Clutch Master Cylinder seal
Discussion
Just to add to my list of things to do....
I've now found my clutch cylinder is leaking into the footwell 'causing my carpet to be soaked in clutch fluid :irked:
Is it easy enough to replace the seals, if so how do I do it and what part do I need? or how do I tell if the whole clutch cylinder needs replacing and would this be easier anyhow? :confused:
NB Its a 97 Chim 500
I've now found my clutch cylinder is leaking into the footwell 'causing my carpet to be soaked in clutch fluid :irked:
Is it easy enough to replace the seals, if so how do I do it and what part do I need? or how do I tell if the whole clutch cylinder needs replacing and would this be easier anyhow? :confused:
NB Its a 97 Chim 500
As i said on that link phone merlin motorsport. Good price for the whole unit.
I dont recomend doing just the seals at that price because the shaft could be damaged or the internal bore of the master cylinder.
Quite an easy job. You could do with a mate to help you. Ten times easier.
Bry.
I dont recomend doing just the seals at that price because the shaft could be damaged or the internal bore of the master cylinder.
Quite an easy job. You could do with a mate to help you. Ten times easier.
Bry.
I agree,
It's quite a tricky job, requiring some dexterity and involving knuckle scraping, plus you have to reseal the plate on the inner wing or you'll be getting wet feet from rain instead. Change the whole unit instead of the seal - you don't want to be doing this job regularly!
Matt
It's quite a tricky job, requiring some dexterity and involving knuckle scraping, plus you have to reseal the plate on the inner wing or you'll be getting wet feet from rain instead. Change the whole unit instead of the seal - you don't want to be doing this job regularly!
Matt
Just spoken to a TVR dealer and he said the Cylinder will be £61.50 + VAT.
He also said that the part is unique to TVR and you CAN'T buy it from anywhere else! He reckons "whatever they say on the internet, they are wrong!"
Is he right, or just trying to squeeze some more money out of me?
He also said that the part is unique to TVR and you CAN'T buy it from anywhere else! He reckons "whatever they say on the internet, they are wrong!"
Is he right, or just trying to squeeze some more money out of me?
OK, I did my master cylinder seals last night - thought I'd share it with you in case anyone does the same or does a search.
First of all, I don't know why you'd buy the whole Master Cylinder (as most people seem to do) I know its not much money (£60ish), but the potential for getting a different fitting etc. is high and I can't see much that can go wrong with the cylinder apart form the seals! I bought the seal kit (Girling SP2102) for about £10.
I took the whole cylinder out, fitted the new seals and then put it all back! But if I knew how the cylinder came apart, I would have done it in-situ and saved a load of hassle!
First remove the inspection cover on the inner wing, so you can get to the master cylinder.
Jack up the car and put on stands (you cannot get to the bleed nipple without raising the car!) - the trolley jack I used only just fitted under the car!!!
Put an EZ bleed kit on the bleed nipple of the slave cylinder (located next to the gear box) Needed an 11mm spanner to loosen.
Pumped the peddle a couple of times to drain the fluid.
Took off the clevis pin - this is done from the drivers footwell and connects the clutch pedal to the rod that goes into the clutch cylinder. The pin "clips" around the rod and needs to be pulled down before it can be pulled out sideways! The bible says this can be tricky, but it isn't really - not compared to one of the bolts you have to take out in a bit!
Then I disconnected the copper hydraulic pipe that goes to the top of the master cylinder (13mm spanner) pretty easy to do, but my pipe wouldn't come out because the end of the pipe gets "flared" when it is tightened and doesn't want to come past the screw thread - once you know it is free, you need to "persuede" it out!!
The only things left now are the 2 bolts holding the cylinder (top and bottom). I did this job by myself ('cause I've got no mates!) but I would seriously get someone here at this stage to help (even if its the misses - mine was out!) The bolts are 13mm but need holding one side while you undo the other - hence the need for an extra person (I managed to jam a spanner in place on one side - packed with newspaper to keep it in place, then undid the other side).
The top bolt isn't too bad, but the big baddie to all this, is the bolt at the bottom! You should think how you are going to get this off before you even start the job 'cause if you havn't got the tools then you will be putting it all back together and taking it to the garage! I used a 1/4" socket with just the right size extension bar (a 1/2" socket or wrong length extension won't do it).
Once you got this bad boy out the cylinder can be removed and seals changed!
Remove the big rubber grommet thing where the rod goes into the cylinder, then theres a circular clip which needs to be squeezed together with long nose pliers. Once this is out the push rod comes away and you are looking at the plunger!
If you push the plunger in quickly and let go, it will spring out, take this to the kitchen table and you can work out for yourself how to change the 2 rubber seals (or send me a PM).
Stick it all back together, reverse the procedure for taking out the cylinder and Bob's your uncle.
As I said earlier, if I did it again, I would try to do it in-situ. From the footwell, you should be able to remove the big rubber grommet and I don't think it would be too difficult to do the circular clip - after that it would be a piece of cake and save you form that nasty bottom bolt - incidently I dropped my 1/4" ratchet down the inside of the inner wing and that took me 20 minutes to get back!!
Whole job took about 3 hours!
Wasn't quite as bad as I was begining to think it could be.
NB If anyone wants to give me thier old master cylinders, I'll recondition them and pass them on - provide a service for the TVR owners out there!
First of all, I don't know why you'd buy the whole Master Cylinder (as most people seem to do) I know its not much money (£60ish), but the potential for getting a different fitting etc. is high and I can't see much that can go wrong with the cylinder apart form the seals! I bought the seal kit (Girling SP2102) for about £10.
I took the whole cylinder out, fitted the new seals and then put it all back! But if I knew how the cylinder came apart, I would have done it in-situ and saved a load of hassle!
First remove the inspection cover on the inner wing, so you can get to the master cylinder.
Jack up the car and put on stands (you cannot get to the bleed nipple without raising the car!) - the trolley jack I used only just fitted under the car!!!
Put an EZ bleed kit on the bleed nipple of the slave cylinder (located next to the gear box) Needed an 11mm spanner to loosen.
Pumped the peddle a couple of times to drain the fluid.
Took off the clevis pin - this is done from the drivers footwell and connects the clutch pedal to the rod that goes into the clutch cylinder. The pin "clips" around the rod and needs to be pulled down before it can be pulled out sideways! The bible says this can be tricky, but it isn't really - not compared to one of the bolts you have to take out in a bit!
Then I disconnected the copper hydraulic pipe that goes to the top of the master cylinder (13mm spanner) pretty easy to do, but my pipe wouldn't come out because the end of the pipe gets "flared" when it is tightened and doesn't want to come past the screw thread - once you know it is free, you need to "persuede" it out!!
The only things left now are the 2 bolts holding the cylinder (top and bottom). I did this job by myself ('cause I've got no mates!) but I would seriously get someone here at this stage to help (even if its the misses - mine was out!) The bolts are 13mm but need holding one side while you undo the other - hence the need for an extra person (I managed to jam a spanner in place on one side - packed with newspaper to keep it in place, then undid the other side).
The top bolt isn't too bad, but the big baddie to all this, is the bolt at the bottom! You should think how you are going to get this off before you even start the job 'cause if you havn't got the tools then you will be putting it all back together and taking it to the garage! I used a 1/4" socket with just the right size extension bar (a 1/2" socket or wrong length extension won't do it).
Once you got this bad boy out the cylinder can be removed and seals changed!
Remove the big rubber grommet thing where the rod goes into the cylinder, then theres a circular clip which needs to be squeezed together with long nose pliers. Once this is out the push rod comes away and you are looking at the plunger!
If you push the plunger in quickly and let go, it will spring out, take this to the kitchen table and you can work out for yourself how to change the 2 rubber seals (or send me a PM).
Stick it all back together, reverse the procedure for taking out the cylinder and Bob's your uncle.
As I said earlier, if I did it again, I would try to do it in-situ. From the footwell, you should be able to remove the big rubber grommet and I don't think it would be too difficult to do the circular clip - after that it would be a piece of cake and save you form that nasty bottom bolt - incidently I dropped my 1/4" ratchet down the inside of the inner wing and that took me 20 minutes to get back!!
Whole job took about 3 hours!
Wasn't quite as bad as I was begining to think it could be.
NB If anyone wants to give me thier old master cylinders, I'll recondition them and pass them on - provide a service for the TVR owners out there!
ian187 said:
First of all, I don't know why you'd buy the whole Master Cylinder (as most people seem to do)
Because when you change the seals on alloy cylinders they never last as long as the originals and is it worth it to save £25 odd?
On cast iron cylinders like the slave cylinder bore wear is not such an issue so it is easier to get away with it.
I also changed the seal on the slave cylinder(not leaking but worn) at the same time saving an extra job and hopefully that will be that for a while.
if the master cylinder is the same as the 350I and S1 etc its off a Landrover defender 90 etc contact DLS landrover spares 01629822185 and for the pricely sum of £14.50 they will deliver you a New One save resealing and further problems why make work for your self i learned the hard way lol
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