Tools for manifold removal?
Discussion
dazee said:
That rear bolt on the underside is the only one I have left to remove now. Try as I might today I just could not get a spanner onto it. Will have another bash at it this weekend.
Looks like would be much easier to take the starter motor off to access it. Any pitfalls in doing that?
This thread is still on the main screen: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...Looks like would be much easier to take the starter motor off to access it. Any pitfalls in doing that?
I would try squeezing your hand down the back of the manifold and the bulkhead (no.8) and the gap in the manifold between nos.4 & 6. Use a spanner with a piece of string attached. Push the spanner on the nut with your left hand (down the back of the manifold) and put it upwards with your right hand (between 4&6). Depends how think your wrists and hands are though… and how tight that nut is on!
Here you go nice current thread,
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
If you choose not to remove the starter adopt the following position.
Head under car flat on your back with feet sticking out at the rear of the front wheelarch. Spanner in right hand, place your right arm up and over the starter, from memory you have to jam your hand in between it and the clutch slave which is a bit tight. Your left goes in from in front of starter motor and try to grab the other end of the spanner.
If you took the TVR away at this point you would look like you were laying on your back with your arms round an invisible beach ball.
From here you can blindly guide the spanner onto the nut and undo. It's a bit of a PITA but I can do it quicker than spinning the starter off. As stated earlier you do end up with the spanner in the proximity of the starter terminals so take care.
Hope it comes off easily.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
If you choose not to remove the starter adopt the following position.
Head under car flat on your back with feet sticking out at the rear of the front wheelarch. Spanner in right hand, place your right arm up and over the starter, from memory you have to jam your hand in between it and the clutch slave which is a bit tight. Your left goes in from in front of starter motor and try to grab the other end of the spanner.
If you took the TVR away at this point you would look like you were laying on your back with your arms round an invisible beach ball.
From here you can blindly guide the spanner onto the nut and undo. It's a bit of a PITA but I can do it quicker than spinning the starter off. As stated earlier you do end up with the spanner in the proximity of the starter terminals so take care.
Hope it comes off easily.
dazee said:
That rear bolt on the underside is the only one I have left to remove now. Try as I might today I just could not get a spanner onto it. Will have another bash at it this weekend.
Looks like would be much easier to take the starter motor off to access it. Any pitfalls in doing that?
Much easier with the starter off.Looks like would be much easier to take the starter motor off to access it. Any pitfalls in doing that?
Disconnect battery, disconnect starter electric connections then it's just 2 Allen headed cap bolts.
Check size on bottom bolt, add an extension and "feel" the top bolt. Easier then it sounds.
If it hasn't been mentioned, Tim at ACT does the Nordlocks and ARP bolts.
Note, even though ARPs are easier to use, I did find they loosened easier. The mild steel of the original bolts is gripped better then the hard stainless steel of the ARPs.
phazed said:
Much easier with the starter off.
Disconnect battery, disconnect starter electric connections then it's just 2 Allen headed cap bolts.
Check size on bottom bolt, add an extension and "feel" the top bolt. Easier then it sounds.
If it hasn't been mentioned, Tim at ACT does the Nordlocks and ARP bolts.
Note, even though ARPs are easier to use, I did find they loosened easier. The mild steel of the original bolts is gripped better then the hard stainless steel of the ARPs.
Not a Pilates fan then, Peter. Disconnect battery, disconnect starter electric connections then it's just 2 Allen headed cap bolts.
Check size on bottom bolt, add an extension and "feel" the top bolt. Easier then it sounds.
If it hasn't been mentioned, Tim at ACT does the Nordlocks and ARP bolts.
Note, even though ARPs are easier to use, I did find they loosened easier. The mild steel of the original bolts is gripped better then the hard stainless steel of the ARPs.
Thanks guys I'll give it another shot on the weekend once I'm rested and warmed up. I'm not so worried about my flexibility, it's physical size in getting me mits into the right places, I ain't exactly dainty 
If it doesn't work then will take the starter off.
Already have the battery disconnected after my first go under the car seeing that big power cable right in front of my nose.
Trying to order the bolts, gaskets and a few other pieces from the UK. Waiting on shipping charges so I can pay for them.
If it doesn't work then will take the starter off.Already have the battery disconnected after my first go under the car seeing that big power cable right in front of my nose.
