Anti-roll bar drop links
Discussion
Have just fitted that nice Mr Heath's rose jointed drop links at the front. The rubber bushed one's were not in good shape when removed. The improvement in handling is significant - I don't think the the AR bar was doing anything much with the originals.
Will now fit a rear set - only problems is which colour to choose......
Jeff
Will now fit a rear set - only problems is which colour to choose......
Jeff
Jon
They come with instructions. Not difficult to fit but a bit fiddly to get it right. Make sure the car is on a flat level surface and both sides supported to same height on proper supports. Suspension must be at full drop. If you do that then the old ones should come out OK but you may have to juggle the steering to get the hub in right position and put a VERY light upward movement on the bottom of hub with scissor jack to get the angles right. The old ones should then wriggle out. take load of hub before fitting new ones. You may have to experiment with the spacers and fitting to get the geometry right with the new ones, which requires some patience - there is variation from side to side (and probably car to car). If in any doubt take it to someone who knows about these things - I had a second pair of experienced eyes look at my work. Make sure you check for full and free movement after fitting.
Good luck - it was worth the effort.
Jeff
They come with instructions. Not difficult to fit but a bit fiddly to get it right. Make sure the car is on a flat level surface and both sides supported to same height on proper supports. Suspension must be at full drop. If you do that then the old ones should come out OK but you may have to juggle the steering to get the hub in right position and put a VERY light upward movement on the bottom of hub with scissor jack to get the angles right. The old ones should then wriggle out. take load of hub before fitting new ones. You may have to experiment with the spacers and fitting to get the geometry right with the new ones, which requires some patience - there is variation from side to side (and probably car to car). If in any doubt take it to someone who knows about these things - I had a second pair of experienced eyes look at my work. Make sure you check for full and free movement after fitting.
Good luck - it was worth the effort.
Jeff
I've just fitted these and have initially noticed barely any difference, however, the existing joint rubbers were still in good nick so perhaps teh difference was marginal. I guess teh next track day will confirm. They do allow softer damper settings if you upgrade these units for adjustables later.
I had them fitted by a TVR specialist & he said they were difficult & took 2 hours!
I had them fitted by a TVR specialist & he said they were difficult & took 2 hours!
All of the fitting problems have been caused by not reading the fitting instructions and trying to do one side at a time. it is ESSENTIAL to raise both sides off the ground as per the instructions and to remove the olds ones first. If this is not done the ARB is loaded and it is a real struggle to fit them as the bar is effectively trying to stop the body roll caused by the one side being higher than the other. It also makes any adjustment hard as well.
As for two hours and they are difficult to fit.... hmmmm. Two hours for front and back if the originals are stubborn to remove is not a bad time though. Can't do anything about problems removing the old ones or variations in the roll bar/wishbone position which is why they needs adjusting to get the best position. This came up when was testing the prototypes on different cars down at Tower View. BTW The record for a pair of fronts is 15 minutes.... It was exceptional but it was unbolt the originals and bolt on the new.
I fitted Snorky's because his specialist claimed that the fronts didn't fit after two hours trying. Took me around an hour working with a trolley jack and a couple of axle stands. One old link was difficult to remove and several cups of coffeee were also consumed during the time. The drop links went straight on. With a ramp, air tools etc I could have done it in half the time.
As for two hours and they are difficult to fit.... hmmmm. Two hours for front and back if the originals are stubborn to remove is not a bad time though. Can't do anything about problems removing the old ones or variations in the roll bar/wishbone position which is why they needs adjusting to get the best position. This came up when was testing the prototypes on different cars down at Tower View. BTW The record for a pair of fronts is 15 minutes.... It was exceptional but it was unbolt the originals and bolt on the new.
I fitted Snorky's because his specialist claimed that the fronts didn't fit after two hours trying. Took me around an hour working with a trolley jack and a couple of axle stands. One old link was difficult to remove and several cups of coffeee were also consumed during the time. The drop links went straight on. With a ramp, air tools etc I could have done it in half the time.
jellison said:
Presume they only fit std size bar? - thinking of getting a thinker one for it.
Either get the new ARB ends sized to fit the drop links, or make your own drop links to suit them. Either approach should be trivially simple to somebody who can handle an engine transplant.
Fitted both front and rears (in blue
) a couple of weeks ago, the difficulty I found was removing the old front drop links, the threads ended up shearing 
The handling has transformed, it's a lot quieter! oh and it has a lot sharper, flatter turn in. Neadless the say the old drop link bushes did look a bit shot
Oh I also had to explain the dents put in the new tarmac drive from the axle stands and trolley jack to the g/f
Next...some new shocks...
Rich
) a couple of weeks ago, the difficulty I found was removing the old front drop links, the threads ended up shearing The handling has transformed, it's a lot quieter! oh and it has a lot sharper, flatter turn in. Neadless the say the old drop link bushes did look a bit shot
Oh I also had to explain the dents put in the new tarmac drive from the axle stands and trolley jack to the g/f
Next...some new shocks...
Rich
jellison said:
Presume they only fit std size bar? - thinking of getting a thinker one for it.
Not necessarily. I have an uprated front bar & Steve's drop links (*). The bar was fabricated to fit, though.
(* The whole thing's solidly mounted now. The handling's transformed, but there's a lot more road noise.)
(BTW, what's a "thinker" roll bar?)
zumbruk said:I have 12 fingers - (freak of Nature!) - you mean thinker front bar but then reduced to go through SH's rod ends rose joint holes?!
Presume they only fit std size bar? - thinking of getting a thinker one for it.
Not necessarily. I have an uprated front bar & Steve's drop links (*). The bar was fabricated to fit, though.
(* The whole thing's solidly mounted now. The handling's transformed, but there's a lot more road noise.)
(BTW, what's a "thinker" roll bar?)
I do a variety of designs to fit most TVRs. Some have a rose joint that slides over the end of the roll bar (Wedges, S series) and some that bolt onto the side (Griff, Chimaera etc) and even some for the old M series that bolt into the end of the ARB. It all depends on the application.
Have now fitted the rear set to complement the fronts. Fitting was easier and the old links came away with no problem. The new ones went in neatly however care must be taken when tightening to ensure the rose joints are properly aligned to allow optimum movement.
The improvement in overall handling is significant and the car now corners flatter than my first girlfiend's chest. Much more controllable and predictable powering through and out of a corner, and markedly better through the lanes. Mind you, the old links were completely knackered and doing little if any work. If you want to go faster then the old adage about investing in brake and supension upgrades first is a very good one!
jeff
The improvement in overall handling is significant and the car now corners flatter than my first girlfiend's chest. Much more controllable and predictable powering through and out of a corner, and markedly better through the lanes. Mind you, the old links were completely knackered and doing little if any work. If you want to go faster then the old adage about investing in brake and supension upgrades first is a very good one!
jeff
tacoma said:You have ARB's - Anti Roll Bars. They are there to stop the car rolling excessively in corners. The problem with the TVR ones is they are mounted via rubber bushes. The drop links (which attach the ARB to the suspension wishbone) can and do snap. Steve's replacement drop links are located by rose joints which allow much freer movement, and make sure the ARB does its job properly. There's probably a more technical explanation on his website!
I promised myself when i bought her that i would never be afraid or embarrassed to ask so...
Why do I need ARBs and what else should i think about doing to the car?
Thanks
m
victormeldrew said:
There's probably a more technical explanation on his website!
Steve's drop links connect the ARB rigidly to the suspension instead of just being vaguely connected by the original squishy rubber ones. Being rigidly connected means they counteract the slightest body roll straight away instead of waiting until the car is scraping the door handles.
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