johns tvr rebuild
Discussion
SILICONEKID350HP said:
Nice ,can yu give me al link for the battery isolator ,like the idea of picking the ECU live at that point .
Is this the kind of think you mean?http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID007250
brett84 said:
Cheers Brett Its not to far from me .. Have you gat a battery lead crimp tool ? 
Engineer1949 said:
Do make sure the rating is heavy enough for what you need the isolators i use are made by hella and are rated for light to medium diesel aroind the 1000 amp mark i source them from our local marine eletrical supplier b. ward should you require one let me know.
John
Good point John
many of the generic one's you see available would just about pass enough starting juice for a Mini (the original one) 
let alone for an 8 pot 
many of the Drag racing blokes used marine spec back in the day 
got quite lot done today, finished painting the middle section of the underside of the body, got the lower section of the dash in, fuse box fixed, checked the radio head unit will fit, got the heater controls in and fitted the top section with the gauges although the gauges have yet to be fitted ,made the top to the fuse box and checked all the circuits after fitting the dash including starting the engine all seems good,and took the tape holding the bezel in place off.
john
john
Isolator switch and electronics
The most common type of isolator comprises of a heavy duty switch, that is normally wired into the main positive feed from the battery and has a simple removable red plastic key.
If your car is fitted with an alarm clocks, ECU’s or other devices, some modern radios require voltage to keep all the preset stuff, it may be a good idea to bridge the master switch with a small inline fuse, this will enable enough current to be drawn to operate the devices, but will blow, should an attempt be made to start the car without the red plastic key in place.
There is available an isolator which has been specially designed to eliminate the possibility of damaging the alternator circuit due to the heavy voltage surge that may occur with a single circuit on-off switch, it has a 3ohm 11watt resistor which you wire from the battery side of the switch to earth.
NOTE - Do not be tempted to use the standard isolator to kill the engine directly while it is running.
I used a standard (FIA / MSA) isolator, during one race I rolled badly the marshals pulled the ‘T’ handle to cut the engine, only after did I discover it had blown the diode pack in the alternator hence I fitted the alternative type with a resistor. Not that you are wanting to roll a TVR.
The most common type of isolator comprises of a heavy duty switch, that is normally wired into the main positive feed from the battery and has a simple removable red plastic key.
If your car is fitted with an alarm clocks, ECU’s or other devices, some modern radios require voltage to keep all the preset stuff, it may be a good idea to bridge the master switch with a small inline fuse, this will enable enough current to be drawn to operate the devices, but will blow, should an attempt be made to start the car without the red plastic key in place.
There is available an isolator which has been specially designed to eliminate the possibility of damaging the alternator circuit due to the heavy voltage surge that may occur with a single circuit on-off switch, it has a 3ohm 11watt resistor which you wire from the battery side of the switch to earth.
NOTE - Do not be tempted to use the standard isolator to kill the engine directly while it is running.
I used a standard (FIA / MSA) isolator, during one race I rolled badly the marshals pulled the ‘T’ handle to cut the engine, only after did I discover it had blown the diode pack in the alternator hence I fitted the alternative type with a resistor. Not that you are wanting to roll a TVR.
busy days monday and today had a day in the machine shop finished the hood sticks mod to allow the roll bars to fit nicely, made some stainless cup washers for the door catches and some extended nuts to make fitting the hood rear section easy all in stainless, made a couple of new spacers for the rear hood bolts where they fit into the door pillars and today got the boot seal fitted, at last secured the purchase of some blue dash bulbs for the instruments what a relief i bought forty to make sure i have plenty of spares, the trimmers have made a really small piped section to fit along the bottom of the instrument panel and the upholstery just finishes it off nicely, carpets are being bound tomorrow plus got the closures around the roll bar mountings behind the seats made, plus lots of sundries like blanking the old seat belt mount holes and cleaning the cab ready for carpet, i have also fabricated two jigs for the roll bars so i can replicate them at some juncture.
john
john
Edited by Engineer1949 on Tuesday 26th February 20:25
Edited by Engineer1949 on Tuesday 26th February 20:26
king exciting car, pardon my French but it shows how beautiful all our Chimeara's are! The mans having a ball lol lol. Respect sir John lol lol lol lol. lots going on today got some help wiring up the mirrors, radio is now sorted and working had to find a wifi signal to download two apps to get the thing to make a sound technology dont you just love it ,got the inner wing doors fitted moved the airpressure sensor as it just clashed with the fuel regulator, got some more work done on the dash wiring instruments going in tomorrow bonnet pins fitted bonnet recut and polished .
john
john
Edited by Engineer1949 on Wednesday 27th February 20:32
Edited by Engineer1949 on Wednesday 27th February 20:32
Edited by Engineer1949 on Wednesday 27th February 20:33
Hoofa said:
BliarOut said:
You need some proper relay housings on that wiring to do the rest of your work justice 
Ah u been watching us electrical apprentices when u were small ) I always fancied myself as a sparks...Just imagining swapping that relay out in a few years if all the wires are the same colour...
Sardonicus said:
ood point many of the generic one's you see available would just about pass enough starting juice for a Mini (the original one) let alone for an 8 pot many of the Drag racing blokes used marine spec back in the day
T1ppers top tip for battery cable is, many of the generic one's you see available would just about pass enough starting juice for a Mini (the original one) let alone for an 8 pot many of the Drag racing blokes used marine spec back in the day "If the cable is not be heavy enough to tow start the car it wont be up to the job of starting from the battery"
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