Camshaft Camshaft Camshaft

Camshaft Camshaft Camshaft

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TVRTRICEY

Original Poster:

141 posts

169 months

Sunday 6th September 2015
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Evening,

I think I may have tracked down my misfire issue. After playing with all the ignition system and scratching my head a lot, I had both Rocker covers off today and I have NO movement whatsoever from the Inlet On Cylinder number 1. The plug is also completely soaked in fuel...

So, after I've delved In Im sure I'l find a ruined Cam and followers. So will need replacing, Not sure whether to go for a standard EFI cam, which I assume would be the standard original fittment to this engine (early S1 V8, so plonked in straight from the Sd1), Or for something a bit fruiter. Suggestions would be nice! Don't want a Race spec thing or something that will cost me a pound a mile/smile.

The other big question is with the bonnet removed, is there enough space between the engine and the front of the engine bay to pull the cam out? Meaning I wouldn't have to remove the engine ( Please )

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tricey

KKson

3,395 posts

124 months

Sunday 6th September 2015
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Hi, not done the cam myself yet but was looking into a new one for my 350i. Without the need for any additional machining the Kent H218 works and should give a little more power. I've heard that with the bonnet removed and also the radiator then the camshaft can be replaced in-situ but it's supposed to be tight. I'm sure a number on the forum have swapped cams in-situ so hopefully they can confirm? Cheers.

TVRTRICEY

Original Poster:

141 posts

169 months

Sunday 6th September 2015
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Cheers for the reply, seen you've been tracing a misfire swell on your 390, might be worth a check on the movement if you haven't already! Wish I'd looked sooner! The thing with the upgrades really, is that a standard EFi cam with followers and all gaskets etc is looking like £150: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ETC6099K2 Good value really.

But the Kent kits are more like 600... Its up to my waller really! hahaha

KKson

3,395 posts

124 months

Sunday 6th September 2015
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TVRTRICEY said:
seen you've been tracing a misfire swell on your 390, might be worth a check on the movement if you haven't already!
Yep that's the next check tomorrow to ensure all valve gaps are right and everything is moving as it should.

350i is also in the bad books - there's an intermittent misfire that I'm struggling to track down - currently working through the usual list of suspects but slightly p'd off I can't drive it. Hey ho.

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Sunday 6th September 2015
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Keith, I know someone who has recently changed his dizzy and has since gone through 3 new ignition amps!...Just a thought...Ziga

adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Sunday 6th September 2015
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Yes you can replace in situ. Before I replaced my cam in the 350i I had a similar problem (exhaust this time) and disconnected that injector electrical plug. I ran for a thousand miles like this on lower power until ready to do the job.

Watch out on replacement cams for sharp steps on the lobe edges that will trash the new followers and then take the lobes away.

TVRTRICEY

Original Poster:

141 posts

169 months

Monday 7th September 2015
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Must say for the price of this Kit I'm tempted: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ETC6099K2 Not genuine Rover/Land rover, but has anyone had any experience of one of these?

Yeah the car has misfired since I bought it, Glad to finally track the bugger down! Compression test didn't show much of a drop funnily when I did it 3 or 4 months ago, only about 20 Psi. But speaking to Bradley with his white series 1 (ours our 1 after the other of the production line as far as we can tell) his PSI's were up in the 170's where mine peaked at 145, with lowest at 120 i think. so actually a fair difference I suppose. Haha!

Glad to hear it can come out in situ. means I can start getting on with it soon hopefully.


mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Monday 7th September 2015
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As I'm to believe it the cam does comes out in sitchu but you will have to undo the engine mounts and jack the engine up...It will become obvious why....Also I'm not sure that TVR used standard cams?...I would imagine that a standard cam would be very flat in terms of power and low down torque...More of a "Mud plugger" than high performance....I think i would of gone for something like this...With the edition of a little head work....
http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=736

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,552 posts

212 months

Monday 7th September 2015
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I'd go for a Fast road cam, as posted by mark. or simular, I would stick with the one or 2 specialists about (don't get one from e-bay)
I'd not use the rimmer kit, esp as it has a metal valley gasket and cork rocker gaskets, I'd get the new rubber rocker gaskets and the new style coated valley gasket, its going to cost a little more but worth it in the long run.
Get some good cam lube also. best to use the current oil (as long as it quite new and you cant see any silver in it) run the cam in for 20 mins then do a oil and filter change.

TVRTRICEY

Original Poster:

141 posts

169 months

Monday 7th September 2015
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Cheers guys, helps!

Ok something like this might be a good one then? http://www.v8tuner.com/product.php?id=637 I'm thinking it might give a little more or it may bring it back to the standard 190 if Vittesse had a different cam? I'd have thought it had if its 190hp over 150?

TVRTRICEY

Original Poster:

141 posts

169 months

Monday 7th September 2015
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Just seen that recommends the valve springs to be changed:

The Site lists them http://www.v8tuner.com/product.php?id=87

Number 7

4,101 posts

261 months

Monday 7th September 2015
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Thing is if you go for a upgraded cam, to get the best out of it you will need a way of adjusting the fuelling. There are ways, some bodges, some expensive. Also worth mentioning that replacing the cam, particularly with something other than like-for-like, should involve checking and adjusting if necessary (shiming the rocker pillars) the lifter pre-load. Not a job I personally would like to do.

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Monday 7th September 2015
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If you can afford it though it would make you some good power...Not too hairy thus retaining drivability....smile
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
Realsteel are really competitive and come highly recommended...Always remember that cheaper options can lead to expensive fixes...Do it right...Do it once....Cheers...Ziga

TVRTRICEY

Original Poster:

141 posts

169 months

Monday 7th September 2015
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Ok Nice, getting somewhere now. It would be easy to put a standard one in, but I believe I've got stage 3 heads on the car. Easiest way to check? Going by JE's guide there that Ziga just posted It looks like it should come with double springs... so I may be set up to take the bigger stuff ( mind I might go for that real steel one).

I want to get it right for sure, and I want to be happy knowing the engine is spot on, so I'll take my time.

TVRTRICEY

Original Poster:

141 posts

169 months

Tuesday 8th September 2015
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Think I'll be looking at a Viper Hurricane or Cyclone tad less lift on the Hurricane.. Both are the same price! Can anyone advise me to what might be suited better? Don't want to end up buying something for lugging off road defenders!

wombat172a

1,455 posts

182 months

Tuesday 8th September 2015
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TVRTRICEY said:
Think I'll be looking at a Viper Hurricane or Cyclone tad less lift on the Hurricane.. Both are the same price! Can anyone advise me to what might be suited better? Don't want to end up buying something for lugging off road defenders!
I've got a Viper Hurricane in mine, and I'm pretty happy with it so far. Although I've barely run it in since it's been fitted so I can't advise too much yet.

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Tuesday 8th September 2015
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TVRTRICEY said:
I believe I've got stage 3 heads on the car. Easiest way to check? Going by JE's guide there that Ziga just posted It looks like it should come with double springs... so I may be set up to take the bigger stuff ( mind I might go for that real steel one).

I want to get it right for sure, and I want to be happy knowing the engine is spot on, so I'll take my time.
Hi mate..Definitely do more research into what you have and what you need...You might not see bigger valves but should have dual springs along with maximum porting..I should of thought that the heads would of also been skimmed..

Is there any paperwork with the car that shows that its had any head work?....

TVRTRICEY

Original Poster:

141 posts

169 months

Tuesday 8th September 2015
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Hi all, no paperwork frown, heads look great and have clearly been off recently, I'm hoping to track down the previous owner this week and give him a call!
From what I can tell it was done around 11-13 years ago, but only done about 3k miles since


TVRleigh_BBWR

6,552 posts

212 months

Tuesday 8th September 2015
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If your buying from realsteel you may want to get adjustable push rods. you can set pre-load with shim, but it slightly adjusts the ratio and extra load on the rockers. also if the heads are skimmed you may need a lot of shims. which is not recommended.
only problem with the adjustable rods is You will need expand the holes in the head very slightly. quite easy with a drill but if you do it in situ your need to gather tap up the valley area, and have a vacuum running to make sure you get no ali chips in the engine.

rev-erend

21,404 posts

283 months

Wednesday 9th September 2015
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Or get some kenne bell adjustable roller rockers. Yella terra also sell them. Not cheap though.