E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
helix402 said:
Some of the suspension bolts are stretch bolts so it’s wise to change them.
I suppose I didn't really consider it as I was changing them all anyway. The only thing I can see on TIS is to make sure you change the self locking nuts. The adjustment end shouldn't be a stretch bolt - otherwise you'll struggle to get it aligned!If you get the arms from BMW via the "repair kit", they come with the bolts - but as has been discussed - that carries a price premium (that is probs more than buying the nuts/bolts separately!).
Swervin_Mervin said:
Zippy. What do you use to read codes - INPA?
Yeah INPA, whatever version happens to be floating about the internet. I have a half decent cable that talks to the car fine, but I’ve not really done anything in depth other than read codes and clear them. I do eventually plan to code a few things (doors unlock when I turn car off, seatbelt binger, etc.), but other things have taken precedent! The version I have when speaking to the N52 requires me to have google translate on the go as it’s in German!When I was researching a couple of issues I had, things that can come up without codes include, DISA, VANOS and the Eccentric Shaft Sensor (you can see the cable plugged in at the front of the engine in the rocker cover – if you take your engine cover off obvs). I had a dodgy vanos – but it did show a CEL actually. I pulled them out and cleaned them + swapped them over to see if the fault would follow, and it did, which confirmed the solenoids. When I took them out, I applied I think 5v to the terminals, and one was slower than the other. Apparently VANOS can be error free though, so worth pulling them out and cleaning – you don’t even need to remove any engine gubbins really apart from the air intake scoop thing. Also worth checking the check-valve/filter things for the vanos – one of mine had a load of crap on it, and cleaned that – some people have reported that being the issue in the end. You can get to the via the wheel well. I do have some photos somewhere, but I’m at work at the moment.
The eccentric shaft sensor can get full of oil through the connector, so pull the lead off that and have a look. Apparently they all go bad, and it’s not a cheap sensor (£300 or so from BMW, I got mine £150 from someone else for the proper VDO part), but it’s quite a bit of work as you have to take the rocker cover off – and that’s surprisingly in depth for a relatively simple task! I changed mine whilst I was changing the rocker cover gasket as that needed changing – and I wasn’t gonna do all that work again if the sensor was bad, or gonna go bad – and it was whilst I had an undiagnosed DISA issue at the time – so it might have fixed my lumpy idle at the time.
Well I feel marginally privileged to have a Manual 330i E91 M Sport. However, I dunno if it's just mine, or the mileage, but it's not the greatest box on the planet. Ratios are fine, and it suits the engine fine, but the change isn't the most precise. I removed the CDV- which improved things, I then changed all the fluids (box and diff) - which helped, then flushed/bled the clutch system again, and removed the return spring on the pedal box - which also helped - but it's still not as slick as say my RX-8 box or even my little old mazda 323F!
I do think the DMF is a bit tired and ain't helping - so I'm reserving judgement until I change that and the clutch - and I do prefer it to a friends auto 335i I tried - so not all bad, but so far the box isn't the last word in refinement IMHO.
I do think the DMF is a bit tired and ain't helping - so I'm reserving judgement until I change that and the clutch - and I do prefer it to a friends auto 335i I tried - so not all bad, but so far the box isn't the last word in refinement IMHO.
Swervin_Mervin said:
Last question for now Zippy, but what kit do you need for INPA? Been looking and it seems fairly confusing in terms of laptop requirements, serial ports etc.
Ah yes, sorry, almost ignored you! From what I read, the cable is the crucial bit - get a decent one - which can be a slight lottery from the copy cables etc. I think I got mine from cable-shack, and that got some good rep - but i haven't tried coding with it yet. It works with INPA fine though.You do have to research it all a lot though - I never did find one single useful resource, it's scattered all over the internet.
I'm in the process of building a "car tinkering laptop" which will have some mazda and bmw stuff, so hope to play with ISTA etc. in future .
In the meantime, I'm definitely no INPA expert - all I know is how to bumble my way round to read codes, clear them and read some engine information!
