Discussion
Temperature anything around 80 degrees while on the move and around 90 when stationary and the fan cuts in.
Oil Pressure a lift from FAQ Chimaera at TVRCC- You will get many and varied views on this one, and don't forget the gauges are not the most reliable in the world. Around 45 when cold and 15 when hot.
SP
Oil Pressure a lift from FAQ Chimaera at TVRCC- You will get many and varied views on this one, and don't forget the gauges are not the most reliable in the world. Around 45 when cold and 15 when hot.
SP
Absolutely what ^^^ he said. My 500 is only registering between 60 and 70 degrees on cold days at speed whereas in the summer it sits around 80. In traffic or stationary it runs at 90 degrees with the fans cutting in no matter the temp outside.
My oil pressure once warm sits at 15 at tickover or around 30 at speed. When cold recently I've noticed it at over 40 but it doesn't stay like that for long...
My advice is to take other's readings with a pinch of salt and get to know what your car's characteristics. Watch the dials and check the levels regularly. And enjoy driving it

My oil pressure once warm sits at 15 at tickover or around 30 at speed. When cold recently I've noticed it at over 40 but it doesn't stay like that for long...
My advice is to take other's readings with a pinch of salt and get to know what your car's characteristics. Watch the dials and check the levels regularly. And enjoy driving it


TVR moneypit said:
When mine was working, water temp would be 70 on the motorway, 90 in traffic, and the oil pressure would be 30ish.
Now the water temp is over 120, and the oil pressure is 50.
that may be the voltage regulator for the gauges,i have the same problem,my temps go from 90 to 115 in traffic with fuel gauge readings from 1/2 to 3/4 does & oil pressure from 30 to 55 at constant throttle, its very seldom but it was getting more & more frequent before winter lay/up,in my case def overeading fault,need to find voltage reg/earth wiring fault,i have had Fords and VW,s do exactly the same thing in the pastNow the water temp is over 120, and the oil pressure is 50.

must admit i nearly past out 1st time i saw the gauge hit 120 in traffic,only to find at the w/shop with the thermal gun only 90 with fans cutting in and out
shame the fuel level does not change with the optimistic readings on the fuel gauge
Edited by That Daddy on Friday 28th December 18:41
I have recently bought a Chim 400 1996.
The engine temp is fine but the guage only reads to 65. The fuel tank is full but the gauge only reads to half. The Oil is 35 but I guess that uses a capillary not electrics?
My MIL panel lights also do not work.
Does anyone know where the gauge voltage regulator is, how to change it and what donor vehicle it came from?
Thanks in anticipation of any help?
The engine temp is fine but the guage only reads to 65. The fuel tank is full but the gauge only reads to half. The Oil is 35 but I guess that uses a capillary not electrics?
My MIL panel lights also do not work.
Does anyone know where the gauge voltage regulator is, how to change it and what donor vehicle it came from?
Thanks in anticipation of any help?
All the gauges are electronic including oil pressure. I'd suggest you have either individual sender problems or possibly a bad earth? There's a spare coolant temperature sender you can use if fitted with a series resistor of 120 - 200 ohms (see various other threads). The 65°C reading might actually be normal in this weather.
You might see the MIL indicator flicker at ignition on, but they don't all do it. Otherwise you should only expect to see it if you have a hard fault in the fuel injection system.
You might see the MIL indicator flicker at ignition on, but they don't all do it. Otherwise you should only expect to see it if you have a hard fault in the fuel injection system.
The only voltage reg I know of is an integral part of the alternator.
If your instrument feed is <@10v the ignition warning light would probably be coming on.
Temp may read cool because the sender itself is being cooled by the cold air.
Fuel tank float may have snagged on the tank baffles.
Dave
If your instrument feed is <@10v the ignition warning light would probably be coming on.
Temp may read cool because the sender itself is being cooled by the cold air.
Fuel tank float may have snagged on the tank baffles.
Dave
Thanks,
That is a lot of help. I will check the sender end of things.
I have already fixed a few problems with the car in the few days I have had it. I must admit I enjoy this part of the hobby as much as driving.
Is there a good workshop manual I can purchase which will help me sort the inevitable problems out?
Thanks again
That is a lot of help. I will check the sender end of things.
I have already fixed a few problems with the car in the few days I have had it. I must admit I enjoy this part of the hobby as much as driving.
Is there a good workshop manual I can purchase which will help me sort the inevitable problems out?
Thanks again
Steve Heaths book (commonly referred to as the bible) is available thru the TVRCC web-site. Thats about all there is, RoverV8 stuff is available on-line as well as plenty of stuff on here and the Griff pages & Chim pages.
Learning to use the advanced search on PH will give you a wealth of info/tips as well.
Dave
Learning to use the advanced search on PH will give you a wealth of info/tips as well.
Dave
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff




