The E46 325ti Appreciation Thread
Discussion
Noticed that you'd dropped the subframe assembly -does your car have DSC? You'll have to calibrate the steering angle sensor if you have. That's the issue that I'm not looking forward to as well as the AC. Keep the updates coming, think there's a few of us very interested in this "tweak"
Rally Ax said:
Noticed that you'd dropped the subframe assembly -does your car have DSC? You'll have to calibrate the steering angle sensor if you have. That's the issue that I'm not looking forward to as well as the AC. Keep the updates coming, think there's a few of us very interested in this "tweak"
If you have the BMW software it is incredibly easy to do this. If you don't then it is worth buying a cable + software package on eBay which is configured to all work together.Gents what's the view on the m-sport with an auto box?
Due to change in circumstances my F10 530d has to go and one of these has popped on to my radar.
What are the mechanical warning signs a mechanically useless git like me needs to look for?
Any potential big bills I need be aware of?
Cheers,
Tim
Due to change in circumstances my F10 530d has to go and one of these has popped on to my radar.
What are the mechanical warning signs a mechanically useless git like me needs to look for?
Any potential big bills I need be aware of?
Cheers,
Tim
I would stay away from the auto, the manual is much better suited to the car. The list of E46 problems I posted on another thread is:
Cooling system: radiators bow; plastic pipes, thermostat housings, and expansion tanks crack.
Front suspension, check for new shocks and top mounts if the car has done much over 100k. Check for new front control arm bushes after about 60k. New wishbones and rod ends are nice to see over 100k as well.
Rear suspension, check for new shocks and springs. These can last as little as 30-40k.
Engine, look for oil leaks. Commonly found on the front NS (oil filter housing gasket), and on the exhaust (cam cover gasket)
Check if the VANOS has had new seals. VANOS failure does not cause catastrophic borkage like the M3, but helps with low end torque and is a sign of good maintenance.
Check for a new CCV valve. If this has not yet been done then it will probably need to be done.
For cars with over 100k check if the gearbox and diff oil have been changed. BMW say this is a lifetime fill, but that is bulls
t (for an auto box I don't know if this applies)
Check for dashboard warning lights. Airbag is probably the passenger occupancy sensor, there is a cheap workaround for this. Traction control system is a common failure and diagnosing problems can be a pain (my E46 needed a new DCS module from a breaker, though the fault code said yaw sensor). When you drive it, you want no noise from the suspension, no play in the steering, and no clouds of smoke when pulling away. Ask the owner how much oil it drinks and see if he looks shifty or feigns ignorance. Check the dipstick and make sure it has enough in.
Cooling system: radiators bow; plastic pipes, thermostat housings, and expansion tanks crack.
Front suspension, check for new shocks and top mounts if the car has done much over 100k. Check for new front control arm bushes after about 60k. New wishbones and rod ends are nice to see over 100k as well.
Rear suspension, check for new shocks and springs. These can last as little as 30-40k.
Engine, look for oil leaks. Commonly found on the front NS (oil filter housing gasket), and on the exhaust (cam cover gasket)
Check if the VANOS has had new seals. VANOS failure does not cause catastrophic borkage like the M3, but helps with low end torque and is a sign of good maintenance.
Check for a new CCV valve. If this has not yet been done then it will probably need to be done.
For cars with over 100k check if the gearbox and diff oil have been changed. BMW say this is a lifetime fill, but that is bulls
t (for an auto box I don't know if this applies)Check for dashboard warning lights. Airbag is probably the passenger occupancy sensor, there is a cheap workaround for this. Traction control system is a common failure and diagnosing problems can be a pain (my E46 needed a new DCS module from a breaker, though the fault code said yaw sensor). When you drive it, you want no noise from the suspension, no play in the steering, and no clouds of smoke when pulling away. Ask the owner how much oil it drinks and see if he looks shifty or feigns ignorance. Check the dipstick and make sure it has enough in.
ethomas said:
I would stay away from the auto, the manual is much better suited to the car. The list of E46 problems I posted on another thread is:
Cooling system: radiators bow; plastic pipes, thermostat housings, and expansion tanks crack.
Front suspension, check for new shocks and top mounts if the car has done much over 100k. Check for new front control arm bushes after about 60k. New wishbones and rod ends are nice to see over 100k as well.
Rear suspension, check for new shocks and springs. These can last as little as 30-40k.
Engine, look for oil leaks. Commonly found on the front NS (oil filter housing gasket), and on the exhaust (cam cover gasket)
Check if the VANOS has had new seals. VANOS failure does not cause catastrophic borkage like the M3, but helps with low end torque and is a sign of good maintenance.
Check for a new CCV valve. If this has not yet been done then it will probably need to be done.
For cars with over 100k check if the gearbox and diff oil have been changed. BMW say this is a lifetime fill, but that is bullst (for an auto box I don't know if this applies)
Check for dashboard warning lights. Airbag is probably the passenger occupancy sensor, there is a cheap workaround for this. Traction control system is a common failure and diagnosing problems can be a pain (my E46 needed a new DCS module from a breaker, though the fault code said yaw sensor). When you drive it, you want no noise from the suspension, no play in the steering, and no clouds of smoke when pulling away. Ask the owner how much oil it drinks and see if he looks shifty or feigns ignorance. Check the dipstick and make sure it has enough in.
From a driving point of view on the auto, read the comments from Mr Harris et al at the Autocar Driving Day if you can see the scan a fair few posts aboveCooling system: radiators bow; plastic pipes, thermostat housings, and expansion tanks crack.
Front suspension, check for new shocks and top mounts if the car has done much over 100k. Check for new front control arm bushes after about 60k. New wishbones and rod ends are nice to see over 100k as well.
Rear suspension, check for new shocks and springs. These can last as little as 30-40k.
Engine, look for oil leaks. Commonly found on the front NS (oil filter housing gasket), and on the exhaust (cam cover gasket)
Check if the VANOS has had new seals. VANOS failure does not cause catastrophic borkage like the M3, but helps with low end torque and is a sign of good maintenance.
Check for a new CCV valve. If this has not yet been done then it will probably need to be done.
For cars with over 100k check if the gearbox and diff oil have been changed. BMW say this is a lifetime fill, but that is bulls
t (for an auto box I don't know if this applies)Check for dashboard warning lights. Airbag is probably the passenger occupancy sensor, there is a cheap workaround for this. Traction control system is a common failure and diagnosing problems can be a pain (my E46 needed a new DCS module from a breaker, though the fault code said yaw sensor). When you drive it, you want no noise from the suspension, no play in the steering, and no clouds of smoke when pulling away. Ask the owner how much oil it drinks and see if he looks shifty or feigns ignorance. Check the dipstick and make sure it has enough in.
Twin2 said:
Well, that's me 2 months into having mine, still wonderful.
Been doing a mix of long drives and daily use and it really is fantastic. Only made the mistake of driving Twin1's Eunos yesterday which makes this feel like a big old barge!
I'm now thinking about what I can do to the car to make it perform as well as possible as we're driving to the German Grand Prix this summer, probably including a few laps of the nurburgring too. Does anyone have any suggestions?
A few pictures:
Been doing a mix of long drives and daily use and it really is fantastic. Only made the mistake of driving Twin1's Eunos yesterday which makes this feel like a big old barge!
I'm now thinking about what I can do to the car to make it perform as well as possible as we're driving to the German Grand Prix this summer, probably including a few laps of the nurburgring too. Does anyone have any suggestions?
A few pictures:
Still enjoying my M3-lite as well
Had a 328 owner ask what I'd done to my exhaust to sound so good - he looked surprised when I told him it was standard - just the M Performance airbox
s m said:
Still enjoying my M3-lite as well
Had a 328 owner ask what I'd done to my exhaust to sound so good - he looked surprised when I told him it was standard - just the M Performance airbox
Yeah I'm finding this every time I have someone new in the car, they can't quite believe how good it sounds/feels. Even Twin 1 is getting a bit jealous. He kept our Eunos VR ltd which has a mazda speed exhaust and airbox which sound great, it's loud, but it's not silky smooth screaming.
I gave the car a bit of TLC on Sunday starting with an oil top-up. The decided to gut the interior and give it a thorough hoovering.
Mine also had a lot of perished plastic bits like the wing mirrors, door handles etc which had lost their blackness so did a bit of restoring work there.
Before:
After:
Next thing will be more serious cleaning inside, restoring the leather and carpets. I also very much need cup holders, I've spilled coffee on my legs too many times now!
And in the summer I'll hopefully get a few days free to take the wheels off and clean the arches, probably put on new brake pads/discs and think about some 17" wheels when it's time to change tyres.
Twin2 said:
M3-lite, absolutely agree, with the caveat of not having driven an M3 yet!
Yeah I'm finding this every time I have someone new in the car, they can't quite believe how good it sounds/feels. Even Twin 1 is getting a bit jealous. He kept our Eunos VR ltd which has a mazda speed exhaust and airbox which sound great, it's loud, but it's not silky smooth screaming.
I gave the car a bit of TLC on Sunday starting with an oil top-up. The decided to gut the interior and give it a thorough hoovering.
Mine also had a lot of perished plastic bits like the wing mirrors, door handles etc which had lost their blackness so did a bit of restoring work there.
Before:
After:
Next thing will be more serious cleaning inside, restoring the leather and carpets. I also very much need cup holders, I've spilled coffee on my legs too many times now!
And in the summer I'll hopefully get a few days free to take the wheels off and clean the arches, probably put on new brake pads/discs and think about some 17" wheels when it's time to change tyres.
What did you use on your plastic bits? I found the Dodo Juice Supernatural stuff was good for getting the grime off the leatherYeah I'm finding this every time I have someone new in the car, they can't quite believe how good it sounds/feels. Even Twin 1 is getting a bit jealous. He kept our Eunos VR ltd which has a mazda speed exhaust and airbox which sound great, it's loud, but it's not silky smooth screaming.
I gave the car a bit of TLC on Sunday starting with an oil top-up. The decided to gut the interior and give it a thorough hoovering.
Mine also had a lot of perished plastic bits like the wing mirrors, door handles etc which had lost their blackness so did a bit of restoring work there.
Before:
After:
Next thing will be more serious cleaning inside, restoring the leather and carpets. I also very much need cup holders, I've spilled coffee on my legs too many times now!
And in the summer I'll hopefully get a few days free to take the wheels off and clean the arches, probably put on new brake pads/discs and think about some 17" wheels when it's time to change tyres.
s m said:
What did you use on your plastic bits? I found the Dodo Juice Supernatural stuff was good for getting the grime off the leather
It's Autoglym trim cleaner or something, worked really well on the black bits and on the bumb strips on the doors.Sweet, I'll check that out for getting the leather back to its best, it's a shame to let the cream look sorry fr itself
I have had a busy night, fitted new (all front) hubs/bearings, brake shields, discs, pads, calipers, and hoses.
A little while back I found a set of 135i calipers going on eBay for a reasonable price. These are the same brembo calipers as the BMW performance brakes from the E90, which can be adapted to fit any E46. I got some brackets from http://www.epytec.de/, some CSL discs (345x28mm) from http://autoteilemann.de, and a set of custom hoses from a chap on M3Cutters who sells brackets for same caliper to fit the M3. All in, it worked out much cheaper than even the cheapest K sport BBK, and it has six pot brembos!
The brackets are a perfect fit, and seem really solid. They are machined from bit chunks of alloy and are definitely not going anywhere. The brakes feel excellent - I think I will need to fit an M3 master cylinder to reduce travel a smidgen, but modulation and feel is really good, and with cheap mintex pads they stop the car silently and very effectively. New bearings are from FAG and are a lot quieter, I no longer have weird noises from the bearings when I turn left. Since everything was off the wheel, I replaced the dust shields with larger M3 ones because why not
.
The new brakes fill the wheels nicely, decent clearance under my 17" Pro Race wheels too (I think some OEM 17" wheels may struggle). Unfortunately the photo upload is not working at the moment, so I will edit this post later and add it.
When the M3 rear end goes on, I will fit Brembos at the rear too (porsche boxter), with M3 discs.
A little while back I found a set of 135i calipers going on eBay for a reasonable price. These are the same brembo calipers as the BMW performance brakes from the E90, which can be adapted to fit any E46. I got some brackets from http://www.epytec.de/, some CSL discs (345x28mm) from http://autoteilemann.de, and a set of custom hoses from a chap on M3Cutters who sells brackets for same caliper to fit the M3. All in, it worked out much cheaper than even the cheapest K sport BBK, and it has six pot brembos!
The brackets are a perfect fit, and seem really solid. They are machined from bit chunks of alloy and are definitely not going anywhere. The brakes feel excellent - I think I will need to fit an M3 master cylinder to reduce travel a smidgen, but modulation and feel is really good, and with cheap mintex pads they stop the car silently and very effectively. New bearings are from FAG and are a lot quieter, I no longer have weird noises from the bearings when I turn left. Since everything was off the wheel, I replaced the dust shields with larger M3 ones because why not
.The new brakes fill the wheels nicely, decent clearance under my 17" Pro Race wheels too (I think some OEM 17" wheels may struggle). Unfortunately the photo upload is not working at the moment, so I will edit this post later and add it.
When the M3 rear end goes on, I will fit Brembos at the rear too (porsche boxter), with M3 discs.
Got another load of hours at it today, new water pump fitted, got the 3.07 diff and prop sorted, 6 speed gear selector, exhaust, brakes blead, suspension and steering connected up.
Have a problem with the power steering pipes , they are damaged so need a trip to a breakers during the week to get a new set and I can have the front end bolted up, also need a new air box lid.
Then the hard part getting the ecu, ews, clocks and key talking to each other and hopefully allow it to start.
Have a problem with the power steering pipes , they are damaged so need a trip to a breakers during the week to get a new set and I can have the front end bolted up, also need a new air box lid.
Then the hard part getting the ecu, ews, clocks and key talking to each other and hopefully allow it to start.
Rally Ax said:
Looks like you're getting there, it always takes longer to refit an engine, especially when you find differences as you go.
Enda from EndTuning said that he could put the 3.0 map on my 2.5 ecu - so that part shouldn't be an issue for me.
The BMW dealer software can do this, there are diys online that I will dig out when I am at a computer.Enda from EndTuning said that he could put the 3.0 map on my 2.5 ecu - so that part shouldn't be an issue for me.
Rally Ax said:
Looks like you're getting there, it always takes longer to refit an engine, especially when you find differences as you go.
Enda from EndTuning said that he could put the 3.0 map on my 2.5 ecu - so that part shouldn't be an issue for me.
Finding that annoying, my engine is from a Z4 and got he exhaust from it also, so needed some chopping and welding and new hangers to get sitting mostly right.Enda from EndTuning said that he could put the 3.0 map on my 2.5 ecu - so that part shouldn't be an issue for me.
I got myself ncsexpert and pasoft to try and fiddle with any of the ecu type jobs so should be able to sort steering angle sensor etc.
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