Swervin_Mervin said:
Might get Carly for the F20 - I really want to code it so the stereo goes off when you pop the door, as it's bloody irritating it stays on! That and drop the button hold time for the fold in mirrors.
Yeah - Carly is the easy way to do it! You'll be able to scan for codes etc on your E91 with it too.I don't know 100%, but I understand Carly to do shadow codes. Don't be surprised if you find millions the first time you scan - little things can trigger them (e.g. if you unplugged a sensor and plugged it back in once etc.).
I also think E series and F series BMW's had a different communication protocol...or something...maybe! That would explain that. To google my friend
I also think E series and F series BMW's had a different communication protocol...or something...maybe! That would explain that. To google my friend
bodhi said:
stevesingo said:
What was wrong with the shift in the first place and can you describe how it is now better?
Must admit I'm interested in this as well. I know I have an E82, which I presume to have the same gearbox, but overall I only have a couple of small issues with the changes - 1st to 2nd is as horrible to do quickly as it has been in any other BMW I've driven, and the clutch can get quite juddery if you try to change through the gears quickly. It also likes a judder when it's cold and damp, however I was led to believe they all do that. Sir. Is the CDV likely to be causing any of that?
I have done the following, each of what has made a small improvement, but overall I should really get a new DMF + clutch.. I also have a clubsport weighted knob on it - the throw on this is nice, and when everything is up to temperature and you get everything spot on - it's alright. But I'm only human, so I mess up on occasion, and the car is obviously always cold to begin with!
- Gearbox and diff fluids changed.
- CDV removal
- Fully bled clutch hydraulics (was meant to be getting a braided line - but hel messed me about).
- Removed clutch return spring on the pedal box - so I only feel the clutch hydraulics.
- Prop flex discs changed (had the prop out anyway when I dropped the fuel tank to fix the leaky fuel breather pipe thing that plagued early e90s).
- Gearbox mounts changed.
So I should probs change the engine mounts (pretty sure they're original and I'm on 195k miles now), and the DMF + clutch is really what needs changing. It's better when it's warm, and I've learnt to change gears accordingly, but every so often I'll change gear like a learn/jolt it a bit, where in any other car it would be barely noticeable that I've fluffed up. I pop back into my RX-8 and the gearbox is lovely by comparison, just whips through gears lovely - admittedly the mileage is about 1/5th of the 330i....
So last weekend fitted new tyres and new windscreen (I'm friendly with a local windscreen guy). I'd even treated the new screen with my favourite gtechniq G1 screen coating before the new screen was on the car!
MOT this morning. 195k miles - passed - no advisories. Off to North Yorkshire (from Colchester) tomorrow AM.
MOT this morning. 195k miles - passed - no advisories. Off to North Yorkshire (from Colchester) tomorrow AM.
I left Kettlewell yesterday at about 1615 yesterday, was back home in Colchester before 2030. Seems the Snow we were expecting in North Yorkshire didn't materialise and was dumped in Essex. Summer tyres (new) kindof coped on the local roads covered in snow - DTC engaged and a bit of gentle throttle feathering (unless messing about) and all was fine! 
Then the car got a bit stuck on the drive as all the snow I'd spun up into the wheel wells fell of and turned into giant ice wheel chocks!
The off road stuff I was doing on the mountain bike on the other hand was absolute sheet ice - got quite good at riding on that too
Then the car got a bit stuck on the drive as all the snow I'd spun up into the wheel wells fell of and turned into giant ice wheel chocks!
The off road stuff I was doing on the mountain bike on the other hand was absolute sheet ice - got quite good at riding on that too
ferrisbueller said:
ATM said:
Lads
My mate has the big blue brakes on his m135i and needs new discs and pads. Any recommendations on where to buy new discs for these?
Ta
Are OEM Brembo? If so, whoever is cheapest for the right part number disc. Pads depends on whether he wants an upgrade or if the standards are good enough.My mate has the big blue brakes on his m135i and needs new discs and pads. Any recommendations on where to buy new discs for these?
Ta
[quote=ExVantagemech..
