Looking to buy a Chimaera 450/500 - A Few Questions
Discussion
No TVR as yet- but still grinning after having one for a weekend 4 years ago - I am on the verge of taking the plunge. Am thinking about a Chimaera 450/500 and have looked at a few (private and dealer sales) and would be grateful for some advice first:
Is aircon of any real use (reliability?)?
Is it a plus or minus to have PAS?
Should the car be waxoyled?
Is it easy (cost?) to replace damaged veneer facia?
Are all handbrakes quite poor?
Can damaged/tired seats and carpets be easily replaced (expensive?)?
Is high mileage a problem (say 60K on a 98R) and if so - just resale or mechanically?
What are the mechanical issues I should be aware of for a car of 98 R age?
How easy/expensive is windscreen replacement?
I have a feeling (not sure why) that cars from 98 onwards are more reliable - is that true?
Is there any particular year that I should aim for given a budget of about 12K - 18K?
How important is full TVR Dealer Service history? Are independent specialists just as good?
Massively grateful for any other top tips!? Thank you.
Is aircon of any real use (reliability?)?
Is it a plus or minus to have PAS?
Should the car be waxoyled?
Is it easy (cost?) to replace damaged veneer facia?
Are all handbrakes quite poor?
Can damaged/tired seats and carpets be easily replaced (expensive?)?
Is high mileage a problem (say 60K on a 98R) and if so - just resale or mechanically?
What are the mechanical issues I should be aware of for a car of 98 R age?
How easy/expensive is windscreen replacement?
I have a feeling (not sure why) that cars from 98 onwards are more reliable - is that true?
Is there any particular year that I should aim for given a budget of about 12K - 18K?
How important is full TVR Dealer Service history? Are independent specialists just as good?
Massively grateful for any other top tips!? Thank you.
Edited by on Thursday 19th October 23:25
Is aircon of any real use (reliability?)
Depends on where you will drive. In this country, probably not. But Italy, south of France or Spain, then a distinct advantage.
Is it a plus or minus to have PAS?
Definitely a plus. I do not have it and have driven many that have. The feel is better without, but low speed manoeuvring is a bit of a pain. If I had the option, I’d go for it. That said, it is not an essential by any means.
Should the car be waxoyled?
Yes, annually preferably, or biannually at least. An annual check is essential. Many MoT testing stations allow you to look underneath.
Is it easy (cost?) to replace damaged veneer facia?
Easy but, depending on what finish you have, cost can be a bit of a shock.
Are all handbrakes quite poor?
It’s not so much poor as the angle it is set. It’s difficult to get any leverage. There’s ample to get through the MoT though. Steep hills can be exciting though.
Can damaged/tired seats and carpets be easily replaced (expensive?)?
Seats easy but expensive, carpet not so much of either.
Is high mileage a problem (say 60K on a 98R) and if so - just resale or mechanically?
The engines go on forever if well looked after. However, resale value depends to a ridiculous degree on mileage. I’d suggest you buy on condition but no one ever listens.
What are the mechanical issues I should be aware of for a car of 98 R age?
You should have none. Depending on mileage there may well be a new radiator in the wings, but they are not a massive amount.
How easy/expensive is windscreen replacement?
Very. Almost as difficult as replacing the battery.
I have a feeling (not sure why) that cars from 98 onwards are more reliable - is that true?
Engines improved over the years in reliability and strength. However, older engines are still very reliable.
Is there any particular year that I should aim for given a budget of about 12K - 18K?
Buy on condition. At that price you should find a first class one.
How important is full TVR Dealer Service history? Are independent specialists just as good?
Independants are just as good if reputable. A full service history is an essential if you want to resell at any time.
The 450 is said to be smoother that the 500 but I'm blowed if I can tell the difference. The cars are overall very reliable, especially when you consider they are hand-built. They eat tyres, though. If you drive them properly, that is.
Go and see quite a few. I saw eleven before buying. I liked the first I saw but, boy, am I glad I didn't go for it.
The one essential is a sound chassis. Get it checked by a professional.
Go to a TVR Regional meeting. Email me for one local to you. They will be only too pleased to advise you.
Derek
Depends on where you will drive. In this country, probably not. But Italy, south of France or Spain, then a distinct advantage.
Is it a plus or minus to have PAS?
