ENGINE OIL ZINC
Discussion
For info, my latest look see, % zinc content.
Good old Castrol GTX 20W-50 0.120% Zinc multigrade. Web info
Penrite 15W-60 0.114% " full synthetic. Web info
Castrol 10W-60 0.100% " full synthetic. Castrol email reply. In mine.
FUCHS. 15W-50 0.100% " Titan Race. FUCHS 1000/Mil FUCHS
VALVO. 20W-50 0.140% " Valvoline VR1, PDF download. I presume %
Millers.. 20W-60 0.120% " Semi synthetic. E reply. More than 0,120%
.
There is zinc about, any worries ?
This completes my survey.
[
Good old Castrol GTX 20W-50 0.120% Zinc multigrade. Web info
Penrite 15W-60 0.114% " full synthetic. Web info
Castrol 10W-60 0.100% " full synthetic. Castrol email reply. In mine.
FUCHS. 15W-50 0.100% " Titan Race. FUCHS 1000/Mil FUCHS
VALVO. 20W-50 0.140% " Valvoline VR1, PDF download. I presume %
Millers.. 20W-60 0.120% " Semi synthetic. E reply. More than 0,120%
.
There is zinc about, any worries ?
This completes my survey.
[
Edited by EGB on Saturday 29th September 19:40
dod said:
Millers CSS 20w60 - Semi-synth, enough zinc protect your cam, but still catalytic converter friendly.
How much David. Can you get it in Warsaw !Interesting. Not alot of difference between good old Castrol GTX 20 50 (old Duckams)and Penrite and new Castrol Edge. All about 0.100 - 0.120 % Ziltch!
Vr1 20-50 is speicifically designed for old type engines with flat tappet cams, it was designed by valvoline for historic v8 racing in the usa, because zinc has almost been banned in modern day oils due to health and safety they have had to list it as a race oil and not for road use, to be honest i think it is the best oil you can put in a rover, yes it may affect your cats but after many thousand miles!!
I think everyone is missing the point.
It's not "More Zinc = Less Wear", it simply doesn't work like that.
Once you reach 1200 ppm adding more zinc will do nothing whatsoever other than make the oil more expensive.
Valvoline VR1 has 1300 ppm zinc so it's over specified if anything.
All Millers oils carry the required levels of zinc, as do the majority of Penrite.
Start by looking closely at the ASI rating before you worry about anything else, this is the true measure of an engine oil's quality.
Then you need to confirm your oil has 1200 ppm of zinc, after that it's down to viscosity & weather you prefer a synthetic or a semi synthetic.
My preference for an RV8 over 30,000 miles is for a heavier oil.
Valvoline VR1 20W/50 looks like a good option, but these are my two favourites.
Synthetic: Penrite HPR15 15W/60 (very good value for a full synthetic)
Semi Synthetic: Millers CSS 20W/60 (used by most classic car race teams)
It's not "More Zinc = Less Wear", it simply doesn't work like that.
Once you reach 1200 ppm adding more zinc will do nothing whatsoever other than make the oil more expensive.
Valvoline VR1 has 1300 ppm zinc so it's over specified if anything.
All Millers oils carry the required levels of zinc, as do the majority of Penrite.
Start by looking closely at the ASI rating before you worry about anything else, this is the true measure of an engine oil's quality.
Then you need to confirm your oil has 1200 ppm of zinc, after that it's down to viscosity & weather you prefer a synthetic or a semi synthetic.
My preference for an RV8 over 30,000 miles is for a heavier oil.
Valvoline VR1 20W/50 looks like a good option, but these are my two favourites.
Synthetic: Penrite HPR15 15W/60 (very good value for a full synthetic)
Semi Synthetic: Millers CSS 20W/60 (used by most classic car race teams)
v8 racing said:
Vr1 20-50 is speicifically designed for old type engines with flat tappet cams, it was designed by valvoline for historic v8 racing in the usa, because zinc has almost been banned in modern day oils due to health and safety they have had to list it as a race oil and not for road use, to be honest i think it is the best oil you can put in a rover, yes it may affect your cats but after many thousand miles!!
Don`t think im going to bother with fully synthetic,just keep with the VR1.10 litres at £40
Seen posts on here regarding tapping engines ,then a move to eather Millers 20/60 or VR1 has completly got
rid of the tapping noise, especialy on higher mileage engines.
Some of the TVR specialists are useing 0w40
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Saturday 7th July 11:13
Surprised no-one has mentioned the fully synth 5w50 VR1 product that Valvoline also do. Again it has a decent zinc content, but with better cold-start abilities than the 20w50. May not be ultimately as stable as the narrower range product but I can't see that being an issue given the frequency of changes on our cars.
If you were changing from Mobil 1 to Valvoline VR1 on a higher mileage engine, would it be safe to just do the oil and filter change.
You would be mixing synthetic with mineral to a degree as there is always going to be a half litre or so left.
It is usually not recommended to mix mineral with synth.
You would be mixing synthetic with mineral to a degree as there is always going to be a half litre or so left.
It is usually not recommended to mix mineral with synth.
cjj799 said:
If you were changing from Mobil 1 to Valvoline VR1 on a higher mileage engine, would it be safe to just do the oil and filter change.
You would be mixing synthetic with mineral to a degree as there is always going to be a half litre or so left.
It is usually not recommended to mix mineral with synth.
You will have no problem at all just changing over You would be mixing synthetic with mineral to a degree as there is always going to be a half litre or so left.
It is usually not recommended to mix mineral with synth.
I'm moving on from the excellent Millers CSS 20w60 semi-synthetic to this at my next change:
http://classicoils.absolutewebhosting2.co.uk/Produ...
At £33.00 for a quality high zinc fully synthetic it's a steal, and the 15w60 weight is perfect for the Rover V8 too.
http://classicoils.absolutewebhosting2.co.uk/Produ...
At £33.00 for a quality high zinc fully synthetic it's a steal, and the 15w60 weight is perfect for the Rover V8 too.
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