Went to see my first Jag XJR
Discussion
NormanD said:
When I used to employ staff there was a Quotation. 'If you pay Peanuts you get Monkeys'
Same goes with buying cars, ' Pay Peanuts you end up buying Rustbuckets and problems' !!
OK you save a grand or two orriginally but then pay any 1,000s more putting the car right after
By the same token, a car is only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it. I have seen XJR's sitting at £5k which have been for sale for more than 6 months. They don't sell at that price. Maybe showroom condition low milers would?Same goes with buying cars, ' Pay Peanuts you end up buying Rustbuckets and problems' !!
OK you save a grand or two orriginally but then pay any 1,000s more putting the car right after
I will bide my time and wait for the right car at the right price. I simply refuse to pay £5k for one of these, personally I don't think they are worth that, plus I have set myself a budget and intend to stick to it.
The right car will always sell quickly. This one seemed to sell pretty swiftly - http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/j...
I suggest checking out the JEC classifieds from time to time, you may end up finding a good example on there that is within budget.
I suggest checking out the JEC classifieds from time to time, you may end up finding a good example on there that is within budget.
giblet said:
Retails at £2900 and CAPs between £900-1500, it's a thirsty 15 year old car and that's how the market sees it. They're not in Classic status yet and prices are still fallingThe Parkers and Glass Trade price guides are there to keep the Trade in buisness. No singe dealer or garage group would be able to buy and sell cars at a profit for any length of time unless they had this information. They wouldn't have a clue what to offer in a part exchange or how much margin they might get on any deal. It's there simply to stabilise and consolidate values for the Trades benefit and IMO bears absolutely no relation to the actual worth a of a particular car at a particular time.
The guides work well enough for mainstream cars that are relatively new which are the Trades bread and butter, but IMO needs chucking in the bin once cars get older. Chances are there's a world of difference between two seemingly identical cars that will both be retailed or advertised in a private sale at identical money because "the book says that's what it's worth".
In most cases that's complete b
ks but so many people seem to go along with it - or get decieved by it - it obviously works.
If you're buying a older or unusual car the defining critera perhaps is - never mind how much the vendor thinks it's worth or what the book says, how much is it actually worth right here and right now, to me?
The guides work well enough for mainstream cars that are relatively new which are the Trades bread and butter, but IMO needs chucking in the bin once cars get older. Chances are there's a world of difference between two seemingly identical cars that will both be retailed or advertised in a private sale at identical money because "the book says that's what it's worth".
In most cases that's complete b
ks but so many people seem to go along with it - or get decieved by it - it obviously works.If you're buying a older or unusual car the defining critera perhaps is - never mind how much the vendor thinks it's worth or what the book says, how much is it actually worth right here and right now, to me?
giblet said:
Thanks Giblet, I already called this one as soon as it came up. Rust, alloys need seeing to, doesn't sound in the greatest condition overall. He was also a bit vague when I was asking him specific questions. So, I am still hunting. I think the main problem I am going to have is rust. Was speaking to a mechanic friend today and he rightly pointed out that even if you repair rust it WILL come back, the only 100% cure is to replace the infected panel.
As for prices, yes the official trade prices are always low.
If it ends up that I can't get a good one for my budget, I won't get one. I may start considering other options soon as I refuse to get involved with rusty cars.
chancha said:
Hi Mike, got a 2002 52 plate saphire blue with oatmael interior. All the toys including phone, cruise, heated seats and front windscreen. PM me if you would like to know more... cheers
Hi, I am interested and have sent you an e-mail. I am not having much luck finding one.....
Allegedly rust free, no idea what the reserve is though
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-JAGUAR-XJR-V8-AUTO-...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-JAGUAR-XJR-V8-AUTO-...
giblet said:
Allegedly rust free, no idea what the reserve is though
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-JAGUAR-XJR-V8-AUTO-...
Looks nice! Ive not known anyone have a £precautionary £head £gasket(s?) £though http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-JAGUAR-XJR-V8-AUTO-...
NormanD said:
Gallen said:
Looks nice! Ive not known anyone have a £precautionary £head £gasket(s?) £though
Although a good idea when changing the tensioners as you are well over 1/2 the way there at the timeI'd be very suspicious of a V8 that's had a "precautionary" head gasket(s) changed. The only reasons I can think you'd even contemplate taking the heads off a V8 engine is if you either had a fairly serious leak, a burnt out valve or the engine had been grossly overheated resulting in a blown gasket(s). Either way you'd need to be reassured that the work has been done correctly and in the case of overheating that the engine and heads had suffered no long term damage or what caused the burnt valve had been correctly diagnosed and rectified - which'll be almost impossible to prove either way with a brief test drive at the time of purchase.
Personally I'd walk away.
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