Rust on Chassis
Discussion
I had my car up on a two poster today to have a look,
I noticed the paint which looks like powercoat is peeling away exposing the bare metal of the chassis,
While it is only superficial surface rust at the moment
I thought I nip it in the bud and do something about it, I thought id just brush the loose rust off, treat it and then use Hamerite paint. This would be ok on the exposed parts of the chassis but there are areas where most of the chassis rails are encased in the body.
Can any body recommend a method to treat the chassis without taking the body off?
:scratchchin:
Edtvr.
I noticed the paint which looks like powercoat is peeling away exposing the bare metal of the chassis,
While it is only superficial surface rust at the moment
I thought I nip it in the bud and do something about it, I thought id just brush the loose rust off, treat it and then use Hamerite paint. This would be ok on the exposed parts of the chassis but there are areas where most of the chassis rails are encased in the body.
Can any body recommend a method to treat the chassis without taking the body off?
:scratchchin:
Edtvr.
2 Smokin Barrels said:
I've seen Joolz (Trackcar) just after he'd waxoyled mine...messy business
Aye, I asked Ian at Middlewich to do mine and, when I looked over my shoulder on the way out, he was crying
Edit: do believe TVRPower are offering a full chassis treatment that involves body panel removal - could be worth a call and a chat
>> Edited by dodgyviper on Sunday 16th October 22:29
Take the flaky stuff off, and buy some black POR15.
You don't really need to remove the rust, you can paint straight over it with this stuff.
If I were you I'd treat all the sections of metal you can see, and some that you can't. Get a strong torch in the engine bay and have a real good hunt around.
You don't really need to remove the rust, you can paint straight over it with this stuff.
If I were you I'd treat all the sections of metal you can see, and some that you can't. Get a strong torch in the engine bay and have a real good hunt around.
You were lucky!!! Took the body off the racer (to be) this weekend...look what I found...
With the body on there only seemed to be a nominal amount of surface rust on the out riggers. I've now a little over a week to sort it, 'cos the car is booked into have its cage fitted soon.
Edited cos i can't spell properly or use decent grammar.
Regards
Iain
>> Edited by chassis 33 on Monday 17th October 00:16
With the body on there only seemed to be a nominal amount of surface rust on the out riggers. I've now a little over a week to sort it, 'cos the car is booked into have its cage fitted soon.
Edited cos i can't spell properly or use decent grammar.
Regards
Iain
>> Edited by chassis 33 on Monday 17th October 00:16
The outriggers are impossible to work on by traditional methods. I cleared away as much muck as possible with a series of homemade scrapers designed to curve around the rails. Do it when the car is very dry and you'll find it's like removing soil. I used a long bristled brush and took my time applying rust converter, hamerite and waxoil.
My chassis looks good but the powder coating on the outriggers is shot and I have surface rust. P&J is in being serviced at the moment and I will be getting a quote for a body off chassis strip down and respray when I pick her up later this week - I will add a new post when I have the final amount. I know Austec do a chassis coat for £295 (or thereabouts) dont know if thats body on or off tho...
bigdods said:
My chassis looks good but the powder coating on the outriggers is shot and I have surface rust. P&J is in being serviced at the moment and I will be getting a quote for a body off chassis strip down and respray when I pick her up later this week - I will add a new post when I have the final amount. I know Austec do a chassis coat for £295 (or thereabouts) dont know if thats body on or off tho...
Thanks guys for all your ideas,
Thanks Scott I'd appreciate your feedback.
Ed
POR15 is the way. Hammerite will drop off like scabs.
For outriggers, scrape away the crud as suggested. Carefully mask off any surrounding areas you want to stay painted. Use Nitromors to remove what paint/coating is left. I'm pretty sad; I got some sanding belts off an electric sander (the thin ones) cut them, and wrapped them round the tubes to sand down to clean bare metal, then acid etched the lot (Frosts again). You could coat the rust liberally with rust converter (er, Frosts). Then paint liberally with POR15. I slapped* it on the top, worked it in as much as poss down the back, made sure there was enough to run down the back for coverage, then attacked from the bottom. With the car on ramps or over a pit you can see if you've covered it all. Finish isn't that critical, coverage is. For complete (OTT?) protection cover the POR15 with Waxoyl Underseal. When its all dry you can remove your masking.
*Caution: POR15 will NOT come off once its on. That applies to everything, including and especially you. Don't get underneath any drips unless you want a second job as an Al Jolson impsersonator.
For outriggers, scrape away the crud as suggested. Carefully mask off any surrounding areas you want to stay painted. Use Nitromors to remove what paint/coating is left. I'm pretty sad; I got some sanding belts off an electric sander (the thin ones) cut them, and wrapped them round the tubes to sand down to clean bare metal, then acid etched the lot (Frosts again). You could coat the rust liberally with rust converter (er, Frosts). Then paint liberally with POR15. I slapped* it on the top, worked it in as much as poss down the back, made sure there was enough to run down the back for coverage, then attacked from the bottom. With the car on ramps or over a pit you can see if you've covered it all. Finish isn't that critical, coverage is. For complete (OTT?) protection cover the POR15 with Waxoyl Underseal. When its all dry you can remove your masking.
*Caution: POR15 will NOT come off once its on. That applies to everything, including and especially you. Don't get underneath any drips unless you want a second job as an Al Jolson impsersonator.
I was quoted £750 for full chassis prep (body on) so decided to do it myself...
It was a bitch of a job, took 68 man hours in total. 2 full weekends and a week of evenings with the car on axle stands but I doubt any garage would have done it as well.
It went something like this:
1) Get car on 6 tonne stands - 500mm ground clearance!
2) Remove wheels
3) Scrape, prise, floss, curse stones, soil etc from around the outriggers and chassis plates in the wheel arches
4) Scrape all the obviously loose coating off
5) Pressure wash underside while led on your back(watch the electrics but get up close and personal on chassis sections)
6) Allow to dry - look beneath, have a 'My God, what have I started?' moment.
7) Spend many, many days scraping, sanding, flossing, pressure washing, scraping, sanding,flossing, pressure washing (you get the picture. Pause for beer but only breifly - this takes a long time.
8) When all is back to bare metal / firm rust wipe with white spirit then meths to degrease and paint with a rust convertor (I used Fe-123)
9) Paint with epoxy mastic (much better than Hammerite IMHO)
10) Recoat and do all the bits you missed the first time.
11) Paint wheel arches and all plastic underbody with Dinirol undersealer
12) Spray all sections with Dinitrol eqivalent of waxoyl. Get right up to those areas you couldn't quite reach earlier.. Cover brake disks before you do this.. Try and avoid exhaust sections too but smother everything else..
13) Refit the wheels and lower - leave overnight. Put some sheets down to catch the drips
14) Throw clothes away, cut paint out of hair, go into rehab to overcome white spirit / paint / dinitrol solvent addiction.
15) Start her up in the morning and take her out for a smoke 'Hey Mister - your car's on fire!'
16) Award you neighbour with a bottle of Champagne for all his help.
17) Pray it lasts at least 5 years...
>> Edited by tigertiger on Monday 17th October 14:13
>> Edited by tigertiger on Monday 17th October 14:16
>> Edited by tigertiger on Monday 17th October 14:19
It was a bitch of a job, took 68 man hours in total. 2 full weekends and a week of evenings with the car on axle stands but I doubt any garage would have done it as well.
It went something like this:
1) Get car on 6 tonne stands - 500mm ground clearance!
2) Remove wheels
3) Scrape, prise, floss, curse stones, soil etc from around the outriggers and chassis plates in the wheel arches
4) Scrape all the obviously loose coating off
5) Pressure wash underside while led on your back(watch the electrics but get up close and personal on chassis sections)
6) Allow to dry - look beneath, have a 'My God, what have I started?' moment.
7) Spend many, many days scraping, sanding, flossing, pressure washing, scraping, sanding,flossing, pressure washing (you get the picture. Pause for beer but only breifly - this takes a long time.
8) When all is back to bare metal / firm rust wipe with white spirit then meths to degrease and paint with a rust convertor (I used Fe-123)
9) Paint with epoxy mastic (much better than Hammerite IMHO)
10) Recoat and do all the bits you missed the first time.
11) Paint wheel arches and all plastic underbody with Dinirol undersealer
12) Spray all sections with Dinitrol eqivalent of waxoyl. Get right up to those areas you couldn't quite reach earlier.. Cover brake disks before you do this.. Try and avoid exhaust sections too but smother everything else..
13) Refit the wheels and lower - leave overnight. Put some sheets down to catch the drips
14) Throw clothes away, cut paint out of hair, go into rehab to overcome white spirit / paint / dinitrol solvent addiction.
15) Start her up in the morning and take her out for a smoke 'Hey Mister - your car's on fire!'
16) Award you neighbour with a bottle of Champagne for all his help.
17) Pray it lasts at least 5 years...
>> Edited by tigertiger on Monday 17th October 14:13
>> Edited by tigertiger on Monday 17th October 14:16
>> Edited by tigertiger on Monday 17th October 14:19
tigertiger said:Sounds like the job I did although I compressed it down to one weekend and one week of evenings. When completed I wished I'd had more time because to complete in this short time I had to cut a few corners. Result is that two years on I feel like I should get under there and do it again and properly this time.
It was a bitch of a job, took 68 man hours in total.
Priceless. I spent 2 months of weekends on mine and a few week days.
I done almost the same as tigertiger. But I used some stuff called rubbercoat on the inside of my wheel arches. It drys like a big tyre inside your wheel arch, and after two years is still there and its wipe clean!
I sprayed about 5 litres of waxoil under her after painting, although probably about a litre of that evaporated in smoke the first time I took it out!
I done almost the same as tigertiger. But I used some stuff called rubbercoat on the inside of my wheel arches. It drys like a big tyre inside your wheel arch, and after two years is still there and its wipe clean!
I sprayed about 5 litres of waxoil under her after painting, although probably about a litre of that evaporated in smoke the first time I took it out!
Just got back from the V8 Centre - full body off , engine out chassis sand blast and re-powder coat is about £2500. Blimey. But they had a good look and the chasiss and outriggers are in good nick so they reckon a few hours labour to scrape off any loose podwer coat, then prep and cover affected areas with whatever gunk they use , then a good waxoyl all over should see it ok for a while. Didnt get down to exact price but Im guessing its going to be something in the £200-£300 bracket , similar to Austec pricing.
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