OMG OMG OMG OMG NOOOOO!!!! PANIC!!!
OMG OMG OMG OMG NOOOOO!!!! PANIC!!!
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parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
Well not really, but I'll double check with you.

Stalled it from cold just 20 minutes ago, and noticed when I continued that the red light was on (alternator/battery).

Nursed 'her' (omg beard and pipe next) back home, lifted the bonnet up, and checked the fanbelt which was my first thought. I could hear a whine with the revs as I was driving home.

So, this is what I found on the alternator. Bear in mind its peeing down outside now.



So it looks like a wire has come off the alternator. I wanted to double check with everyone that I should just pop it back on and squeeze it tight. Agree?

If thats the problem, then tomorrow I'll pull them all off (one by one don't want to forget what goes where heh heh), clean them with wire wool, and push them back on, tightening with pliers.

sgrimshaw

7,585 posts

279 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
Time to call the AA

FourWheelDrift

92,248 posts

313 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
You might want to think about getting a battery charger on too if you drove some way with no alternator recharging it.

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
I have an appointment tomorrow morning, to restitch my window - typical

hmm, it didn't want to go on, the cable to it is a bit too short. Which makes me think that the loose connector should be plugged in somewhere else.

There are a couple of others, one of them goes into the body of the alternator, through a vent on the back. I'm thinking this little one is supposed to do the same?

Difficult to see in this light, but I took some better piccies.



I know its a big ask, but would someone mind just having a look under their bonnet to see if they have a similar wire, and where it goes?

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all

monkey boy

79 posts

262 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
POD, Just looked under my bonnet and if its the terminal marked "W" its not connected on mine, but there is a spare supressor lead close by. This has never been connected even after the diodes were changed by an auto electrician. The only terminations on mine are "B" has two thick brown cables, "D" one thin brown cable, and a thin black cable going to the casing/ earth. Hopes this helps.

PS, the supressor lead is a fraction too short to reach comfortably.

>> Edited by monkey boy on Wednesday 30th March 21:45

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
hmmm, that landrover page does say that there is a spare connector for another circuit.

Hmmmmm

*goes back to look again*

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
Theres plenty of threads on the W terminal.

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
Right I've checked every electrical connection I can see. Do you think the 100Amp fuse may have gone?

If so, I have a 20 mile drive tomorrow to get the hood repaired in Cheshire. I could then drive to Christopher Neill's which is only a couple of miles from my destination.

Do you reckon its safe to do this?

monkey boy

79 posts

262 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
Don't forget some cars have an in-line fuse on the two thick brown wires thats prone to poor connections/ blowing. If you have a multimeter you should have over 12 vdc between the "B+" terminal and earth (if not suspect that fuse) and on starting the engine it should go up to 13.8 and 14.2 vdc if its charging. If you dont have a meter, turn on you dipped headlights then start the car. they should momentarily dim as the enging turns over then recover to full brightness on starting ( brighter than they were when first switched on as the voltage should now be higher than your partially dischaged battery).

2 Smokin Barrels

32,000 posts

264 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
You say you stalled it? (Difficult in a TVR I know). I once did this and the connector from the big lead from the back of the starter motor snapped. Once I'd bump started it the engine ran, but the battery light was on. (But presumably you restarted on the key...so probably not this!)

>> Edited by 2 Smokin Barrels on Wednesday 30th March 22:01

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
I have a meter, but I checked the headlights and they momentarily dim, and then come back to full brightness once the engine starts (without hesitation I might add).

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
2 Smokin Barrels said:
You say you stalled it? (Difficult in a TVR I know). I once did this and the connector from the big lead from the back of the starter motor snapped. Once I'd bump started it the engine ran, but the battery light was on. (But presumably you restarted on the key...so probably not this!)

>> Edited by 2 Smokin Barrels on Wednesday 30th March 22:01


Well I didn't stall it, what happened was I saw someone heading towards me, stopped, and the engine cut out. Its done that before when cold, so I just started it back up and carried on (and then noticed the red led).

monkey boy

79 posts

262 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
On a Ford i once had red light stayed on for months even though it was charging ok. Check for the 13.8- 14.2 vdc between the"B+" and earth with the engine running if you have it you have a good chance of getting to the garage tomorrow.

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
Right.

Voltage between B+ and Earth with ignition off = 12V

Voltage between B+ and Earth with ignition on = 12V


Where's this fuse then?

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
Other thing is, the roads are pissed wet through right now. Could be that water has got into the 100A fuse assembly perhaps? I've probably driven it 20-30 miles today in the wet, although I steer clear of the big puddles.

Hopefully that means I'll have enough juice tomorrow morning to get it to the dealer to check it over.

>> Edited by parrot of doom on Wednesday 30th March 22:33

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
oh one more thing - the fusebox is a bit loose. I couldn't see any water in there though.

Is the 100A fuse next to the oil sump drivers side? I'll get up very early tomorrow, jack it up, and quickly have a look.

I must get some axle stands......

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
parrot of doom said:
Right.

Voltage between B+ and Earth with ignition off = 12V

Voltage between B+ and Earth with ignition on = 12V


He said test with engine running! for 13.8ish V

sam_strachan

79 posts

311 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
Parrot, sympathies mate. Had similar problem myself recently. In the event that it's the fuse (you'll see easily enough if it is), then you can always try connecting the two bits of wire directly as a temporary fix to get you where you're going - driving without it is a bit scary as it misfires and all sorts!

See here for more detail: www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=154139&f=6&h=0

Let us know how you get on.

Edited: Bible (2nd Ed) page 238 gives a good pic of what you're looking for with the fuse.

>> Edited by sam_strachan on Wednesday 30th March 23:16

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Wednesday 30th March 2005
quotequote all
spend said:

parrot of doom said:
Right.

Voltage between B+ and Earth with ignition off = 12V

Voltage between B+ and Earth with ignition on = 12V



He said test with engine running! for 13.8ish V


Sorry, was with the engine running