Lack of heat from the heater.
Discussion
OK I know the heater is not supposed to be very good in the Wedges (350i 1987)but I have plenty of blow but absolutely NO heat at all. I have the switch panel of but can not see any way of getting into the heater matrix or the heater water flow valve, I have hot water going to the heater.
Has any body got any clues? Or any suggestions as to a way of fixing it with out going into the heater innards.
Many thanks
Has any body got any clues? Or any suggestions as to a way of fixing it with out going into the heater innards.
Many thanks
In my 1987 350i there was no flow valve. The air was guided by flaps, one for up to the window or down to the footwell and one for flow through the matrix or not.
Because the matrix is covering only half of the air box most air passes by unheated, mainly to the two vents in front of the dashboard. Maybe the warm air flap in your car is disconnected from the operating wheel and stuck in the closed position.
This year I removed the whole heater assembly ( had to remove the dashboard to do that ) and replaced the heater matrix with a bigger one, so all the air is now passing through the matrix, and mounted a flow valve in the incoming water hose.
Lots of work but resulting in loads of very warm air, also through the two dashboard air vents wich is very nice on chilly evenings with the roof down.
Because the matrix is covering only half of the air box most air passes by unheated, mainly to the two vents in front of the dashboard. Maybe the warm air flap in your car is disconnected from the operating wheel and stuck in the closed position.
This year I removed the whole heater assembly ( had to remove the dashboard to do that ) and replaced the heater matrix with a bigger one, so all the air is now passing through the matrix, and mounted a flow valve in the incoming water hose.
Lots of work but resulting in loads of very warm air, also through the two dashboard air vents wich is very nice on chilly evenings with the roof down.
If you feel the water pipes at the back of the engine do they get hot - first the flow, then the return?
If not then the matrix might need flushing out with a hose. Take the pipes off the engine (let it cool first) then drain and catch any coolant, and flush one way, then the other. Hot water might be better if you can afford it!
If not then the matrix might need flushing out with a hose. Take the pipes off the engine (let it cool first) then drain and catch any coolant, and flush one way, then the other. Hot water might be better if you can afford it!
erik350i said:
In my 1987 350i there was no flow valve. The air was guided by flaps, one for up to the window or down to the footwell and one for flow through the matrix or not.
Because the matrix is covering only half of the air box most air passes by unheated, mainly to the two vents in front of the dashboard. Maybe the warm air flap in your car is disconnected from the operating wheel and stuck in the closed position.
This year I removed the whole heater assembly ( had to remove the dashboard to do that ) and replaced the heater matrix with a bigger one, so all the air is now passing through the matrix, and mounted a flow valve in the incoming water hose.
Lots of work but resulting in loads of very warm air, also through the two dashboard air vents witch is very nice on chilly evenings with the roof down.
The left right knurled knob has a link arm that is attached to an arm (flat plastic ABS) that goes through the the front of the box this gives the direction of air flow up, dash or down and seems to work ok. The right hand knob gives the amount of heat. All the knobs seen to operate the levers weather there is anything on the other end of the left had knob (Heat) is open to question. Because the matrix is covering only half of the air box most air passes by unheated, mainly to the two vents in front of the dashboard. Maybe the warm air flap in your car is disconnected from the operating wheel and stuck in the closed position.
This year I removed the whole heater assembly ( had to remove the dashboard to do that ) and replaced the heater matrix with a bigger one, so all the air is now passing through the matrix, and mounted a flow valve in the incoming water hose.
Lots of work but resulting in loads of very warm air, also through the two dashboard air vents witch is very nice on chilly evenings with the roof down.
No hot air is usually an indication that there may be an air lock. The heater control valve should be set to Hot when filling up your car with water. Start your car with your header cap removed - set the heater to max, bring the car up to temp with higher than idle revs topping up the header tank and then switch the heating on. If bubbles appear and then subside and you get hot air - it was an airlock...
GV said:
No hot air is usually an indication that there may be an air lock. The heater control valve should be set to Hot when filling up your car with water. Start your car with your header cap removed - set the heater to max, bring the car up to temp with higher than idle revs topping up the header tank and then switch the heating on. If bubbles appear and then subside and you get hot air - it was an airlock...
Ok I will give that a go before I try and get int the heater box.Thanks
erik350i said:
In my 1987 350i there was no flow valve. The air was guided by flaps, one for up to the window or down to the footwell and one for flow through the matrix or not.
Because the matrix is covering only half of the air box most air passes by unheated, mainly to the two vents in front of the dashboard. Maybe the warm air flap in your car is disconnected from the operating wheel and stuck in the closed position.
This year I removed the whole heater assembly ( had to remove the dashboard to do that ) and replaced the heater matrix with a bigger one, so all the air is now passing through the matrix, and mounted a flow valve in the incoming water hose.
Lots of work but resulting in loads of very warm air, also through the two dashboard air vents wich is very nice on chilly evenings with the roof down.
Do you have any photos of how got the heater out? for a start how do you remove the dash? Would that sort of info be in the Steve Head book. I suppose I should look out for one. I have only had the Wedge since the last week of July (6 weeks) before that I had a Chimeara so still finding my way around the Wedge.Because the matrix is covering only half of the air box most air passes by unheated, mainly to the two vents in front of the dashboard. Maybe the warm air flap in your car is disconnected from the operating wheel and stuck in the closed position.
This year I removed the whole heater assembly ( had to remove the dashboard to do that ) and replaced the heater matrix with a bigger one, so all the air is now passing through the matrix, and mounted a flow valve in the incoming water hose.
Lots of work but resulting in loads of very warm air, also through the two dashboard air vents wich is very nice on chilly evenings with the roof down.
I spent ages chasing a rubbish heater in my '86 350i; it was definately an 'air in the cooling system' issue. I'd suspect an air lock rather than the heater unit itself; although the heaters are pretty poor at the best of times unless they've been modified to push all of the air through the heater matrix all of the time - not an uncommon mod I believe.
Removing the dash is not for the faint hearted; it wouldn't be my first port of call. The Steve Heath book is pretty good in my opinion (although opinions differ); you have to bear in mind that TVR made it up as they went along so don't expect it to be like a Haynes manual for a Ford Focus! The heater box is a masterpiece of Heath Robinson engineering...
Removing the dash is not for the faint hearted; it wouldn't be my first port of call. The Steve Heath book is pretty good in my opinion (although opinions differ); you have to bear in mind that TVR made it up as they went along so don't expect it to be like a Haynes manual for a Ford Focus! The heater box is a masterpiece of Heath Robinson engineering...
[quote=The Hatter]I spent ages chasing a rubbish heater in my '86 350i; it was definately an 'air in the cooling system' issue. I'd suspect an air lock rather than the heater unit itself; although the heaters are pretty poor at the best of times unless they've been modified to push all of the air through the heater matrix all of the time - not an uncommon mod I believe.
Removing the dash is not for the faint hearted; it wouldn't be my first port of call. The Steve Heath book is pretty good in my opinion (although opinions differ); you have to bear in mind that TVR made it up as they went along so don't expect it to be like a Haynes manual for a Ford Focus! The heater box is a masterpiece of Heath Robinson engineering...
Thanks for the pictures (they defiantly show the the same one as mine) and the information on the SH book. I will put my control panel and trim back together and pump water both ways through the heater to make sure it is clear. I must admit to being surprised there is not a water flow control valve in there.
Many thanks. Len.
Removing the dash is not for the faint hearted; it wouldn't be my first port of call. The Steve Heath book is pretty good in my opinion (although opinions differ); you have to bear in mind that TVR made it up as they went along so don't expect it to be like a Haynes manual for a Ford Focus! The heater box is a masterpiece of Heath Robinson engineering...
Thanks for the pictures (they defiantly show the the same one as mine) and the information on the SH book. I will put my control panel and trim back together and pump water both ways through the heater to make sure it is clear. I must admit to being surprised there is not a water flow control valve in there.
Many thanks. Len.
Mine has what i thought was a heater control valve...You can just about see it on the bulkhead inline with the wiper arm post...I will try to get a better pic of it tomorrow....Although i don't get hot hot air...I think the whole unit needs revamping in most of our cars...All the flap gaskets...(oo missus) have probably perished and the hoses probably need sealing up properly...
One hose comes in from the washer bottle side...(Matrix) and then goes into the valve and the other comes out and goes to the water inlet under the plenum...As said i will get some better pics tomorrow.
One hose comes in from the washer bottle side...(Matrix) and then goes into the valve and the other comes out and goes to the water inlet under the plenum...As said i will get some better pics tomorrow.
mrzigazaga said:
Mine has what i thought was a heater control valve...You can just about see it on the bulkhead inline with the wiper arm post...I will try to get a better pic of it tomorrow....Although i don't get hot hot air...I think the whole unit needs revamping in most of our cars...All the flap gaskets...(oo missus) have probably perished and the hoses probably need sealing up properly...
One hose comes in from the washer bottle side...(Matrix) and then goes into the valve and the other comes out and goes to the water inlet under the plenum...As said i will get some better pics tomorrow.
It is all very nice and neat under your bonnet, a pleasure too look at I must say. Getting the air out of the water system seem to be a nightmare, the vent from the radiator goes down hill so gets an air lock in as do the other two air venting pipes. I have manages to get the controls working now without removing all the skin from my fingers and have air coming out that slightly above ambient but still have air in the system some were. Has any body tried rerouting the pipes to reduce the air locks? By the way I definitely do not have a water control vale in the system.One hose comes in from the washer bottle side...(Matrix) and then goes into the valve and the other comes out and goes to the water inlet under the plenum...As said i will get some better pics tomorrow.
The heater control valve is a common part and is usually attached in the input line in the engine bay close to the bonnet latch. See the one on the Gredge:
It is on the right by the latch. It has a cable attached for control. I gave mine a good run through with the hose then a good burping session to get all the air out. I usually run the car up on the ramps so the front is up then run it up.
All good with tons of heat and de-mist in the winter
It is on the right by the latch. It has a cable attached for control. I gave mine a good run through with the hose then a good burping session to get all the air out. I usually run the car up on the ramps so the front is up then run it up.
All good with tons of heat and de-mist in the winter
Thanks for the compliment...I have been told that jacking the front of the car up can help to get air up to the top...TVR plumbing is an entity unto itself....
Martin...The Hatter spent ages re-routing his and it works much more efficiently now...Not sure there is a definitive answer though.....Ziga
Martin...The Hatter spent ages re-routing his and it works much more efficiently now...Not sure there is a definitive answer though.....Ziga
Jack Valiant said:
The heater control valve is a common part and is usually attached in the input line in the engine bay close to the bonnet latch. See the one on the Gredge:
It is on the right by the latch. It has a cable attached for control. I gave mine a good run through with the hose then a good burping session to get all the air out. I usually run the car up on the ramps so the front is up then run it up.
All good with tons of heat and de-mist in the winter
Yes I see you have a different engine with a different water layout, I notice it is a 500 with a swirl pot for the water out of the engine to the rad, is that original or a modification? The water hoses to the heater start from a different point on my engine and I definitely do not have a valve. I have run water both ways through the heater, it has a good flow, I have now also bled the heater. It now seems to work not massively hot but I think it is acceptable for the moment. But and there is always a BUT how do I now get antifreeze back in the system with out draining all of the water and putting me back to were I started? Nice looking engine, it seems I have some work to do in that department.It is on the right by the latch. It has a cable attached for control. I gave mine a good run through with the hose then a good burping session to get all the air out. I usually run the car up on the ramps so the front is up then run it up.
All good with tons of heat and de-mist in the winter
My heater has always been pretty stonking in the 400SX but in the depths of winter with the top down I plug the passenger side cabin hose to get an extra bit of heat on my side.
The 1986 350i was reasonable too, so I guess by 1989 they had improved the airflow through the matrix a bit.
Another thing worth checking is that the main engine thermostat is working OK and not too low opening temperature. Obviously if the engine is only running at 80C the heater will be much cooler than if it's 90C-95C.
The 1986 350i was reasonable too, so I guess by 1989 they had improved the airflow through the matrix a bit.
Another thing worth checking is that the main engine thermostat is working OK and not too low opening temperature. Obviously if the engine is only running at 80C the heater will be much cooler than if it's 90C-95C.
adam quantrill said:
If you feel the water pipes at the back of the engine do they get hot - first the flow, then the return?
If not then the matrix might need flushing out with a hose. Take the pipes off the engine (let it cool first) then drain and catch any coolant, and flush one way, then the other. Hot water might be better if you can afford it!
If not then the matrix might need flushing out with a hose. Take the pipes off the engine (let it cool first) then drain and catch any coolant, and flush one way, then the other. Hot water might be better if you can afford it!
I will take the car for a run tomorrow and see how hot the engine and the heater gets. I have added a pic of my engine bay for your perusal.
When you start it from cold, get it idling, then check the hoses.
The heater hoses should start to get warm first, and the top rad hose should remain cold for a good couple of minutes, until the engine temperature gauge gets to the 80C line. The hose should then warm up pretty quickly all at once.
If it warms up weakly and early it means the thermostat is stuck open.
The heater hoses should start to get warm first, and the top rad hose should remain cold for a good couple of minutes, until the engine temperature gauge gets to the 80C line. The hose should then warm up pretty quickly all at once.
If it warms up weakly and early it means the thermostat is stuck open.
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