What did you do in the garage yesterday?
Discussion
Can you reach the damper adjusters with the wheels on? At the bottom is how mine are, but......
Mine were fitted by a TVR guy with the adjusters facing the other way, so I just put my arm round the wheel while lying by the car and adjust them. I cannot see how I would reach them how you have them, unless I took the wheel off. Bit of a pain if you are making multiple slight adjustments.
Mine were fitted by a TVR guy with the adjusters facing the other way, so I just put my arm round the wheel while lying by the car and adjust them. I cannot see how I would reach them how you have them, unless I took the wheel off. Bit of a pain if you are making multiple slight adjustments.
With a nice new ramp making life easy, started on the following:
New Gaz Golds all round
New grooved rear discs and Red stuff pads
Replaced leaking output shaft seal on diff
New oil pressure sender
Engine oil and filter change
Couple of sessions like this and the ramp would have paid for itself!!
New Gaz Golds all round
New grooved rear discs and Red stuff pads
Replaced leaking output shaft seal on diff
New oil pressure sender
Engine oil and filter change
Couple of sessions like this and the ramp would have paid for itself!!
QBee said:
Can you reach the damper adjusters with the wheels on? At the bottom is how mine are, but......
Mine were fitted by a TVR guy with the adjusters facing the other way, so I just put my arm round the wheel while lying by the car and adjust them. I cannot see how I would reach them how you have them, unless I took the wheel off. Bit of a pain if you are making multiple slight adjustments.
Blast! you are correct I will spin it round. I meant to do it that way but forgot. Thanks.Mine were fitted by a TVR guy with the adjusters facing the other way, so I just put my arm round the wheel while lying by the car and adjust them. I cannot see how I would reach them how you have them, unless I took the wheel off. Bit of a pain if you are making multiple slight adjustments.
wuckfitracing said:
mark
http://www.willowsportscars.co.uk/suspension_and_s...
Edited by portzi on Sunday 29th June 09:33
Collected the car from having some expensive work done .
Swapped the front wheels over, as they had refitted them on the wrong sides (direction arrows pointing backwards)!
Spent some time cleaning dirt and bird crap off it as it had been left on the car whilst it was there. Had to polish two areas of body which had been damaged by the aforementioned bird/birds, to get the marks out!
Giving it a bit better clean today.
Swapped the front wheels over, as they had refitted them on the wrong sides (direction arrows pointing backwards)!
Spent some time cleaning dirt and bird crap off it as it had been left on the car whilst it was there. Had to polish two areas of body which had been damaged by the aforementioned bird/birds, to get the marks out!
Giving it a bit better clean today.
Sorted FrenchieTVR's dead electric windows & defective handbrake warning light, ended the afternoon by fitting his fire extinguisher.
He's now ready for our trip to Le Mans this week, the next big questions are....
Note to self...... "best pack some extra tools"
Roll on Le Mans Classic
He's now ready for our trip to Le Mans this week, the next big questions are....
- Will the Porsche 912/6 restoration be finished?
- Will the Sunbeam Alpine's engine & gearbox be back in the car?
Note to self...... "best pack some extra tools"
Roll on Le Mans Classic
ChimpOnGas said:
Sorted FrenchieTVR's dead electric windows & defective handbrake warning light, ended the afternoon by fitting his fire extinguisher.
He's now ready for our trip to Le Mans this week, the next big questions are....
Note to self...... "best pack some extra tools"
Roll on Le Mans Classic
classic is so much better than the main 24hrs. l will keep my eyes peeled for pistonhead and tvr flags He's now ready for our trip to Le Mans this week, the next big questions are....
- Will the Porsche 912/6 restoration be finished?
- Will the Sunbeam Alpine's engine & gearbox be back in the car?
Note to self...... "best pack some extra tools"
Roll on Le Mans Classic
portzi said:
Hi Colin. seeing as your removing the dampners , you could fit some heat shields between the underside of the manifold and the top of your damper. it will protect your dampner from heat soak and also the bush, especially if they are a poly bush variety as they don't like the heat. by the way, your chassis is looking very nice, great work.
mark
http://www.willowsportscars.co.uk/suspension_and_s...
The kit for the bushes came with a reflective heat insulation material that is supposed to be wrapped around the top bush where the exhaust is. I have read before that this is next to useless so I will speak to Nick and order the metal types. Thanksmark
http://www.willowsportscars.co.uk/suspension_and_s...
Edited by portzi on Sunday 29th June 09:33
Had mine wrapped in that material for about 5 years, all ok.
I really pulled out all the stops yesterday.
I fitted another aperture with grill below the open front area and moved the numberplate to the centre, (velcroed on).
Took about an hour so treated myself to a cup of tea and a donut after
I really pulled out all the stops yesterday.
