Mod-Wise Hot Start Kit - Questions...
Discussion
Hi Gang
Having suffered my first hot start issue on Sunday, I've got myself the Mod-Wise Hot Start Kit (very friendly and prompt service, btw
).
Anyhoo, I'm just sat at my desk looking at the instruction diagram that came with the gubbins (which can also be found here) and I could do with a bit of help with a couple of the steps, if anyone has a spare few minutes...
Questions:
(a) Step 2: How do I use the probe to find the link which is not live with the engine running? I presume that I stick the spade end of the probe into the spare connector at the bottom right of the diagram and then touch the other end between the link wire and where it connects into - is that right?
(b) Step 3: What's the best way to connect the red positive? The instructions offer two alternatives - either connect to the battery positive or else to inside the fuse holder. The Mod-Wise wire looks like it has a useful connector on the end of it (nut and bolt to grip wire), if that's of any help.
Apologies for the numpty questions, I've never faffed on with the electrics before.
Thanks in advance guys and girls
Having suffered my first hot start issue on Sunday, I've got myself the Mod-Wise Hot Start Kit (very friendly and prompt service, btw
). Anyhoo, I'm just sat at my desk looking at the instruction diagram that came with the gubbins (which can also be found here) and I could do with a bit of help with a couple of the steps, if anyone has a spare few minutes...
Questions:
(a) Step 2: How do I use the probe to find the link which is not live with the engine running? I presume that I stick the spade end of the probe into the spare connector at the bottom right of the diagram and then touch the other end between the link wire and where it connects into - is that right?
(b) Step 3: What's the best way to connect the red positive? The instructions offer two alternatives - either connect to the battery positive or else to inside the fuse holder. The Mod-Wise wire looks like it has a useful connector on the end of it (nut and bolt to grip wire), if that's of any help.
Apologies for the numpty questions, I've never faffed on with the electrics before.
Thanks in advance guys and girls
Done this job a few weeks ago, for using the probe your description sounds about right. Once in the car it all becomes much clearer than looking at the instructions at your desk.
as for the live, I found connecting direct to the battery the easiest option. Don't know if it is the best but the simplest.
as for the live, I found connecting direct to the battery the easiest option. Don't know if it is the best but the simplest.
Having had my first hot-start 'incident' yesterday at a petrol station I finally got around to fitting the kit last night.
I'm planning (with David's permission) to stick a writeup with detailed instructions onto ChimaeraPages. However in the meantime here's how I did it...
1) Locate the earth feed on the empty green connector, the wire going into it is solid black. You can check it by inserting the spade connector on the kit into the slot and then attaching the clip on the LED to that. Touch the other end of the LED to the +ve side of the battery to confirm that you have the correct slot.
2) Start the engine and locate the pair of black wires (looped together) that aren't live when the engine is running (using the probe on the LED with the clip in place).
3) Stop the engine, cut that loop, strip the wires back and put one into each of the terminal-block connectors.
4) Attach the red wire to a +ve feed. I went for the battery terminal. I was worried that the hole in the 'O' connector wouldn't be big enough but it was fine.
5) Test. Make sure that the black spade connector is secure (you can remove the LED clamp now). If the starter motor doesn't engage switch around the wires in the terminal block.
6) Tidying up. I taped the wire to the +ve battery terminal to the existing wires to prevent them coming off during a battery change. I also put some tape around the terminal block to reduce the chance of a short. Finally I used some tape to secure the black earth wire into the green terminal. I'm tempted to put this wire straight to the battery too as I'm concerned that the spade might come out.
Hope this helps!
I'm planning (with David's permission) to stick a writeup with detailed instructions onto ChimaeraPages. However in the meantime here's how I did it...
1) Locate the earth feed on the empty green connector, the wire going into it is solid black. You can check it by inserting the spade connector on the kit into the slot and then attaching the clip on the LED to that. Touch the other end of the LED to the +ve side of the battery to confirm that you have the correct slot.
2) Start the engine and locate the pair of black wires (looped together) that aren't live when the engine is running (using the probe on the LED with the clip in place).
3) Stop the engine, cut that loop, strip the wires back and put one into each of the terminal-block connectors.
4) Attach the red wire to a +ve feed. I went for the battery terminal. I was worried that the hole in the 'O' connector wouldn't be big enough but it was fine.
5) Test. Make sure that the black spade connector is secure (you can remove the LED clamp now). If the starter motor doesn't engage switch around the wires in the terminal block.
6) Tidying up. I taped the wire to the +ve battery terminal to the existing wires to prevent them coming off during a battery change. I also put some tape around the terminal block to reduce the chance of a short. Finally I used some tape to secure the black earth wire into the green terminal. I'm tempted to put this wire straight to the battery too as I'm concerned that the spade might come out.
Hope this helps!
Scaramouch said:
Wicker Man said:
It's neater to take the live feed from the screw terminal in the fuse holder. One less loose bit for when you have to remove the battery.
