Project Peterborough
Discussion
So the regulator did a grand total of geof all!
Still I tried it inline at the pump first before drilling another hole in my dash for it.
The cable came with a little clamp in a baggie...
...I decided to use a wire clamp instead as two screws are better than one and the block is big enough to hold with a pair of pliers to tighten the screws against.
All done...
...and ready for a spin up the road.
Literally.
Bare in mind this set up was originally destined for a quarter mile car (Guff II) the engine was very boggy up to 2,500rpm and then took off like a scalded cat. Brilliant!
Great fun, but not ideal for the road (my neighbors appreciated it) and definitely next to useless off road.
I was that distracted holding on I forgot to prime the carb's and she cut out on my driveway.
Still sounded superb, went like a rocket and I'm sure without the extra weight of the rear axle and transfer box the standard two wheel drive Panda will be even quicker with these bits under the bonnet.
Tool of the job today goes to this...
...my antique breadknife. I can shave with the thing and as it's proper Shefield Steel it cuts everything with ease. Radiator hose, fuel lines, connector blocks, cable covers and even my sandwiches.
Okay so I'm back to the drawing board for fuel delivery and I was thinking of my X-1/9 Weber. It should be jetted for the engine and it should be simple to plumb in. Also the nature of the beast should be more torque bias ideal for off road and practical for road use. The only problem I foresee is the lack of vacuum advance. So I have an Uno inlet manifold (with the four threaded holes) and the servo attachment from a Cinquecento Sporting.
It took a little convincing to make it fit...
...but it should work-ish in theory.
Still I tried it inline at the pump first before drilling another hole in my dash for it.
The cable came with a little clamp in a baggie...
...I decided to use a wire clamp instead as two screws are better than one and the block is big enough to hold with a pair of pliers to tighten the screws against.
All done...
...and ready for a spin up the road.
Literally.
Bare in mind this set up was originally destined for a quarter mile car (Guff II) the engine was very boggy up to 2,500rpm and then took off like a scalded cat. Brilliant!
Great fun, but not ideal for the road (my neighbors appreciated it) and definitely next to useless off road.
I was that distracted holding on I forgot to prime the carb's and she cut out on my driveway.
Still sounded superb, went like a rocket and I'm sure without the extra weight of the rear axle and transfer box the standard two wheel drive Panda will be even quicker with these bits under the bonnet.
Tool of the job today goes to this...
...my antique breadknife. I can shave with the thing and as it's proper Shefield Steel it cuts everything with ease. Radiator hose, fuel lines, connector blocks, cable covers and even my sandwiches.
Okay so I'm back to the drawing board for fuel delivery and I was thinking of my X-1/9 Weber. It should be jetted for the engine and it should be simple to plumb in. Also the nature of the beast should be more torque bias ideal for off road and practical for road use. The only problem I foresee is the lack of vacuum advance. So I have an Uno inlet manifold (with the four threaded holes) and the servo attachment from a Cinquecento Sporting.
It took a little convincing to make it fit...
...but it should work-ish in theory.
Okay that didn't go according to plan.
I was supposed to fit the X-1/9 Weber today but noticed a few things first.
The throttle linkage was all wrong. I could try to find an X-1/9 cable and shorten it to fit. That would be a delay followed by a faff. I could use the Panda linkage but the throttle rotates the other way and it wouldn't be a straight fit. I tried adapting it to fit but in the end...
...I had to cut the X-1/9 linkage at the elbow and weld the Panda linkage to it backwards.
With the cable holder adapted to match...
...I think it's ready-ish to fit.
I was supposed to fit the X-1/9 Weber today but noticed a few things first.
The throttle linkage was all wrong. I could try to find an X-1/9 cable and shorten it to fit. That would be a delay followed by a faff. I could use the Panda linkage but the throttle rotates the other way and it wouldn't be a straight fit. I tried adapting it to fit but in the end...
...I had to cut the X-1/9 linkage at the elbow and weld the Panda linkage to it backwards.
With the cable holder adapted to match...
...I think it's ready-ish to fit.
Edited by Liquid Knight on Sunday 29th December 18:58
Indoor person said:
What have you done to the cereal box?
Me said:
Br-br-br-br-brap! We is doin' it old school!
The carb's fitted-ish...
...but it only works on full or three quarter choke.
I shut the choke down once the engine was warm and it died.
Started again and tried the throttle and choke together and she didn't sound right at all so I opened the choke and tried starting throttle only. Dead.
Hmmmmm, I put the remote starter in place and worked the throttle by hand looking down the barrels of the carb'. The throttle jets weren't squirting fuel into the carb' at all.
Who would have thought sitting on a shelf for a couple of years would knacker a carb'?
So my options are...
1/ Strip and rebuild the X-1/9 carb' and hope it works.
2/ Rig up a proper fuel pump regulator and use the Golf carb'.
3/ Contemplate the darkside. EFI!
I envision EFI involving the construction of a silicon foundry and a chip fab...
So making the 4x4 into a van has been a bit of a curse and I'm not using my Fantasia to collect engines any more...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331098497390?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
...I've got myself a proper Fiat van instead and may end up with a pick up shell as well.
For now the plan is M.O.T and use so no long winded thread where ultimately nothing happens. Unless a JTD engine and JCB turbo turn up cheap.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331098497390?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
...I've got myself a proper Fiat van instead and may end up with a pick up shell as well.
For now the plan is M.O.T and use so no long winded thread where ultimately nothing happens. Unless a JTD engine and JCB turbo turn up cheap.
The diaphragm on the complete carb' is nearly new and doesn't need replacing. The leakage is probably caused by this...
...where the new diaphragm was fitted ages ago the surface was over-prepared and the cast "O" ring filed down on two edges. So I'll be using the cast throttle pump linkage mount (I don't know if it has a proper name but that's what it does) from the old carb' (on the left) and some instant gasket (not black silicone) to see if that cures it.
Failing that there's always the original carb' with a better fuel regulator (that I would have tried first if people celebrated Jesus's birthday in June instead of stealing the Pagan Winter solstice).
...where the new diaphragm was fitted ages ago the surface was over-prepared and the cast "O" ring filed down on two edges. So I'll be using the cast throttle pump linkage mount (I don't know if it has a proper name but that's what it does) from the old carb' (on the left) and some instant gasket (not black silicone) to see if that cures it.
Failing that there's always the original carb' with a better fuel regulator (that I would have tried first if people celebrated Jesus's birthday in June instead of stealing the Pagan Winter solstice).
All the festive overtime and double time was going to go on the raw materials needed to Moke the 4x4 this month and I was hoping to have it ready by my birthday in March but the amount of Tax and National Insurance I've paid this month means that simply I can't afford to do it.
Even if I cut the roll cage out of the Guff racing Panda and reuse it in the 4x4 Moke I'd still come up short. That's not including the IVA/SVA if needed.
Considering the amount of work it will take to M.O.T the car this Summer and the fact that despite several attempts to get the engine working properly it simply won't I have draw a line somewhere before I take a big hammer to it.
VOSA will be receiving a full report about this car and whether they decide to audit the M.O.T station is up to them.
I'm breaking and scrapping the car to ensure it never puts anyone at risk again.
M.O.T fail items I've noticed...
All four tyres have perished side walls and the spare has a puncture.
The drivers side sill looked solid until I chipped away the filler and black silicone to reveal not only was the sill rubbish but the jacking point and floor was gone as well.
The passenger side sill had filler and silicone at each end.
The front brake pads were nearly new on the drivers side, nearly worn out on the passenger side.
The rear brakes were non-existent. Bodged brake lines from the centre to the hubs. A seized solid passenger side wheel cylinder with the front brake shoe unsecured (loose) and the rear brake shoe held in place with a 10mm bolt and nylock nut. The drivers side wheel cylinder leaked brake fluid and the handbrake was completely seized as well.
Both bottom ball joints and track control arm ends had failed with excessive play on the drivers side bottom ball joint.
The exhaust back box was held onto the centre section with black silicone and patch welded by someone who I assume was either blind or never used a welder before in their life.
Both the inner and outer CV boots on the driver side drive shaft were split and bodged with black silicone, the gearbox leaked oil from the inner CV.
Even though the fuel tank was repaired with filler and black silicone it leaked if more than 7 liters of petrol was added.
The rear floor of the car was excessively corroded around the rear seat belt anchors, to remedy this the rear seat was removed.
The front floor was excessively corroded around the driver and passenger seat mounts. This was hidden with black silicone and what appeared to be underseal.
The floor underneath the car was excessively corroded around the passenger side front leaf spring hanger, passenger side shock mount, drivers side rear leaf spring hanger and the drivers side rear inner wheel arch was a combination of cardboard, filler and black silicone.
The windscreen wiper did not work correctly, the washer jets did not work at all.
The drivers side brake light did not work, the reverse light did not work, the passenger side side repeater did not work, when the rear screen heater was switched on the headlights would fail.
The horn did not work.
The battery clamp was nonfunctional due to excessive corrosion.
Advisory items...
Windscreen in chipped and scratched condition.
Corrosion around the windscreen surround.
The bonnet release mechanism was nonfunctional.
In my opinion there is no way all of these faults came to be between the period of the vehicles M.O.T on the 9th July 2013 and my purchase of the vehicle 29th October 2013 and I recommend that...
Shaun Hagen Motor Services Limited
The Workshop
Maple Road
King's Lynn
PE34 3AJ
...be audited for allowing such a dangerous vehicle to pass the Ministry of Transport assessment.
This vehicle has been declared a mechanical write off and will be destroyed at the earliest opportunity to ensure the safety of others.
Even if I cut the roll cage out of the Guff racing Panda and reuse it in the 4x4 Moke I'd still come up short. That's not including the IVA/SVA if needed.
Considering the amount of work it will take to M.O.T the car this Summer and the fact that despite several attempts to get the engine working properly it simply won't I have draw a line somewhere before I take a big hammer to it.
VOSA will be receiving a full report about this car and whether they decide to audit the M.O.T station is up to them.
I'm breaking and scrapping the car to ensure it never puts anyone at risk again.
M.O.T fail items I've noticed...
All four tyres have perished side walls and the spare has a puncture.
The drivers side sill looked solid until I chipped away the filler and black silicone to reveal not only was the sill rubbish but the jacking point and floor was gone as well.
The passenger side sill had filler and silicone at each end.
The front brake pads were nearly new on the drivers side, nearly worn out on the passenger side.
The rear brakes were non-existent. Bodged brake lines from the centre to the hubs. A seized solid passenger side wheel cylinder with the front brake shoe unsecured (loose) and the rear brake shoe held in place with a 10mm bolt and nylock nut. The drivers side wheel cylinder leaked brake fluid and the handbrake was completely seized as well.
Both bottom ball joints and track control arm ends had failed with excessive play on the drivers side bottom ball joint.
The exhaust back box was held onto the centre section with black silicone and patch welded by someone who I assume was either blind or never used a welder before in their life.
Both the inner and outer CV boots on the driver side drive shaft were split and bodged with black silicone, the gearbox leaked oil from the inner CV.
Even though the fuel tank was repaired with filler and black silicone it leaked if more than 7 liters of petrol was added.
The rear floor of the car was excessively corroded around the rear seat belt anchors, to remedy this the rear seat was removed.
The front floor was excessively corroded around the driver and passenger seat mounts. This was hidden with black silicone and what appeared to be underseal.
The floor underneath the car was excessively corroded around the passenger side front leaf spring hanger, passenger side shock mount, drivers side rear leaf spring hanger and the drivers side rear inner wheel arch was a combination of cardboard, filler and black silicone.
The windscreen wiper did not work correctly, the washer jets did not work at all.
The drivers side brake light did not work, the reverse light did not work, the passenger side side repeater did not work, when the rear screen heater was switched on the headlights would fail.
The horn did not work.
The battery clamp was nonfunctional due to excessive corrosion.
Advisory items...
Windscreen in chipped and scratched condition.
Corrosion around the windscreen surround.
The bonnet release mechanism was nonfunctional.
In my opinion there is no way all of these faults came to be between the period of the vehicles M.O.T on the 9th July 2013 and my purchase of the vehicle 29th October 2013 and I recommend that...
Shaun Hagen Motor Services Limited
The Workshop
Maple Road
King's Lynn
PE34 3AJ
...be audited for allowing such a dangerous vehicle to pass the Ministry of Transport assessment.
This vehicle has been declared a mechanical write off and will be destroyed at the earliest opportunity to ensure the safety of others.
Gassing Station | Alfa Romeo, Fiat & Lancia | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff