E36 cheap track day toy
Discussion
They are sided. The inner edge comes with a lot more tread and I suspect has worn as much, if not more. I just want to know if this has life left in it, from anyone who knows these tyres specifically. I’m sure it’s ok, but don’t want to be proved wrong whiles throwing it around in a race.
Back to the BM. Flew through her MOT last weekend, so I decided to try out a pub meet on the way home tonight.
Very nice group of guys with some very nice cars.
But more importantly I cracked on with some bonnet mopping between work and the meet.
This is definitely its best angle, but it is starting to look good.
Very nice group of guys with some very nice cars.
But more importantly I cracked on with some bonnet mopping between work and the meet.
This is definitely its best angle, but it is starting to look good.
It has all been a bit hectic recently trying to finish restoring this,
Whilst still trying to develop this
All while still doing the normal day job. But I have squeezed the 3 in a few evening last week.
Apart from the clutch not being up to the power, the last part of the engine swap was to sort out the battery relocation and wiring.
As you can see it was just in to get the engine up and running. The battery was still in the 318 location and the main live lead for the 328 (which located in the boot), just coiled up. Now it has been working. But after the last little lay up I was having to jump start it. This gave me the kick up the arse I needed to sort the whole thing.
I could have gone with a standard battery back in the boot with the loom routed through. But it’s not really my style. I started looking at lightweight batteries and had been doing some loom work on the Boxster already. I decided to go through the buildhead in the usual 328 way. But the car being a 318 originally there is no place for the loom.
Making sure to keep away from the pedal assembly I drilled out and fitted an insulated terminal.
A battery cut off, in a nice easy place is something I was determined to have after years of opening the bonnet up every time I put the car away.
Run up from the footwell, through the dash to the centre console then down to behind the passenger seat seemed to be the best route and place for the battery.
All plumed in and working. No more jump starting. A tidy engine bay and its lighter. Win win.
All plumed in and working. No more jump starting. A tidy engine bay and its lighter. Win win.
Clutch wise as usual I decided the easy way was not for me. Why would I want an upgraded 328 clutch when I can have an M5 clutch?
Whilst still trying to develop this
All while still doing the normal day job. But I have squeezed the 3 in a few evening last week.
Apart from the clutch not being up to the power, the last part of the engine swap was to sort out the battery relocation and wiring.
As you can see it was just in to get the engine up and running. The battery was still in the 318 location and the main live lead for the 328 (which located in the boot), just coiled up. Now it has been working. But after the last little lay up I was having to jump start it. This gave me the kick up the arse I needed to sort the whole thing.
I could have gone with a standard battery back in the boot with the loom routed through. But it’s not really my style. I started looking at lightweight batteries and had been doing some loom work on the Boxster already. I decided to go through the buildhead in the usual 328 way. But the car being a 318 originally there is no place for the loom.
Making sure to keep away from the pedal assembly I drilled out and fitted an insulated terminal.
A battery cut off, in a nice easy place is something I was determined to have after years of opening the bonnet up every time I put the car away.
Run up from the footwell, through the dash to the centre console then down to behind the passenger seat seemed to be the best route and place for the battery.
All plumed in and working. No more jump starting. A tidy engine bay and its lighter. Win win.
All plumed in and working. No more jump starting. A tidy engine bay and its lighter. Win win.
Clutch wise as usual I decided the easy way was not for me. Why would I want an upgraded 328 clutch when I can have an M5 clutch?
I’m glad you asked.
After a fair bit of research and weighing up the options I went for an M30 flywheel along with an E34 M5 clutch and an S50 slave cylinder. The M30 flywheel doesn’t have the right ring gear for this engine. But there is a chap in Moldova who skims them and will fit an M50/M52 ring gear.
It is slightly more expensive than an 328 flywheel, but then I would have had to get another Kevlar clutch or look at M3 kits etc.
The nice thing about this set up is you get a hefty clutch but it’s got a normal pedal feel. Also if and when I wear the clutch out, I only have to buy a standard one. Not some expensive stage 2 or 3 replacement.
It is all pretty uncharted waters though so I thought I better get cracking as it is bound to go wrong.
Wipped the box out after work last Friday.
The picture doesn’t really do the comparison justice. The original plate is 215mm while the M5 one is 240mm. But it’s not that, I know 25mm isn’t that much. It’s more the plates. I have done some big Porsche and AMG clutch’s over the years, but the springs and plate thickness are huge!
The e34 M5 came out of the box with more power than I will probably ever run. So we should be all good.
Then the problems started. Without the gearbox out it was quite hard to prepare.
I had been told M50 flywheel bolts were all I would need. But when I dropped these through the flywheel it was instantly obvious they weren’t long enough. Holding the flywheel up to the crank the bolts didn’t even reach the thread, which is slightly recessed.
I’m not blaming anyone. But from there I shall take control. As I have it all on the bench it’s just maths. I measured the depth of the crank holes and found a bolt of maximum 35mm was what was needed. M50 were 25mm and M44 40mm.
I’m not going searching through the parts catalog trying to find something that fits. So I went straight to an engineering supplier. M12x1.5x35 ordered, car pushed out and we wait.
As I had the time I also ordered some clutch bolts from the same guys. A couple were rounding off. They were also a bit long for the new set up. I could have cut them down but me being me, I decided to upgrade them from 8.8 steel to 12.9 like the flywheel bolts. A bag of 10 for three quid. It makes you wonder why nuts and bolts are so expensive. Just because it says BMW or whoever on the bag.
Two days later we start again. Pushed the car back in. Bolted the flywheel on. It looked great, then I noticed the next problem.
The heads on the flywheel bolts sit proud and the clutch plate sits on them rather than the surface itself.
Now the bolt heads are exactly the same as the M52 and M44. Maybe BMW used something else on earlier cars?
I got back on the research and found yes, the m30 had no shoulder on the head of the bolts.
Car pushed back out and more waiting. Starting to get worried. Got a track day booked next week.
Two days later more bolts turn up.
Finally it’s in.
It’s fair to say bleeding the clutch after swapping the slave cylinder was a sod. But it’s in and working. Now I just need to try and get some miles on it before Monday when she returns to the track.
After a fair bit of research and weighing up the options I went for an M30 flywheel along with an E34 M5 clutch and an S50 slave cylinder. The M30 flywheel doesn’t have the right ring gear for this engine. But there is a chap in Moldova who skims them and will fit an M50/M52 ring gear.
It is slightly more expensive than an 328 flywheel, but then I would have had to get another Kevlar clutch or look at M3 kits etc.
The nice thing about this set up is you get a hefty clutch but it’s got a normal pedal feel. Also if and when I wear the clutch out, I only have to buy a standard one. Not some expensive stage 2 or 3 replacement.
It is all pretty uncharted waters though so I thought I better get cracking as it is bound to go wrong.
Wipped the box out after work last Friday.
The picture doesn’t really do the comparison justice. The original plate is 215mm while the M5 one is 240mm. But it’s not that, I know 25mm isn’t that much. It’s more the plates. I have done some big Porsche and AMG clutch’s over the years, but the springs and plate thickness are huge!
The e34 M5 came out of the box with more power than I will probably ever run. So we should be all good.
Then the problems started. Without the gearbox out it was quite hard to prepare.
I had been told M50 flywheel bolts were all I would need. But when I dropped these through the flywheel it was instantly obvious they weren’t long enough. Holding the flywheel up to the crank the bolts didn’t even reach the thread, which is slightly recessed.
I’m not blaming anyone. But from there I shall take control. As I have it all on the bench it’s just maths. I measured the depth of the crank holes and found a bolt of maximum 35mm was what was needed. M50 were 25mm and M44 40mm.
I’m not going searching through the parts catalog trying to find something that fits. So I went straight to an engineering supplier. M12x1.5x35 ordered, car pushed out and we wait.
As I had the time I also ordered some clutch bolts from the same guys. A couple were rounding off. They were also a bit long for the new set up. I could have cut them down but me being me, I decided to upgrade them from 8.8 steel to 12.9 like the flywheel bolts. A bag of 10 for three quid. It makes you wonder why nuts and bolts are so expensive. Just because it says BMW or whoever on the bag.
Two days later we start again. Pushed the car back in. Bolted the flywheel on. It looked great, then I noticed the next problem.
The heads on the flywheel bolts sit proud and the clutch plate sits on them rather than the surface itself.
Now the bolt heads are exactly the same as the M52 and M44. Maybe BMW used something else on earlier cars?
I got back on the research and found yes, the m30 had no shoulder on the head of the bolts.
Car pushed back out and more waiting. Starting to get worried. Got a track day booked next week.
Two days later more bolts turn up.
Finally it’s in.
It’s fair to say bleeding the clutch after swapping the slave cylinder was a sod. But it’s in and working. Now I just need to try and get some miles on it before Monday when she returns to the track.
So Bedford came and went. On the whole a successful day. The clutch certainly had no issues.
The temperature was stupidly high on the day though. Lots of people were stuffering from issues. Mine manifested itself as a misfire usually starting by the second lap. Let it go cold and it’s fine. I had this before when the engine first went in. If driven for an hour or so. I had suspected an injector as I had moved the coils and plugs around. But it always came back on cylinder 2. So at the lunch break I swapped the injectors around. No change. With the temperature of the day I think it is probably overwhelming the spark plugs. Some new higher heat rates ones may we’ll be in order.
But for now she is back in the garage. I have pinched the battery to go in the race car.
Which brought us in quite nicely on the weight limit.
My last race in the boxster is next weekend at Brandshatch again. But this time on the Indy. So I think understandably my concentration is on that at the moment.
Once that is over I can once again think BMW.
I am excited though. This racing malarkey is like a track day on acid.
The temperature was stupidly high on the day though. Lots of people were stuffering from issues. Mine manifested itself as a misfire usually starting by the second lap. Let it go cold and it’s fine. I had this before when the engine first went in. If driven for an hour or so. I had suspected an injector as I had moved the coils and plugs around. But it always came back on cylinder 2. So at the lunch break I swapped the injectors around. No change. With the temperature of the day I think it is probably overwhelming the spark plugs. Some new higher heat rates ones may we’ll be in order.
But for now she is back in the garage. I have pinched the battery to go in the race car.
Which brought us in quite nicely on the weight limit.
My last race in the boxster is next weekend at Brandshatch again. But this time on the Indy. So I think understandably my concentration is on that at the moment.
Once that is over I can once again think BMW.
I am excited though. This racing malarkey is like a track day on acid.
Racing done for the year and the boxster is tucked away again.
My mind slowly returns to the BMW. The heat soak at Bedford last time out is first. So some hotter plugs go in.
I haven’t had much to do with NGK plugs before, Merc and Porsche mostly using Bosch or Beru. But looking about, these are recommended by a few places I trust for this issue.
A small road test seems in order.
Popped down the cafe for Sunday nights modified BMW meet.
Many nice things on display.
This twin turbo monster apparently putting out nearly 600bhp was pretty impressive.
My old girl ran faultlessly, thankfully.
The only issue I have now is the low idle. So bad it stalls when cold. When hot it’s about 500rpm. The flat spot is gone, I think this now is just down to the weight of the rotating assembly. Not enough momentum. I’m tempted to do away with the idle control system all together and just set it on the throttle butterfly for a warm engine at about 1000rpm. More like a track car.
My mind slowly returns to the BMW. The heat soak at Bedford last time out is first. So some hotter plugs go in.
I haven’t had much to do with NGK plugs before, Merc and Porsche mostly using Bosch or Beru. But looking about, these are recommended by a few places I trust for this issue.
A small road test seems in order.
Popped down the cafe for Sunday nights modified BMW meet.
Many nice things on display.
This twin turbo monster apparently putting out nearly 600bhp was pretty impressive.
My old girl ran faultlessly, thankfully.
The only issue I have now is the low idle. So bad it stalls when cold. When hot it’s about 500rpm. The flat spot is gone, I think this now is just down to the weight of the rotating assembly. Not enough momentum. I’m tempted to do away with the idle control system all together and just set it on the throttle butterfly for a warm engine at about 1000rpm. More like a track car.
So a couple of weeks back I decided to have a look at the idle system, see if it couldn’t be smoothed out.
I pulled out the idle air line and inspected.
Couldn’t actually see any leaks. But definitely not in the best condition. I replaced the idle hose. Suck it and see.
That being said the e36 is back in the garage. My wife is pregnant so I have had to start preparing for a little one. Don’t worry the track car is going nowhere, although it will have to go on the back burner for a bit, again.
I have been running around for the last couple of years in a Seat Ibiza. Great cheap economical car but not really big enough anymore.
So being me and doing what I do, a tatty 7 series was the sensible option.
It wasn’t exactly in good nick, needing brake pipes, discs, suspension arms, tyres, gearbox sump, glow plugs, output stage timer and a good service. But it was cheap and after three weekends on the ramp it’s now a pretty good car.
I might start a thread on it, if there is any interest. But for now I will say Happy Christmas.
Thank you to those who still follow. It’s amazing how many people at car shows and track days say they have read this. It’s going to an interesting year with the baby on the way and we are going racing again next year too.
I will endeavour to get the e36 back on track in the spring though.
I pulled out the idle air line and inspected.
Couldn’t actually see any leaks. But definitely not in the best condition. I replaced the idle hose. Suck it and see.
That being said the e36 is back in the garage. My wife is pregnant so I have had to start preparing for a little one. Don’t worry the track car is going nowhere, although it will have to go on the back burner for a bit, again.
I have been running around for the last couple of years in a Seat Ibiza. Great cheap economical car but not really big enough anymore.
So being me and doing what I do, a tatty 7 series was the sensible option.
It wasn’t exactly in good nick, needing brake pipes, discs, suspension arms, tyres, gearbox sump, glow plugs, output stage timer and a good service. But it was cheap and after three weekends on the ramp it’s now a pretty good car.
I might start a thread on it, if there is any interest. But for now I will say Happy Christmas.
Thank you to those who still follow. It’s amazing how many people at car shows and track days say they have read this. It’s going to an interesting year with the baby on the way and we are going racing again next year too.
I will endeavour to get the e36 back on track in the spring though.
So another Christmas came and went. Not many presents for the BMW this year. But I do have a few plans and have just bought a few parts.
In the meantime I bought the E65 730d as a daily car and have been working quite a bit on that, new thread here.
This meant the long suffering Ibiza got sold. I wasn’t going to sell the new radio with it. So hand me down or not, the 3 series got an upgrade.
I know it’s not exactly a track based mod. But I have been using a 20 quid radio in it for nearly 10 years. Nav is also very helpful if driving to the Ring or Spa.
So it is still a track weapon. But even driving to Donington or Oulton can be a pain in the ass. With the exhaust tips and radio, it is less of a horrific experience.
In the meantime I bought the E65 730d as a daily car and have been working quite a bit on that, new thread here.
This meant the long suffering Ibiza got sold. I wasn’t going to sell the new radio with it. So hand me down or not, the 3 series got an upgrade.
I know it’s not exactly a track based mod. But I have been using a 20 quid radio in it for nearly 10 years. Nav is also very helpful if driving to the Ring or Spa.
So it is still a track weapon. But even driving to Donington or Oulton can be a pain in the ass. With the exhaust tips and radio, it is less of a horrific experience.
Finally an update where I have done some real work to the car.
Last year the car got somewhat forgotten about as I was very involved with the boxster race car.
I am pleased to say, this year we are racing again. In fact with a larger calendar at more varied tracks. But this time I don’t want to let the BMW sit on the side lines.
Also with the baby on the way, I realise once here, I will never have any time for any of my hobbies ever again. So I want to get everything that needs doing sorted. So the car is completely usable if the opportunity arises.
As I think I had mentioned before, I can hear a rear bearing on its way out. There is no play in either side, but it’s definitely not right.
I had also noticed a slight leak of CV grease in and around the O/S/R hub.
Also the abs buzzes as you come to a stop, which feels like the N/S/R reluctor ring.
These together seemed like a good reason to strip the rear end and do some upgrades.
Some of you will also remember I have had some E46 328 rear callipers lying around for years.
I have had these since I did the front E46 330 brakes. After lots of research, I opted for the 328 brakes on the rear as the hub fittings are all the same as the E36 318is which means I don’t have to mess around with the handbrake.
I haven’t fitted them before as there was plenty of meat left on the old rear discs.
The bottom of the wear markers is starting to show through now though. So if I’m stripping the rear hubs for bearings, I might as well do the brake upgrade.
So as I have done three times before for this car, I sand blasted, painted and rebuilt some callipers.
Little did I know what a Saturday of pain and grief I was about to start on.
Last year the car got somewhat forgotten about as I was very involved with the boxster race car.
I am pleased to say, this year we are racing again. In fact with a larger calendar at more varied tracks. But this time I don’t want to let the BMW sit on the side lines.
Also with the baby on the way, I realise once here, I will never have any time for any of my hobbies ever again. So I want to get everything that needs doing sorted. So the car is completely usable if the opportunity arises.
As I think I had mentioned before, I can hear a rear bearing on its way out. There is no play in either side, but it’s definitely not right.
I had also noticed a slight leak of CV grease in and around the O/S/R hub.
Also the abs buzzes as you come to a stop, which feels like the N/S/R reluctor ring.
These together seemed like a good reason to strip the rear end and do some upgrades.
Some of you will also remember I have had some E46 328 rear callipers lying around for years.
I have had these since I did the front E46 330 brakes. After lots of research, I opted for the 328 brakes on the rear as the hub fittings are all the same as the E36 318is which means I don’t have to mess around with the handbrake.
I haven’t fitted them before as there was plenty of meat left on the old rear discs.
The bottom of the wear markers is starting to show through now though. So if I’m stripping the rear hubs for bearings, I might as well do the brake upgrade.
So as I have done three times before for this car, I sand blasted, painted and rebuilt some callipers.
Little did I know what a Saturday of pain and grief I was about to start on.
Friday night and I think. I’ll get the car in strip the drive shafts out of it. Strip them ready for the new boots and give them a coat of paint before bed.
First one off after two hours of fitting with seized exhaust clamps and hub nuts.
I checked the reluctor ring I bought and they were too big! It’s going to be one of those weekends.
First one off after two hours of fitting with seized exhaust clamps and hub nuts.
I checked the reluctor ring I bought and they were too big! It’s going to be one of those weekends.
Drive shaft looks alright, bit tatty but basically sound. That is untill you start to peal the CV boots back. Extremely crumbly shall we say.
Which is not helpful as the outer joint is not removable. A few lumps of rusty metal in there will do it no good at all. I decided they would have to be very well cleaned before any painting.
After a bit of head scratching and wandering around the workshop I came up with this. Old bottle with the top cut off, nicely tapers into the joint. Keeping it all clean while I set to the outside with a wire wheel.
By the time I had this one in paint I had to go home. Annoyingly only one drive shaft off the car.
Next morning I arrived bright and early. Got on with rebuilding the painted shaft.
Small tip here. Everywhere I looked they only offer the outer CV boot for sale. They are however exactly the same and I bought four.
All packed with new grease and new boots that will hopefully last a few more years.
As I hadn’t got the other side painted, or the right size reluctor ring I decided just to concentrate on getting the O/S finished then see what the time was.
I was going to do the bearing in situ, but on the day I couldn’t find the puller. So off came the whole arm.
This I would luv to say took minutes, but the hand brake mechanism didn’t want to come apart and the cable did not want to come out of the hub.
In the end I cut it so not to waste the whole day.
The only saving grace being that on the bench I can then do the bearing in the press, making light work of it.
The bearings having been popped in the fridge when I got to work this morning and the hub sat on the hot plate for a while made reassembly a doddle too.
After a good clean around the hub the bearing slid in easily. I would have liked to sand blast the whole arm and replace all the bushes, but funds and time aren’t allowing that at the moment.
Once the bearing was home, I remembered to install the new stone guards before the hub.
Brake discs are something I have been thinking a lot about recently. The whole point in the new rear discs is to cool better as they are vented.
Mtec do a good selection of drilled, grooved or both discs. Which caught my eye, but when I looked into it further a lot of track cars that tried them said they warped or cracked.
I suspect this is due to the discs not being all that thick, so with groves or a line of holes you are creating weaker areas on the disc surface.
We run drilled discs on the cars at work right up to the GT3. We don’t often suffer with warping but our discs are very thick. Even then, we don’t drill the GT3 RS discs, we use C hook.
So I will pinch the idea. I’m going to stick with Mtec and try a set of rear C hook 328 discs. Then if they warp or crack I won’t use them again.
Quite smart I thought. Then I went to put the new calliper on. It didn’t fit. When you are attempting a modification like this, based on loads of forum reading and web searches, then it goes wrong. Your mind literally crumbles. It starts racing trying to work out where you have gone wrong.
I retreated to my computer searching again the different variants of E36 and E46 brakes. Yes the discs fitted, yes the hubs matched up and the handbrake will work. (Eventually when I replace the cable).
Yes the callipers fit on the hubs. But the discs don’t fit under the calliper. I measured the discs, they were what I thought 294mm. A nice increase on the 318s 272mm, but nothing silly and more importantly 19mm thick and vented, instead of 10mm solid. In fact the callipers use the same pad, so the breaking contact area will be the same, but the bigger disc will allow for more heat radiation.
I have had these callipers for years now, I couldn’t check the original listing but I think I know what’s happened. I bought them from a chap who told me they were 328, but I suspect he actually got them from a 323 coupe which run 276mm discs.
All may not be lost though. It should mean the actual calliper is still good, I just need the bigger carriers.
By this point the day was coming to a close. I put the old discs back on and refitted the drive shaft. At least that was a success in the midst of all these failures.
Not much to show for a whole day and an evenings work. One wheel bearing and two CV boots.
Which is not helpful as the outer joint is not removable. A few lumps of rusty metal in there will do it no good at all. I decided they would have to be very well cleaned before any painting.
After a bit of head scratching and wandering around the workshop I came up with this. Old bottle with the top cut off, nicely tapers into the joint. Keeping it all clean while I set to the outside with a wire wheel.
By the time I had this one in paint I had to go home. Annoyingly only one drive shaft off the car.
Next morning I arrived bright and early. Got on with rebuilding the painted shaft.
Small tip here. Everywhere I looked they only offer the outer CV boot for sale. They are however exactly the same and I bought four.
All packed with new grease and new boots that will hopefully last a few more years.
As I hadn’t got the other side painted, or the right size reluctor ring I decided just to concentrate on getting the O/S finished then see what the time was.
I was going to do the bearing in situ, but on the day I couldn’t find the puller. So off came the whole arm.
This I would luv to say took minutes, but the hand brake mechanism didn’t want to come apart and the cable did not want to come out of the hub.
In the end I cut it so not to waste the whole day.
The only saving grace being that on the bench I can then do the bearing in the press, making light work of it.
The bearings having been popped in the fridge when I got to work this morning and the hub sat on the hot plate for a while made reassembly a doddle too.
After a good clean around the hub the bearing slid in easily. I would have liked to sand blast the whole arm and replace all the bushes, but funds and time aren’t allowing that at the moment.
Once the bearing was home, I remembered to install the new stone guards before the hub.
Brake discs are something I have been thinking a lot about recently. The whole point in the new rear discs is to cool better as they are vented.
Mtec do a good selection of drilled, grooved or both discs. Which caught my eye, but when I looked into it further a lot of track cars that tried them said they warped or cracked.
I suspect this is due to the discs not being all that thick, so with groves or a line of holes you are creating weaker areas on the disc surface.
We run drilled discs on the cars at work right up to the GT3. We don’t often suffer with warping but our discs are very thick. Even then, we don’t drill the GT3 RS discs, we use C hook.
So I will pinch the idea. I’m going to stick with Mtec and try a set of rear C hook 328 discs. Then if they warp or crack I won’t use them again.
Quite smart I thought. Then I went to put the new calliper on. It didn’t fit. When you are attempting a modification like this, based on loads of forum reading and web searches, then it goes wrong. Your mind literally crumbles. It starts racing trying to work out where you have gone wrong.
I retreated to my computer searching again the different variants of E36 and E46 brakes. Yes the discs fitted, yes the hubs matched up and the handbrake will work. (Eventually when I replace the cable).
Yes the callipers fit on the hubs. But the discs don’t fit under the calliper. I measured the discs, they were what I thought 294mm. A nice increase on the 318s 272mm, but nothing silly and more importantly 19mm thick and vented, instead of 10mm solid. In fact the callipers use the same pad, so the breaking contact area will be the same, but the bigger disc will allow for more heat radiation.
I have had these callipers for years now, I couldn’t check the original listing but I think I know what’s happened. I bought them from a chap who told me they were 328, but I suspect he actually got them from a 323 coupe which run 276mm discs.
All may not be lost though. It should mean the actual calliper is still good, I just need the bigger carriers.
By this point the day was coming to a close. I put the old discs back on and refitted the drive shaft. At least that was a success in the midst of all these failures.
Not much to show for a whole day and an evenings work. One wheel bearing and two CV boots.
Well I couldn’t see any way of the outer coming off. The inner was obvious and used circlip pliers for that.
Sitting here reading about callipers again. Stuff not adding up. OEM online is saying 323 and 328 E46 run the same callipers. Although others say they are different. I can’t find any callipers or carriers, I’m 100% will fit. It’s annoying.
Sitting here reading about callipers again. Stuff not adding up. OEM online is saying 323 and 328 E46 run the same callipers. Although others say they are different. I can’t find any callipers or carriers, I’m 100% will fit. It’s annoying.
Light at the end of the tunnel.
After several days of trying to find some E46 328 callipers or just carriers I was having no success. A bit more research showed that the E46 325 had the same callipers and carriers, while the 323 had the same callipers although smaller carriers, which is what I think I already have.
So I widend my search to 325.
Found a pair of rears.
Very tatty, but I only need the carriers and due to the condition they were cheap.
The first arrived today and looks like it will be a good fit.
After several days of trying to find some E46 328 callipers or just carriers I was having no success. A bit more research showed that the E46 325 had the same callipers and carriers, while the 323 had the same callipers although smaller carriers, which is what I think I already have.
So I widend my search to 325.
Found a pair of rears.
Very tatty, but I only need the carriers and due to the condition they were cheap.
The first arrived today and looks like it will be a good fit.
Another Saturday another wheel bearing. Things went a bit smoother today.
I won’t bore you with the in depth photos. It was basically the same as last week.
I didn’t take the drive shaft out on this side. The CV boots aren’t leaking so I will leave them for another day.
More importantly this week, one of my 325 callipers has turned up. I took the opportunity to make sure the carriers fitted.
One day the other calliper will turn up then I can get the brakes finished.
In the meantime I fitted the new handbrake cables and put the mechanism back together. Good job that the new cables didn’t fit in two different ways. I really needed to spend my afternoon modifying them. It’s not like I have a race car to prep in the next four weeks.
Never mind, on and working in the end.
One last little thing for today. For quite a while I have been looking for a new rear skirt. I’m not particularly worried about the looks of the car as you know. But as I cut a big chunk out of it back when I had a twin pipe exhaust, it has looked a bit silly ever since I went back to one exit.
It was very cheap and I know looks a bit naf. Anyway we are nearly there. Possible change of a track day in the next couple of weeks. Possible chance of having a magazine article on the old girl soon too.
I won’t bore you with the in depth photos. It was basically the same as last week.
I didn’t take the drive shaft out on this side. The CV boots aren’t leaking so I will leave them for another day.
More importantly this week, one of my 325 callipers has turned up. I took the opportunity to make sure the carriers fitted.
One day the other calliper will turn up then I can get the brakes finished.
In the meantime I fitted the new handbrake cables and put the mechanism back together. Good job that the new cables didn’t fit in two different ways. I really needed to spend my afternoon modifying them. It’s not like I have a race car to prep in the next four weeks.
Never mind, on and working in the end.
One last little thing for today. For quite a while I have been looking for a new rear skirt. I’m not particularly worried about the looks of the car as you know. But as I cut a big chunk out of it back when I had a twin pipe exhaust, it has looked a bit silly ever since I went back to one exit.
It was very cheap and I know looks a bit naf. Anyway we are nearly there. Possible change of a track day in the next couple of weeks. Possible chance of having a magazine article on the old girl soon too.
Now having bought five second had callipers. I finally have a matching pair of carriers to fit 294mm rear discs.
What a palaver, but to be fair on the sellers I can see why people would think most E46 over 2litres and not M3 or 330 would have the same rear discs.
But it is annoying when you say to them, these are definitely off a 328 or a 325 aren’t they. They say yes, so you buy them. Only to find they are from a 323 and they just don’t fit.
Anyway I got them in paint Saturday morning, so hopefully Monday night fitted and bled. Tuesday night Geo after having all the rear end apart. Wednesday night packing, ready for Snetterton on Thursday.
Snetterton hold a bit of a special place for me with this car. It was where she had her first proper track day (not including the Nurburgring because that way a track adventure/holiday really), certainly her first British soil track day.
It was the second last track she went to as a 1.9 and will be the second track she goes to as a 3.0.
What a palaver, but to be fair on the sellers I can see why people would think most E46 over 2litres and not M3 or 330 would have the same rear discs.
But it is annoying when you say to them, these are definitely off a 328 or a 325 aren’t they. They say yes, so you buy them. Only to find they are from a 323 and they just don’t fit.
Anyway I got them in paint Saturday morning, so hopefully Monday night fitted and bled. Tuesday night Geo after having all the rear end apart. Wednesday night packing, ready for Snetterton on Thursday.
Snetterton hold a bit of a special place for me with this car. It was where she had her first proper track day (not including the Nurburgring because that way a track adventure/holiday really), certainly her first British soil track day.
It was the second last track she went to as a 1.9 and will be the second track she goes to as a 3.0.
A good day on Thursday. Again we were lucky with the weather.
No clutch problems now and the grip is still good.
Unfortunately we still suffered with a missfire. It only happens when the car is really hot.
After a few laps hammering round we would have to put as the miss started. It was tracked down to cylinder 2 again.
I hoped we had solved this with the higher heat rated plugs.
I am looking at the coils I think. The miss goes away after just a couple of minutes sitting. So I can’t see it being mechanical.
I may have to think about more cooling too. It can only help.
The dash display always stays in the middle of the gauge. But my block temp sensor is showing in harsh track situations that the temp is up to about 110. A little high I think.
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