From the Indy today;
"Hi, Luke. Just a bit of info for you on yours... Good news is that the Compression test…is all cylinders ok. all cylinders are at 11bar.
We have checked the injector values.
We will need to retest when cold as the misfire is not apparent when warm
Our next step is to scope the injectors to check the signal and determine the cause of the misfire. The signal is grounded through the ecu, these can suffer with ECU failures that cause misfires, so will update you hopefully tomorrow with the outcome of the further testing if that's okay with you? "
Not too savvy here, but as always, I welcome a second opinion/experience if anyone has it! Always take a learning opportunity and this seems like one, if anyone is so kind?
"Hi, Luke. Just a bit of info for you on yours... Good news is that the Compression test…is all cylinders ok. all cylinders are at 11bar.
We have checked the injector values.
We will need to retest when cold as the misfire is not apparent when warm
Our next step is to scope the injectors to check the signal and determine the cause of the misfire. The signal is grounded through the ecu, these can suffer with ECU failures that cause misfires, so will update you hopefully tomorrow with the outcome of the further testing if that's okay with you? "
Not too savvy here, but as always, I welcome a second opinion/experience if anyone has it! Always take a learning opportunity and this seems like one, if anyone is so kind?
Injector confirmed.
Been sent a bill of 3595 for all 6, labour included from the last few days diagnostics etc too.
Asking to get a price check from BMW on the Index 11's to see if they'll come down at all.
ML performance have them at 386.50 which is about 60 quid saving from what I'm being quoted per discounted injector currently.
Get a 3 year warranty and unlimited mileage with the BMW ones, ML states 2, but I'm wondering what their warranty is worth when push comes to shove.
Was to be expected, and its a hefty sum to chuck at a 17 year old car, but its worth it when you get the calculator out and do the man math
Currently waiting for a return e-mail with the finalised price (if it changes) and I'll pull the trigger on it.
Currently borrowing an '06 X5 from the Goose while she's away, I've never seen such a mistreated and disregarded vehicle in all my life.
Been sent a bill of 3595 for all 6, labour included from the last few days diagnostics etc too.
Asking to get a price check from BMW on the Index 11's to see if they'll come down at all.
ML performance have them at 386.50 which is about 60 quid saving from what I'm being quoted per discounted injector currently.
Get a 3 year warranty and unlimited mileage with the BMW ones, ML states 2, but I'm wondering what their warranty is worth when push comes to shove.
Was to be expected, and its a hefty sum to chuck at a 17 year old car, but its worth it when you get the calculator out and do the man math
Currently waiting for a return e-mail with the finalised price (if it changes) and I'll pull the trigger on it.
Currently borrowing an '06 X5 from the Goose while she's away, I've never seen such a mistreated and disregarded vehicle in all my life.
Court_S said:
Ouch, that’s a chunky old bill.
The cost of the index 11/12 injectors is a pisstake since Covid.
You're telling me The cost of the index 11/12 injectors is a pisstake since Covid.
I think she's worth it though the old girl.Managed to get it down to £3150 all in. The warranty has swayed me with the direct from BMW parts so let's hope this is the end of it....
Im putting nothing but good intentions and positive outlook into the future, a healthy HPFP included!
bmwmike said:
NOx sensor enters the chat.
Just kidding, glad you got it sorted.
Think my missus would leave me if any more big bills come in Just kidding, glad you got it sorted.
Cheers Mike!d_a_n1979 said:
That is a huge bill But if it future proofs the car and you'll keep running it/maintaining etc then why not
Still a great car and great engine
Exactly my sentiments Dan, I leave it, flog it at a massive loss and have to find something anyway. But if it future proofs the car and you'll keep running it/maintaining etc then why notStill a great car and great engine
Few small jobs left to finish with it, front passenger window goes down when you press up, and visa versa, minor inconvenience I've yet to look at.
Rear window heaters arent working either, all the wiring etc is spot on and everything else back there works, I reckon a fuse!
Update for my own memories, for anyone interested and anyone who may stumble upon this in the future; Well she’s back in the shop.
Hesitant to start when pressing the START button, hear the click, get a grog and then she springs to life.
I say springs to life, she’s back to rough idling, not as low revs and as chuggy as before, but definitely doing it for longer. Hit the accelerator to move off and there’s a little burp before it runs completely faultless and smooth for the entire drive thereafter.
No EML to speak of.
Engine is as clean as a whistle, no leaks, no pools, all pressure tests and smoke tests have been clear prior to this also.
I have the coolant LOW alarm coming up, has done sporadically since ownership, yet never having to top the coolant up. Took the plunge a few months back for a new expansion tank, problem still occurs. Opened the coolant the other morning and it was gassed up so the level float was poking high. Maybe they’re related? Maybe not.
Having spent a good portion of £4000 on this car in the last 8 months, a lovely cost of £500 a month I’m a little bit pissed at the Indy as you can imagine.
They’ve taken the car, I have it in writing that all investigation work is covered under them, and I’ll be pushing for any further work required to be done at an absolute deal of the century price too.
I’d say air is an issue personally, but seeing as it runs an absolute dream within a few seconds of the rough idle clearing up, I’m not sure how it can be the case.
Hesitant to start when pressing the START button, hear the click, get a grog and then she springs to life.
I say springs to life, she’s back to rough idling, not as low revs and as chuggy as before, but definitely doing it for longer. Hit the accelerator to move off and there’s a little burp before it runs completely faultless and smooth for the entire drive thereafter.
No EML to speak of.
Engine is as clean as a whistle, no leaks, no pools, all pressure tests and smoke tests have been clear prior to this also.
I have the coolant LOW alarm coming up, has done sporadically since ownership, yet never having to top the coolant up. Took the plunge a few months back for a new expansion tank, problem still occurs. Opened the coolant the other morning and it was gassed up so the level float was poking high. Maybe they’re related? Maybe not.
Having spent a good portion of £4000 on this car in the last 8 months, a lovely cost of £500 a month I’m a little bit pissed at the Indy as you can imagine.
They’ve taken the car, I have it in writing that all investigation work is covered under them, and I’ll be pushing for any further work required to be done at an absolute deal of the century price too.
I’d say air is an issue personally, but seeing as it runs an absolute dream within a few seconds of the rough idle clearing up, I’m not sure how it can be the case.
Upon pressing the start, the car starts to turn over, but cuts immediately before firing up, then limps itself into life straight after a seeming cutout.
The revs stay around 600-900 idling, fluctuating in irregular waves.
If I engage D/R and give it a little throttle, I get movement, then a jolt, as if the car momentarily bogged itself down before it all of a sudden drives completely faultless.
The battery was changed a few months back, I can’t recall the specs of it and I keep all my paperwork within the car, I’ve asked to keep the car as OEM+ as possible, so praying they’ve not been stupid enough to chuck a poor battery in there, but you never know, are you under the impression the battery/starter motor could be a problem issue?
I stressed the point re: N53 experience and was assured their 2 top techs who have a long history with mains BMW before setting up this approved Indy have the necessary skills to work with it, but then they’re not going to tell me all their techs are pants either are they
They’re running a few tests and checking it over tomorrow so hopefully come end of play I’ll at least have some info.
Worst case scenario I take it from them, with a full list of what they have and haven’t done and remortgage my house whilst going to a fairly local BMW dealer that’s the bells and whistles. I’ve heard bad things about my local BMW stratstone, so not optimistic there.
It was the Saturday morning the issues started immediately. If they don’t swap the sensor out themselves over this next work load, I’ll jump on it straight away, thank you
The revs stay around 600-900 idling, fluctuating in irregular waves.
If I engage D/R and give it a little throttle, I get movement, then a jolt, as if the car momentarily bogged itself down before it all of a sudden drives completely faultless.
The battery was changed a few months back, I can’t recall the specs of it and I keep all my paperwork within the car, I’ve asked to keep the car as OEM+ as possible, so praying they’ve not been stupid enough to chuck a poor battery in there, but you never know, are you under the impression the battery/starter motor could be a problem issue?
I stressed the point re: N53 experience and was assured their 2 top techs who have a long history with mains BMW before setting up this approved Indy have the necessary skills to work with it, but then they’re not going to tell me all their techs are pants either are they
They’re running a few tests and checking it over tomorrow so hopefully come end of play I’ll at least have some info.
Worst case scenario I take it from them, with a full list of what they have and haven’t done and remortgage my house whilst going to a fairly local BMW dealer that’s the bells and whistles. I’ve heard bad things about my local BMW stratstone, so not optimistic there.
DKIE92 said:
Was it running properly straight after the injector change?
For the coolant, it’s probably the sensor. I’m pretty sure the expansion tank doesn’t come with a new one (Could be wrong). If not, I’d change it.
I picked it up Friday evening, they’d been working on it in the morning and the car wasn’t “cold” when I collected it, worked perfectly for the drive home.For the coolant, it’s probably the sensor. I’m pretty sure the expansion tank doesn’t come with a new one (Could be wrong). If not, I’d change it.
It was the Saturday morning the issues started immediately. If they don’t swap the sensor out themselves over this next work load, I’ll jump on it straight away, thank you
Edited by axel1990chp on Tuesday 14th May 20:14
So here’s the fault codes;
Nothing untoward there!
They ran the battery and it passed, they’re sending a print out of that tomorrow, was meant to be this evening but I think it’s been lost in the conversation!
Had this from them in an email;
“ I have had our secondary technician carry out 2 separate smoke tests on the intake and exhaust system - there is currently zero leaks at the moment at all.
I am currently getting the intake manifold removed to inspect for defects/carbon build up. I would likely say this would be off by tomorrow lunch and can give you a further update on the findings.”
Nothing untoward there!
They ran the battery and it passed, they’re sending a print out of that tomorrow, was meant to be this evening but I think it’s been lost in the conversation!
Had this from them in an email;
“ I have had our secondary technician carry out 2 separate smoke tests on the intake and exhaust system - there is currently zero leaks at the moment at all.
I am currently getting the intake manifold removed to inspect for defects/carbon build up. I would likely say this would be off by tomorrow lunch and can give you a further update on the findings.”
d_a_n1979 said:
axel1990chp said:
bmwmike said:
I'd be checking battery state of charge and whether it's actually new. And codes. Read the codes.
I’ll ask them to email over the list of codes tomorrow and relay them here for sure 
Easy enough to check the battery voltages; need to be c12.4v engine off/car asleep and c14.4v with the engine running
Check at the battery terminals ideally - easy enough to sit the multimeter in the boot on top of the cover with it closed and locked, so you can see what the voltage settles too after c16m and it going to sleep
Any less than those and either you need a new battery or the alternator is having problems
However, the IBS could be at fault too
Would you suggest the issues you’ve mentioned would throw a wobble on the fault codes?
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