Dyno results - advice welcomed.
Discussion
Following on from CaptiV8ed's thread i though I would share some figures with you to gain some helpful advice. I went to the Rolling Road shoot out down at Richard Bros Rolling Road www.richardsbros.com/index.htm who I have to say were brilliant, the guys were mega helpful and i can thoroughly reccommend them! 
Anyway, I appear to have a problem with the Chim (98 500 standard apart from ACT piping and K&N) the peak power at the wheels was only 202bhp at only 4,500rpm but the peak torque was 290lbs at 3,600rpm??
The power comes in really strong until 4,500 when for some reason it dies off early, the guy on the rollers seems to think that the timing might be a few degrees out but limited time today prevented further investigation.
I've never stuck the Chimaera on the rollers before but now I have it would be nice to see if some simple rectifications can make the most of the beastie.
Just for reference four 500s went on the rollers today and the bhp at the wheels ranged from 196 to 228bhp. I am quite keen to get fettling now but I live in Devon so I would like to get some basics sorted before I have to make the three hour drive up to Austec for a proper set up.
Note, I have a decatted Y piece to go on and a set of de-catted manifolds with non-reversal cones on order with Tim from ACT before the next tune up.
Any thoughts or input would be most welcomed.
Ta, Corin.
Anyway, I appear to have a problem with the Chim (98 500 standard apart from ACT piping and K&N) the peak power at the wheels was only 202bhp at only 4,500rpm but the peak torque was 290lbs at 3,600rpm??
The power comes in really strong until 4,500 when for some reason it dies off early, the guy on the rollers seems to think that the timing might be a few degrees out but limited time today prevented further investigation.
I've never stuck the Chimaera on the rollers before but now I have it would be nice to see if some simple rectifications can make the most of the beastie.
Just for reference four 500s went on the rollers today and the bhp at the wheels ranged from 196 to 228bhp. I am quite keen to get fettling now but I live in Devon so I would like to get some basics sorted before I have to make the three hour drive up to Austec for a proper set up.
Note, I have a decatted Y piece to go on and a set of de-catted manifolds with non-reversal cones on order with Tim from ACT before the next tune up.
Any thoughts or input would be most welcomed.
Ta, Corin.
Corin
As you know we have a rolling road so we can gauge improvements as work is done, I am sure the non reversal cones etc will give gains as i did the original fitment and testing of these 6 years ago however there does seem to be some basics that need sorting first. Give me a bell and we can run through some ideas, I would possibly suspect fuelling or cam problems seein the torque figures. Give me a bell if i can help
Richard
As you know we have a rolling road so we can gauge improvements as work is done, I am sure the non reversal cones etc will give gains as i did the original fitment and testing of these 6 years ago however there does seem to be some basics that need sorting first. Give me a bell and we can run through some ideas, I would possibly suspect fuelling or cam problems seein the torque figures. Give me a bell if i can help
Richard
jester7 said:
I had very similar problems with my Griff 500. Unfortunatly diagnosed as the dreaded worn cam syndrome. If you can do or get done,compression test and leak down test. This will give the basic engine info before you start playing with fueling etc
Thanks folks, It could be 'camtime' as the car has covered 57K on the original one! Is the 404 the way to go? Ruddy was talking about a 'Stealth'? cam today that bridged the gap between the 404 and MC1?
Edited by Bomber Denton on Saturday 3rd March 20:43
Just popped over from the Griff forum, Sorry to here your troubles Corin.
From experience it could one of many things or indeed all of them (in my case all of them
) certainly too many for an armchair diagnosis.
As 2Munkys said (Hi Bruce
) Richard at Dulfords really is the guru when it come to finding and sorting problems out
From experience it could one of many things or indeed all of them (in my case all of them
) certainly too many for an armchair diagnosis. As 2Munkys said (Hi Bruce
) Richard at Dulfords really is the guru when it come to finding and sorting problems out Bomber Denton said:
jester7 said:
I had very similar problems with my Griff 500. Unfortunatly diagnosed as the dreaded worn cam syndrome. If you can do or get done,compression test and leak down test. This will give the basic engine info before you start playing with fueling etc
Thanks folks, It could be 'camtime' as the car has covered 57K on the original one! Is the 404 the way to go? Ruddy was talking about a 'Stealth'? cam today that bridged the gap between the 404 and MC1?
Edited by Bomber Denton on Saturday 3rd March 20:43
Agree the mostly likely cause is a worn cam. The reduction in valve lift only takes affect at higher rpm where reduced duration and lift prevent the airflow required being reached. There is a hydraulic grind of the 404 - the H404.
Steve.
I've heard a lot of good reports about the Stealth cam, I'm running the MC2 which i am very happy with.
MC1 is basically a smoother version of the TVR std cam, the Stealth and MC2 are a bit more wild but without out the low rpm shunt you get with the H404...if you like a smooth ride at low rpm's (anything below 2,500rpm) i would avoid the 404 cam.
MC1 is basically a smoother version of the TVR std cam, the Stealth and MC2 are a bit more wild but without out the low rpm shunt you get with the H404...if you like a smooth ride at low rpm's (anything below 2,500rpm) i would avoid the 404 cam.
Bomber Denton said:
jester7 said:
I had very similar problems with my Griff 500. Unfortunatly diagnosed as the dreaded worn cam syndrome. If you can do or get done,compression test and leak down test. This will give the basic engine info before you start playing with fueling etc
Thanks folks, It could be 'camtime' as the car has covered 57K on the original one! Is the 404 the way to go? Ruddy was talking about a 'Stealth'? cam today that bridged the gap between the 404 and MC1?
Edited by Bomber Denton on Saturday 3rd March 20:43
Depends how far you want to go!!! The 404 is an excellent cam with big BHP but i wouldnt recommend it with the Lucas system best to go fully mapped (omex, emerald, megasquirt) The Stealth is the one to go for OR Real Steel do a cam called a stump puller which i know works very well with the lucas system.
I had a stealth cam fitted to my 450 and had nothing but problems and in the end had it changed to a 218 while my top end was getting rebuilt.....I brought the cam from Rob at V8 racing and had it fitted by my own workshop with new adjustable pushrods so the preloads would be set correct, but the top end sounded terrible and after 3 goes at checking the preloads etc I took it to Austec.
They send the valves had mushroomed! and I needed the top end rebuilt, I told then bot to change the cam as it was brand new! Guess what once rebuilt the top end sounded the same and Austec kindly offered to change the cam at cost with no labour and guess what it was perfect after they done this....tried to get a refund from Rob but nothing so if you still want one you can have mine for £150, its only done 200 miles!!
They send the valves had mushroomed! and I needed the top end rebuilt, I told then bot to change the cam as it was brand new! Guess what once rebuilt the top end sounded the same and Austec kindly offered to change the cam at cost with no labour and guess what it was perfect after they done this....tried to get a refund from Rob but nothing so if you still want one you can have mine for £150, its only done 200 miles!!
I found out of all the people I have dealt with Rob is by far the best and most genuine.After my 5.5 engine was mapped by a well known tuner,which resulted in my engine being bore washed and needing a rebuild he repaired it and didn't charge me a penny,even though it was not his fault!
He also replaced a cam for free when I was not happy with it(it was a monster cam,with such bad idle I had no brake vacuum!)his 404 mechanical cam ran fine with an emerald ecu,with great tick over and would pull from 30 mph in 5th with no jerking.
He also replaced a cam for free when I was not happy with it(it was a monster cam,with such bad idle I had no brake vacuum!)his 404 mechanical cam ran fine with an emerald ecu,with great tick over and would pull from 30 mph in 5th with no jerking.
Quinny said:
Sorry to hear of your problems.
I got Rob to fit my cam, and the car hasn't missed a beat, and it's mechanically very quiet.
Rob's fitted literally hundreds of cams, and I would suggest that anyone buying a cam from him would do well to get him to fit it.
Then if there is a problem I'm sure he'd get it sorted.
I got Rob to fit my cam, and the car hasn't missed a beat, and it's mechanically very quiet.
Rob's fitted literally hundreds of cams, and I would suggest that anyone buying a cam from him would do well to get him to fit it.
Then if there is a problem I'm sure he'd get it sorted.
Wot he said
.I had a H404 fitted by Rob and it's lovely.It's done 12k miles and hasn't missed a beat-you wont get better than Rob/V8D imho.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff