PAS pinion seal replacement.
PAS pinion seal replacement.
Author
Discussion

Alun450

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

172 months

Friday 16th May 2014
quotequote all
After hearing of Derek's friend being taken so suddenly this seems like no big deal all of a sudden.

My PS rack is leaking from the pinion seal.
I've removed the rack and was wondering if it's a job I can do?
Has anyone done this repair, some pictures would be good.
I see Racing Green do the pinion seal (O ring)
Is it just better to get the rack re conditioned, I'd rather leave it alone as there's nothing else wrong with it.
In the photo you should just see it weeping out.



WinstonWolf

72,863 posts

262 months

Friday 16th May 2014
quotequote all
Do the Scooby conversion? I've had four rebuilds, I wouldn't bother resurrecting the TVR rack again personally.

Alun450

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

172 months

Friday 16th May 2014
quotequote all
Maybe you've got a point there. Four re builds, that's why I'd rather do it myself. Which Scooby rack is the one to use, what year etc. sounds like a good plan.
My rack is fine other than the pinion seal, I'd like to try and repair it before giving in.
Any advice is always warmly welcomed. Al

estutjaweh

328 posts

178 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
I replaced the pinion seal on mine last year with the rack in situ (and lying on the ground). It was a bh to do but only due to access issues and I was too lazy to remove the rack. If your rack is already out, then I'd just replace the seal.

You will find a very thin washer/shim behind the securing circlip when trying to access the seal. This shim was completely warped on mine so I had to fashion a new one. Other than that it was plain sailing.

Alun450

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

172 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
I haven't the foggiest idea. My rack is off the car so sounds easy!
Estutjaweh if you have time give me an idea where to start. The plastic cover, how to remove etc.
regards Al.



Those Allen bolts look very rusty and tight, will I need to remove them.
Thanks in advance Alun

v8ndy

149 posts

262 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
Its a doddle job made even easier with the rack off, pull of the white cap and you`ll see its just a straight forward oil seal which can be easily leavered out with a small screwdriver. Nip along to your local bearing shop and they`ll probably have one on the shelf for around the pricey sum of 50p

Alun450

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

172 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
Wow that sounds more like it V8ndy, so just prise off the cap and I should find the culprit?
I'm not at all confident to touch it! I'll look at it for another hr first!

Alun450

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

172 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all

So there's the circlip and seal below it, I can get one very easily. Rather rusty looking, my question now is
Will the bottom seal be leaking up to this seal?
How realistic is it to replace both pinion seals!
Anyone had a go at doing both! I'd hate to re assemble to find it still leaks.

WinstonWolf

72,863 posts

262 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
Clinically clean before you dismantle. You know circlips have a right and a wrong way to go back in?

estutjaweh

328 posts

178 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
...there is a bottom pinion seal too?? Didn't know that. I only replaced the top seal and that thin shim under it.

My rack didn't/doesn't have the dust cap either which now worry's me slightly. Are these available to purchase anywhere? If not...could you mail me the measurements of your cap before replacing it and I'll knock one up at work.

estutjaweh

328 posts

178 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
...there is a bottom pinion seal too?? Didn't know that. I only replaced the top seal and that thin shim under it.

My rack didn't/doesn't have the dust cap either which now worry's me slightly. Are these available to purchase anywhere? If not...could you mail me the measurements of your cap before replacing it and I'll knock one up at work.

Alun450

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

172 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
It's 50 mm outside dia
The wall is about 2mm thick. It's also splined to slide onto shaft. Hope this pic helps.

Alun450

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

172 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
For you guys who might have to do this seal repair.
So
1 remove dust cover( white plastic)
2 remove internal circlip
3 remove very thin shim
4 remove oil seal
I used a small screw driver to prise up the oil seal.
Push the driver into the inner section of the seal and lever up and away. Do not scratch or hit the inner wall of the rack where the seal seats!

So now I just have to replace the seal and a shim.

I have no idea if it will seal again but if it works and I save 3 to 4 hundred quid it's got to be worth a try!
Yesterday I was just told send it away and pay the Tvr tax bracket! Wish me luck,
Thanks lads another Tvr guy hopefully saved by the knowledge shared. Many thanks, Alun




Alun450

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

172 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
Winstonwolf, yes I've got you, a rounded edge and a sharpe edge, like washers I've used if I'm correct!
When I removed circlip I observed it carefully thanks to your warning. Many thanks.

WinstonWolf

72,863 posts

262 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
NP smile if you take one out again look carefully at the holes, they're tapered. The smallest part of the taper always faces the direction of extraction as it makes it easier for the pliers to get a purchase.

estutjaweh

328 posts

178 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
Alun450 said:
It's 50 mm outside dia
The wall is about 2mm thick. It's also splined to slide onto shaft. Hope this pic helps.
Awesome - Thanks.

Alun450

Original Poster:

12,424 posts

172 months

Saturday 17th May 2014
quotequote all
It's amazing the things I learn on here everyday.