Only annoying thing it does is has a "fluff" when sitting idling. Not all the time but 1 cylinder misses every now and then. Guessing its worth pricing up a set of coils as Ive done the plugs aready.
[/quote]
I had a coil go - i confirmed this by unplugging a coil and seeing if the engine sound changed. I also had the butterfly flap from my DISA sitting in the inlet port - this also caused a "fluff" when idling - but it still went pretty rapid (I quickly stopped driving it once I worked out why it had the "fluff" on idle!). Worth checking that too - load of discussion a few pages back i think.
[quote=ferrisbueller]
The OBD will flag a misfire, yes.
If it's shot, you'll get an engine warning light and a derate.
[/quote]
Mine didn't go CEL when I had a coil go. Guess it must depend on failure mode and what the computer checks to trigger the CEL.
Only annoying thing it does is has a "fluff" when sitting idling. Not all the time but 1 cylinder misses every now and then. Guessing its worth pricing up a set of coils as Ive done the plugs aready.
[/quote]
I had a coil go - i confirmed this by unplugging a coil and seeing if the engine sound changed. I also had the butterfly flap from my DISA sitting in the inlet port - this also caused a "fluff" when idling - but it still went pretty rapid (I quickly stopped driving it once I worked out why it had the "fluff" on idle!). Worth checking that too - load of discussion a few pages back i think.
[quote=ferrisbueller]
The OBD will flag a misfire, yes.
If it's shot, you'll get an engine warning light and a derate.
[/quote]
Mine didn't go CEL when I had a coil go. Guess it must depend on failure mode and what the computer checks to trigger the CEL.
Changed my stat when I changed my waterpump. It's not too bad a job, and as it's an electric waterpump, it bleeds itself without starting the engine. One of the connectors was a bit of a pig and involved some prybars to get off and some awakward pushing - otherwise all ok, suspect a specialist would be a bit better than me on my driveway attempting the job for the first time. Stat is about £60 for an OEM part from memory.
A couple of things to note:
1. A buggered stat sometimes shows up as a shadow code on INPA/Carly etc.
2. It was definitely noticeable how much more quickly the engine warms up when the stat isn't stuck open! I generally do longer journeys so it wasn't too bad, but I'd deffo get it changed asap if you do a lot of short journeys! I don't boot the car until my oil level reading starts working (as it doesn't read until engine is up to temperature...I do intend to get 335i clocks in mine so I can see oil temp, but until then...). When my stat was stuck, my 4-5 mile trip to the nearest dual carriageway, my car wasn't wam enough to boot it full pelt down the slip road, whereas with the working stat, it is.
3. These engines do warm up pretty quickly when everything is fine.
Ok, that's three things.
A couple of things to note:
1. A buggered stat sometimes shows up as a shadow code on INPA/Carly etc.
2. It was definitely noticeable how much more quickly the engine warms up when the stat isn't stuck open! I generally do longer journeys so it wasn't too bad, but I'd deffo get it changed asap if you do a lot of short journeys! I don't boot the car until my oil level reading starts working (as it doesn't read until engine is up to temperature...I do intend to get 335i clocks in mine so I can see oil temp, but until then...). When my stat was stuck, my 4-5 mile trip to the nearest dual carriageway, my car wasn't wam enough to boot it full pelt down the slip road, whereas with the working stat, it is.
3. These engines do warm up pretty quickly when everything is fine.
Ok, that's three things.
Worth noting that with the electric water pump, it does some clever stuff and runs the engine cooler for efficiency and hotter for performance (or whatever way round it is) depending on what you're asking of the engine... hence I think why they didn't put a water temp on the car as many owners would be asking why it was moving all the time.
IcedKiwi said:
Hey Zippy,
Also to do with the electric thermostat that they have which changes the temperature set point. A bit like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2AfMX1PcwU
It's the other way around though:
Hotter at low load/speed for efficiency - Think hotter oil temperatures, lower friction, hotter metal temperatures, less combustion heat losses to the cylinder walls.