Trying to order the bolts, gaskets and a few other pieces from the UK. Waiting on shipping charges so I can pay for them.
phazed said:
Much easier with the starter off.
Disconnect battery, disconnect starter electric connections then it's just 2 Allen headed cap bolts.
Check size on bottom bolt, add an extension and "feel" the top bolt. Easier then it sounds.
If it hasn't been mentioned, Tim at ACT does the Nordlocks and ARP bolts.
Note, even though ARPs are easier to use, I did find they loosened easier. The mild steel of the original bolts is gripped better then the hard stainless steel of the ARPs.
Agree with Peter cant really recommend the ARP bolts for the headers bit to short and an absolute arse for loosening especially on the rear 2 cylinders no matter what gaskets your using Disconnect battery, disconnect starter electric connections then it's just 2 Allen headed cap bolts.
Check size on bottom bolt, add an extension and "feel" the top bolt. Easier then it sounds.
If it hasn't been mentioned, Tim at ACT does the Nordlocks and ARP bolts.
Note, even though ARPs are easier to use, I did find they loosened easier. The mild steel of the original bolts is gripped better then the hard stainless steel of the ARPs.
you cant get the Nordlocks to bite into the hard stainless 
phazed said:
Just checked my 4.6 with ARPs and several are loose.....again!
I have ARPs and they stay tight, in fact last time you mentioned yours coming loose I went and checked mine and they were still ok.I PM'd you earlier Peter about something unrelated, can you let me know if it got through?
It is the bolts under 3&4 that are the most difficult, as these will need to be in position before you replace the manifolds. It may be different with ARP bolts.
As for studs; if you slot the bottom bolt holes on the manifolds, you can place the nuts on the studs before sliding the manifold into place. It's just a quick tighten up from underneath then. Makes removal and refitting a lot faster.
As for studs; if you slot the bottom bolt holes on the manifolds, you can place the nuts on the studs before sliding the manifold into place. It's just a quick tighten up from underneath then. Makes removal and refitting a lot faster.
That sounds like an excellent idea if I understand that correctly. Just get the angle grinder to make slots to the bottom manifold bolt holes so it will slide straight onto bolts already located in the cylinder head and then tighten down?
Any downside to this? It does seem such an easy thing to do to simplify the process that you have to wonder why it's not like this from factory.
Apologies if my questions are around the basics, but I'm paranoid around making stupid mistakes and am learning a lot through this forum.
Any downside to this? It does seem such an easy thing to do to simplify the process that you have to wonder why it's not like this from factory.
Apologies if my questions are around the basics, but I'm paranoid around making stupid mistakes and am learning a lot through this forum.
I got the same recommendation from a few on here and haven't had any issues. The slotting was easy enough with an angle grinder and the studs and nuts are cheap enough too. Simply use a metal file to de-burr and smooth the edges of the manifolds afterwards so they don't damage the exhaust gaskets. I had to remove them again shortly after putting them back in and it took me about 25 minutes a side.
Chuffmeister said:
As for studs; if you slot the bottom bolt holes on the manifolds, you can place the nuts on the studs before sliding the manifold into place. It's just a quick tighten up from underneath then. Makes removal and refitting a lot faster.
It amazes me that after promoting slotting for nearly 10 years it's only just becoming 'popular' 
I've explained many times how to improve manifold fixings, even using wasted studs with smaller nuts on the lower holes and the cap+hex bolts I use on the uppers (so you can spin in with a ball hex driver) which can also be wired if required (but I don't bother they dont come loose IME). I probably still have a few sets leftover.
Edited by spend on Thursday 23 January 15:59
spend said:
It amazes me that after promoting slotting for nearly 10 years it's only just becoming 'popular'
I've explained many times how to improve manifold fixings, even using wasted studs with smaller nuts on the lower holes and the cap+hex bolts I use on the uppers (so you can spin in with a ball hex driver) which can also be wired if required (but I don't bother they dont come loose IME). I probably still have a few sets leftover.
Yes please Dave I've explained many times how to improve manifold fixings, even using wasted studs with smaller nuts on the lower holes and the cap+hex bolts I use on the uppers (so you can spin in with a ball hex driver) which can also be wired if required (but I don't bother they dont come loose IME). I probably still have a few sets leftover.
Edited by spend on Thursday 23 January 15:59
while the motor is out and all that I may as well get involved doing this while the manifolds are being slotted & matched to the new ex ports etc Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff