Discussion
RichB said:
Bloody accurate these 5.0ltr V8 TVR heating units and associated temperature gauges! My home central heating is only accurate to within 2 or 3 degrees.
yeah but you know what I mean, normal driving it sits just below the line, hot weather it sits just above the line, the point being the temperature does rise but not by much ie. it doesn't go up to an indicated 110C Out of interest do most people's temperature gauges match the fan cut in temps? My gauge seems to read a different temperature than the fan thermostat, first time it cuts in the gauge will be cooler than the next and so on, until it settles down somewhere in the low to mid 90s. Doesn't seem to be a problem but does seem that there is a difference for some reason, possibly heat soak under the bonnet??
Still takes ages to get the temp back down once it has been sitting in a queue so am interested in all this. My thought was to get a number plate with fewer digits so the number plate can be smaller but retaining legal character size/spacing. Even on a "normal" plate you could cut off a couple of inches that would otherwise be used for a GB/EU type logo...
Still takes ages to get the temp back down once it has been sitting in a queue so am interested in all this. My thought was to get a number plate with fewer digits so the number plate can be smaller but retaining legal character size/spacing. Even on a "normal" plate you could cut off a couple of inches that would otherwise be used for a GB/EU type logo...
Hello Rob, Interesting question, im convinced that the Griff ( like an R5 GT Turbo ) and like an E Type ( which has them ) needs louvres in the Bonet. The heat build up under there on a hot day is very high and the heat has hardly anywhere / no where to exit from.
Louvres in the side of the front wings to pull the heat out would probably help, but TVR didn't design them in to the smooth Griff shape and I'm very surprised that TVR didn't put them in the Griff Bonet from the outset.
On my previous 5 Turbos, as soon as it got hot the power used to drop off considerably as the heat just couldn't get out. Louvred bonets on these cars soon became very common back in the day.
One tip that I find essential, is that on a hot day and I'm stuck in stationary / slow moving traffic ( often encountered on the A21 Hastings road ) is to pull the bonnet realease, then reach around the screen and lift the bonnet up about a foot. This really helps to let the heat out.
If the traffic then starts to pick up speed you can reach forward and pull the bonnet back down. Even with it not latched back down and at speed I havnt had the bonnet raise due to air getting underneath it.
I got this idea in the past having seeing E Types stuck in heavy / slow traffic with the back of the ( front hinged Bonet raised )
Re fans cutting in, my fans havnt been cutting in for a while and I havnt yet found the cause, so I manually flick them on when the temp hits around 60. And at speed they have to stay on to keep the temp @ around 90.
However, has anyone noticed that when you switch the fans in just how much engine power seems to drop and the car sort of stumbles ?
Despite my new alternator it still does this.
Anyone fitted louvres to their Bonet and any pictures ?
Louvres in the side of the front wings to pull the heat out would probably help, but TVR didn't design them in to the smooth Griff shape and I'm very surprised that TVR didn't put them in the Griff Bonet from the outset.
On my previous 5 Turbos, as soon as it got hot the power used to drop off considerably as the heat just couldn't get out. Louvred bonets on these cars soon became very common back in the day.
One tip that I find essential, is that on a hot day and I'm stuck in stationary / slow moving traffic ( often encountered on the A21 Hastings road ) is to pull the bonnet realease, then reach around the screen and lift the bonnet up about a foot. This really helps to let the heat out.
If the traffic then starts to pick up speed you can reach forward and pull the bonnet back down. Even with it not latched back down and at speed I havnt had the bonnet raise due to air getting underneath it.
I got this idea in the past having seeing E Types stuck in heavy / slow traffic with the back of the ( front hinged Bonet raised )
Re fans cutting in, my fans havnt been cutting in for a while and I havnt yet found the cause, so I manually flick them on when the temp hits around 60. And at speed they have to stay on to keep the temp @ around 90.
However, has anyone noticed that when you switch the fans in just how much engine power seems to drop and the car sort of stumbles ?
Despite my new alternator it still does this.
Anyone fitted louvres to their Bonet and any pictures ?
Rob_the_Sparky said:
Out of interest do most people's temperature gauges match the fan cut in temps? My gauge seems to read a different temperature than the fan thermostat, first time it cuts in the gauge will be cooler than the next and so on, until it settles down somewhere in the low to mid 90s. Doesn't seem to be a problem but does seem that there is a difference for some reason, possibly heat soak under the bonnet??
Still takes ages to get the temp back down once it has been sitting in a queue so am interested in all this. My thought was to get a number plate with fewer digits so the number plate can be smaller but retaining legal character size/spacing. Even on a "normal" plate you could cut off a couple of inches that would otherwise be used for a GB/EU type logo...
Hey Rob, yes I have exactly the same thing. Fan cuts in first of all somewhere in the late 70C early 80C and then cuts in later at a much higher temperature (or just before the indicated 70 mark and just after the indicated 70 mark for those pedants amongst us.....). I assumed the sender for the fans was at a different point to the gauge. (and yes I did get rid of the bubbles in my water......! it would be good to meet up again sometime)Still takes ages to get the temp back down once it has been sitting in a queue so am interested in all this. My thought was to get a number plate with fewer digits so the number plate can be smaller but retaining legal character size/spacing. Even on a "normal" plate you could cut off a couple of inches that would otherwise be used for a GB/EU type logo...
And yes, once the temperature is up there it takes a long time for the temperature to come down.
Ric, sometime in the future I was also considering buying a bonnet with side vents like the Chimps. I think they look OK and I think they may make quite a difference to underbonnet heat. You can always go back to the old bonnet if you don't like it.
These looked good:
http://www.damagedtvrs.co.uk/products/part/16
There have been a few threads on vented bonnets in the past.
I suppose the other thing to try would be higher powered or rebladed fans - any info on these?
Pete
Edited by Pete Mac on Sunday 22 June 10:49
Frio3535 said:
My running temps vary from 70-80 on a run. When I had my Chim it would stick around 65-70 in Winter so expecting the same with the Griff. 90 if I'm sat in prolonged traffic which is when the fan kicks in.
On the RoverGauge my fans kick in at 189F = 87.2C Just had a play with RG stationary in garage with bonnet up. Note the temp arrow is in the green sweet spot sector, just right. I'm happy. No fault codes registered, happy again. Question, does the RG take it's reading off the facia gauge or off the actual water temperature some where. I could/should have checked the temperature drop when the fans switched off.
carsy said:
Snap. Had the odd scrape but not knocked off yet. Can honestly say it runs it cooler during the warmer weather and also brings the temp back down a lot lot quicker after being in standing traffic.
Fitted location wise as per Pete`s in this thread.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=...
Neutral - I made a batch and supplied our local TVRCC group (Griffs & Chims) with my splitter. If your interested I do still have a few left, send me a PM. By the way, I noticed a significant drop in running temperature with the splitter fitted. Regards, PeteFitted location wise as per Pete`s in this thread.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=...
PeteGriff said:
Neutral - I made a batch and supplied our local TVRCC group (Griffs & Chims) with my splitter. If your interested I do still have a few left, send me a PM. By the way, I noticed a significant drop in running temperature with the splitter fitted. Regards, Pete
Pete, it's funny but you've done exactly what I was planning to do. I wanted to replace the chicken wire with some nice stainless mesh but was trying to find mesh with the greatest air throughput to ensure there was minimal effect on the cooling. This is the mesh I came up with:http://www.meshdirect.co.uk/Woven-Stainless-Wire-C...
With 74% open area. Unfortunately I can't see your pictures of what you chose, on this system in the office so I will have to look tonight.
It sounds like I could probably do the mesh but would need a splitter and bonnet vents to help the cooling along. Pete
I made and fitted a 'guttering' splitter last Monday, went out in the car on Thursday and shattered the splitter after unexpectedly encountering an uneven road surface - is this a record?
Fitted another 'guttering' splitter yesterday, went out in the car today and the splitter is still intact!
I can't say that I noticed any beneficial effect through having one though.
Fitted another 'guttering' splitter yesterday, went out in the car today and the splitter is still intact!
I can't say that I noticed any beneficial effect through having one though.
neutral 3 said:
Those vents look ideal, where from ?
Oh come on, be honest, no they don't. After TVR put so much effort into designing such a beautiful shape devoid of external adornments like door handles, number plate lights and radio aerials you shouldn't spoil it with cheap stick on vents. If you're going to do anything get the Chimaera style vents put in but to be honest I just don't get this overheating thing. Having had my Griff from new I've never once had it overheat and that includes queuing for hours on several occasions to get in and out of Le Mans in 40 degC heat. Beauty...... Is in the eye of the beholder.
On a dark colored car they would look fine. But but yes, Chimp ones better looking.
The Griff was woefully under developed by TVR, the under bonnet temps are a joke, less heat build up means more power and anything to help reduce under bonnet temps has to be a very good thing.
On a dark colored car they would look fine. But but yes, Chimp ones better looking.
The Griff was woefully under developed by TVR, the under bonnet temps are a joke, less heat build up means more power and anything to help reduce under bonnet temps has to be a very good thing.
My 2 penneth, full size plate splitter fitted 500 engine, never had any concerns with overheating. Highest temp I have ever seen is mid 80's this Le Mans I queued for 2 hours in 30+ degrees making 9/10ths of a mile in all that time with engine on 1000 rpm steady, override switch on most of time yes but it kept it to 75%. So RichB they can do it and not as a one off. or perhaps it is our reg plate number?
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