Replacement rear stay/tie bar

Replacement rear stay/tie bar

Author
Discussion

The Beaver King

Original Poster:

6,095 posts

194 months

Thursday 8th October 2015
quotequote all
Gents,

Managed to snap the stay/tie bar (the adjustable bar that runs from the chassis to the bottom wishbone).

Annoyingly it has snapped at the thread, so no chance of welding it up.

Any ideas where to source a replacement? EBay isn't throwing up anything (assuming I'm call it the correct thing...).

Cheers

Number 7

4,101 posts

261 months

Friday 9th October 2015
quotequote all
I snapped one a few years ago., so changed to SH tie bars (more tyre clearance). I subsequently gave the good original bar to another Wedger, but may have the original broken bar somewhere if it might help (IIRC it snapped at the point where the threaded section starts).

adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Friday 9th October 2015
quotequote all
Same here if this is an A frame rear suspension except I have the SH ones and haven't fitted them yet. So if you get really stuck I can fit them and then the old ones would be freed up. If no-one else turns up with one let me know.

The Beaver King

Original Poster:

6,095 posts

194 months

Friday 9th October 2015
quotequote all
Cheers guys.

Can someone expand on the SH bar? If there is a conversion available, I'd be interested.

Thanks Adam, will keep you posted.

Number 7

4,101 posts

261 months

Friday 9th October 2015
quotequote all
It's a square section rod with rod-ends. Steve Heath (he of the Bible)used to make and sell various TVR parts, that being one. Hasn't been doing that for a few years now though, so very unlikely that you'd find any new ones anywhere.
Your best bet will be to hope that someone still has one of the originals after replacing with the SH versions. I'd hesitate to say check with breakers, as I suspect they may be pricey.

Edited by Number 7 on Friday 9th October 08:31

adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Friday 9th October 2015
quotequote all
It depends if he's still making them, Steve may read this forum from time to time so could possibly comment. But I think he was selling off his old stock so maybe he's stopped all this stuff. I know I got the last few drop links.

Number 7

4,101 posts

261 months

Friday 9th October 2015
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
I know I got the last few drop links.
Cornered the market eh? wink

hallsie

2,184 posts

219 months

Friday 9th October 2015
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Barrington made some up using rose joints and inserts purchased from Mcgill motorsport.

Stu

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,552 posts

212 months

Friday 9th October 2015
quotequote all
hallsie said:
Barrington made some up using rose joints and inserts purchased from Mcgill motorsport.

Stu
Mcgill rose joints are cheap-ish but they are good quality as they make them not import from china.

Anyone got a some pictures of the SH ones as should make it easier to copy using MCgill stuff.

hallsie

2,184 posts

219 months

Friday 9th October 2015
quotequote all
Have a look through Barringtons posts, he had the SH ones and made his own, posted pics of both

superwedge

1,286 posts

147 months

Friday 9th October 2015
quotequote all
I had the s/h ones on my one, but put the tvr ones back on with blue poly bush,i found that s/h ones was making the hole bigger on the chass ,as there so tight with no bush in at either end,what with the up and down ect;s,

Number 7

4,101 posts

261 months

Friday 9th October 2015
quotequote all
Found my thread with my busted tie bar picture.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

barrington

1,316 posts

230 months

Saturday 10th October 2015
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I did have the sh bars but did not like them and some wedgers have had problems with them so made my own

Hamish400

274 posts

256 months

Saturday 10th October 2015
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Beware of making the tie bar or rear wishbone connections too rigid.
I broke a tie bar after hitting a deep pothole. It was subsequently re-welded successfully.
I had hard bushes all round in the rear suspension at the time.
As the rear hub unit moves up and down there is an incompatibility in the geometry of the movement of the wishbone and that of the tie bar. Ie the rear end of the tie bar and the outer end of the lower wishbone move in different arcs.
This needs the bushes to have a little flexibility to compensate for the differing arcs to avoid over stressing something
I ended up with hard poly-bushes in the wishbones and rubber bushes in the ends of the tie bar.
This has worked well for many years.
You could make the tie bar bushes harder and use softer wishbone bushes but I feel the way I went gives better rear suspension control.

Rgds
Hamish

Hamish400

274 posts

256 months

Saturday 10th October 2015
quotequote all
Forgot to add:
When you fit the tie bar have the weight on the rear suspension. (Ie the hub sitting in the normal "mid" position of its arc of movement), then adjust the tie bar length to fit.
This results in the rubber bushes in the tie bar being uncompressed in the normal running position.

MethylatedSpirit

1,893 posts

135 months

Saturday 10th October 2015
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I got my tie bar from neil at ML performance.


It made an almighty bang when it snapped!

The Beaver King

Original Poster:

6,095 posts

194 months

Saturday 10th October 2015
quotequote all
Awesome guys, thanks for the info.

On holiday at the moment, but will have a look when I'm back.

Thanks again smile