At high load/speed, it drops the temperature for engine protection so it doesn't over heat and also helps mitigate against things like knock
Just seen this! Cheers - yeah that makes sense, as you can see I hadn't thought it through and all I had in my mind was it actively managed temperature! I am an actual engineer, honest. Also to do with the electric thermostat that they have which changes the temperature set point. A bit like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2AfMX1PcwU
It's the other way around though:
Hotter at low load/speed for efficiency - Think hotter oil temperatures, lower friction, hotter metal temperatures, less combustion heat losses to the cylinder walls.
At high load/speed, it drops the temperature for engine protection so it doesn't over heat and also helps mitigate against things like knock
Swervin_Mervin said:
zippyonline said:
Nope!
Although I bought new nuts and bolts for mine - the ones I took off were in far better condition that I was expecting.
I had a pile that looked like this:
E91 Suspension Parts by Chris Reeves, on Flickr
Hey ZippyAlthough I bought new nuts and bolts for mine - the ones I took off were in far better condition that I was expecting.
I had a pile that looked like this:
E91 Suspension Parts by Chris Reeves, on Flickr
Did you ever do the rear on yours?
I'm tying my head in knots with all the different parts that make up the rear. It's like a Meccano set back there!
Anything that I didn't replace then has since been replaced (except shocks absorber top mounts, which I've got and waiting for a sunny day as they started very lightly clunking the other week!) It wasn't a particularly cheap exercise, but they weren't cheapo parts I used and I obviously had a massive improvement! The BMW "kits" are actually quite good value when they include all the fixings etc.
If you want any particular advice, or want to see my particular shopping list, PM me with your email or something.
Are those wheels 16s? Must be pretty on the limit of caliper clearance? Looks smart on the whole from that photo snippet - is it just the photo that makes the bonnet shut line look a bit out?
I'm still impressed by how well mine eats the miles and I don't get bored of the straight 6 purr. It still desperately needs an LSD mind... I just did an oil+ filter change @ 198.5k miles, @ 200k miles I was gonna get it a treat of a new fuel filter, and I might even upload some photos of some of the bigger things I've had to do like drop the fuel tank to change the leaky fuel breather pipe!
I'm still impressed by how well mine eats the miles and I don't get bored of the straight 6 purr. It still desperately needs an LSD mind... I just did an oil+ filter change @ 198.5k miles, @ 200k miles I was gonna get it a treat of a new fuel filter, and I might even upload some photos of some of the bigger things I've had to do like drop the fuel tank to change the leaky fuel breather pipe!
Driving back home in the dark yesterday I notice my Xenon headlights were being pretty poor, not illuminating very far in front of me. Main beam was acceptable...
From outside, all lamps seemed ok, haven't scanned for codes yet.
I stopped and restarted the car - the lights didn't do the "sweep" that they normally do with the lights, and I guessed they were just pointing right down.
Having a poke around, the headlight levelling sensor arm (front N/S) had popped off the suspension arm. I've cleaned up one of the seized ball joints on that this morning, and cable tied the other arm back onto the suspension - it seems to all be holding fine. Now it's daytime, so I was struggling to test the lights - but I don't think it's doing the headlight "sweep" still. How can I tell if the actual sensor fubarred? Should there be some resistance in the actual sensor - coz mine flops around?
I'll do some more reading in a bit - and will probs order a new arm anyway as mine is pretty corroded and gummed up.
From outside, all lamps seemed ok, haven't scanned for codes yet.
I stopped and restarted the car - the lights didn't do the "sweep" that they normally do with the lights, and I guessed they were just pointing right down.
Having a poke around, the headlight levelling sensor arm (front N/S) had popped off the suspension arm. I've cleaned up one of the seized ball joints on that this morning, and cable tied the other arm back onto the suspension - it seems to all be holding fine. Now it's daytime, so I was struggling to test the lights - but I don't think it's doing the headlight "sweep" still. How can I tell if the actual sensor fubarred? Should there be some resistance in the actual sensor - coz mine flops around?
I'll do some more reading in a bit - and will probs order a new arm anyway as mine is pretty corroded and gummed up.
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