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STE VR
Original Poster
245 posts
33 months
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As the title really, can anybody advise on any handy/special tools that make life easier on removing the two manifolds before I take on the task this weekend?
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chrispitman
563 posts
81 months
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Buy a couple of cheap spanners (cant remember size) then you can bend them to get better access.
I fitted a set of ARP bolts, they are much harder material and have a smaller head making it eaiser to get a spanner on, most can be done with a ratchet spanner now.
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rev-erend
14,372 posts
111 months
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Regular ring spanners and a flat drive socket set. Best advice is to loosen 1/4 turn each bolt .. then completely remove any akward access bolts,, then the easy ones. Replace old bolts with the much nicer ARP bolts : http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=222
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RumbleBee
309 posts
33 months
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Best thing I got for it was a reducer bit for my ratchet, so that I can use a tiny ratchet in a 3/8" socket. The little ratchet fits in ok, but the bolt size is usually larger socket.
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dogbucket
465 posts
28 months
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I am a tool addict so used these 3 babies. got all the bolts out from above.  Snap-on flankdrive plus 14mm SOEXM14 combination wrench - Open end has serrations that grip, not sure any other manufacturers make anything as good really Snap-on 4 Way Angle Head VSM5214B - good for the lower front one where an open ended is needed Facom straight ring spanner 59.14x15 - for the other lower ones particularly the back 2.
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lewis_sharman
995 posts
18 months
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rev-erend said: Regular ring spanners and a flat drive socket set. Best advice is to loosen 1/4 turn each bolt .. then completely remove any akward access bolts,, then the easy ones. Replace old bolts with the much nicer ARP bolts : http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=222What size threads are these bolts? I can get stainless high tensile bolts from a certain source 
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spend
7,784 posts
78 months
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Best tool by far, is the old grey matter and realization that if the manifold is blowing continually tightening the bolts is only going to cause more problems  Clean the threads out in the head, copper slip the bolts, torque them up properly and in the future you are unlikely to have any of the nightmares so often described on here.. Just be aware on some manifolds a couple of the bolts don't come out very far as they are kept captive and only have room to be undone as the manifold is loosened away from the head.
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Simon Says
5,062 posts
48 months
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dogbucket
465 posts
28 months
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Simon Says said: I agree, they work well; but if you use stainless steel bolts they need the stainless steel nordlocks as the standard ones on that page wont work (the teeth cannot grip the harder SS). I speak from experience..
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STE VR
Original Poster
245 posts
33 months
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Gents, that is all excellent advice. ARP bolts are on the way already plus any excuse to buy new shiny tools is a plus! Many thanks. 
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GreenV8S
22,941 posts
111 months
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lewis_sharman said: I can get stainless high tensile bolts Is that not a contradiction in terms? Stainless steel is inherently brittle. I understand that stainless steel and aluminium react rather badly together so probably not a good choice from that point of view. The lack of tensile strength wouldn't be an issue since they're hardly nipped up but we have enough grief with ordinary steel bolts seizing/snapping without using ones which are even more brittle and more prone to seizing.
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lewis_sharman
995 posts
18 months
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Never have bolts been more confusing  I think i will just try and be careful removing the old ones and re-use them if they are in good nick ETA I'm pretty sure they keep different grades at work for different applications  , and they are all definately stainless because thats all we are allowed to use. Another ETA  ARP say - "Set of 16 Stainless Steel Hex High tensile bolts"
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GreenV8S
22,941 posts
111 months
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lewis_sharman said: I think i will just try and be careful removing the old ones and re-use them if they are in good nick The ARP K-head bolts are highly recommended anyway since they make access so much easier, combined with a 72-point ratchet it makes the job a heck of a lot easier.
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lewis_sharman
995 posts
18 months
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GreenV8S said: lewis_sharman said: I think i will just try and be careful removing the old ones and re-use them if they are in good nick The ARP K-head bolts are highly recommended anyway since they make access so much easier, combined with a 72-point ratchet it makes the job a heck of a lot easier. But will the galvanic corrosion be a problem if you ever come to remove them again? And is there any specific justification for the price?
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lewis_sharman
995 posts
18 months
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Or due to the access problem, could you use any large allen headed bolts?
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Pupp
4,158 posts
99 months
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lewis_sharman said: But will the galvanic corrosion be a problem if you ever come to remove them again?
And is there any specific justification for the price? Used them for years, coppaslipped with no issues at all. Worth their weight in gold 
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Pupp
4,158 posts
99 months
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lewis_sharman said: Or due to the access problem, could you use any large allen headed bolts? Not a chance on the majority of the lowers
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GreenV8S
22,941 posts
111 months
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lewis_sharman said: And is there any specific justification for the price? Who cares? I mean, dude, just look at them; they're all shiny.
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Pupp
4,158 posts
99 months
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GreenV8S said: lewis_sharman said: And is there any specific justification for the price? Who cares? I mean, dude, just look at them; they're all shiny. 
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spend
7,784 posts
78 months
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Glad to say I keep my nuts solely for screwing purposes, but if showing them off on the mantlepiece / through the front window is your thing....
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