Project Peterborough
Discussion
That Moke could be done a little better...
...with box section re-enforcing the "A" pillars and sills with a diagonal or two going to a rear roll cage similar to Guff II's...
...simple body work following the original lines...
...and painted a nice color (BMW Dakar Yellow perhaps).
A few choice options for driving anywhere near Peterborough...
...could come in handy.
...with box section re-enforcing the "A" pillars and sills with a diagonal or two going to a rear roll cage similar to Guff II's...
...simple body work following the original lines...
...and painted a nice color (BMW Dakar Yellow perhaps).
A few choice options for driving anywhere near Peterborough...
...could come in handy.
I have some unfinished business from Guff II to take care of. FrankenFiat I failed because the oil pump was knackered and it chewed the cam' belt to bits. I know FrankenFiat II runs. Not very well due to fueling and exhaust issues but it runs. Will the Guff inlet manifold and bike carb's work?
I have an opportunity to find out.
I need to remove the heater matrix from Peterborough so the carb's and manifold fit.
Probably just as well really because someone has tried to cut the thing in half with a hacksaw.
I had to take the wiper out this time because the vents were stuck down with black silicone.
This is now officially junk.
I don't have any black silicone so to cover the holes in the bulkhead I'm using black duct tape.
I'd better get ready for my night shift.
I have an opportunity to find out.
I need to remove the heater matrix from Peterborough so the carb's and manifold fit.
Probably just as well really because someone has tried to cut the thing in half with a hacksaw.
I had to take the wiper out this time because the vents were stuck down with black silicone.
This is now officially junk.
I don't have any black silicone so to cover the holes in the bulkhead I'm using black duct tape.
I'd better get ready for my night shift.
For the time being this is an experiment in an effort to prove concept. Long term plans for Peterborough are on hold for Jesus's birthday and my neglected Fantasia. Yep I'll be cycling to work again.
So I stripped the old manifold out and fitted the newly painted Guff one...
...the 4x4 has a brake servo (I know; drivers aids make crap drivers) so I will have to modify the inlet manifold (if it works and I decide it's staying there) at some point. I may need to anyway as the manifold length was calculated based on FrankenFiat I being a 1.4 and this version is roughly 150cc less.
TDM manifolds trial fitted for now...
...so far so good. Due to the difference in the widths of the Guff mounting plate and the original cast manifold I'm going to need at least 1.5mm washers so I'll spend some of my night shift making those.
I'm not the religious type. You could have easily guessed than as I have just spend my Sunday afternoon under a Panda bonnet. Sometimes when you are on a Norfolk driveway trying to create something some beardy bloke sat on cloud number ten...
...has to bloody show off.
That's my cue to get ready for work.
So I stripped the old manifold out and fitted the newly painted Guff one...
...the 4x4 has a brake servo (I know; drivers aids make crap drivers) so I will have to modify the inlet manifold (if it works and I decide it's staying there) at some point. I may need to anyway as the manifold length was calculated based on FrankenFiat I being a 1.4 and this version is roughly 150cc less.
TDM manifolds trial fitted for now...
...so far so good. Due to the difference in the widths of the Guff mounting plate and the original cast manifold I'm going to need at least 1.5mm washers so I'll spend some of my night shift making those.
I'm not the religious type. You could have easily guessed than as I have just spend my Sunday afternoon under a Panda bonnet. Sometimes when you are on a Norfolk driveway trying to create something some beardy bloke sat on cloud number ten...
...has to bloody show off.
That's my cue to get ready for work.
So today...
...my usual cue to get ready for work was interrupted.
The carb's are in place.
...I'm using a Cavalier SRi130 matrix (for now) so I don't loose water everywhere...
...and the Uno choke cable is a near perfect fit.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCSk5XzGbYY&fea...
Concept proven.
...my usual cue to get ready for work was interrupted.
The carb's are in place.
...I'm using a Cavalier SRi130 matrix (for now) so I don't loose water everywhere...
...and the Uno choke cable is a near perfect fit.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCSk5XzGbYY&fea...
Concept proven.
A bit of problem solving now I've solved everyone else's. I need to control the fuel pump speed so I don't get the same over-fueling issues I had with the Weber carb'.
A variable resistor in line would work but most automotive ones are light, dash board light or rheostat ones and are marked. I need a clean, plain, simple twin terminal one to fit next to the switch....
....hmmmmm....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Capri-mk3-dashboard...
Okay now I need to take car of the throttle and choke cables before I can move the car enough to get to the exhaust (again).
A variable resistor in line would work but most automotive ones are light, dash board light or rheostat ones and are marked. I need a clean, plain, simple twin terminal one to fit next to the switch....
....hmmmmm....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Capri-mk3-dashboard...
Okay now I need to take car of the throttle and choke cables before I can move the car enough to get to the exhaust (again).
Exhaust take 2.
First a tip. If you don't want to take the radiator out (today I couldn't be arsed) use the adapter from a "T" bar and an air ratchet. Any longer and you're up against the radiator any shorter and you can't do the lower nuts.
With the Guff exhaust in place the front section looked perfect...
...but the rear was up against the prop' guard in the middle of the floor so I got my grinder, welder and about seven inches of stainless pipe...
...not very good but the best I can do with the bits I had laying about.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyFVXtlKqu0&fea...
To be honest I'm a little disappointed how quiet it is but stealth can't be a bad thing.
Something that was a pretty bad thing; come to think of it terrible was the clutch cable snapping as I was backing the car on to my drive. Because there's no brake servo the usually useless brakes were non-existent. This could have been pretty bad but...
...there was a house to stop me.
Mostly cosmetic. Bent bumper bracket and a tail light.
Oh and a clutch cable.
First a tip. If you don't want to take the radiator out (today I couldn't be arsed) use the adapter from a "T" bar and an air ratchet. Any longer and you're up against the radiator any shorter and you can't do the lower nuts.
With the Guff exhaust in place the front section looked perfect...
...but the rear was up against the prop' guard in the middle of the floor so I got my grinder, welder and about seven inches of stainless pipe...
...not very good but the best I can do with the bits I had laying about.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyFVXtlKqu0&fea...
To be honest I'm a little disappointed how quiet it is but stealth can't be a bad thing.
Something that was a pretty bad thing; come to think of it terrible was the clutch cable snapping as I was backing the car on to my drive. Because there's no brake servo the usually useless brakes were non-existent. This could have been pretty bad but...
...there was a house to stop me.
Mostly cosmetic. Bent bumper bracket and a tail light.
Oh and a clutch cable.
You may have noticed the other two in the background...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
My Fantasia and Panda 750 (Guff II).
The plan was to use the 4x4 through Winter and restore the Fantasia. I hadn't counted on the cylinder head being held on with car body filler and most of the body and mechanical parts held together with black silicone (normal window stuff not even Tiger Seal).
A for the 750 and funny you should mention RetroRides. Clive's V8 Panda from Retrocar magazine a few years ago my inspire what's next for that car.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
My Fantasia and Panda 750 (Guff II).
The plan was to use the 4x4 through Winter and restore the Fantasia. I hadn't counted on the cylinder head being held on with car body filler and most of the body and mechanical parts held together with black silicone (normal window stuff not even Tiger Seal).
A for the 750 and funny you should mention RetroRides. Clive's V8 Panda from Retrocar magazine a few years ago my inspire what's next for that car.
I was going to mess about with Guff II to try and harvest the clutch cable and see if it fitted the 4x4 today but life got in the way.
Also in retrospect it would have been a bit of a faff when this...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Panda-800cc-1-0-1-0...
...is already on it's way.
Along with one of these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Throttle-Cable...
...I was thinking of using a high quality bicycle cable but that would cost more and be more of a faff.
Back at work tomorrow so hopefully the cables will arrive in time for my first night shift Monday. In the mean time I need to pop the carb's and manifold off so I can fit a servomebob and get the brakes working.
Also in retrospect it would have been a bit of a faff when this...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Panda-800cc-1-0-1-0...
...is already on it's way.
Along with one of these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Throttle-Cable...
...I was thinking of using a high quality bicycle cable but that would cost more and be more of a faff.
Back at work tomorrow so hopefully the cables will arrive in time for my first night shift Monday. In the mean time I need to pop the carb's and manifold off so I can fit a servomebob and get the brakes working.
Just so I don't need to use the side of my house again; I'd better sort the brake servo out.
You'd think I planned that but the manifold length is based on the capacity of the engine not ergonomics.
I took the servomebob from a spare manifold...
...made a hole with a grinder (I know I could have used a step drill bit or a drill of any kind but grinders rule)...
...perfect fit. Just a spot of welding...
...paint...
...and it'll be ready to refit on my next day off.
You'd think I planned that but the manifold length is based on the capacity of the engine not ergonomics.
I took the servomebob from a spare manifold...
...made a hole with a grinder (I know I could have used a step drill bit or a drill of any kind but grinders rule)...
...perfect fit. Just a spot of welding...
...paint...
...and it'll be ready to refit on my next day off.
Well that was a damn sight more complicated than it needed to be. But I have solved a mystery that has plagued mankind for centuries.
What happens to odd socks?
They end up the same place as clutch cable spring clips.
Anyway another top tip for you...
...to keep your cables free for longer run a little bit of bike chain lube down the cable by filling the cap and the end and letting it seep through. I will take a few minutes but your cable could last a couple of years longer as a result.
I'm glad the carb's and bits weren't on as it the clip that holds the cable to the bulkhead would have been inaccessible, the coil bolts would have been a lot trickier to get to and the clamp at the bottom would have been a pain in the cheeks.
I had to use the cable spring clip from Guff II after an hour of searching with various lights, yoga positions and magnets (funny I didn't think it was a Friday) it's okay though as Guff may only need two pedals if my plan for that car comes together.
I've made a few revisions the Panda Moke idea.
Rather than try to fabricate a curved top bar straight pieces and a couple of 60' bends would be easier (as I don't have access to a roll cage sized pipe bender - Dear Santa...).
Also lighter structural work around the doors using the smaller box section I bought by mistake. I bought a length of 3x2 com instead of 3x2 inch.
Instead of using straight bar and bends on the rear hoop (like I did with Guff II) I like the look of this...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
...I also have a decision to make.
1/ Replace the original tail light cluster.
2/ Bumper mount tail lights with a smooth rear panel (a bit like a Land Rover Discovery or Freelander).
3/ Fiat Coupe' tail lights flushed into the rear panel.
4/ Fiat Coupe' tail lights flushed into the bumper.
That's how bored I was at work last night. I'll get back to work on the car when I'm finished being Santa's helper for the day.
Rather than try to fabricate a curved top bar straight pieces and a couple of 60' bends would be easier (as I don't have access to a roll cage sized pipe bender - Dear Santa...).
Also lighter structural work around the doors using the smaller box section I bought by mistake. I bought a length of 3x2 com instead of 3x2 inch.
Instead of using straight bar and bends on the rear hoop (like I did with Guff II) I like the look of this...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
...I also have a decision to make.
1/ Replace the original tail light cluster.
2/ Bumper mount tail lights with a smooth rear panel (a bit like a Land Rover Discovery or Freelander).
3/ Fiat Coupe' tail lights flushed into the rear panel.
4/ Fiat Coupe' tail lights flushed into the bumper.
That's how bored I was at work last night. I'll get back to work on the car when I'm finished being Santa's helper for the day.
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