Definitely a plus. I do not have it and have driven many that have. The feel is better without, but low speed manoeuvring is a bit of a pain. If I had the option, I’d go for it. That said, it is not an essential by any means.
Should the car be waxoyled?
Yes, annually preferably, or biannually at least. An annual check is essential. Many MoT testing stations allow you to look underneath.
Is it easy (cost?) to replace damaged veneer facia?
Easy but, depending on what finish you have, cost can be a bit of a shock.
Are all handbrakes quite poor?
It’s not so much poor as the angle it is set. It’s difficult to get any leverage. There’s ample to get through the MoT though. Steep hills can be exciting though.
Can damaged/tired seats and carpets be easily replaced (expensive?)?
Seats easy but expensive, carpet not so much of either.
Is high mileage a problem (say 60K on a 98R) and if so - just resale or mechanically?
The engines go on forever if well looked after. However, resale value depends to a ridiculous degree on mileage. I’d suggest you buy on condition but no one ever listens.
What are the mechanical issues I should be aware of for a car of 98 R age?
You should have none. Depending on mileage there may well be a new radiator in the wings, but they are not a massive amount.
How easy/expensive is windscreen replacement?
Very. Almost as difficult as replacing the battery.
I have a feeling (not sure why) that cars from 98 onwards are more reliable - is that true?
Engines improved over the years in reliability and strength. However, older engines are still very reliable.
Is there any particular year that I should aim for given a budget of about 12K - 18K?
Buy on condition. At that price you should find a first class one.
How important is full TVR Dealer Service history? Are independent specialists just as good?
Independants are just as good if reputable. A full service history is an essential if you want to resell at any time.
The 450 is said to be smoother that the 500 but I'm blowed if I can tell the difference. The cars are overall very reliable, especially when you consider they are hand-built. They eat tyres, though. If you drive them properly, that is.
Go and see quite a few. I saw eleven before buying. I liked the first I saw but, boy, am I glad I didn't go for it.
The one essential is a sound chassis. Get it checked by a professional.
Go to a TVR Regional meeting. Email me for one local to you. They will be only too pleased to advise you.
Derek
Edited by Derek Smith on Friday 20th October 00:01
owendobson said:
No TVR as yet- but still grinning after having one for a weekend 4 years ago - I am on the verge of taking the plunge. Am thinking about a Chimaera 450/500 and have looked at a few (private and dealer sales) and would be grateful for some advice first:
Is aircon of any real use (reliability?)?
I don't have it in mine and have no problems. I was in the South of France though this summer and did kind of wish for it then when in town. Nut out on the open roads I don't feel I'd need it.
Is it a plus or minus to have PAS?
IMHO a plus, it's not overly weighted and still quite heavy with and is a godsend in tight spots in town. Some drivers swear the cars are better for feel without though. Personal preference on that one.
Should the car be waxoyled?
Most definitely, the chassis is not galvanized and so will rust if not properly looked after. This should be done annually.
Is it easy (cost?) to replace damaged veneer facia?
A new facia is fiddly to fit but can be done at home. Stainless ones are around £120ish and there are companies that will re-veneer if you wish to stick with the wood. Not sure on the cost though.
Are all handbrakes quite poor?
No, mine works though I'd never trust it on a steep hill alone. Cerb handbrakes are a lot worse.
Can damaged/tired seats and carpets be easily replaced (expensive?)?
Seats can be re-trimmed and 'new' sets from breakers are around £4-500 a pair. Carpets can be sought and replaced either complete or in sections.
Is high mileage a problem (say 60K on a 98R) and if so - just resale or mechanically?
Condition is far more important than mileage. These cars are more reliable the more they're used. The Rover V8 has been about donkeys years and is a very proven strong engine so as long as the car has been well maintained I'd not worry too much about this.
What are the mechanical issues I should be aware of for a car of 98 R age?
Main check is for history and lots of it, ensure the car is warmed up properly before being 'used' and that all pressures/temps are good.
Check the condition of chassis and wishbones, look for signs of water ingress (common but not too much) etc.
How easy/expensive is windscreen replacement?
Do a search when it starts working again as this is definitely a job for those with experience of replacing TVR screens.
I have a feeling (not sure why) that cars from 98 onwards are more reliable - is that true?
Not as far as I know, providing it has been well maintained theres no reason a 2000 should be any more reliable than a 94. There are a number of changes to design etc around 97/98 though.
Is there any particular year that I should aim for given a budget of about 12K - 18K?
For that budget you have the choice of all years/models. My personal preference would be for a 2001 450 as I love the look of the faired in headlights and the Tuscan style seats that came as standard then.
How important is full TVR Dealer Service history? Are independent specialists just as good?
Indies are just as good, sometimes even better. Just be sure that its a respected indie and that service intervals have been adhered to (every 6k or 12 mths - whichever comes sooner)
Massively grateful for any other top tips!? Thank you.
Is aircon of any real use (reliability?)?
I don't have it in mine and have no problems. I was in the South of France though this summer and did kind of wish for it then when in town. Nut out on the open roads I don't feel I'd need it.
Is it a plus or minus to have PAS?
IMHO a plus, it's not overly weighted and still quite heavy with and is a godsend in tight spots in town. Some drivers swear the cars are better for feel without though. Personal preference on that one.
Should the car be waxoyled?
Most definitely, the chassis is not galvanized and so will rust if not properly looked after. This should be done annually.
Is it easy (cost?) to replace damaged veneer facia?
A new facia is fiddly to fit but can be done at home. Stainless ones are around £120ish and there are companies that will re-veneer if you wish to stick with the wood. Not sure on the cost though.
Are all handbrakes quite poor?
No, mine works though I'd never trust it on a steep hill alone. Cerb handbrakes are a lot worse.
Can damaged/tired seats and carpets be easily replaced (expensive?)?
Seats can be re-trimmed and 'new' sets from breakers are around £4-500 a pair. Carpets can be sought and replaced either complete or in sections.
Is high mileage a problem (say 60K on a 98R) and if so - just resale or mechanically?
Condition is far more important than mileage. These cars are more reliable the more they're used. The Rover V8 has been about donkeys years and is a very proven strong engine so as long as the car has been well maintained I'd not worry too much about this.
What are the mechanical issues I should be aware of for a car of 98 R age?
Main check is for history and lots of it, ensure the car is warmed up properly before being 'used' and that all pressures/temps are good.
Check the condition of chassis and wishbones, look for signs of water ingress (common but not too much) etc.
How easy/expensive is windscreen replacement?
Do a search when it starts working again as this is definitely a job for those with experience of replacing TVR screens.
I have a feeling (not sure why) that cars from 98 onwards are more reliable - is that true?
Not as far as I know, providing it has been well maintained theres no reason a 2000 should be any more reliable than a 94. There are a number of changes to design etc around 97/98 though.
Is there any particular year that I should aim for given a budget of about 12K - 18K?
For that budget you have the choice of all years/models. My personal preference would be for a 2001 450 as I love the look of the faired in headlights and the Tuscan style seats that came as standard then.
How important is full TVR Dealer Service history? Are independent specialists just as good?
Indies are just as good, sometimes even better. Just be sure that its a respected indie and that service intervals have been adhered to (every 6k or 12 mths - whichever comes sooner)
Massively grateful for any other top tips!? Thank you.
I'd second what Derek said.
I have Aircon and it has been of use once.. on a very wet day when the car was a bit steamy.. Cleared the windscreen very quickly.. but since then, never really use it.
I have non-PAS and i prefer it. But there are many who prefer PAS so that one is down to personal choice.. Non-PAS is pretty heavy at parking speeds.
On the mileage front.. Derek is spot on. The engines are not the most sophisticated in the world but last well if serviced properly. Personally i think a medium-high mileage engined car would probably give less trouble (other than servicable parts) than one thats been used occasionally and spent most of its time in a garage.
TVR's are less problematic if they are regularly used...
I've owned my '98 450 for a year and a half now and so far she has had 2 major scheduled services and the only non-routine expense has been a faulty alarm unit 2 weeks after buying her.
She has been the most reliable car i've owned in the past 5 or 6 years..
I have Aircon and it has been of use once.. on a very wet day when the car was a bit steamy.. Cleared the windscreen very quickly.. but since then, never really use it.
I have non-PAS and i prefer it. But there are many who prefer PAS so that one is down to personal choice.. Non-PAS is pretty heavy at parking speeds.
On the mileage front.. Derek is spot on. The engines are not the most sophisticated in the world but last well if serviced properly. Personally i think a medium-high mileage engined car would probably give less trouble (other than servicable parts) than one thats been used occasionally and spent most of its time in a garage.
TVR's are less problematic if they are regularly used...
I've owned my '98 450 for a year and a half now and so far she has had 2 major scheduled services and the only non-routine expense has been a faulty alarm unit 2 weeks after buying her.
She has been the most reliable car i've owned in the past 5 or 6 years..
Derek Smith said:
What are the mechanical issues I should be aware of for a car of 98 R age?
You should have none. Depending on mileage there may well be a new radiator in the wings, but they are not a massive amount.
You may have none or you may have enough to make you weep. Also when I needed a new radiator there wasn't one in my wings
Mine is my everyday car (Chim 450 '99 model) and she does anywhere up to 200 miles a day (work in Blackpool, Live in Manchester, OH is in Cheshire) and over the 20 months I have had her, the only thing that has gone wrong was the door solaniod.
She is nearly due for a camshaft change as I can hear the tapping but nothing major. Works all the time, doesnt even have the hot start problem or the water leaks.
Whereabouts are you based..? how far are you willing to travel to look at one (not selling mine just curious).
Claire
She is nearly due for a camshaft change as I can hear the tapping but nothing major. Works all the time, doesnt even have the hot start problem or the water leaks.
Whereabouts are you based..? how far are you willing to travel to look at one (not selling mine just curious).
Claire
The camshaft is meant to be changed between 40-60k miles, but that isnt a hard and fast rule. Just listen for any tapping noises or ask when/if the cam has been changed.
I bought my car on one thing - the chassis has been waxoyled from new.
I wasnt bothered about the colour/year/spec/engine size - I just wanted a tip top chassis.
I bought her pretty much sight unseen (saw it as I handed over the money) and didnt drive her till she was dropped off at my house. And yes it was the only one I saw.
it was gut feeling - always go with your gut feeling when reading the ads and upon seeing them.
You may end up looking at 100 before you find the one you want or it may be the 1st one you saw - you will just know.
Good luck in the hunt.
Claire
I bought my car on one thing - the chassis has been waxoyled from new.
I wasnt bothered about the colour/year/spec/engine size - I just wanted a tip top chassis.
I bought her pretty much sight unseen (saw it as I handed over the money) and didnt drive her till she was dropped off at my house. And yes it was the only one I saw.
it was gut feeling - always go with your gut feeling when reading the ads and upon seeing them.
You may end up looking at 100 before you find the one you want or it may be the 1st one you saw - you will just know.
Good luck in the hunt.
Claire
Thanks Claire, I think you are absolutely right - gut feeling counts for a lot. I am just not sure how reliable MY gut feelings have been to date! I thought I ought to try and apply a bit more science to this particular effort....and I am learning quickly, thanks to the willingness of everyone to share their knowledge. So, a bit of gut .. a bit of science and a bit of that luck you sent me and I stand a fair chance of getting it right...watch this space! Owen
Just sold my 5.0 98R with 57 000 miles (purchased at 48 000 miles) in my ownership I replaced the clutch the diff the exhaust manifolds were welded, new radiator, new front discs, suspension bushes and I was told that the cam would probably need doing soon, also tyres etc, check for a whining diff (approx £500 for taking out rebuilding and replacing)
colinrob said:
Just sold my 5.0 98R with 57 000 miles (purchased at 48 000 miles) in my ownership I replaced the clutch the diff the exhaust manifolds were welded, new radiator, new front discs, suspension bushes and I was told that the cam would probably need doing soon, also tyres etc, check for a whining diff (approx £500 for taking out rebuilding and replacing)
And therein lies what you may/may not be up against. Probably a good car (I've never seen it though) and within 9000 miles its needed a lot of cash thrown at it plus factor in a new cam £1000+ and it turns into a bit of a 'mare
owendobson said:
Is aircon of any real use (reliability?)?
Yes. If you happen to to find the right car with it fitted. We don't have it and wish we did. The heat soak into the cabin is fairly bad and humid rainy days in summer are a PITA. Most of the time, of course, here in the UK its fine without. Buy the right car. If it has a/c that's a bonus.
owendobson said:
Is it a plus or minus to have PAS?
Dunno. Ours has it. Manouvering is easy. If your Mrs will drive it PAS is definitely a good idea.
owendobson said:
Should the car be waxoyled?
Yes. The TVR chassis' rustproofing isn't the world's finest. The "outriggers" tend to rust through and are costly to replace should they become structurally damaged. The powdercoating simply flakes off and you get rusting. Waxoyl inhibits this and slows the process down to "acceptable" levels. I have heard of fastidious owners keeping their car's chassis in near new condition. Nearly all cars will not have been so lucky. Some surface rust is not a problem: given that it is subsequently dealt with.
owendobson said:
Is it easy (cost?) to replace damaged veneer facia?
Not cheap. But you should find one with no damage easily enough.
owendobson said:
Are all handbrakes quite poor?
Yes. Laughably bad. Its possible to get them through the MOT and they will hold the car on hill starts for you - but don't try it on anything steep! Mind you - the handbrake in my Porsche is barely any better.
owendobson said:
Can damaged/tired seats and carpets be easily replaced (expensive?)?
Not needed this, sorry.
owendobson said:
Is high mileage a problem (say 60K on a 98R) and if so - just resale or mechanically?
Our car is a 98S. Its done 50,000 miles (bar the free ones that come with the fact that the speedos stop working for a few miles every time the clock gets to '9999 they all do that, sir). This would be normal-ish. Don't think its a resale issue as most cars that haven't been garage queens will have done at least this.
owendobson said:
What are the mechanical issues I should be aware of for a car of 98 R age?
What won't there be! You may need all sorts of new gaskets, hoses and clips and these things wear out. The clutch may well be on the way out unless replaced recently.
owendobson said:
How easy/expensive is windscreen replacement?
Not needed this done, thank goodness. Pricey I expect. Insure against it.
owendobson said:
I have a feeling (not sure why) that cars from 98 onwards are more reliable - is that true?
Not in our experience.
owendobson said:
Is there any particular year that I should aim for given a budget of about 12K - 18K?
Nope. Buy on condition.
owendobson said:
How important is full TVR Dealer Service history? Are independent specialists just as good?
Of Faaaaar more importance is who looked after the car how aften. Look for a service book fully stamped up. Hopefully you should be able to see the invoices for the service work. If anything went wrong it should have been fixed immediately (and things will have gone wrong and been fixed) to prevent any "knock-on" problems occurring. Look at the old MOTs if available. You want evidence that the car has been looked after properly both with respect to mileage and age.
There again if, when you get to the owner's house, the have their own pit and talk happily about how they've done all their own servicing convincingly maybe that's OK too. If they don't look like the spanners type, though...
Here in Hampshire you are likely to see the following stamps:
Hawthorns - now no longer a TVR dealer. Were very good. Not in the TVR business now.
Fernhurst - now no longer a TVR dealer. Didn't use them. Good reputation.
Mole Valley - now no longer a TVR dealer. Didn't use them. Good reputation.
Racing Green - still a main dealer. We've used them a lot. Mostly happy.
"The Garage" (David Batty). Independent. We like David.
Hope any of the above helps. The Hants TVRCC meets on the first or second Thursday of the month at a pub in Hants somewhere. I suggest you join the club, go along to a meet, and ask some owners about their cars. You will also find lots of for sale ads in the club magazine as well as here on PH.
Any specific questions feel free to email me through my profile. I'm based in North Hampshire myself...
I would prefer a well cared for chassis with no waxoyl, so i can see any problems
I hate the stuff !!!!!!!!! Service history Indi or Dealer are ok...
Cat amongst pigeons now.... Dont overlook a car that has been looked after by an enthusiast/home mechanic. You will often find these cars have been looked after to an exceptionally high standard
Often having service work done on a much more regular basis, also with no awkward parts of the service schedule forgotten 
Well, I did it...I listened to all your excellent advice (and to the fella's at Racing Green & Fernhurst) and bought a W Reg 450 (today, 'up north')...10.45 pm and just arrived back in North Hants...never has the M1 at night (and even some of it in the rain) been so much fun...lorries, what lorries!
As sit here typing with one hand and flicking through the owners handbook with other - I see my other half giving me 'that look' and I know that life will never be quite the same again (I mean its no different to her and her horses, surely!)
Thanks again and I guess that's me signing off on this subject. Back soon with another I have no doubt...
Owen
As sit here typing with one hand and flicking through the owners handbook with other - I see my other half giving me 'that look' and I know that life will never be quite the same again (I mean its no different to her and her horses, surely!)
Thanks again and I guess that's me signing off on this subject. Back soon with another I have no doubt...
Owen
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