Inlet Manifold Gasket

Inlet Manifold Gasket

Author
Discussion

TheGolfGuy

Original Poster:

69 posts

141 months

Wednesday 2nd October 2013
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Just a quick one please folks. I'm changing my inlet manifold this weekend. Do I need to replace the gasket or can I use the one already in place (no known issues). Thanks. smile

paintman

7,698 posts

191 months

Wednesday 2nd October 2013
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Best practice to renew. You don't want to do the job then find you have leakage issues.

bearman68

4,665 posts

133 months

Wednesday 2nd October 2013
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^^ This, but if you want to seal it without replacing, I often use Silicone RTV (but make sure it is RTV) normal mastic don't work.

TheGolfGuy

Original Poster:

69 posts

141 months

Wednesday 2nd October 2013
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Great stuff, thanks!

shoehorn

686 posts

144 months

Thursday 3rd October 2013
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bearman68 said:
^^ This, but if you want to seal it without replacing, I often use Silicone RTV (but make sure it is RTV) normal mastic don't work.
Never put sealant on manifold gaskets,if anything a smear of grease.

bearman68

4,665 posts

133 months

Thursday 3rd October 2013
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Well, each to their own, but I've found RTV works very well on inlet stuff (and rocker covers, and a whole host of other things).
Wouldn't use it if I had a new gasket, (or with a gasket), but as a recovery plan, it's hard to beat.

paintman

7,698 posts

191 months

Thursday 3rd October 2013
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shoehorn said:
Never put sealant on manifold gaskets,if anything a smear of grease.
Suggest you check for your particular engine, if there are coolant passages that go from the head into the inlet manifold some vehicle manufacturers specify the use of sealant around water ports - Rover V8 springs to mind for one & they specify Hylomar

shoehorn

686 posts

144 months

Thursday 3rd October 2013
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paintman said:
Suggest you check for your particular engine, if there are coolant passages that go from the head into the inlet manifold some vehicle manufacturers specify the use of sealant around water ports - Rover V8 springs to mind for one & they specify Hylomar
Most vehicle manufacturers have been using rubber rings on inlet manifolds for the inlet ports and the water ports and have been for some time now,if you are having to use sealant and a gasket then the mating surfaces are not clean or your gasket is no good,simple.

If its a paper type gasket it should be replaced every time,it takes minutes with a pen and scissors(or small hammer)and a suitable piece of card to make one if you don`t want to or cant get one.

I have a RV8 and have repaired many over the years,the sealant goes at the ends of the rubber valley seals at either end where it meets the little nick where the block and heads joint,not and never on the port face.
And I have never felt the need to put sealant on a soft coated tin gasket on the water ports,defeats the object of the soft coating.

Also I would never use hylomar on anything.

paintman

7,698 posts

191 months

Friday 4th October 2013
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So what do you use on your ram housing & plenum chamber?

dblack1

230 posts

162 months

Friday 4th October 2013
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shoehorn said:
If its a paper type gasket it should be replaced every time,it takes minutes with a pen and scissors(or small hammer)and a suitable piece of card to make one if you don`t want to or cant get one.

I have a RV8 and have repaired many over the years,the sealant goes at the ends of the rubber valley seals at either end where it meets the little nick where the block and heads joint,not and never on the port face.
And I have never felt the need to put sealant on a soft coated tin gasket on the water ports,defeats the object of the soft coating.
I couldn't have said it better myself. Paper gaskets get replaced, you won't want to reuse them anyway. Most other gaskets can be reused, and only need to be sealed near sharp edges (where a gasket goes around a sharp bend and crevices.

shoehorn

686 posts

144 months

Friday 4th October 2013
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paintman said:
So what do you use on your ram housing & plenum chamber?
Wellseal.

CrutyRammers

13,735 posts

199 months

Friday 4th October 2013
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shoehorn said:
Also I would never use hylomar on anything.
Why not, out of interest?

wildoliver

8,790 posts

217 months

Friday 4th October 2013
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CrutyRammers said:
shoehorn said:
Also I would never use hylomar on anything.
Why not, out of interest?
Probably because it's crap.

shoehorn

686 posts

144 months

Friday 4th October 2013
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wildoliver said:
Probably because it's crap.
smile

CrutyRammers

13,735 posts

199 months

Friday 4th October 2013
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Yeah I was hoping for something a bit, y'know, more specific.

wildoliver

8,790 posts

217 months

Friday 4th October 2013
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CrutyRammers said:
Yeah I was hoping for something a bit, y'know, more specific.
I haven't used the stuff for years, when I did I was 17 and like most young lads thought it was too good to be true, I tried a variety of jobs mainly on an A-Series.

Rocker box gasket - Too tight to buy a new one (50p) so naturally a £3 tube of hylomar was the way forward, the problem was the old gasket had been over compressed so was now a rock hard oil impregnated brittle ring, apply hylomar liberally, refit. Leaks all over. Buy new gasket. Spend best part of an hour pulling rocker gear and push rods out to get rid of the excess hylomar now floating around the engine. Hateful stuff.

Front timing cover - constantly leaked, new gaskets achieved little, eventually sick of pulling the front of engine off tried Hylomar. Still leaked.

A friend used it on a headgasket. Result one dead engine when the excess blobs of hylomar blocked the crank oil ways.

I've since grown to hate the stuff having tried the bodgit approach when I was a lad and realised it didn't work I do jobs properly now, every time I see any sign of gasket goop on an engine straight away you know the previous owner has cut corners, it just doesn't work, it's not necessary if mating faces are clean and parts undamaged and a new gasket is used, it's totally unnecessary, at best it's a waste of money, at worst it can cause damage. If parts are damaged it usually doesn't work either because it's crap at it's job, the time and money is better spent repairing the surface or replacing damaged components and doing the job right first time, because if you don't you will be doing it a couple of weeks later anyway.

For me it belongs with the emergency fanbelts that you cut to size and stick together with a metal spigot, the metal balls you put in the petrol tank to replicate leaded fuel, the vortex generators for carbs and fuel lines, redex, oil treatments, special magical spark plugs and any one of another thousand products designed to part a fool from his money promising an easy cheap solution to a problem that's solvable easily and cheaply anyway but offering a solution that usually ends up expensive and not working.

paintman

7,698 posts

191 months

Friday 4th October 2013
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^^^ And there you have it.
The most common mistake with any sealant no matter what make it is. Slather it all over & use excessive amounts & it will likely cause you problems. Especially rtv or silicone as that squeezed out inside the joint can break away & you have a piece of plastic string floating around the engine.

Generally, trying to re-use old gaskets is a mistake & a false economy. Unless you particularly enjoy taking the same engine to bits again. The exception would be as a temporary repair if a new one is not immediately available - or solid copper headgaskets as used on old British bikes (incl my own)which can be annealed & reused. I've lost count of the number of paper gaskets I've made from either proper gasket paper or in my younger days from cereal boxeslaugh

I had a feeling your answer was going to be Wellseal - very good it is too.

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

256 months

Friday 4th October 2013
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"Bad workmen blame their tools" as the saying goes. I have used blue Hylomar almost exclusively as a gasket sealant (not as gasket replacement) for many, many years without any problems.

paintman

7,698 posts

191 months

Friday 4th October 2013
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If its good enough for Rolls Royce on aircraft engines.......
(Wellseal & Hylomar were developed for & with Rolls Royce for aircraft engines)

CrutyRammers

13,735 posts

199 months

Friday 4th October 2013
quotequote all
wildoliver said:
I haven't used the stuff for years, when I did I was 17 and like most young lads thought it was too good to be true, I tried a variety of jobs mainly on an A-Series.

Rocker box gasket - Too tight to buy a new one (50p) so naturally a £3 tube of hylomar was the way forward, the problem was the old gasket had been over compressed so was now a rock hard oil impregnated brittle ring, apply hylomar liberally, refit. Leaks all over. Buy new gasket. Spend best part of an hour pulling rocker gear and push rods out to get rid of the excess hylomar now floating around the engine. Hateful stuff.

Front timing cover - constantly leaked, new gaskets achieved little, eventually sick of pulling the front of engine off tried Hylomar. Still leaked.

A friend used it on a headgasket. Result one dead engine when the excess blobs of hylomar blocked the crank oil ways.
Yeah, but that's all examples of using it wrong though. You're not supposed to put it on head gaskets, nor is the blue stuff (from memory) supposed to be a sealant on its own (red for that I think, quite different stuff).
Only ask as I've used it in the past on home made (cereal packet) gaskets with no problems. Though I've used RTV silicone in place of a couple of hard-to-find gaskets more recently as it just seems easier to use.