I fitted another aperture with grill below the open front area and moved the numberplate to the centre, (velcroed on).
Took about an hour so treated myself to a cup of tea and a donut after
wuckfitracing said:
portzi said:
Hi Colin. seeing as your removing the dampners , you could fit some heat shields between the underside of the manifold and the top of your damper. it will protect your dampner from heat soak and also the bush, especially if they are a poly bush variety as they don't like the heat. by the way, your chassis is looking very nice, great work.
mark
http://www.willowsportscars.co.uk/suspension_and_s...
The kit for the bushes came with a reflective heat insulation material that is supposed to be wrapped around the top bush where the exhaust is. I have read before that this is next to useless so I will speak to Nick and order the metal types. Thanksmark
http://www.willowsportscars.co.uk/suspension_and_s...
Edited by portzi on Sunday 29th June 09:33
l did not know you were a customer of Sir Nicks
. Just tell him you have been speaking to "Private Pike on Pistonheads. It will make him laugh!!Edited by portzi on Sunday 29th June 18:48
Edited by portzi on Sunday 29th June 18:49
So, cut and shaped down-pipe bend to fit turbo flange at correct angle, and let in lambda sensor bung ready for welding. Quite happy with that (apart from the hot shard of stainless swarf that found its way inside my sandal).
Established wastegate link pipe will need a curve or angle on it to give decent clearance over front cross-member so can get that whistled up too (assuming size is not as odd as I expect it will be given its 'merican). Happy enough with that too.
Changed intercooler in/out temperature gauge head-unit for later variant to match other instruments and colours all match now (happy), programming functionality is common across all instruments (happy), but the sodding thing is reading nonsense and also 'cycling' over a wide range for both channels. Might be interference from the battery charger that is currently connected but severely dischuffed if that means the amplifiers and/or thermocouples have to be changed too.
Started measuring and planning how to re-jig bolt in cross-member. Been putting this off until I'd thought it through and done some research but safe to say this eve it won't have a notch in it - for one thing it still wouldn't clear the turbo. Happier again.
Established wastegate link pipe will need a curve or angle on it to give decent clearance over front cross-member so can get that whistled up too (assuming size is not as odd as I expect it will be given its 'merican). Happy enough with that too.
Changed intercooler in/out temperature gauge head-unit for later variant to match other instruments and colours all match now (happy), programming functionality is common across all instruments (happy), but the sodding thing is reading nonsense and also 'cycling' over a wide range for both channels. Might be interference from the battery charger that is currently connected but severely dischuffed if that means the amplifiers and/or thermocouples have to be changed too.
Started measuring and planning how to re-jig bolt in cross-member. Been putting this off until I'd thought it through and done some research but safe to say this eve it won't have a notch in it - for one thing it still wouldn't clear the turbo. Happier again.
At least you have some progress Pupp.
After rebuilding 'the other V8' to get rid of the vibration, on Sunday I connected up the ignition, exhaust and fuel and last night I started her up. The vibration persisists.
Looks like its coming out again for the crank, pistons, rods etc to be balanced.
Hey ho!
After rebuilding 'the other V8' to get rid of the vibration, on Sunday I connected up the ignition, exhaust and fuel and last night I started her up. The vibration persisists.
Looks like its coming out again for the crank, pistons, rods etc to be balanced.
Hey ho!
Have you had the sump off Alan, to see whether you've half a piston skirt or worse sitting in the bottom?
Another reasonable evening for me in that I've confirmed the I/C temp gauge issue was due to the battery charger being in circuit, and I've re-routed the wiring between ECU and MAP sensor/inlet air temp sensor to avoid a long and unnecessary loop down the wing void and back to the plenum along the inner skin - tip for anyone struggling to get cable through the wiper motor grommet from the engine bay into the cabin, a feed straight down drops right into the passenger footwell behind the heater loop pipes. Trying to go in at the obvious angle perpendicular to the grommet/hole will just be obstructed by the heater (a wiki for understanding the various voids and wiring channels would be useful).
Even managed to sikka-seal the disturbed grommet without getting completely slathered in the evil gunk
Another reasonable evening for me in that I've confirmed the I/C temp gauge issue was due to the battery charger being in circuit, and I've re-routed the wiring between ECU and MAP sensor/inlet air temp sensor to avoid a long and unnecessary loop down the wing void and back to the plenum along the inner skin - tip for anyone struggling to get cable through the wiper motor grommet from the engine bay into the cabin, a feed straight down drops right into the passenger footwell behind the heater loop pipes. Trying to go in at the obvious angle perpendicular to the grommet/hole will just be obstructed by the heater (a wiki for understanding the various voids and wiring channels would be useful).
Even managed to sikka-seal the disturbed grommet without getting completely slathered in the evil gunk
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