Anyone tried Fabsil Gold?

Anyone tried Fabsil Gold?

Author
Discussion

SharkyTVR

Original Poster:

413 posts

243 months

Thursday 3rd November 2005
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You've probably read me bleating on about my Chim's leak in other threads. Sorry, don't mean to go on about it. I guess this is what they refer to as "TVR character". The car is just awesome in just about every respect, so I can forgive it the occasional bit of incontinence!!

I was wondering if anyone has tried Fabsil Gold, vs regular Fabsil. Better? Worth the dosh?

Here's a link: www.stay-dry.co.uk/product-view.php?product=fab-gold

tvrbob

11,193 posts

269 months

Thursday 3rd November 2005
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Fabsil is great. Spray on waterproofers are worse than useless though, the silicon does not penetrate it just sticks to the ends of the fibres. Buy it in liquid form and brush it on.

M@H

11,298 posts

286 months

Thursday 3rd November 2005
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Fabsil Gold was no more use then Fabsil for me ..I only use Thomsons Waterseal on mine as I feel its the best of the bunch and by FAR the most cost effective.

Cheers,
Matt

Cooky

4,955 posts

251 months

Thursday 3rd November 2005
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Tried plenty of Lebanese and Moroccan Gold, and can say they definitely worked.



>> Edited by Cooky on Thursday 3rd November 19:55

Gaffer

7,156 posts

291 months

Thursday 3rd November 2005
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I used 2 cans of Gold and she doesnt leak at all.
Sat outside all weathers for long periods of time as well.

Claire

aaandy

761 posts

266 months

Thursday 3rd November 2005
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I'd stay clear of the spray fabsil. Would make a right mess. Much better with the normal fabsil and just paint it on. One coat should be fine and had the water beading off my roof, but if in doubt two coats would more than enough till the spring.

Gaffer

7,156 posts

291 months

Thursday 3rd November 2005
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I used the spray with no problems. Just a little time and care and it was ok.

Claire

SharkyTVR

Original Poster:

413 posts

243 months

Thursday 3rd November 2005
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Cheers - actually, even thought the piccy is of a spray, I would by the 1 litre tin and brush on.

chris547

87 posts

251 months

Sunday 27th November 2005
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I have used bog standard Fabsil on my 93 Chim and it works fine for 6 months. I kept spraying it until it seeps right through and can be seen as damp patches inside. The hassle is having to mask off ( I used damp towels so they cling, don't tell her indoors) the rear screen and bodywork so the paint on method sounds like a better idea practically. Where can you buy this Thompsons stuff? Is it marketed for sealing brickwork and buildings or is this different stuff?

tvrbob

11,193 posts

269 months

Sunday 27th November 2005
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chris547 said:
I kept spraying it until it seeps right through and can be seen as damp patches inside.
Brush on is the only way to go. I'm now into the fourth winter since application and still there's no water penetration. Vigorous preparation and soap removal. Applying by brush to a completely dry roof. Four coats, side to side, corner to corner, other corner to corner then the final coat front to back.

M@H

11,298 posts

286 months

Monday 28th November 2005
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chris547 said:
Where can you buy this Thompsons stuff? Is it marketed for sealing brickwork and buildings or is this different stuff?


Same stuff, you can get it in Homebase/B&Q/Builders Merchants type places.. If you read the can though it does describe how you can use it for fabrics and leather so it is actually also made for the purpose. Ultimately its all the same silicone based technology with Thompsons or Fabsil, but you'll find 5l of Fabsil costs you a fortune compared to 5l of Thompsons.

Cheers
Matt

tvrbob

11,193 posts

269 months

Monday 28th November 2005
quotequote all
M@H said:
I only use Thomsons Waterseal on mine as I feel its the best of the bunch and by FAR the most cost effective.

Cheers,
Matt
Doh, that old chestnut. There's no difference, they're the same stuff. If anything Fabsil has the right pedigree, it has been developed specifically for use on fabric and may have some special additive that enhances its use on fabric. Thompson is a brickwork sealant that can also be used on fabric; it probably has some special additive that helps it soak into brickwork.

Granted Thompson is less expensive and so being of the same basic stuff it’s a reasonable choice.

ads

1,369 posts

271 months

Tuesday 29th November 2005
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tvrbob said:
chris547 said:
I kept spraying it until it seeps right through and can be seen as damp patches inside.
Brush on is the only way to go. I'm now into the fourth winter since application and still there's no water penetration. Vigorous preparation and soap removal. Applying by brush to a completely dry roof. Four coats, side to side, corner to corner, other corner to corner then the final coat front to back.


I`ve used sprays before, but this time i want to use the brush on fabsil. I think it is probably better for the stitching.

Can I ask what you use to clean the roof with prior to painting the fabsil on?

Also any tips about brushing it on as I`m worried it will leave streaks.

tvrbob

11,193 posts

269 months

Tuesday 29th November 2005
quotequote all
ads said:
I`ve used sprays before, but this time i want to use the brush on fabsil. I think it is probably better for the stitching.

Can I ask what you use to clean the roof with prior to painting the fabsil on?

Also any tips about brushing it on as I`m worried it will leave streaks.
This really is a summer job.

The way I do this:
With the roof on the car, use basic washing-up liquid and hot water. Scrub the soapy water into the roof with a nail brush. Be vicious, it won't damage the fabric. When you are satisfied that the fabric is as clean as you can get it use a hose pipe and deluge the roof while scrubbing with the nail brush. You must get all the soap out or the sealant won't adhere. Leave to dry and then admire the lovely roof colour you didn't know was under all that muck.

Sealing the fabric is messy but easy. Rear section first. With the roof on, newspaper in the join to stop sealant getting onto the top section and masking around the body and window, liberally brush sealant on in stripes making sure the join line stays wet. You can brush on several coats without waiting for it to dry. Be sure to get plenty of sealant in the bottom window join. Best for subsequent coats to be in different directions. When complete, take the roof panel off and brush some sealant into the rear section joining seal.

The roof section is easier when done off the car. Same process, don't let the line dry, recoat in different directions. Leave to dry and job done. You should be good for several years; I'm still dry three year on.

ads

1,369 posts

271 months

Wednesday 30th November 2005
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Thanks, I`ll try that in the summer,
I have not had any leaks yet (touch wood, I just want to keep the roof in as best a condition as possible.

I have been doing mine every year with the spray, but I`m not convinced it is as good a job as the brush on, so i`ll try your method next. thanks again