Lund's MG Metro 1275 Engine Build
Discussion
Mini_Lund said:
The hardened baulk rings are currently out of stock on minispares, I'll have to give them a ring.
tom, the comp baulk rings are not required in a std road going box, they are a special part designed for hard comp use.either fit the expensive rover ones, or the cheap ones (though with the cheap ones its important to check all the clerances etc)
FWDRacer said:
If you have a standard Mk1 metro box it'll be running 3.44/1. In the unlikely event of you having a 3.1, there is good s/h money in the 3.1 diff if you chose not to use it. Don't bin it 
Personally with a tuned 1275 and 10" wheels I'd plump for using a 3.1 diff. The engine will have the legs to pull it and acceleration will still be more than adequate. It'll give you the best all round compromise (and that is excatly what a diff is - compromise!).
The 3.1 diff was the diff that came off the gearbox, which was attatched to a 998 A+ Metro Engine. Does this sound likely? Someone could have changed the diff.Personally with a tuned 1275 and 10" wheels I'd plump for using a 3.1 diff. The engine will have the legs to pull it and acceleration will still be more than adequate. It'll give you the best all round compromise (and that is excatly what a diff is - compromise!).
I proposed the question to Adrian Dodd and he seemed to think the 3.44.1 was the best way to go for the type of driving I'll be doing. I'm stuck between which diff to use! I could always change it at a later date if I choose to do so.
Thanks guys
I used my cousins mini for a few days which has an MG Metro 1275 bottom end with Keith Calver Stage 3 Cylinder head and the usual stage 1 kit.
This has 10's on it and a 3.44 diff.
I found myself driving it like a hooligan everywhere I went in it. Makes for a lairy blast about car.
However 70mph was about 4400-4500rpm so was a little noisy on my 10 mile motorway run to work.
With a 3.1 in there this would come down to about 3800rpm and still be almost as much fun on the back streets.
This has 10's on it and a 3.44 diff.
I found myself driving it like a hooligan everywhere I went in it. Makes for a lairy blast about car.
However 70mph was about 4400-4500rpm so was a little noisy on my 10 mile motorway run to work.
With a 3.1 in there this would come down to about 3800rpm and still be almost as much fun on the back streets.
Mini_Lund said:
I'm stuck between which diff to use! I could always change it at a later date if I choose to do so.
You could but it is an engine out job. You'll be well p*ssed 
. Your 3.1 diff in 998cc box is unlikely - do a tooth count on the crwon wheel and pinion and then post it on this thread. FWDRacer said:
Mini_Lund said:
I'm stuck between which diff to use! I could always change it at a later date if I choose to do so.
You could but it is an engine out job. You'll be well p*ssed You know me well! Ah bugger this, I'm going to use the 3.44.1 - Mr AC Dodd also said so 
And as for the baulk rings, I'll buy the genuine Rover ones. Although, these seem to give up at 40,000miles ...
ETA:
FWDRacer said:
do a tooth count on the crwon wheel and pinion and then post it on this thread.
I think I counted 19 on the pinion and 59 on the crownwheel.MiniSpares Order;
Required Geabox and Diff Parts;
ADU7619 - ROLLER SINGLE TYPE FOR HOLDING 1ST MOTION SHA... 1
AAU1365 - ROLLER DOUBLE FOR MAINSHAFT IN GEARBOX,RHP GE... 1
22G2033 - BAULK RING GENUINE ROVER ... 4
13H9513 - NEEDLE ROLLER 1ST MOTION/LAYSHAFT 4 SYNC... 1
22G2583 - DIFFERENTIAL PIN GENUINE... 1
DAM6624 - PLANET GEAR IN DIFFERENTIAL... 2
DAM5071 - WASHER THRUST WITH LIP FOR PLANET GEAR,A PLUS... 2
- - -
Additional Parts;
GLP138 - OIL PUMP 1300 A PLUS SLOT DRIVE... 1
C-AHT54 - OIL PIPE HITECH CENTRAL PICKUP GEARBOX... 1
Order total: £242.21
Edited by Mini_Lund on Monday 20th April 19:55
minimatt1967 said:
59/19=3.10ish, sounds more like an 84 on 1000 engine to me, unless its one of the Metro 1.0 HLE 'economy' engines, I beleive these use the 3.1 final drive.
Funny you say that, Graham mentioned something about a HLE or HLS engine, as he was also rather puzzled. He had an old workshop manual with guides how to strip gearboxes/diffs and rebuild, in this book he has a list of diff's and what they were fitted to. He has many gearboxes in his house, from what I can gather he's rebuilding a different box to the one I gave him, I think its a Goldseal box he's rebuilding as it has a 3.44 diff and casing. We'll soon see!
minimadmotorman said:
Going from an 850 to a modded 1293 is going to totally transform your car.
I hope your ready for it
Yeah, I think I'll take it easy! To me it will be like a rocket going off, I'll have the better brakes to help stop and the experience of putting the power down from the 850. I'm expecting alot from this 1293, it has alot to live upto I hope your ready for it
minimadmotorman said:
Don't get me wrong. A 1275 mini isn't going to beat modern hot hatches but it instantly becomes a very fun little car.
When I first got an MG lump in my Jet Black I loved it. Now I'm building a turbo lump for my current mini with a projected output of above 150bhp.
Sounds brilliant, make a thread on here and update it.When I first got an MG lump in my Jet Black I loved it. Now I'm building a turbo lump for my current mini with a projected output of above 150bhp.
Oh and I got some heavy duty bolts to replace the ones that where eaten by the flywheel. I also bought the countersunk screws, I'll cut them down to size.
Tom
Guys, what would you say if I said my Cam Fouls one of my con-rods?
I part assembled the Duplex chain and used Loctite on the countersunk bolts;
I'm a bit of a noob.
I have now set up the timing chain correctly, with it at TDC and the cam at the 2'o clock position. However, not all of the bolts will fasten into the plate, i.e the front plate is aligned nicely for some bolts but the plate fouls the holes for some others. In other words, I'll have to crack the loctite and re-do it all yet again. This time I must get it right and all perfectly aligned. I bet British Leyland didnt even bother with perfect fitment.
I'm also not exactly working in the cleanest of environments. The garage door was open and a gust of wind blew s
t everywhere 
I figured I'm no good at anything, in particular so I'm off to the pub.
I part assembled the Duplex chain and used Loctite on the countersunk bolts;
I'm a bit of a noob.
I have now set up the timing chain correctly, with it at TDC and the cam at the 2'o clock position. However, not all of the bolts will fasten into the plate, i.e the front plate is aligned nicely for some bolts but the plate fouls the holes for some others. In other words, I'll have to crack the loctite and re-do it all yet again. This time I must get it right and all perfectly aligned. I bet British Leyland didnt even bother with perfect fitment. I'm also not exactly working in the cleanest of environments. The garage door was open and a gust of wind blew s
t everywhere I figured I'm no good at anything, in particular so I'm off to the pub.
Edited by Mini_Lund on Wednesday 6th May 20:48
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