HID Project - This weekend...
Discussion
With the onset of winter, and the light fading quickly I have decided the lights have got to be brighter this year.
I had considered the fitment of 'better' bulbs, but they didn't seem to offer that much of an advantage. The optional route of higher wattage with the required wiring and extra heat generated also weighed heavily against consideration.
Leaving me with the option of larger (SE) lamps or HID. I remember about 5 years ago when I had a 300ZX (which also has awful lights - although Lamborghini didn't think so!) HID kits were £800+. Last week I got a brand new kit from Ebay for £82 including postage - seemed an opportunity not to miss. The kit is H1 at 4300K, this puts out a pure white light - the type of bulbs used by OEM manufacturers (>4300K is to be avoided).
My only concern is the light could dazzle oncoming drivers, there is a lot of research and reading to be done on the net regarding this. However due to the type of lens and reflector used in the Grif lamp it should not present too much of a problem.
Okay, so thats some info....now for some pics...more to follow soon I hope....
Note the Ballast hanging out the bottom of the wing!
View from above
Ideal location for the Ballast!
All comments welcome (including any tips on getting the pods back in - appears to be a bit of a bugger!!!!)
I had considered the fitment of 'better' bulbs, but they didn't seem to offer that much of an advantage. The optional route of higher wattage with the required wiring and extra heat generated also weighed heavily against consideration.
Leaving me with the option of larger (SE) lamps or HID. I remember about 5 years ago when I had a 300ZX (which also has awful lights - although Lamborghini didn't think so!) HID kits were £800+. Last week I got a brand new kit from Ebay for £82 including postage - seemed an opportunity not to miss. The kit is H1 at 4300K, this puts out a pure white light - the type of bulbs used by OEM manufacturers (>4300K is to be avoided).
My only concern is the light could dazzle oncoming drivers, there is a lot of research and reading to be done on the net regarding this. However due to the type of lens and reflector used in the Grif lamp it should not present too much of a problem.
Okay, so thats some info....now for some pics...more to follow soon I hope....
Note the Ballast hanging out the bottom of the wing!
View from above
Ideal location for the Ballast!
All comments welcome (including any tips on getting the pods back in - appears to be a bit of a bugger!!!!)
To make them legal you have to add self leveling and a wash wipe system. Its one of those do i risk it things, i have looked many times and although the chances of getting cought out are small, just do not wish to risk it. Bit like non rubber foot pedals, my local body shop advised that i remove them before the insurance guy came round to look at my claim for someone reversing up the Griffs bonnet as it could be my fault !
Your griff looks stunning in your profile pic Dave 
I run xenons on my v8S and love them, but the griff is the one model in the tvr range i would have thought twice bout fiting them to .. the perspex covers are bound to create scatter, in fact you get some of that impression in the pictures .. but let's face it the griff lamps are pretty poor as std so the xenons have got to be an improvement from the driving seat.. just watch that scatter issue for oncomng traffic though.. maybe get a freidn to drive your griff whilst you drive towards it on a dark road and see for yourself if they cause any problems for oncoming drivers? i did this on the S and it isn't a problem but the beam pattern on the S is prety well defined.
I run xenons on my v8S and love them, but the griff is the one model in the tvr range i would have thought twice bout fiting them to .. the perspex covers are bound to create scatter, in fact you get some of that impression in the pictures .. but let's face it the griff lamps are pretty poor as std so the xenons have got to be an improvement from the driving seat.. just watch that scatter issue for oncomng traffic though.. maybe get a freidn to drive your griff whilst you drive towards it on a dark road and see for yourself if they cause any problems for oncoming drivers? i did this on the S and it isn't a problem but the beam pattern on the S is prety well defined.
Not managed to progress with anything today as I have spent 5 hours walking around IKEA with the other half!!!
The kits are on Ebay from a UK seller at the moment. Very friendly guy who despatched the item by Special Delivery, so I received it the next day. I actually won mine by auction, but he has Buy-It-Now kits for £99.98 incl P&P. Despite the dodgy 'chinenglish' text I am extremely impressed at the quality, expecially the wiring and connectors. I'm not plugging him - and remove if it is against rules, but his auctions are here: http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZxe
My other half has HID's on her new Civic and it was this that pushed me that way. She has the auto-level and wash system as required. I looked into this and it is a little sketchy (like so many things!). The law states that new cars fitted with HID lights have to have auto leveling and wash systems, there is nothing stated about 'retro-fit'. The advantage of this system is there is no modification to the wiring or bulb holder required. You can replace the standard Halogens in the time it takes to remove the access panel and unplug the wires/fit the original bulb. If there is any worry at MOT time, this is an hours work.
These lights draw around 35W, so there is a total of around 2A less current drawn than the originals.
I think the major problem with retro-fitting HID systems comes when you have a light unit sharing Dipped and Main beams. The HID over powers the reflector/lens and you get poor results. With a single lens such as the Griffith the result is much better. I have to stress that there are many warnings about going for a temperature colour greater than 4300K as this produces a light that induces more driver fatigue, 4300K is very close to daylight.
Anyway, I have Monday off - so hopefully I can post tomorrow with completed pictures and if I get the time and BB is willing to host I will put together a tutorial if people would find it useful?
The kits are on Ebay from a UK seller at the moment. Very friendly guy who despatched the item by Special Delivery, so I received it the next day. I actually won mine by auction, but he has Buy-It-Now kits for £99.98 incl P&P. Despite the dodgy 'chinenglish' text I am extremely impressed at the quality, expecially the wiring and connectors. I'm not plugging him - and remove if it is against rules, but his auctions are here: http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZxe
My other half has HID's on her new Civic and it was this that pushed me that way. She has the auto-level and wash system as required. I looked into this and it is a little sketchy (like so many things!). The law states that new cars fitted with HID lights have to have auto leveling and wash systems, there is nothing stated about 'retro-fit'. The advantage of this system is there is no modification to the wiring or bulb holder required. You can replace the standard Halogens in the time it takes to remove the access panel and unplug the wires/fit the original bulb. If there is any worry at MOT time, this is an hours work.
These lights draw around 35W, so there is a total of around 2A less current drawn than the originals.
I think the major problem with retro-fitting HID systems comes when you have a light unit sharing Dipped and Main beams. The HID over powers the reflector/lens and you get poor results. With a single lens such as the Griffith the result is much better. I have to stress that there are many warnings about going for a temperature colour greater than 4300K as this produces a light that induces more driver fatigue, 4300K is very close to daylight.
Anyway, I have Monday off - so hopefully I can post tomorrow with completed pictures and if I get the time and BB is willing to host I will put together a tutorial if people would find it useful?
Trackcar - I'm with you on the scatter issue, and have tried it out in the dark on a flat road.
Fortunately the small size of the the Grif lights are an advantage for once here. The light output is reduced enough by the small reflector/lens and diffuser in front of the bulb to prevent scatter from the perspex becoming too much of an issue. I was worried about the reflection from the painted housing, but it seems to be okay.
I think that keeping the perspex free of scratches with an occasional polish of t-cut will help also.
Fortunately the small size of the the Grif lights are an advantage for once here. The light output is reduced enough by the small reflector/lens and diffuser in front of the bulb to prevent scatter from the perspex becoming too much of an issue. I was worried about the reflection from the painted housing, but it seems to be okay.
I think that keeping the perspex free of scratches with an occasional polish of t-cut will help also.
Jeboa
a link on how to replace your pods, fairly straight forward
www.warks-tvr.org.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=34&Itemid=52
martin
a link on how to replace your pods, fairly straight forward
www.warks-tvr.org.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=34&Itemid=52
martin
Martin,
Thank you for the link, that is a great tutorial. On the advice of the author I have ordered a tube of Sikaflex. I was going to use the same silicon sealant that I have used previously to re-seal the brake resevoir/headlight access panels. I think that the results shown with sikaflex look excellent and I will try my best to emulate.
One quickie for everyone, is it common to have grub-screws at the front (above the indicators) that secure the front of the pod in place? I only noticed mine just before removal, but have never read about them in other threads. Typical TVR job of course - not real grub screws - but bolts with the head cut off and a hacksaw groove in the top. I wouldn't complain, but I wish they had tempered them after cutting the thread, as they were so soft they broke almost immediately and took an age to remove.
The project is on hold until next weekend, as I am back off to work in the morning. I have the wiring tidied up and the ballasts are mounted so far. I have cleaned and polished both lens's, and now need to stick them back to the pods. They were previously stuck with clear silcon sealant and two screws, seems to have held pretty well - so I will follow suit.
Thank you for the link, that is a great tutorial. On the advice of the author I have ordered a tube of Sikaflex. I was going to use the same silicon sealant that I have used previously to re-seal the brake resevoir/headlight access panels. I think that the results shown with sikaflex look excellent and I will try my best to emulate.
One quickie for everyone, is it common to have grub-screws at the front (above the indicators) that secure the front of the pod in place? I only noticed mine just before removal, but have never read about them in other threads. Typical TVR job of course - not real grub screws - but bolts with the head cut off and a hacksaw groove in the top. I wouldn't complain, but I wish they had tempered them after cutting the thread, as they were so soft they broke almost immediately and took an age to remove.
The project is on hold until next weekend, as I am back off to work in the morning. I have the wiring tidied up and the ballasts are mounted so far. I have cleaned and polished both lens's, and now need to stick them back to the pods. They were previously stuck with clear silcon sealant and two screws, seems to have held pretty well - so I will follow suit.
Antony,
I have both pods out now. There is nothing in the passenger side, and in the drivers side there is the carbon cannister for the emmision control.
I was surprised as I have the extra fan for the drivers side (with the control under the dash), which is connected to a vent in the footwell and the fresh air vents in the dash.
Not sure where this fan is connected, or the main fan? Maybe in the back part of the wings?
I have both pods out now. There is nothing in the passenger side, and in the drivers side there is the carbon cannister for the emmision control.
I was surprised as I have the extra fan for the drivers side (with the control under the dash), which is connected to a vent in the footwell and the fresh air vents in the dash.
Not sure where this fan is connected, or the main fan? Maybe in the back part of the wings?
jeboa said:
Antony,
I have both pods out now. There is nothing in the passenger side, and in the drivers side there is the carbon cannister for the emmision control.
I was surprised as I have the extra fan for the drivers side (with the control under the dash), which is connected to a vent in the footwell and the fresh air vents in the dash.
Not sure where this fan is connected, or the main fan? Maybe in the back part of the wings?
I have both pods out now. There is nothing in the passenger side, and in the drivers side there is the carbon cannister for the emmision control.
I was surprised as I have the extra fan for the drivers side (with the control under the dash), which is connected to a vent in the footwell and the fresh air vents in the dash.
Not sure where this fan is connected, or the main fan? Maybe in the back part of the wings?
yep, sits in the wing void behind the wheel arch.
Jack,
You're a Caterham 21 owner!! I was following one of these (a silver one) in the afternoon on the way to the Growl. Was it you??
I think there was a lady driving it at the time.
It is a bit of a different task for Hi/Lo beam lights. I think you are probably looking for a H4 bulb? The Grif uses the bulbs I am changing for low beam only, the Hi beam comes from the driving lights either side of the number plate.
You're a Caterham 21 owner!! I was following one of these (a silver one) in the afternoon on the way to the Growl. Was it you??
I think there was a lady driving it at the time.
It is a bit of a different task for Hi/Lo beam lights. I think you are probably looking for a H4 bulb? The Grif uses the bulbs I am changing for low beam only, the Hi beam comes from the driving lights either side of the number plate.
david beer said:
To make them legal you have to add self leveling and a wash wipe system. Its one of those do i risk it things, i have looked many times and although the chances of getting cought out are small, just do not wish to risk it. Bit like non rubber foot pedals, my local body shop advised that i remove them before the insurance guy came round to look at my claim for someone reversing up the Griffs bonnet as it could be my fault !
You only have to include those things when the car is manufactured with HID lights, not aftermarket, so its okay! Go for it!
Yes I am a Caterham 21 owner and mine is yellow!
My plan is to fit the Chimeara lenses and reflectors to my car and then try a higher power bulb before, if needed, upgrading to a HID system.
My problem is that I don't have driving lights either side of the number plate.
Maybe what I could do is fit some HID lights for high beam only!
More options!
Jack
My plan is to fit the Chimeara lenses and reflectors to my car and then try a higher power bulb before, if needed, upgrading to a HID system.
My problem is that I don't have driving lights either side of the number plate.
Maybe what I could do is fit some HID lights for high beam only!
More options!
Jack
You can get HID in H4 bulbs (dip and main beam), but more expensive.
My Alfa has Xenons from new and has manual leveling for the lights and no wash facility. Not sure about new cars now though.
So is th eopinion, 5" lenses with the HID rather than 7" with HID?
Virgil.
My Alfa has Xenons from new and has manual leveling for the lights and no wash facility. Not sure about new cars now though.
So is th eopinion, 5" lenses with the HID rather than 7" with HID?
Virgil.
Edited by virgil on Friday 22 September 10:50
A quick update....
I managed to finish the wiring and re-fit the pods last weekend - had to wait for delivery of some sikaflex 291.
Got to admit I didn't find the task of fitting the pods easy!
I have left the wheel arch covers off for the moment so I can drive to a garage (in the dry - hopefully) to get the beam heights adjusted correctly.
So far so good, I also need to finish off the final bead around the pod to neaten the job up.
I will post pictures this weekend!
I managed to finish the wiring and re-fit the pods last weekend - had to wait for delivery of some sikaflex 291.
Got to admit I didn't find the task of fitting the pods easy!
I have left the wheel arch covers off for the moment so I can drive to a garage (in the dry - hopefully) to get the beam heights adjusted correctly.
So far so good, I also need to finish off the final bead around the pod to neaten the job up.
I will post pictures this weekend!
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