Yep I agree thats what I did too,
and I found it easier than disconnecting the battery.
Thats what I did, took seconds to, pop open the fuse holder, unscrew, attach, screw up, close!Nuggs said:
Thanks for all the advice guys (and big thanks to theaxe for the very detailed post)- it's all starting to make sense now and any blanks will hopefully be filled in when I'm in the footwell at the weekend!
)- it's all starting to make sense now and any blanks will hopefully be filled in when I'm in the footwell at the weekend! You could always take it to your local car club meeting. There's bound to be someone who'll say 'I know how to do that'!
tonto said:
Nuggs said:
Thanks for all the advice guys (and big thanks to theaxe for the very detailed post)- it's all starting to make sense now and any blanks will hopefully be filled in when I'm in the footwell at the weekend!
)- it's all starting to make sense now and any blanks will hopefully be filled in when I'm in the footwell at the weekend! You could always take it to your local car club meeting. There's bound to be someone who'll say 'I know how to do that'!
Have you met any of the Sussex PHers?
(
Hello peeps
)I've put the info onto my site and added some pictures. Hope this helps!
Alex
Mod-wise Hot start kit installation
Alex
Mod-wise Hot start kit installation
Thanks for all your help guys. I fitted the mod this afternoon with little difficulty and the engine starts up et al.
HOWEVER...
When I was putting the wiring back behind the footwell carpet, the central locking and alarm kept arming. It happened a couple of times when I was pushing the wires back, but I couldn't pin it down to one set of wires or connection etc.
It's all back in now, but I'm slightly concerned that the immobiliser may arm while I'm out in the car
If it's of any use; I connected the +ive connector to the fuse holder and when I unscrewed the retaining bolt inside the cover, the connector came off and the central locking etc armed when I remade the connection.
It's also interesting that when I unlock the doors, the alarm light in the centre of the dash still flashes (I can start car with no problems though), where previously it would have gone out until the immobiliser kicked in again.
If anyone has any ideas, I'd be very grateful!
HOWEVER...
When I was putting the wiring back behind the footwell carpet, the central locking and alarm kept arming. It happened a couple of times when I was pushing the wires back, but I couldn't pin it down to one set of wires or connection etc.
It's all back in now, but I'm slightly concerned that the immobiliser may arm while I'm out in the car
If it's of any use; I connected the +ive connector to the fuse holder and when I unscrewed the retaining bolt inside the cover, the connector came off and the central locking etc armed when I remade the connection.
It's also interesting that when I unlock the doors, the alarm light in the centre of the dash still flashes (I can start car with no problems though), where previously it would have gone out until the immobiliser kicked in again.
If anyone has any ideas, I'd be very grateful!
UPDATE
I think I've sorted the problem. I re-visited the +ive connection within the fuse holder and could replicate the 'lock & arm' problem just by jiggling the wires.
The connection was a bit dodgy and so I've re-tightened it. Hopefully that should sort it - I'm just off out on a test drive, so I should know one way or another very shortly!
I think I've sorted the problem. I re-visited the +ive connection within the fuse holder and could replicate the 'lock & arm' problem just by jiggling the wires.
The connection was a bit dodgy and so I've re-tightened it. Hopefully that should sort it - I'm just off out on a test drive, so I should know one way or another very shortly!
cossie. said:
Nuggsy - what's a "hot start"? 
They say you learn something new everyday!
They say you learn something new everyday!It's where one's car refuses to start due to heat causing the starter motor solenoid to stick. Particularly upsetting when at a crowded petrol station that only moments before one had stunned by arriving in a big rumblemonster TVR
Have I set a new (unwanted) record?
Went out for a rumble on Sat 30mins down the road I decided to stop for some petrol - 2hrs later I was still there!!!!!!
Ended up calling the AA out and everything and then 10mins after calling the AA......BRRRMMMMMM, the bugger sparks into life again! In the immortal words of Hommer Simpson......DOH!!!
Have had the hot start issue before but that time it 'only' took about 30mins for it to clear....this has to be some sort of record?!
It was a very hot day though and the car was parked out in the sun - don't know what else could have caused it.
Mod Wise kit is to be fitted today, am hoping that will be the end of my problems and not a sign that I need a new starter motor!
What I can't figure out though is why did the previous owner(s) never have this problem and fixed it?
Went out for a rumble on Sat 30mins down the road I decided to stop for some petrol - 2hrs later I was still there!!!!!!
Ended up calling the AA out and everything and then 10mins after calling the AA......BRRRMMMMMM, the bugger sparks into life again! In the immortal words of Hommer Simpson......DOH!!!
Have had the hot start issue before but that time it 'only' took about 30mins for it to clear....this has to be some sort of record?!
It was a very hot day though and the car was parked out in the sun - don't know what else could have caused it.
Mod Wise kit is to be fitted today, am hoping that will be the end of my problems and not a sign that I need a new starter motor!
What I can't figure out though is why did the previous owner(s) never have this problem and fixed it?
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff