Which tweaks to up power?

[nickd01]

Hi,

I'm wondering which tweaks people go for when wanting a litle more grunt out of their cars? Whilst I'm still new to mine, in a few months I'm sure I might want to tweak a few bits to get a bit more power out - but whilst maintaining drivability and some(!) reasonble fuel consumption.

Is there a recomended order of tweaks to go? Is it realistic to expect around 300 bhp out of a 4.5? Is it worth going to a "specialist" or should I see if Fernies (With their reduced labour rates) can help me?

Thanks

Nick

[pupp]

Big gains are expensive and involved but there are certainly relatively easy things to improve things. Making sure things like ignition/ injection and cam function are in good order to start with is important (and often overlooked as Rv8 are fairly soft feeling motors and don't always give away that they're running 'off'), then maybe look at the induction side as a first step. Loads of threads if you search.

[v8sag]

For the amount you would pay for 50hp of upgrades, you could have a fantastic handling car and leftovers for brake and maybe wheel upgrades.
I guarentee if you went the handling route before power upgrades you would run rings around a 50hp uprated similar car.
When your ready to go further strap a 50 to 150hp nitrous kit on, for power when you need it.
Well,thats what I did..

[nickd01]

v8sag said:

For the amount you would pay for 50hp of upgrades, you could have a fantastic handling car and leftovers for brake and maybe wheel upgrades. I guarentee if you went the handling route before power upgrades you would run rings around a 50hp uprated similar car. When your ready to go further strap a 50 to 150hp nitrous kit on, for power when you need it. Well,thats what I did..

Wise words; I've always heard this is the best route to follow. I guess it's just because I've had so much fun with the "loud" pedal I fancied a bit more!

I've seen the debate on the various shocks and damper options; would you be able to throw a few suggestions on what brake upgrades are available to me? (I'll do a search as well!)

[v8sag]

nickd01 said:

v8sag said: For the amount you would pay for 50hp of upgrades, you could have a fantastic handling car and leftovers for brake and maybe wheel upgrades. I guarentee if you went the handling route before power upgrades you would run rings around a 50hp uprated similar car. When your ready to go further strap a 50 to 150hp nitrous kit on, for power when you need it. Well,thats what I did.. I've seen the debate on the various shocks and damper options; would you be able to throw a few suggestions on what brake upgrades are available to me? (I'll do a search as well!)

If you search some of my posts under "Chevtrev" you'll see what I did to the Chim,which was a bit of overkill unless you want it track orientated.
But from a outsiders point of view 10,000 miles away from the politcs,i'd say spend the extra couple of quid on the nitrons or equivalent base Ohlin's dampers.
For the brakes I can't remember the brand,but "trinitycall"s 4 pot brake upgrade "hi spec"? seemed good value for money and there's the "Tower View services" upgrade(although they did send me some polybush'es to me,but could of told me they were made over the fecken river in Aus!),and don't forget the braided lines.
.

[chassis 33]

The engine should be the last thing you upgrade, and if you go for the full rebuild as opposed to the bolt on extras, the most expensive way to go faster.

Suspension wise the main players are Protech from Trackcar (Joolz), Gaz from the Gazman (Absolutely Shocks) which I use on the racer, or Nitron if you have the cash.

Brakes wise you get alot of debate as to whether they need upgrading. Trackcar says no, the standard 260mm rotors and floating clipers are fine. There is a 283mm rotor upgrade availible for the standard floating calipers, or you can go for various 4 pot caliper kits, I believe Tower View do one, my biased preference is the WMS kit, again because that's I have on my race, and will be fitting to my e30 trackday toy (different kit, same company) when I build that up.

At the end of the day will all the above speak to the relevant people directly then choose to go the route that you feel most confident with.

Regards
Iain

[steve-v8s]

Agree with the previous sentiment, work on the handling department first, for me the standard anchors are fine. If you plan to go down the tuning route then research it carefully have a budget and then about double it. Before you commit to a “specialist” have a good poke around their workshop and loiter outside to chat with some customers. Too many customer cars outside in pieces with all the “pieces” scattered around the place may not be a good indicator. Unwise to think that just because a place gets lots of mentions on here it is bound to be good. If you pick the wrong one then it turns into a nightmare, I know I have been there.

[jsr]

I had rose jointed adjustable Avo shocks fitted a few months back along with rose jointed anti roll bar drop links - the handling is considerably better and ultimately, the car is now much quicker.

Would recommend suspension upgrades before engine - you will be surprised by the improvments

[350matt]

300HP out of a 4.5 is possible but needs a fair amount of work mainly all of it to the intake, heads and camshaft, basically the std rover head is rather poor and the inlet manifold doesn't help matters either, as a first point of call I'd shorten all the trumpets inside the plenum by 15-20mm, fit an insulator plate and then get the fuelling and spark checked out. All in this should cost less than a few hundred quid, more if you need a re-map.

A lot of these cars aren't running right from the factory and most if not all do NOT make the factory power claims

Matt

[macdeb]

nickd01 said:

Hi, I'm wondering which tweaks people go for when wanting a litle more grunt out of their cars? Whilst I'm still new to mine, in a few months I'm sure I might want to tweak a few bits to get a bit more power out - but whilst maintaining drivability and some(!) reasonble fuel consumption. Is there a recomended order of tweaks to go? Is it realistic to expect around 300 bhp out of a 4.5? Is it worth going to a "specialist" or should I see if Fernies (With their reduced labour rates) can help me? Thanks Nick

Changed Shocks on mine with drop-links. Good. Also gone 'Nitrous'. Very Good. Keeps stock motor with stock manners, and then some when needed. A few on here have gone this route. If you do go 'Nitrous' then I would shell out a bit more for a 'progressive controller'. If any help needed feel free to mail me.

[GreenV8S]

Don't you find that insurers get a bit twitchy at the thought of Nitrous on a roadgoing car though?

[macdeb]

Yup, can be a problem, just need to spend some time on the phone and get hold of someone who knows something about cars and not films.
PS. Would like to eventually go your route sometime Peter when funds allow. Out of interest, how was insurance with that?

>> Edited by macdeb on Tuesday 30th May 18:50

>> Edited by macdeb on Tuesday 30th May 18:53

[M@H]

nickd01 said:

Hi, I'm wondering which tweaks people go for when wanting a litle more grunt out of their cars? Whilst I'm still new to mine, in a few months I'm sure I might want to tweak a few bits to get a bit more power out

Hi Nick.. how about some driver training..!! ..you're probably using 5-6/10ths of your car at the moment and when you think you're really using it you'll be using 7-8/10ths. Blow a bit of cash on some decent driver training and some track days, then you'll be able to decide which bits of the car you want to improve on (and I'll wager you'll start with brakes and suspension)

Cheers
Matt

[petros]

Gone the skimmed and ported heads, new cam route myself. Dom at power also blueprinted the engine, rebore, balanced crank etc.Approx 300 horses now, also had protechs all round though,with rose jointed drop links. Pulls like a train.Not that expensive either.Mainly thanks to young Ian at Middlewich's savvy.

[jsr]

350matt said:

300HP out of a 4.5 is possible but needs a fair amount of work mainly all of it to the intake, heads and camshaft, basically the std rover head is rather poor and the inlet manifold doesn't help matters either, as a first point of call I'd shorten all the trumpets inside the plenum by 15-20mm, fit an insulator plate and then get the fuelling and spark checked out. All in this should cost less than a few hundred quid, more if you need a re-map. A lot of these cars aren't running right from the factory and most if not all do NOT make the factory power claims Matt

Please excuse my ignorance, but what does shortening the trumpets achieve (more power?) and what does the insulator plate do? Don't know much about engine tuning but it sounds interesting!

[nickd01]

jsr said:

350matt said: 300HP out of a 4.5 is possible but needs a fair amount of work mainly all of it to the intake, heads and camshaft, basically the std rover head is rather poor and the inlet manifold doesn't help matters either, as a first point of call I'd shorten all the trumpets inside the plenum by 15-20mm, fit an insulator plate and then get the fuelling and spark checked out. All in this should cost less than a few hundred quid, more if you need a re-map. A lot of these cars aren't running right from the factory and most if not all do NOT make the factory power claims Matt Please excuse my ignorance, but what does shortening the trumpets achieve (more power?) and what does the insulator plate do? Don't know much about engine tuning but it sounds interesting!

I'd also be interested in knowing. Does it allow more air in? Just a little knowledge is helpful before turning up to somewhere asking for stuff and not knowing what I'm getting!

[slikk]

M@H said:

nickd01 said: Hi, I'm wondering which tweaks people go for when wanting a litle more grunt out of their cars? Whilst I'm still new to mine, in a few months I'm sure I might want to tweak a few bits to get a bit more power out Hi Nick.. how about some driver training..!! ..you're probably using 5-6/10ths of your car at the moment and when you think you're really using it you'll be using 7-8/10ths. Blow a bit of cash on some decent driver training and some track days, then you'll be able to decide which bits of the car you want to improve on (and I'll wager you'll start with brakes and suspension) Cheers Matt

Agreed. This will be the biggest return for your money initially.

kim

[350matt]

On the std rover inlet ( as used on all rover TVR's apart from the 5.0ltrs) the middle 4 trumpets are very close to the roof of the plenum, plus the intake length is tuned for about 5200Rpm, by shortening the trumpet it moves peak power up the rev range and will increase top-end power at the expense of low-end power or 'torque'.
However as moving the trumpets away from the roof unmasks them, it allows them to breathe better and this more than compensates for the low-end power loss. Best of all if you have access to a lathe it's virtually free apart from some sealant.

The insulator plate is fitted between the trumpet base (which unbolts from the main lower inlet manifold) and thermally insulates the rest of the inlet manifold from the engine which in turn lowers intake temperatures which in turn gives more power. If you've got detonation issues when its hot it should also help that as well.

www.magnaparva.com/catalog.html
I think their website is out of date as well as the price is a bit less than stated it should be 25 quid all in.

Matt

[jsr]

Thanks Matt!

I feel some engine work coming on!