Moved battery to boot
Discussion
Big thank you to Jeboa for the crimping of the leads.
Martin, don't try and use the upper earth points in the boot as there's no room behind the fuel tank and it forces the tank forward. Use the lower chassis mounting points below the tank level.
You will also need to make up a lead from the starter to the fusebox. I overlooked this and will need to get some suitable cable and make one up.
I tried the route down the hollow sill but couldn't get the cable through.
Martin, don't try and use the upper earth points in the boot as there's no room behind the fuel tank and it forces the tank forward. Use the lower chassis mounting points below the tank level.
You will also need to make up a lead from the starter to the fusebox. I overlooked this and will need to get some suitable cable and make one up.
I tried the route down the hollow sill but couldn't get the cable through.
Alan,
I pulled the tank out yesterday, and there looks like there might be enough room as it sits slightly forward.
The nuts/bolts? at the bottom look pretty corroded - what size are they - M10/12?
In my car the starter (and hence the battery) was connected to the alternator by two large (brown) wires, which then run to behind the dashboard (through) two bullet connectors and down to the fuseboard.
It's (on the Griffith) the same loom that the oil pressure/coolant temp and starter solenoid wires run in - which run inbetween the valley gasket and inlet manifold.
I pulled the tank out yesterday, and there looks like there might be enough room as it sits slightly forward.
The nuts/bolts? at the bottom look pretty corroded - what size are they - M10/12?
In my car the starter (and hence the battery) was connected to the alternator by two large (brown) wires, which then run to behind the dashboard (through) two bullet connectors and down to the fuseboard.
It's (on the Griffith) the same loom that the oil pressure/coolant temp and starter solenoid wires run in - which run inbetween the valley gasket and inlet manifold.
jeboa said:
Alan,
I pulled the tank out yesterday, and there looks like there might be enough room as it sits slightly forward.
The nuts/bolts? at the bottom look pretty corroded - what size are they - M10/12?
In my car the starter (and hence the battery) was connected to the alternator by two large (brown) wires, which then run to behind the dashboard (through) two bullet connectors and down to the fuseboard.
It's (on the Griffith) the same loom that the oil pressure/coolant temp and starter solenoid wires run in - which run inbetween the valley gasket and inlet manifold.
I suppose your car is 6 0r 7 years older than mine and probably done more mileage (mines at 41K miles).I pulled the tank out yesterday, and there looks like there might be enough room as it sits slightly forward.
The nuts/bolts? at the bottom look pretty corroded - what size are they - M10/12?
In my car the starter (and hence the battery) was connected to the alternator by two large (brown) wires, which then run to behind the dashboard (through) two bullet connectors and down to the fuseboard.
It's (on the Griffith) the same loom that the oil pressure/coolant temp and starter solenoid wires run in - which run inbetween the valley gasket and inlet manifold.
The bolts into the lower chassis rail are indeed M10. I happened to have some stainless one so they've gone in and I've run the extra earth cable under the tank. If you have space behind the tank either you are fortunate or the chim/griff tanks are set up differently.
Sounds like a different wiring set up.
If/when you borrow the crimping tool again may I ask you to give me a shout so I can make up a replacement for my starter to fuseboard wire pleaae?
lotusandy said:
I removed the fuel pump relay & there was sufficient power for it to turn the engine
Hi Andy,On the verge of ordering one of these batteries.
Now you have it for a while has the lower capacity caused any grief or do you need a trickle charger or cut-off to prevent it draining too quickly?
Just started moving the fuse box etc. Ralphy how have you fixed/secured the fusebox in place? i have also discovered if you turn the fuse box 45 degrees you dont need to alter the hatch door. I have started this because i had a leak from the heater above. The big question is, is there a handy way of getting it out to have a look see, does the whole dash need to come out?
johnny bravo said:
Just started moving the fuse box etc. Ralphy how have you fixed/secured the fusebox in place?
I haven't really secured it - it just sits in there fine held at the top and bottom by the size of the hole. It's quite firm in there, but if required I can pull it out by a few inches.The 'door' is a piece of ply covered in vinyl and held ip place by press studs, works well IMO.
R
ralphy12345 said:
I haven't really secured it - it just sits in there fine held at the top and bottom by the size of the hole. It's quite firm in there, but if required I can pull it out by a few inches.
The 'door' is a piece of ply covered in vinyl and held ip place by press studs, works well IMO.
R
Looks Superb mate well done, makes it so much easier now The 'door' is a piece of ply covered in vinyl and held ip place by press studs, works well IMO.
R
Pacman1972 said:
Hi Andy,
On the verge of ordering one of these batteries.
Now you have it for a while has the lower capacity caused any grief or do you need a trickle charger or cut-off to prevent it draining too quickly?
Hi Steve,On the verge of ordering one of these batteries.
Now you have it for a while has the lower capacity caused any grief or do you need a trickle charger or cut-off to prevent it draining too quickly?
The smaller battery capacity has made no differnce at all since i fitted the smaller battery, I do use a trickle charger in the winter & I often don't use the car for 2-3 weeks, but then This is just a habit going back to my Caterham days..
Andy
Evening all,
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread however I am in the midst of fitting a battery (same as the one used by lotusandy) into the boot.
The one area I am still concerned about is the routing of the battery cables. To run from the boot into the passenger foot well then follow the old routing would require some 5mtr of +pos cable which seems extremely long. I notice from some of the comments that tyre tread came to a similar conclusion. Again apologies for the repetition but if the following could be clarified it would be very appreciated -
1. From the boot what route did the positive cable to the starter motor take?
2. What route did the negative cable take, was the original earth point at the front of the transmission tunnel used and if not what point was used for earthing.
3. There are smaller twin constant live feed cables from the battery to the back of the fuse box (on my car these reach an in-line fuse block just before the fuse box) - what route did these take and was the cable size also increased.
Any advice or photos would be great to put my mind at rest,
Thanks
Richard
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread however I am in the midst of fitting a battery (same as the one used by lotusandy) into the boot.
The one area I am still concerned about is the routing of the battery cables. To run from the boot into the passenger foot well then follow the old routing would require some 5mtr of +pos cable which seems extremely long. I notice from some of the comments that tyre tread came to a similar conclusion. Again apologies for the repetition but if the following could be clarified it would be very appreciated -
1. From the boot what route did the positive cable to the starter motor take?
2. What route did the negative cable take, was the original earth point at the front of the transmission tunnel used and if not what point was used for earthing.
3. There are smaller twin constant live feed cables from the battery to the back of the fuse box (on my car these reach an in-line fuse block just before the fuse box) - what route did these take and was the cable size also increased.
Any advice or photos would be great to put my mind at rest,
Thanks
Richard
Dickie Dastardly said:
Evening all,
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread however I am in the midst of fitting a battery (same as the one used by lotusandy) into the boot.
The one area I am still concerned about is the routing of the battery cables. To run from the boot into the passenger foot well then follow the old routing would require some 5mtr of +pos cable which seems extremely long. I notice from some of the comments that tyre tread came to a similar conclusion. Again apologies for the repetition but if the following could be clarified it would be very appreciated -
1. From the boot what route did the positive cable to the starter motor take?
2. What route did the negative cable take, was the original earth point at the front of the transmission tunnel used and if not what point was used for earthing.
3. There are smaller twin constant live feed cables from the battery to the back of the fuse box (on my car these reach an in-line fuse block just before the fuse box) - what route did these take and was the cable size also increased.
Any advice or photos would be great to put my mind at rest,
Thanks
Richard
1) Positive exits boot as per pic and then runs along chassis to the starter.Sorry for resurrecting an old thread however I am in the midst of fitting a battery (same as the one used by lotusandy) into the boot.
The one area I am still concerned about is the routing of the battery cables. To run from the boot into the passenger foot well then follow the old routing would require some 5mtr of +pos cable which seems extremely long. I notice from some of the comments that tyre tread came to a similar conclusion. Again apologies for the repetition but if the following could be clarified it would be very appreciated -
1. From the boot what route did the positive cable to the starter motor take?
2. What route did the negative cable take, was the original earth point at the front of the transmission tunnel used and if not what point was used for earthing.
3. There are smaller twin constant live feed cables from the battery to the back of the fuse box (on my car these reach an in-line fuse block just before the fuse box) - what route did these take and was the cable size also increased.
Any advice or photos would be great to put my mind at rest,
Thanks
Richard
2) Negative was farther to the chassis end as per pic.
I've relocated my fuse box to the passenger cubby hole, so from there the two live feeds run under the rear shelf carpet and through the bulkhead.
Finished result (with a temp rubber strap, now replaced with a metal bracket).
HTH.
R
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