To Powder Coat or to Paint?

[TroubledSoul]

Just interested in finding out about my options for the rear subframe/axle carrier on my E36 M3. I had been planning to strip it down and then use some Bilt Hamber Electrox primer followed by a few coats of Hammerite.

Since first deciding this I have seen a few that have been powder coated and have been considering this as it seems to provide a thick finish. But there's so much contradiction regarding how tough it actually is on the net that I'm at a loss as far as making a decision on which method to use goes.

Can anyone offer me any helpful advice? I want the finish to last, but the car will be a track/race car so it might have a hard life and see the odd "off"!

[InitialDave]

TroubledSoul said:

Just interested in finding out about my options for the rear subframe/axle carrier on my E36 M3. I had been planning to strip it down and then use some Bilt Hamber Electrox primer followed by a few coats of Hammerite.

Since first deciding this I have seen a few that have been powder coated and have been considering this as it seems to provide a thick finish. But there's so much contradiction regarding how tough it actually is on the net that I'm at a loss as far as making a decision on which method to use goes.

Can anyone offer me any helpful advice? I want the finish to last, but the car will be a track/race car so it might have a hard life and see the odd "off"!

Good powder coating is tough as hell. But my preference is for a decent paint (especially an epoxy type), as I can more easily touch it up and repaint sections if I need to make repairs.

I find Hammerite is "ok", but chips easily, and in general not as good as the older version. Were I looking to use Hammerite on something like that, I would (and indeed do) buy basic chassis paint for about a third the price and wop that on instead.

[battered]

I had a MTB frame powdered a few years ago, it's excellent and has since stood up to the abuse. Downside - it has to be removed, fully degreased and shotblasted before coating. This may be hard with a subframe. Also, you can't easily repair it, you end up overpainting. Pros - it's cheap, I got a bike frame blasted and coated for £30. That's cheaper than the paint, before you start with the prep.

If it were mine I'd buy some POR15, clean it up and get painting. When it gets shabby, slap a bit more on.

[TroubledSoul]

Yeah being able to repair it is definitely a major plus point. I can't say for sure I won't ever end up in a gravel trap etc. so even the toughest powder coat might have a hard time with that?

I may well get it blasted even if I do choose to paint it myself though. I've seen POR15 mentioned a lot but actually thought it was a stone chip type paint so hadn't followed it up.

[300bhp/ton]

POR15 is an American brand. Loads of places sell it, but it's easy to find on eBay. They do a number of different paints. I've been impressed with them myself.

Another option is getting it galvanised. Then paint it to protect the galv. Much better than power coat.

[TroubledSoul]

What the typical cost?

[SEE YA]

I have used powder coating on a few classic cars.
Did my wife's Beetle front beam cost was £45.
On my old classic did rolls bars, oil tank £55.

[skyrover]

Galvanised is my number one recommendation although there is the risk of warping on thin metal

After that I use a paint called epoxy mastic 121

http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-p...

Superior to POR 15 in my opinion

[steveo3002]

hammerite isnt worth a XXXX , look into epoxy , like jotun jotmastic or the rustbuster gear

[C7 JFW]

Powder coating is rock-solid when it's executed properly and professionally.

Hammerite requires a serious amount of prep work, heat and some kind of overcoat to even dream of becoming hard enough to withstand a proper beating.

POR 15 has a good reputation but most of the applications I've seen have been shed & paint brush style affairs which often look very amateur.

[KarlMac]

Quality of finish is entirely related to quality of pre-treatment. Try and find out how many/what stages of pre-treatment they go through.

We sell products with a 10 year guarantee on finish, bit have one of the most comprehensive pre-treatment processes in the uk.

[droopsnoot]

Another thread (perhaps in the classics section) suggested that powder coating suspension components wasn't a good idea. I had my subframe done and it looked great, but once the coating chips it's hard to repair. POR-15 is good, but the stuff I had was a very glossy finish that I wouldn't think was correct for suspension parts. I've been using epoxy mastic on my floor, and a specially mixed satin black on the suspension parts that might be visible. I bought some Chassis Black from Frosts, and that was high gloss finish as well, though I think they now also list a satin one.

[Kitchski]

Wouldn't powder coat a subframe alone. I'd get it shot blasted and then paint it with Rustbuster 2-pack Epoxy. POR15's good too, though it's UV sensitive, so if it's exposed to enough sunlight it'll go milky unless you overcoat it. Rustbuster's not quite as pretty (especially if you put it on over the winter) but it's tough as hell. I'd go Rustbuster for a subframe, and POR15 for more delicate brackets etc as it's thin, so can look nice and OE if you get it right.

Hammerite's great if you want to do it all again next year.

[TroubledSoul]

That Rustbuster stuff looks difficult to use. The subframe shouldn't see too much sunlight, being under the car!