What have you done to your BMW today?
Discussion
Sofa said:
Lost the rear right wheel speed sensor on my E82 125i last week while going to visit my parents, and when limping it back home (and after an unsuccessful attempt to replace the dead sensor) the rear left has now gone. 
As a result I now have no speedo, ABS, traction control or flat tyre monitor, an airbag light, a seatbelt light and obviously no cruise control- so the car is pretty much un-driveable.
Pretty sure as a result it's the reluctor rings swelling and killing them both- the recommended cure is replacement driveshafts, but the only replacements available (OEM BMW are NLA, as are GKN OE replacements) say they're equivalent to the 125i driveshafts but are actually the thinner ones found on the 4-pot E8x's... While I reckon it'll probably be OK as according to RealOEM the thinner shaft is actually slightly heavier than the OEM 125i shaft (I'm assume as a result it's solid and the 125i shaft is hollow) and it was standard fitment on the 120d which has more torque than any N52... I'd rather not risk it.
Hoping that I'll be able to get away with new reluctor rings and sensors otherwise I'll have to bite the bullet and put some replacement driveshafts on and hope that the thinner replacements never cause any trouble...
When I had the same issue a few years ago, the guy I used managed to save the original driveshafts and fit new reluctor rings and sensors, touch wood it's been fine since then. Sounds like the main issue that affects the rings is rust from the driveshaft which can be sanded off, and will still be a better idea than a driveshaft from a different model I would have thought? As a result I now have no speedo, ABS, traction control or flat tyre monitor, an airbag light, a seatbelt light and obviously no cruise control- so the car is pretty much un-driveable.Pretty sure as a result it's the reluctor rings swelling and killing them both- the recommended cure is replacement driveshafts, but the only replacements available (OEM BMW are NLA, as are GKN OE replacements) say they're equivalent to the 125i driveshafts but are actually the thinner ones found on the 4-pot E8x's... While I reckon it'll probably be OK as according to RealOEM the thinner shaft is actually slightly heavier than the OEM 125i shaft (I'm assume as a result it's solid and the 125i shaft is hollow) and it was standard fitment on the 120d which has more torque than any N52... I'd rather not risk it.
Hoping that I'll be able to get away with new reluctor rings and sensors otherwise I'll have to bite the bullet and put some replacement driveshafts on and hope that the thinner replacements never cause any trouble...
Edited by Sofa on Tuesday 14th May 20:32
bodhi said:
Sofa said:
Lost the rear right wheel speed sensor on my E82 125i last week while going to visit my parents, and when limping it back home (and after an unsuccessful attempt to replace the dead sensor) the rear left has now gone. As a result I now have no speedo, ABS, traction control or flat tyre monitor, an airbag light, a seatbelt light and obviously no cruise control- so the car is pretty much un-driveable.
Pretty sure as a result it's the reluctor rings swelling and killing them both- the recommended cure is replacement driveshafts, but the only replacements available (OEM BMW are NLA, as are GKN OE replacements) say they're equivalent to the 125i driveshafts but are actually the thinner ones found on the 4-pot E8x's... While I reckon it'll probably be OK as according to RealOEM the thinner shaft is actually slightly heavier than the OEM 125i shaft (I'm assume as a result it's solid and the 125i shaft is hollow) and it was standard fitment on the 120d which has more torque than any N52... I'd rather not risk it.
Hoping that I'll be able to get away with new reluctor rings and sensors otherwise I'll have to bite the bullet and put some replacement driveshafts on and hope that the thinner replacements never cause any trouble...
When I had the same issue a few years ago, the guy I used managed to save the original driveshafts and fit new reluctor rings and sensors, touch wood it's been fine since then. Sounds like the main issue that affects the rings is rust from the driveshaft which can be sanded off, and will still be a better idea than a driveshaft from a different model I would have thought? As a result I now have no speedo, ABS, traction control or flat tyre monitor, an airbag light, a seatbelt light and obviously no cruise control- so the car is pretty much un-driveable.Pretty sure as a result it's the reluctor rings swelling and killing them both- the recommended cure is replacement driveshafts, but the only replacements available (OEM BMW are NLA, as are GKN OE replacements) say they're equivalent to the 125i driveshafts but are actually the thinner ones found on the 4-pot E8x's... While I reckon it'll probably be OK as according to RealOEM the thinner shaft is actually slightly heavier than the OEM 125i shaft (I'm assume as a result it's solid and the 125i shaft is hollow) and it was standard fitment on the 120d which has more torque than any N52... I'd rather not risk it.
Hoping that I'll be able to get away with new reluctor rings and sensors otherwise I'll have to bite the bullet and put some replacement driveshafts on and hope that the thinner replacements never cause any trouble...
Just can't quite believe that for a car which went out of production just over 10 years ago finding a decent OE replacement is virtually impossible...
Sofa said:
reluctor rings swelling and killing them both- the recommended cure is replacement driveshafts
My mate fixed this by adding a home made spacer to the sensor or where it mounts. I want to say he just used a washer / some washers but can't be certain. You get the idea. Definitely cheaper than changing the whole drive shaft. ATM said:
Sofa said:
reluctor rings swelling and killing them both- the recommended cure is replacement driveshafts
My mate fixed this by adding a home made spacer to the sensor or where it mounts. I want to say he just used a washer / some washers but can't be certain. You get the idea. Definitely cheaper than changing the whole drive shaft. Some garages seem a bit funny about fitting new rings, I assume because it’s a pain in the arse potentially but that might change if the correct drive shafts are NLA.
I had this issue on my E46 330Ci, the rings had swollen to the point that one of them snapped so there was no way of sorting it without removing the driveshaft.
I bought replacement rings and had a local garage remove the driveshafts and replace the rings. That sorted the issue and it didn't return for the time that I owned the car, probably a few years I think.
I don't see any need to replace the driveshafts. Reluctor rings are readily available, and it's probably just a few mm of corrosion that puts the ring out of spec, so a quick sand down and ideally some treatment with a rust convertor, then fit the new rings and make sure they're still tight on the driveshaft, job done.
I bought replacement rings and had a local garage remove the driveshafts and replace the rings. That sorted the issue and it didn't return for the time that I owned the car, probably a few years I think.
I don't see any need to replace the driveshafts. Reluctor rings are readily available, and it's probably just a few mm of corrosion that puts the ring out of spec, so a quick sand down and ideally some treatment with a rust convertor, then fit the new rings and make sure they're still tight on the driveshaft, job done.
As others have said, definintely don't need to replace entire shafts as the rings can be sourced and replaced.
I've done this job many years ago on a relatives E87 118d. The pain is getting the shafts out of the hub. Installing the new ring, new sensor and reinstallation is the easy part.
Wise to use a small washer to space the sensor away slightly. Not had an issue in 5 years.
I've done this job many years ago on a relatives E87 118d. The pain is getting the shafts out of the hub. Installing the new ring, new sensor and reinstallation is the easy part.
Wise to use a small washer to space the sensor away slightly. Not had an issue in 5 years.
Funnily enough whilst we're having this conversation - and a week after I had the front right ABS Sensor replaced, I've had the usual Xmas lights on the dash to say another one has gone. Plugged in Carly to see which one, hoping it was a duff sensor fitted on the front, sadly not it's the left rear one that's gone.
Car drives absolutely fine other than the warning lights and no hill hold, but as we're going on holiday on Sunday and need it to get to the airport the wife is less than impressed. Hoping it's just the sensor and the ring doesn't need redoing again....
Car drives absolutely fine other than the warning lights and no hill hold, but as we're going on holiday on Sunday and need it to get to the airport the wife is less than impressed. Hoping it's just the sensor and the ring doesn't need redoing again....
bodhi said:
Funnily enough whilst we're having this conversation - and a week after I had the front right ABS Sensor replaced, I've had the usual Xmas lights on the dash to say another one has gone. Plugged in Carly to see which one, hoping it was a duff sensor fitted on the front, sadly not it's the left rear one that's gone.
Car drives absolutely fine other than the warning lights and no hill hold, but as we're going on holiday on Sunday and need it to get to the airport the wife is less than impressed. Hoping it's just the sensor and the ring doesn't need redoing again....
Have you tried the spacer trick if you’re chewing through sensors? Might buy you a bit of time. Car drives absolutely fine other than the warning lights and no hill hold, but as we're going on holiday on Sunday and need it to get to the airport the wife is less than impressed. Hoping it's just the sensor and the ring doesn't need redoing again....
Took advantage of the longer evening to replace the passenger side front wheel bearing due to a stripped disc retaining bolt thread (it was boring having the disc fall off when the wheel was removed).
A new dust sheiks was fitted because it was held on with zip ties.
New FAG bearing fitted.
I then replaced the crappy NAPA discs and pads for ATE power discs and ceramic pads
Hoping to replace the rear discs and pads tomorrow because they’re really crusty.
A new dust sheiks was fitted because it was held on with zip ties.
New FAG bearing fitted.
I then replaced the crappy NAPA discs and pads for ATE power discs and ceramic pads
Hoping to replace the rear discs and pads tomorrow because they’re really crusty.
Court_S said:
bodhi said:
Funnily enough whilst we're having this conversation - and a week after I had the front right ABS Sensor replaced, I've had the usual Xmas lights on the dash to say another one has gone. Plugged in Carly to see which one, hoping it was a duff sensor fitted on the front, sadly not it's the left rear one that's gone.
Car drives absolutely fine other than the warning lights and no hill hold, but as we're going on holiday on Sunday and need it to get to the airport the wife is less than impressed. Hoping it's just the sensor and the ring doesn't need redoing again....
Have you tried the spacer trick if you’re chewing through sensors? Might buy you a bit of time. Car drives absolutely fine other than the warning lights and no hill hold, but as we're going on holiday on Sunday and need it to get to the airport the wife is less than impressed. Hoping it's just the sensor and the ring doesn't need redoing again....
Guess we'll be going in a 15 year old Civic instead
Great work on the bearings/brakes tho - definitely not a job I'd be attempting on the drive!
bodhi said:
I'll need to check my receipts however I suspect that the one that has just gone is the only one on the car that hasn't been replaced since I've had it so I'm not too bothered, just bad timing with having to get to the airport on Sunday.
Guess we'll be going in a 15 year old Civic instead
Great work on the bearings/brakes tho - definitely not a job I'd be attempting on the drive!
At least you won’t need to worry about the Civic at the airport!Guess we'll be going in a 15 year old Civic instead
Great work on the bearings/brakes tho - definitely not a job I'd be attempting on the drive!
The bearing was actually pretty easy to do - I was expecting it to be an absolute turd of a job.
JakeT said:
roadie said:
Wow that part is crusty! What is it and is it being retained?
It’s the Upright/spindle/steering knuckle.They’re made if cast iron and solid, that corrosion is superficial. A wire wheel and paint will see it looking fine and it’s safe even in the current state it’s in.
MOT re-test yesterday. Needed a suspension leg, rear arm bush and a brake pipe replacing to pass.
In other news, the damn thing has thrown up more electrical wobbles. Filling for fuel last week, it wouldn't start after, dead battery. First problem to light, is that last year I changed the battery myself, apparently they need coding in to the car with a laptop, FFS. Smacks of BMW trying to force customers to use them instead, for a job which otherwise only takes removing and refitting two nuts.
Now there are certain electrics not working. No indicators or hazards, or ability to flash the lights/ put on full beam. The electric windows aren't working, and it's sods law that the drivers window was down when all this went off. Also there's now no instrument binnacle back lights, and the angel eyes and rear lights don't light when opening by remote.
It's in at a local BMW specialist on the 29th, will update in due course.
In other news, the damn thing has thrown up more electrical wobbles. Filling for fuel last week, it wouldn't start after, dead battery. First problem to light, is that last year I changed the battery myself, apparently they need coding in to the car with a laptop, FFS. Smacks of BMW trying to force customers to use them instead, for a job which otherwise only takes removing and refitting two nuts.
Now there are certain electrics not working. No indicators or hazards, or ability to flash the lights/ put on full beam. The electric windows aren't working, and it's sods law that the drivers window was down when all this went off. Also there's now no instrument binnacle back lights, and the angel eyes and rear lights don't light when opening by remote.
It's in at a local BMW specialist on the 29th, will update in due course.
Fermit said:
MOT re-test yesterday. Needed a suspension leg, rear arm bush and a brake pipe replacing to pass.
In other news, the damn thing has thrown up more electrical wobbles. Filling for fuel last week, it wouldn't start after, dead battery. First problem to light, is that last year I changed the battery myself, apparently they need coding in to the car with a laptop, FFS. Smacks of BMW trying to force customers to use them instead, for a job which otherwise only takes removing and refitting two nuts.
Now there are certain electrics not working. No indicators or hazards, or ability to flash the lights/ put on full beam. The electric windows aren't working, and it's sods law that the drivers window was down when all this went off. Also there's now no instrument binnacle back lights, and the angel eyes and rear lights don't light when opening by remote.
It's in at a local BMW specialist on the 29th, will update in due course.
Your battery shouldn’t die within a year if you don’t code it, but nowadays there’s plenty of aftermarket solutions that can code a battery easily enough.In other news, the damn thing has thrown up more electrical wobbles. Filling for fuel last week, it wouldn't start after, dead battery. First problem to light, is that last year I changed the battery myself, apparently they need coding in to the car with a laptop, FFS. Smacks of BMW trying to force customers to use them instead, for a job which otherwise only takes removing and refitting two nuts.
Now there are certain electrics not working. No indicators or hazards, or ability to flash the lights/ put on full beam. The electric windows aren't working, and it's sods law that the drivers window was down when all this went off. Also there's now no instrument binnacle back lights, and the angel eyes and rear lights don't light when opening by remote.
It's in at a local BMW specialist on the 29th, will update in due course.
However, it sounds like your electrical issues could be related to the footwell module dying. They have a habit of dying when the battery is disconnected and reconnected. German engineering.
JakeT said:
roadie said:
Wow that part is crusty! What is it and is it being retained?
It’s the Upright/spindle/steering knuckle.They’re made if cast iron and solid, that corrosion is superficial. A wire wheel and paint will see it looking fine and it’s safe even in the current state it’s in.
JakeT said:
Your battery shouldn’t die within a year if you don’t code it, but nowadays there’s plenty of aftermarket solutions that can code a battery easily enough.
However, it sounds like your electrical issues could be related to the footwell module dying. They have a habit of dying when the battery is disconnected and reconnected. German engineering.
Yeah, sounds more like a dead FRM. I’m guessing it’s an FRM II which are generally a bit more reliable than the three, but it sounds like the dead / dying battery fried it (pretty common from what I’ve seen on owners groups etc. A replacement from somewhere like Quarry Motors isn’t too expensive but it’ll need coding to the car.However, it sounds like your electrical issues could be related to the footwell module dying. They have a habit of dying when the battery is disconnected and reconnected. German engineering.
Re coding the battery, assuming it’s the same size as the old one it’s registering it rather than coding. All to do with the IBS.
Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff