Where to, or better, where not to spray ACF-50?

Where to, or better, where not to spray ACF-50?

Author
Discussion

3doorPete

9,918 posts

236 months

Tuesday 3rd January 2012
quotequote all
moanthebairns said:
done a youtube thing and a google search, looks too good to be true.

Can you use it on fairings? Will it fk my stickers?

Im really, really lazy I cant be arsed taking my fairings off. Can I just spray this stuff on them and rinse off.

Your talking to a guy who bought a horn 3 months ago to replace his old broken one. instead of taking 5 mins to change it I still continue to frantically wave my arms and swear in my helmet at people who cut me up.
You'd be better of with GT85 if you want to use it like that. That's why I use GT85 on the scoots and the off roader - you can spray it over everything easily.

ACF50 is used by military on Aircraft carriers to protect the chrome on hydraulic rams and electronics on fighters on aircraft carriers.

Mr OCD is a legend at applying it and runs his R1 through winter. Looks fresh as a daisy - search out his threads. He has more patience for application than me though!

moanthebairns

17,990 posts

200 months

Tuesday 3rd January 2012
quotequote all
Turbofocus said:
Its for use on metal to stop corrosion.You need to remove the fairing to get at the bike underneath,its not really a case of stand 3 foot back and just drench the bike.
Ok if your talking about a bit of overspray near the edges then yes it will be ok to wipe off afterwards but for a proper job you need to take the fairing off imho.

On a side note avoid the throttle area as it makes it stick.
Balls I thought it would envolve that.

I just use my chain lube for any bits that may rust, foot peg, key slot etc all the wee places you can see may just buy this stuff instead and give it a go.

PaulMoor

3,209 posts

165 months

Tuesday 3rd January 2012
quotequote all
moanthebairns said:
what is this acf-50, Ive obviously missed it getting praised on the forum, is it just like chain lube but for your whole bike or something?
It's made to protect flight surfaces, hydraulics and electronics from de-icer, salt, muck and the like, which is much nastyer than road grit, and much more sensative than a bike.

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

257 months

Tuesday 3rd January 2012
quotequote all
3doorPete said:
You'd be better of with GT85 if you want to use it like that. That's why I use GT85 on the scoots and the off roader - you can spray it over everything easily.
My brother used to use GT85 on his CBR600, drenched the thing in it if he ever rode it in the wet and it was still looking immaculate when he sold it a couple of years later (living outside under a cover).

defblade

7,468 posts

215 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
Great stuff, apply all over (bar discs and tyres...) around about October and your bike will look like a stter all winter. But when you wash it all off in spring, it looks like it did 6 months ago underneath smile





A thin coating may also seriously freshen up slightly corroded/rusty bits at trade-in time... whistle

moanthebairns

17,990 posts

200 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
Sounds great, why did no one come up with this when I asked for bike christmas stocking fillers wink
Ill need to get some.

redtwin

7,518 posts

184 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
I think you pros missed a pretty vital question from the OP.

B19GRR said:
What about on the fork stanchions or the rear shock?
From the mention of it being used on hydraulic rams I would imagine it is, but maybe you could advise him further.

3doorPete

9,918 posts

236 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
redtwin said:
I think you pros missed a pretty vital question from the OP.

B19GRR said:
What about on the fork stanchions or the rear shock?
From the mention of it being used on hydraulic rams I would imagine it is, but maybe you could advise him further.
I use it on a clean rag to do clean/protect my stanchions on all my bikes. I would not do the same with WD40.

J B L

4,201 posts

217 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
3doorPete said:
redtwin said:
I think you pros missed a pretty vital question from the OP.

B19GRR said:
What about on the fork stanchions or the rear shock?
From the mention of it being used on hydraulic rams I would imagine it is, but maybe you could advise him further.
I use it on a clean rag to do clean/protect my stanchions on all my bikes. I would not do the same with WD40.
Forks: apply with rag
Shock: spray on all around
Include all fixing points + linkage

Look like new.

WD 40 only used to clean chains and wheels and in the ignition and underseat barels.

B19GRR

Original Poster:

1,980 posts

258 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
J B L said:
3doorPete said:
redtwin said:
I think you pros missed a pretty vital question from the OP.

B19GRR said:
What about on the fork stanchions or the rear shock?
From the mention of it being used on hydraulic rams I would imagine it is, but maybe you could advise him further.
I use it on a clean rag to do clean/protect my stanchions on all my bikes. I would not do the same with WD40.
Forks: apply with rag
Shock: spray on all around
Include all fixing points + linkage

Look like new.

WD 40 only used to clean chains and wheels and in the ignition and underseat barels.
Thanks all! If it isn't belting it down this weekend then I'll give it a go.

Mr OCD

6,388 posts

213 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
Information:

http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm

Whole engine, metal work, etc excluding fairings gets a good going over every three months on my R1 ... it does smoke like hell on start up but its not a problem and the heat will actually seal the product on hot surfaces to give some protection.

After every wash I dry the bike then apply ACF50 to a cloth and do the following areas:

- Swing arm / bolts
- rear caliper / bolts
- shock linkage / bolts
- gear shift / rear brake linkages
- foot peg hangers / foot protection plates
- chain
- front forks / calipers / bolts
- wheels
- any bolts that can be easily seen and got at ...

Sounds a lot but the full wash and top up takes me an hour.

In between washes I don't worry about the weather... in heavy salt / Winter I will rinse down with cold water but that is it.

Full application is better with a spray gun / compressor but if you have the hand pump playing with the pressure with the product warm gives a nice mist. For the topping up an MF cloth with some product on it is all you need... a little goes a long way.

If you've put a lot on then leave it for an hour (overnight best) and just wipe it down with a cloth.

It's great stuff and brings up black swing arms / frames up lovely!

Pics of mine done:











Not bad at all considering ridden all year and averages 1500 miles a month... smile

This was before the wash (but ACF50 protected):










Edited by Mr OCD on Wednesday 4th January 09:54

VB

9,074 posts

217 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
I need to give this stuff a go before putting my 7R back on the road. Probably best while she's naked and everything is freshly lubed up. I use a decent PTFE based wax for the fairings once every 12 weeks and 'top it up' with Mr Sheen in between. Mr Sheen is the bks when it comes to shiney paintworkbiggrin


Mr OCD

6,388 posts

213 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
VB said:
Mr Sheen is the bks when it comes to shiney paintworkbiggrin
No it's not. smile

3doorPete

9,918 posts

236 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
VB said:
I need to give this stuff a go before putting my 7R back on the road. Probably best while she's naked and everything is freshly lubed up. I use a decent PTFE based wax for the fairings once every 12 weeks and 'top it up' with Mr Sheen in between. Mr Sheen is the bks when it comes to shiney paintworkbiggrin
Do it! I do mine and it's great.

For paintwork, Meguirs clay,(watch non lacquered decals), then autoglym polish, then Meguirs wax. Topped off with Pledge in between for me.

Biker's Nemesis

38,873 posts

210 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
3doorPete said:
Pledge in between for me.
Mr Sheen is better.

3doorPete

9,918 posts

236 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
Biker's Nemesis said:
3doorPete said:
Pledge in between for me.
Mr Sheen is better.
Is that because it shines umpteen things clean?

VB

9,074 posts

217 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all


This stuff is awesome, but expensive (I know it says polish- it's not, it's wax). You have to be careful handling the bike straight afterwards as the paintwork goes like glass.

Biker's Nemesis

38,873 posts

210 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
3doorPete said:
Biker's Nemesis said:
3doorPete said:
Pledge in between for me.
Mr Sheen is better.
Is that because it shines umpteen things clean?
Shifts, shields and shines. (try saying that after a few)

3doorPete

9,918 posts

236 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
Biker's Nemesis said:
3doorPete said:
Biker's Nemesis said:
3doorPete said:
Pledge in between for me.
Mr Sheen is better.
Is that because it shines umpteen things clean?
Shifts, shields and shines. (try saying that after a few)
in sheconds, I would imagine.

Mr OCD

6,388 posts

213 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
I despair ... Sheen / Pledge on a biker forum? biggrin

It might make the paintwork shiny (in your eyes - certainly not mine) but other than that it does sod all ... if you want a similar product that does make paintwork shiny but also protects and can be sprayed on / wiped off as much as you like then give this a go...

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/zaino/zaino-z-8-gran...